Difficulty finding electrolytic bipolar capacitor
 

In my Toshiba 27A33 27" CRT TV, there is a bipolar electrolytic capacitor that tests bad with a value of 6.8uf/50V. This capacitor is in the vertical deflection circuit. There aren't many options available for replacements. Digikey and Mouser have one option as a replacement but it specifies that said capacitor is specifically for audio and is only rated for 1,000 hours at 85C, (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...CRokkOQwLBKlQA).

Here is a link to the service manual page that shows a schematic of the vertical deflection circuit in the Toshiba 27A33 and shows said capacitor as "C442", (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/22...page=23#manual)

Another site called "Arcade Parts & Repair" has a replacement but I'm not sure how good it would be, (https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com...c-radial-df-5/).

This Ebay seller has a new old stock replacement for sale by the Brand "Teapo", (https://www.ebay.com/itm/14358705324...Bk9SR9C105qtZQ).


Which option would you go with? Would it be safe to create my own electrolytic bipolar capacitor by combining two polar capacitors to get the value I need and would it work well?

Someone on the EEVblog forum suggested that I use a film capacitor such as this, (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...MR100K/5413238). Would this be a good idea?

Vertical deflection frequencies are definitely in the audio range, so specification of a cap for audio is probably OK. One of these units specifically says "high frequency" - that's goos. One specifes the ripple current at a certain audio frequency - that's good to know, if only the others gave similar specs.

My guess is that any of these will work. I guess I would go with the 105c 2000 hour one from Arcade Parts, assuming the spec is true.

Do you think that using a film capacitor like this would be a good idea? (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...MR100K/5413238). Would there be any potential issues using this film capacitor? The original bipolar electrolytic capacitor is rating at 50V. Is that an AC or DC voltage rating?

I think the film cap is what I'd use. They generally can take more abuse than a lytic anyways, and that's a low value enough.

you can get a polypropylene (PP) or metalized PP cap at that value easily.

Only drawback is the price. That will cost you about $2 minimum for one cap, while the lytic is more like 1 buck for a bipolar.

Also, the leads of PP caps tend to be shorter, so you might have to look for one that has longer leads or get a polyester cap with normal leads (the red kind) as that will be better than an electrolytic in that place anyways.