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-   -   Getting a GE 800C "Locomotive" Set (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=256679)

mpatoray 12-08-2012 09:44 PM

Getting a GE 800C "Locomotive" Set
 
I have been put in contact with somone who is looking to find a home for a GE 800C. The price is right FREE! All I have to do is make a trip to Akron to get it. The person with it has at least told me they have not and will not plug it in :thmbsp: I have been sent pictures and it looks in good condition with a missing knob.

I also took a trip to the local library and have been able to xerox the Riders for the set onto 11x17 paper and also have enlarged the schematic to fill 3 11x17 sheets. I have also Xeroxed the Sam's for the set with some of those pages also enlarged to 11x17, all good for me because even though i am 33 my eyes are not that great.

This looks like a fairly simple set all things considered, is there anything that I should be aware of?

Thanks,

Matt

Ohighway 12-09-2012 09:01 AM

I saw a picture of that over on AK and that's a damn cool looking set. I woulda' loved to have it for a display but........ too far away.

Better you're getting it as you're actually intending to get it up and running!

cwmoser 12-09-2012 12:14 PM

I restored one - a GE 805 model. Practically identical to the 800C
Not the easiest, not the hardest to restore.
Nice performing TV.

There is a person by name of Thomas Albrecht who is very knowledgable
on these TVs and has some good information about them.

They clean up nicely.
You can find that missing knob by posting in the classified.

Here is my restoration thread:
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/view...p?f=3&t=189602

Good luck with the restoration.

Carl

mpatoray 12-16-2012 10:02 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Well I picked up the set on saturday.

It had something living in it at one time there was a nets and crap all over the tubes, rust caused by the urine or whatever.

It has a replacement 10BP4A which tests reasonably good on my B&K tester.

Here are some picts.

mpatoray 12-16-2012 10:03 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here are a few more pictures. not sure what to think of the HV rectifier, I have never seen one look like that.

Matt

David Roper 12-16-2012 10:33 PM

Not sure of the purpose of the band, but it's supposed to be there. I've had a couple made like that.

Geoff Bourquin 12-16-2012 11:18 PM

I've had a few like that. I think I read someplace that the band is radiation shielding. I guess with enough HV those tubes can make a lot of X-rays

mpatoray 12-17-2012 12:56 AM

OK cool,

I will put up a video of ,me going to acquire it and first impressions.

Will fix some broken wire and maybe try a slow power up with variac and dim bulb to see.

Matt

Bill Cahill 12-17-2012 02:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mpatoray (Post 3056200)
I have been put in contact with somone who is looking to find a home for a GE 800C. The price is right FREE! All I have to do is make a trip to Akron to get it. The person with it has at least told me they have not and will not plug it in :thmbsp: I have been sent pictures and it looks in good condition with a missing knob.

I also took a trip to the local library and have been able to xerox the Riders for the set onto 11x17 paper and also have enlarged the schematic to fill 3 11x17 sheets. I have also Xeroxed the Sam's for the set with some of those pages also enlarged to 11x17, all good for me because even though i am 33 my eyes are not that great.

This looks like a fairly simple set all things considered, is there anything that I should be aware of?

Thanks,

Matt

Yes. Selenium rectifiers, hot chassis, paper electrolytics, bad paper caps., and, the likeliness of bad mica caps.
Also, the fact that all this fun is plasterred onto two fibre boards with wiring on both sides, and, several electrolytics mounted on the side of the chassis, and, another paper one on top.
Tuners aren't great, either. Set does seem to perform will, but, then, there's the two filament resistors in the hv cage................
Bill Cahill

earlyfilm 12-17-2012 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mpatoray (Post 3056200)
This looks like a fairly simple set all things considered, is there anything that I should be aware of?

Matt,

Back in the mid-to-late 1950s, these sets were known to be very flaky in deep fringe areas and went through IF and tuner tubes very rapidly. Today, you will be using a local signal source so this should no longer be a problem.

Back then, in the small 4 man shop where I was apprenticed, all of these narrow chassis GE's were dumped on me, since as the youngest by far, I had the smallest hands and could change out the failed capacitors on and under the vertical component boards without removing the boards.

My suggestion is to carefully draw the connections to each of these boards before removing them for recapping. Before starting the recapping take careful pictures of both sides of each board, and compare that to the finished recapping, because you don't want to try to find a wiring error that requires a second removal of these boards.

If your set was kept in service for 6 or 7 years, expect to find replacment capacitors in the sync and sweep circuits.

James

luffliffloaf 12-17-2012 12:03 PM

HI!

That person who rescued the GE loco and gave it to Matt is me!

I'm glad I kept it out of a landfill and that it's getting restored!

And Matt was nice enough to give me an old Ibanez guitar pedal too, which works great by the way!

I'll watch this thread and see how it comes along.

Loomis

kvflyer 12-17-2012 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Cahill (Post 3056822)
...


Tuners aren't great, either. Set does seem to perform will, but,

................
Bill Cahill

Wow Bill, glad there was one good thing about the sets ;)

mpatoray 12-17-2012 03:11 PM

Here is the Video, yeah I know the title is messed up...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaM1RrvY04o

DavidGoncalv 12-17-2012 03:59 PM

I have a set with similar chassis, and would say that while the recapping can be challenging, I did not have to remove boards to do so. The worst parts were the electrolytics and one power resistor tucked by the tuner.

I solved the problem for all but one of the electrolytics by leaving them mostly connected and using a pipe cutter and heat gun to gut and restuff in place. The central chassis mounted cap was a pain, and took patience to remove.

They likely used these shitty wirewound resistors that get all corroded, and it happens to be odd values that are hard to find. I recall that 2-3 are used in the filament circuits. They are in white ceramic cylinders and probably have characteristic green crud on the leads. I'd personally replace them on sight.

+1 on how cruddy it is that those resistors are in the HV/sweep cage.

mpatoray 12-17-2012 09:35 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I removed the 10BP4A and stored it away for safekeeping while I work on the set. I was able to get a better look at the chassis and what all should be involved.

Took some more pictures as well.

Im guessing in that last pict are the infamous "Glowbar" resistors. I was thinking of replacing them with 82 Ohm 15 watt wirewounds.

Matt


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