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Thanks for the advice. I'll take my time and check everything before attempting power up.
I noticed that the yellow lead is routed through the case in such a way to keep it as far from the other wires as possible, so I'll be sure to keep it that way. I noticed that pin on the PCB with no other wires connected to it, but I thought it might have been for the speaker (don't know where that connects either, but that's not a concern at the moment).
I found a copy of the Sams Photofact, so I finally know what I'm looking at.
Another quick question:
I know the 2.35v 21EAP4 CRTs were very unreliable, but how does the 6.3v 21FDP4 compare? I assume they're probably more reliable, but how much more likely are they to work today?
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