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I am not a big fan of bringing up TV's that slowly with the HOT in circuit. I cant prove it, but I don't like the idea of med low voltages there, just in case the horz osc fails to work and then the HOT draws too much current (granted its also going to be lower voltage so it may not matter).
I generally pull the HOT out of the circuit and then do a slow start, while monitoring the the AC currrent and voltage, and the B+ current and voltage (would not work of course with string series filaments).
Before starting any of this I will check the B+ resistance to see if there is any shorts, esp in the filter caps. I use a reg old analog VOM and just hook up at the input of the filter cap, should see a somewhat low reading to start then a swing back to around 10k-15k as the cap charges. If it passes this then proceed with the slow monitored power up.
You could be extra careful and just disconnect the doubler (since its a line set I assume it has to use a doubler power supply) caps and check them as well as the filter cap. Might save the choke if the filter cap is shorted, but a careful watch of the B+ current and well as checking for (caps and choke) will do that as well. I have a variac that also has a isolation trans which take care of the hot chassis. Be ware, the only real safe way to make sure a chassis is not hot is to use a poloarized plug, with a polorized chassis plug, and then make sure the not side goes to the switch and the return from the switch is NOT to the chassis. I have seen some AA5 radios that just had ther switch connected to the to the chassis, so the chassis was hot either when the switch was on or of depending on how it was plugged in. The saftey was from the interlocks and plastic case allowing no metal to come into contact with the chassis.
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