So I was trying to look up if the crt could be dead. And have no glow, picture or anything. I never found my answer, but saw some stuff on LCD repair. And I remembered a 5 inch LCD I bought in gr. 7-8. Of coarse though it stopped working. Much too soon of coarse(maybe in a year or two). And it cost 200$. I tried my best to asses the problem at the time. Blown backlight dead something else expensive(and probably non existent for that lcd).
It was a bummer. I begged my parents for it. And they spent that 200$ for me. And then one day it just didn't work.....
(I didn't even own a ps1)
Well today I was still in the fixin mood. So with all my new knowledge since gr 8 I went to tackle it again. This time I did not assume it was broken. I assumed something simple had blown like a diode that blows when you hook up polarities backwards. Nope all diodes good though.(This is also all surface mount stuff...way waaaay smaller than tubes smaller than these letters you are reading) And then I saw it. Something not called R-37 or C-12 or T-1 (Resistor Cap and Transformer) THERE WAS AN F-1, A FUUUSE!!! I shorted it out with some metal and it came back to life.And I almost s@!T my pants.
So the moral of the story is. Don't throw stuff away you think is done for. You might just figure it out with all your new tricks and knowledge.... 5 years later....
AND I FIXED IT BOOYAH!
made me feel good
now back to 60's technology
I found a perfect (Wire wound I think) 560 ohm 2 watt resistor. This is pure luck. But I'm gonna put it in there tomorrow.
And also I need reassurance that the picture tube is not dead. Even with all the progress so far a dot will not even show up on the screen....?
New Day,
Also I thought for sure I had H.V.. But after putting a fluorescent bulb near the H.V. And trying to discharge it twice and hearing no spark as I did it. I'm guessing the HV is gone. I checked all the resistances ElectroKing had mentioned they check out fine. So the problem does not lie there.
I'm going to replace all the film caps near the HV area and also that one 560 ohm resistor AND then check that the 1ax2b is properly connected to its socket. AAAANNND does anyone think a dirty faulty button connection (The little cap that connects to the top of the tubes) could be causing such a problem.
And the results of that were:
The 560 ohm resistor IS burning up. Something drawing current from that resistor is either underbiased or just not working right. But from the schematic I see it is hooked up to the plate of the vert d/f tube and this tube is not biased in any way, its cathode is just grounded. Any ideas?
HA! HA! HA! more news: The vert deflection tube is the same one I saw glowing blue yesterday night. In the bottom right. If that helps any