Silvertone 4107
 

A friend just dropped of this local craigslist find yesterday :) I gave him $30, he paid $15 and, after the transaction was done, the seller admitted he got it for only $5. That's capitalism at work.

It's a 19" portable B&W set from 1964 I believe with UHF. It's a low end set, but in very good condition. Not a single crack or chip in the cabinet.

The chassis is a 528.60823 and covered in Sams 697-4. Does anyone have a copy ?

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2890/1...f0c196b2_z.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3698/1...504baee2_z.jpg

The back came off easily to reveal a dusty, but otherwise clean chassis. It smells strongly of scented candles.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7420/1...eaf41450_z.jpg http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5538/1...e40dcf9f_z.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2806/1...e7700f9e_z.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3794/1...306c267f_z.jpg

It's a 0.45A series string set with several compactrons and others tubes I'm not familiar with. The CRT is a 114 degree 19AXP4.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3700/1...5dcaa6f3_z.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7320/1...c515666d_z.jpg http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3803/1...7f099c6d_z.jpg

The 19AXP4 filament glows nicely and there are no shorts, but the emissions are 0. Absolutely no signs of life.

A likely cause is an open cathode. Twice before I've encountered this and been able to reweld it with my Sencore CR-70.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2891/1...54b63a1c_z.jpg

I was getting ready to try rewelding the cathode by whacking the neck while holding the remove shorts button when it came back to life.
Maybe I scared it ;)

The needle swings erratically at times and I wouldn't be surprised it it dies again, but I figure it's good enough to try firing the set up.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3756/1...a3fcb1a0_z.jpg

Unfortunately, I got nothing. That red shaft at the bottom (circuit breaker?) feels loose and might be broken :scratch2:
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Yes it's a circuit breaker..... (red thing)

Very nice to see that set.... Looks just like the set our family had when I was a kid....
so does the volume switch pull on-off...? Curved bottom chassis like I remember.... Very nice, thanks for posting in such detail....

Do you get sound...? can you hear the horiz, and vert...?

And you got one of those High Power 20,000Volt tubes ! ! !


WOW google already had this page indexed by 3:30......

No, the volume switch only rotates - full counter-clockwise to turn it off.

The set isn't getting any power at all. Not even filament glow. So I figure it might be the circuit breaker. I think there is also a big filament dropping resistor that might be open. Or maybe it's as simple as a bad tube. I don't currently have a working compactron tube tester, but I can check filament continuity with an ohmmeter.

I'm holding off on diving in deep until I get a schematic.

Ok, well, yes you can test the tube filaments by hand, or trace out the voltages to see where you loose it..... Check out the switch too.... Circuit breakers always felt like they were broken, just test across it for voltage, or resistance if its unplugged....

Sorry, I had to say it, When I was in school and they were learnin us about battery internal resistance, you know haw many fried meters the place had the next day......

I think they should have skipped the internal resistance theory..... They could have just said the cat ran out of lives on this battery.... And then a single was called a cell not a battery..... it had internal resistance too..... still fried the dam meters....

good luck have fun !

Post pictures.... You have at least one fan of that set....

Here's the tube lineup. This is the "newest" set I've ever worked on and some of those tubes #s are very unfamiliar.

3DZ4 - UHF Osc
3HA5A - RF Amp
6CG8A - Mixer Soc
4CB6 - 1st IF
6GH8 - 2nd IF / Sync Sep
8JV8 - Sound IF / Video amp
4DT6 - Audio det
17CU5 - Audio out
15KY8 - Vert osc / output
8FQ7 - Horiz osc
22JG6 - Horiz output
17BS3 - Damper
1K3/1H3 - HV Rect

Got all except not sure about the 3DZ4.

Free if you need them.

Well, add up the tube numbers and get 107, so you may be right, there could be a resistor in there somewhere, and who knows it could be open..... I would take a look to see if you have voltages appearing in some areas in the set, and on the tube heater string....

OOPS Forgot the picture tube...... 113....... There could be a filament fuse in there....

Yup, Google sure is fast. Try starting a thread on here sometime and then go to the Currently Active page and see how fast a Google spider picks it up.

There'll be lots of fans of this set. I'm already one. Hope you plan on making some videos of it.

Seems a lot of these portables are still in really good condition. I think many were bedrooms sets and didn't see much use.

Was this a Warwick made set?

I did a lot of tube and cheater cord wiggling and finally got some current flowing :)
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/1...87cf6ec2_z.jpg

Better yet a raster appeared.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5546/1...b21fc0c8_z.jpg

Finally, after a lot of control fiddling a stable image and sound.
It still needs tweaking to width and linearity and a good control cleaning, but it's working.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/1...6eb3853b_z.jpg

Yes, there will be a video. I'm not sure who made it - how can I tell ?

528, is definitely a Warwick sourced set. It must be a little older, with the tube line up. IIRC, the later entry level sets used the AA5 tubes in the audio circuit.

That's good to know that 528 was for Warwick. They were 100% owned by Sears at the time, so as we say in the business world, all the money eventually ends up in the same pot.

yah, wish they'd index my crap that fast....

That wave and small picture is most likely a bad filter cap ! so check them before they blow ! ! !

There's evidence that Warwick used 456 and 529, at times.
Many of the lists showing the Sear's suppliers are not complete. They had a lot more suppliers, over the years, than any of the other mass retailers. :scratch2: