So I played with the set some more tonight. I left it sit for a couple hours with just a 40w lamp in the tester, giving the tv about 30 volts. I then put the big lamps back in, and heard scanning! I plugged the set into line voltage, and amazingly there was sound! Not just static, but an actual broadcast! I guess there's still some analog transmission in this area.
The picture is very wrong. It does seem to change with the channel selector, but not much. The upper half is dimmer then the lower half. There's also a very noticeable high pitched sound. I don't know if that's normal for older sets, but I have good hearing and can pick up a modern set when it's left on with no picture.
I turned the set off for a moment while I got a light so I could read the controls, but when I powered the set back up there was no picture, no high pitched sound... just audio.
EDIT: The station is from across the border... CBC on channel 9. The audio stages work perfectly, the set has fantastic sound.
-J