HV Anode Wire Replacement
 

Hello everyone,

I'm working on a 49 Crosley 9-403M and need to replace the High voltage anode wire. The original decided to start arching on one of the Flyback terminals. Can someone recommend a replacement wire and a source to purchase the wire?


Thanks,

Chris

I know some people who use ignition wire from automotive stores. Good for 30+ KV.

...

Surplus Sales of Nebraska sells an anode lead with connector for $3.

http://www.surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/HVWire-2.html

Phil

A bit longer:

http://www.talonix.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=7521



Cheers,

All due respect, I don't recommend the automotive spark plug wire. It's much fatter, and isn't actually wire. It's conductive carbon fibers.

I'd just get any old TV or computer monitor from the alley, and take the anode lead (except Sony TVs & monitors from the early 1990s and older, which won't work).

Charles

Thanks Eveyone, Thats just what I was looking for.

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I was searching for information about HOW to effectively replace the 2nd anode lead and cap on my '58 Silvertone.

Previously, for some weird reason, someone had cut the cup portion off of the lead,, so now I'm left with just the lead coming from the HV cage.

https://iili.io/JQ8J7j.jpg


I imagine they cut it off for safety, as maybe there was arcing at the CRT. They probably wanted to prevent someone from starting a fire.

Was wondering how this splicing of the new to old should be done. I'm wondering if I should solder the old to the new and apply RTV Silicone to the spliced portion or is there a better way?

Best is to get a long enough new one. Is the 20-inch one available on line too short?

Well, I may be missing something, but I don't see where this 2nd anode lead connects, because it connects somewhere internally to the HV rectifier socket.

First photo is the rear of the socket and 2nd pic is the front. It just snakes in there, internally. That's why I was wondering about splicing.

https://iili.io/JQgPGS.jpg

https://iili.io/JQgi67.jpg

I ordered a new cap and 18" lead, so I should have more than enough length, but I'm not sure if I should somehow splice it or connect it internally in the socket.

I think if you remove the rectifier tube, you should be able to see where it connects. After all, it had to be connected somehow when the set was manufactured.

Yeah, it looks like it loops from the direction of the CRT, into the socket rear, through to the socket front, then back into the front toward the rear and connects to a pin in the rear of the socket. You couldn't readily tell bc the wire is so dirty, and I was looking at it with a mirror behind the chassis, but that's where it's soldered, ostensibly for strain relief.

Should be good to go.