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Originally Posted by anteater81
At any rate, I'm getting a decent picture now, although I'm STILL having problems with the vertical. It still jumps and becomes a horizontal white line after watching for a while. Takes longer than it did before, though.
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This sort of vertical problem was pretty common in the original Macintosh computers (the ones with the 9" black and white screens). The source of the problem was always cracked solder connections at the yoke connection, and/or a failing capacitor in the vertical circuit - IIRC it was a non-polar electrolytic. Since now it takes longer for the problem to appear, and it seems to be heat related, I'd suggest really resoldering the yoke connection. Suck out as much old solder as possile and resolder with plenty of heat and new solder. Remove the connector for the yoke, and clean the pins (if it has a connector). If while the set is showing the horizontal line, if you can jump real hard on the floor and have the picture come back, then it's most likely just a bad connection. Next time you get that line, first thing to do is turn the brightness down to prevent burning the tube. Then try banging on the set a little, jump on the floor, poke the board with a plastic pen, etc. See if it's an intermittent connection. If it pops back to normal, you've still got a bad connection somewhere - double check and resolder anything that looks suspect, and anything that isn't. Cold solder joints are a very common source of problems in solid state sets. Also look for cracked traces - if the board got a little warped, and there are damaged traces, similar symptoms can appear. I'd also suggest resoldering the pins at the bottom of the flyback transformer - those like to crack too. It's the high frequency signal and the heat that does it.
If the problem still persists, then start suspecting electrolytics - replace the ones in the vertical circuit. Check the obvious too - vertical hold control, dirty service switch, etc.
If the problem _still_ persists, the set could be going into HV shutdown - some sets had a circuit to kill the horizontal hold if the HV ran too high, to prevent users from being bombarded with X-radiation. Not seen one that went to a horizontal line, but it's possible - it normally goes to a bunch of angled horizontal stripes. Check the damper, and parts of the associated circuitry.
Replacing the filter caps couldn't hurt either - those can cause all sorts of wonky problems.
If the problem still persists, call in an exorcist. That television may be posessed.
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Originally Posted by anteater81
I had to do a bit of soldering and oiling, but now the record changer functions as it should and it sounds wonderful. I love the changer in this thing, BTW. It's a Magnavox Micromatic, made by Collaro, and it's the best record changer I've ever seen.
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Yeah - I love those micromatic Magnavox changers too. Good, reliable mechanism, good sound, consistent quality - I've rarely seen one that didn't work. The record changer I use in the shop is one of these, it came out of a trashed Magnavox solid state console. The tone arm was broken in half! I patched it back together, and it works great. It looks kinda naked - I've got it propped up on some scraps of wood - it doesn't have a case, since it came from a console. All I did was patch a power cord onto it, and hooked up the connections to a receiver. These changers were used in most (if not all) of the solid state consoles that Magnavox made. These console stereos are _really_ common, and I find them on the side of the road sometimes. If you find one, you can pull out the changer really easily, I'm sure you found this on yours, just pull the back off, disconnect it, flip the three little catches up, and just pull it up and out. Those were great consoles, but now you can't give them away, especially the later ones with the speakers facing the sides as opposed to the front.
BTW - Very nice find! I've never seen a solid state combo like that with a black and white set - that's pretty cool!
Good luck!
-Ian