[dobulee]

Got the chassis relatively clean, top side. And dove into 'the works'.

I had previously heat shrunk some tubing over the leads of the main transformer, but the cotton an rubber was still causing issues, flaking off at the 'mouth' of the transformer and doing it's best to short out. I decided to pull open the transformer, remove the original leads, and solder new leads directly on the windings. Where I couldn't get adequate access to the windings, I cut the original lead as short as possible, and heat shrunk the new connection. It turned out okay! I'll post pictures when I get it back together.

I also took out the first twist lock cap, and began the restuffing process. Boy does it take a lot of heat to wick up solder off the chassis connections! I'm used to working with 0402 SMT parts under a magnifying glass -- so this is quite a change.

When I finally got the cap out, I went the dremel route, and created tabs to pull back. However the 'Pull out the terminals and fiber disc and save it,' part didn't go so hot. Even with a lot of heat, the terminals and disc refused to let go from the innards. Eventually I broke the disk by pulling on it, so I'll have to make a new one out of phenolic. Any other tips for better success??

With the disc out, I finally was able to stab some pliers into the can, reheat, and pull the works out. Ive got the new capacitor assemblies ready to go, as soon as I make a new insulator disc. The process is a ton of work, I can understand why people would just put the new caps under the chassis.

Other than that, I just started replacing some caps and resistors -- almost all that I have checked, even the lower valued ones, are out of tolerance.

Once the power supply and other electrolytics are replaced, and new tubes are in, do you generally find that it is relatively safe to attempt to fire up the set? Or is it always advisable to replace all the paper caps first? I have read that people have success with the 'replace a few and test' method.

Any help appreciated as always,
Alex