Maggie Home Entertainment Center
 

I am about to aquire this B/W unit from its original owner. It was made in 1961. When I saw it yesterday, all the tubes and the turntable had been removed. It's all there, otherwise. I couldn't find the little model sticker, but I didnt have much time to look around for it.

Im going back for the cabinet soon. I have all the tubes that they pulled, and the turntable that they pulled, too. They didnt know what they were going to do with the thing so they started by parting it out.

The little amp chassis uses a pair of 6BQ5's. One is original, and the other one has been replaced in the early 1980's with a GE.

I really dont have room for this set, but I cant stand to see things go to the landfill.

When I get all the tubes and turntable back in it, I will bring it up slowly on my Variac and see what happens! I'll update with pictures as soon as I can.

Bruce

sounds like the chassis I have, is it a C-36 if so I have a bit of exp on that one.

the cap doublers were bad on mine, so monitor the B+ when you bring it up (the diodes are plug in with spade connectors). You can make a easy mod to the stereo tuner to drive the audio off the audio out from your vcr/dvd/converter to have true TV stereo sound.

Good luck with it, I like mine and watch it every day.

does the chassis look like this?

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=239083

hmm oh well I cant see the pics and it wont let me repost them.

Thanks Dave. I thought I was going blind there for a minute.

The set has had only 2 tubes replaced. The 6BQ5, and the damper tube twice. All others are Magnavox branded.

The old tubes were found inside the back of the set behind the TV chassis under the kine. There is an E-V replacement stylus package in there too. I guess Mr. King, the original owner, kept all the old parts! I like the history of the set.

I have one like that as well, uses a SE 6bq5 amp. the tuner did NOT have a mpx, but I got one off Ebay, just have not yet gotten it installed.

the only real issue I have is on the interlacing, I have 3 C-36 chassis TV's

a tubed console, an astrosonic (SS) console and a cabinet model. Of those two have interlace issues, one you can adj out with the vert hold, the other can not, it jumps in and out constantly. I was going to try building a new low pass integrater off the sync tube to the vert osc, as I have checked/replace just about everything else.

One thing to watch out for is if you get a vert weave, check the screws that mount the deflection board. the heater grounds are just compressions joints from the pcb to the metal chassis. If ANY resistance (loose screws, corrrosion) is developed there, you will a slow weave, think its the 60hrz heater filament beating against the 59.9997 (what ever) vert osc frequency.

I cured that once and for all by soldering a buss wire from the pcb ground to the chassis, not relying on the compression to ground the board.

lets try this

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=246420

before bringing it up you should at least replace the coupling caps in the amp, they no doubt are paper and are leaky, which will quicklty ruin those
6BQ5 tubes in short order. at least put a meter on the grids and watch for +vdc.

My set chassis looks alot like yours. Thanks for the pics.

I contacted the current set owner. I will have the entire set on Friday. I went over to the house and got the cardboard back from the dumpster that they rented this afternoon. Glad I got it. All the functions are listed on the back!!

My cabinet is dark, and has straight legs. It might be a 23" screen, too.

I recently got a B&K CRT tester. This should be a good first B/W try for it. It tested my color roundie CRT's and they test good.

And to think that all these years, this TV was sitting in the living room of the home directly across the street from my home!!!

I have a B&K 440, but like my sencore CR-70 better (for some reason my b&k always reads lower than the sencore). In any case dont rely on the results (and go off rejuvenating if weak). I have found that B&W crts that test weak to dead often are fine, esp after letting them play for a while).

I rejuved a tube once got better emissions but cutoff went bad.

Also dont be concerned if the fly looks bad, one of my sets has one with an absolutely hidious looking fly and its fine.

oh and pull the HOT if your going to variac it. Not good to run at low voltage.

along those lines I would put a meter in the cathode circuit to maker sure the current is ok (around 120ma IIRC). What you dont want to do is take a good fly and make it bad messing about with a start up with leaking coupling caps in the osc circuits.

I generally dont even bother with the whole variac deal if there are papers in there. The variac idea of reforming the filters may or may not work, but it is tough on tubes and flys.

one last thing, I would power up in a dark room and look for red plates, that happened to me once, you can see it happen much faster in the dark. Of course smoke is harder to see in the dark so I guess its a trade off.

Thanks Dave. I'll take all this with me when I start on it. Cleaning 50 years of crud out will be a good start. I'll probably clean and lube that Micromatic turntable first thing, since I have several Maggie stereos sitting around that I can play with here.

OK. It's here on my front porch. Im going to have to wrap it up for right now, as there is no place to put it in my house. No kidding!

It's a model 2MV386N with a walnut cabinet. Run #1.

The sticker on the TV chassis is V36-02-00.

The AM-FM tuner is mono, I'm sure. There's no MPX setting on the controls.

The set is sitting out there airing out for awhile. It smells pretty musty from sitting all those years in that empty house. The wind will help, I hope.

Pictures yet to come. It's too cold to be outside very long...

if you want to do a quick monitorf of the startup, and have a DMM with a AC millamp reading, you can pull the diode doubler spade out (where the two diode connect together) and put the AC current reading between that junction. Then pull the HOT, and slowly variac the TV. IIRC the max current will be around AC 250-300ma more than that and you prob have a leaking doubler or filter cap.

If It passes that test you could try it with the HOT installed and see if you get a raster. My guess is the doublers will be leaky, the filter prob ok, dont know why but that was the case on all three of mine. Perhaps the High value lower voltage are just prone to going bad. Also maybe the doublers just see a lot more ripple coming off those diodes. the filter cap comes after the choke IIRC.