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yep do them one at a time since you are new.
you have to decide if you are pig tailer or not.
I generally will remove the old cap, clean the term strip it attaches to, and put in a new one. Most times the connection point is shared, ofter with other caps. So in that instance it would make since to do mutiples. The key is to replace one end of the cap, leaving the old one in place with one lead. affix the new cap one lead at a time. If you just remove the old cap entierly you have a greater chance of goofing it.
Take pictures, Triple check ratings, mark polarity somewhere on the chassis BEFORE removing existing caps on e caps.
For real newbs I recommend pig tailing. I know its not as pretty but its a lot easier and I presume how it was done back in the day at repair shops.
The reason for this is you can do one at a time even on the shared term strips. You just clip one lead of the old cap, put a pig tail on the new cap, clean the old wire, and slip the new cap pig tail over the old wire. then you clip the other lead of the old cap, and slip the other side of the new cap (already with a pig taill in the lead) over the second wire. You need to make sure the wires are clean for the solder to stick.
This leaves all the orig soldered connections completely intact. I have seen a lot of repairs done this way (except they used a j hook rather than a pig tail) so I assume this was common when time was money.
works either way assuming the orig soldered joint was ok and the wire is cleaned so the pigtail works.
On parts that are soldered directly to a coil form I ALWAYS pig tail. those old cardboard forms are fragile, no need to put them thru the stress of heating up to remove and replace a part.
Lastly I like to check the old caps coming out and new caps going in using an old school cap tester. most of the time the old caps are ok for value but leaky. Using a cap tester has saved me when I miss read a cap value *10, I check the old cap to see if it matches the written value, the test a new cap, the settings of the cap tester should be close, if not then I double check everything. Its also nice to see the old cap testing as leaky (wax paper 95% of the time). And by testing if for some reason I got a bum new cap I would catch it before going in.
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