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Vacuum Tube Rejuvenatiion
A few months I took up vacuum tube regeneration following the procedures recommended by Lane S. Upton, published by the California Historical Radio Society in 1978. I had a few "bad" tubes which I would have eventually discarded, but I never got around to it. I'm sure most of you are familiar with this--the rejuvenation process differs for different types of filaments and involves a voltages ranging from 100% to 300% of normal and times ranging from a few seconds to several hours. I accidentally killed one low-value tube, but had some success with several others. Notably, I moved a 45 from "bad" to "useful" according to transconductance.
After screwing up a few times, I put together a rejuvenation kit to use with my Heathkit TT-1. First, I made separate templates for each common filament voltage to show switch positions for the recommended rejuvenation voltages. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4943f9ca_t.jpg https://flic.kr/p/2haGbJb I bought an automatic shut-off countdown timer because I'm forgetful. Also, for tubes (like this '01A) for which plate and grid voltage is not wanted, I made reusable filament pin extenders. https://live.staticflickr.com/7807/4...c979db5e_t.jpg https://flic.kr/p/2e1Lp6V My greatest difficulty is determining what type of filament each tube had. Upton gives a few examples and describes what the different filaments look like at rated voltage--"white" for pure tungsten, "orange-to-yellow" for thoriated, and "dull red" for oxide emitters. I can ignore the pure tungsten description, because I don't got any of those. But I'm never sure about the appearance of the thoriated and oxide filaments. Also many tubes, like all of my '99s, and so getter-coated that I can't see the filament. Here's a '26 which should be a "dull red" oxide emitter: https://live.staticflickr.com/4850/4...e7261ee2_t.jpg https://flic.kr/p/2dWa6J5 I would call that a "non-dull orange-red." So, putting together all the information I could find--published lists/examples and tube data sheets--I made a chart. PURE TUNGSTEN: '01, 200 THORIATED: '01A, '20, '99, 200A, 210 OXIDE: '26, '27, 41, 42, '71A, 75, 78, 80, 7A4 These I presume are oxide emitters: '24, 57, 58, 76, 77, 84, 89. Does this look accurate? I'd love to see a definitive list or filament reference for all pre-WWII globes and STs, but this is the best I cab do so far. Any other suggestions for being sure of filament type? One other question: When a data sheet says "coated filament," does that mean oxide-coated? Thanks, Henry, The Eternal Novice. |
I read regeneration and expected radio recievers using positive RF feedback for more signal gain, not tube rejuvenation.
Still interesting though. Some 20s tubes that I didn't want to pay to replace I've tried similar with, only it was full manual. I'd just increase heater a click or two till it showed gradual improvement, once it stopped I'd drop it to normal let it cool a moment and recheck. |
OOPS. Regeneration? I misspoke. Sorry to disappoint.
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Do you also monitor the heater voltage with a meter? I suspect that the “set to arrow” method would not yield consistent voltages if the current drawn by the tube heater varies from one tube to the next.
jr |
Hadn't thought of that. The tubes I was working with ranged from .06A to 1.5A. I'll have to check that out and make templates for each filament voltage/current combination. Thanks.
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:D Undead Zombie tubes for the Halloween season , I love it , great job Henry :thmbsp:
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