Motorola 19K1 restoration
 

Last fall I posted a whole bunch of pictures from a local antique shop packed with vintage TVs and radios. I stumbled across TheNixer's classified ad for a bakelite Admiral 24A12 about the same time and hooked them up. He got the itch for another set, looked through my pictures, and this time picked up a 1950 Motorola 19K1 AKA 'The Van Dyke'.

Here's an original ad on tvhistory.tv

Since it's only a couple miles from me and I've never had the chance to work on a set like this before, I volunteered my services to get it running again.
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The cabinet is in rough shape like every set at that shop. Someone there really liked to stack heavy crap on the set and gouge into them. The doors and sides are in much better shape. The door pulls are missing though. Does anyone out there have the same set or know what pulls are appropriate ? I'm only going to be working on the chassis. I hope someone else can do a nice job on that cabinet.
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The insides are in much better condition. I was a little concerned about the 19AP4 when I saw the damaged base, but it tests very strong. It's a factory rebuilt CRT with an 'S' stamped on the neck. I've never work with such a large CRT so am being extra careful. I plan on using a little 5AXP4 during the restoration.

Only a fragment of the back remains.
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Dual speakers and integral antenna
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Only two screws were left holding the chassis in :eek: That's why I always remove chassis and picture tubes for transportation if possible.
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I kinda liked that Moto set when I saw it in those tv shop pictures-the knobs are pretty neat, plus you get to work on that cool giant crt. Just avoid temptation and DO NOT give that metal crt a big hug while it is powered on, okay?

I've had it hope for a couple days now. Here are some more details.

First off I was concerned about the damaged CRT base, but it turns out the tube is just fine. That's really good, I've heard these are few and far between.

The widowmaker. I'm not sure what they mean by "insulating coating". Seems like just glass to me :scratch2:
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The base reads 'factory rebuilt'. Anyone know what the "S" on the neck means ?
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It's good :banana:
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A little size comparison. 5AXP4, 19AP4 and 10BP4. I've never work with such a large CRT before!
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Here's the chassis. It appears to be all original.
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The tuner is quite a piece of work
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There's a crazy mix of tube brands and about 40% are weak or bad. I bet this set saw a lot of use.
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I can't wait to see those orange knobs light up again :)
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Roger that - don't hug the jug :yikes: http://www.jawaspot.com/smilies/shocking.gif http://www.jawaspot.com/smilies/spooky/tombstone.gif

Can't really see how it works . . . wafers?

Phil

Yes, it appears so. What I'm not sure about is the hole in the chassis for each channel. There's an arm with a hole in it sticking out the the selector shaft. The hole lines up over the selected channel. Perhaps it's just an aid for aligning the coil ?

I was finally able to get back to my e-mail this weekend and found two e-mails from Tom. Wow is he a nice guy! He really helped me out with the details of this set. Here are the photos he provided. I can't tell if it's spelled VanDyke or VanDyck. Either way, it's one great looking set.

Bob, thank you for all the photos and attention you've already given the set. It's all much appreciated, thank you.

what is the game plan on that CRT socket? leave and use as is, replace it, or try to build it up somehow? I assume no hurry on what to do until the set is closer to working.

Some manufacturers coated that glass portion of the CRT with some sort of insulating paint, beyond me as to why. I didn't think glass could be inproved upon as an insulator. The pic is of a 16GP4 that was coated.

Initially, I was going to remove the remains of the existing socket and replace it. Possibly with a donor from a dud tube.

Now that I've inspected it closer, I think I'll try to build it up with something like 2-part epoxy. All 5 pins and the center key are in good shape. So is the entire circumference of the end of the base.

Reading all the warnings on that CRT are making me a little nervous of messing around with it.

I fired up a more accurate tester and went through all the tubes. I was amazed to find 13/22 tubes are bad. Either failing on transconductance, gas or grid leak! Even both the 6AL5s are really dead - almost no emission. Typically, I find one or two bad and a few weak tubes.

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All the crucial tubes are good though - some relatively new. Like the 6CD6 HOT, both paralleled 5U4s, 6W4 damper and 1B3 HV rectifier. I wonder if that was enough to produce some sort of image or sound and the owner kept running it into the ground ?

In a few radios, I have found tubes that looked pretty dead on a tester but still performed surprisingly well. You can think of various scenarios where someone might play a TV to death as long it made sound. Older person with poor vision, can't see the picture anyway. Uncle Joe listens to ballgames while working in the shop. Family gets new TV, but lets the kids have this in the basement to watch cartoons . . . .

Phil

Excellent! Tom is responsible for pointing me to this forum a while back :)


"...2 control knobs on front panel are all that are needed for normal operation..."

Ha! Pull off those two 'simple' controls and you'll find all the other adjustments lurking ;)
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Cool that the tuner has UHF capabilities. I counted 15 positions when I rotated it. If we're really lucky, it has the right parts to pick up some of the few remaining analog UHF broadcasts in our area.
I really hope I won't have any need to go poking around in there.
(click for hi-res version)
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That's a nice looking set. I have faith in your refinishing skills, I bet it turns out great!

Interesting. That portion on this CRT seems to have maybe a hint of old coating. Otherwise, just glass. Maybe they removed it during the rebuild process ?