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reworked my old TV-VCR set to CRT DTV set.
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This is my converted CRT analog TV which used to have a VCR in it. The VCR died, and I removed it and installed a Digitalstream converter box in place. This box has user buttons on top. and I had this box sticking out to allow access to them. But I decided that it looked stupid that way, so I installed 3 new buttons on the front, and remounted the box more flush with the front of the set. |
That's a great idea. I have a Symphonic set with built-in VCR that was given to me because "it doesn't work" and I haven't even looked at it yet but that would be a great conversion.
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Lookin' good...sure beats tossing the tv/vcr unit once the vcr dies. Which it always seems to do.
Similar to what I've done with a small JVC crt monitor and a hacked-apart DTV converter....one ac plug, one antenna connection, and it's almost a true portable! |
Cool idea.
I would imagne that some of the smaller DTV boxes could be made to fit in the cassette slot of these combo machines... |
I may have to try that with the next one of these I find with a dead VCR. What did you do to fake the TV chassis into staying on with the VCR removed?
Another thing I've thought of is taking the guts out of a DTV converter and mounting them into a more common 12" AC/DC B&W set. That way, I'd have a convenient portable for when the power goes out. |
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For the audio amplifer, I used a computer speaker amplifier, powered off the TV power supply. Found a 12V supply line there. The converter box provides variable level audio, so the converter box's remote does volume. |
On the south side of Milwaukee, we refered to that as a "Polish" job.
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Looks well polished to me! Neat idea.
Some of the more common Funai-Symphonic-Philips-Sylvania TV-VCRs might not cooperate as easily though, since their system control is in the syscon microprocessor that's on the VCR board. Would have to make the system sense that the deleted VCR mechanism is in the stop-eject (no tape inside) mode. |
On the funai, if the IR diodes can be tricked into thinking there is no tape present, it may give an all clear. They go into a conductive state from the IR transmitter diode on the board and prism arrangement when there is no tape. I would try shorting the two receiver diodes and that may trick it. I found a 13 inch last week in the street with it's remote and a sign "works". I took it home and... it works! Tape and all.
The one that could be a bear (impossible) to modify may be the DVD version. On the sets that give me too much trouble I have the phone # of a scrapper. He gives them their "last ride". |
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One other thing to do when using new push buttons on the converter boz, or elsewhere in electronics, is to be sure that the metal case of those buttons are grounded. This to divert static sparks to ground and not thru the microprocessors. |
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