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Pretty simple - slide the chassis back, desolder the three pins (they kind of "snap" in to the board) and remove the old coil. Then just solder in the new one. You'll need a hex alignment tool (what I've always called a diddle stick) to adjust the linearity after replacing the coil. Specs on the coil are tight - .3 to 1.2 uH range, which isn't much at the realtively low frequency the coil is operated at.
What specifically was wrong with the old one?
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Brian
USN RET 22YRS (Avionics/Cal)
CET-Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88)
"Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79"
When fuses go to work, they quit!
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