Just trashpicked a Sony KV-32S26, BPC or not?
 

Well, I never thought that I would fond a TV that I actually liked....but....I just found a kinda beat (missing front logo, crack in front trim,beat sides), Sony KV-32S26, a 32" PIP trinitron. Dragged it home in a little red wagon (still don;t drive, rectifying that in a couple weeks), and tested it out:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...d/IMG_0592.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...d/IMG_0591.jpg

And then I got this bad boy up a couple 2 step sets of stairs and this.....keep in mind it's freakin heavy....
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...d/IMG_0593.jpg

Yes, it kinda fell over on me...more than once.

So, it survived the damage. Connected it to the iMac, and the white balance is a bit off....to the bluish side and it's a bit dim for my tastes. Anyone know where I could source a remote for this?

It has s-video inputs. One of the speakers seems to be dead, but I only feed video to my sets, so sound is not a problem.

So, is this BPC, Score, or what?

hehe:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...d/IMG_0597.jpg

I'll jump. I was still fixing TV's back then and those Sonys were still that. A little lighter in materials but still sets. Tube and chassis OEM.

Resolder everything in the horizontal output/drive area before it blows up. That was the main problem those sets gave. Also, resolder the vertical output IC. Those can become loose and cause vertical deflection problems. You might try cranking up the G2 control just a hair to improve the brightness. But first, get a remote and make sure that everything in the menu is set properly. A "one for all" or "philips" remote will probably bring up the menu.

How do I find those?

I have never been inside of a TV for more than a look-see....and remarking "ooooh....tranaistors...."

When you pull off the back, you'll notice a transformer with a red wire coming out that goes to the top of the CRT. You should resolder everything on that side of the board. Electronics (rosin core) solder and an cheap pencil soldering iron should do the job (all available at radio shack, maybe). Heat each solder joint with the soldering iron and then apply solder to the connection while still holding the iron in place. Once the solder has evenly flowed over the connection, remove both the iron and solder. Do not disturb the connection for a few seconds, as it needs to cool. The connection should be bright and shiny. If it's dull, you have a cold solder joint that will give trouble later. Also, use only enough solder to get the job done and don't bridge two connections with excess solder. If you've never soldered before, find some junk PC boards (such as from a stereo or PC monitor) and practice on those.

While you are at radio shack, pick up some desoldering braid. You'll need this to remove solder in the event that you need to extract a part or create a solder bridge.

Also, keep the tip of your soldering iron clean by running it across a wet sponge while the iron is hot.

IIRC, the G2 control is either on the CRT board or the flyback transformer. Use caution in these areas, as theres voltage there that will lknock you on your butt!

Thanks!

I am fairly proficient in soldering, and have all that stuff...other than the braid. I just use a solder sucker.

A friend has a remote for me, so I will see about adjusting brightness from there.

Hey David, interesting to see the actual photograph and then the raster of the set in operation. :thmbsp:

I definitely agree that you should at least reflow the solder around the HOT and flyback area. I don't know why the greyscale would be off, unless it is due to a software issue(service menu or customer 'temp' control) though since these Trinnys have AKB (auto kinescope balance) which blanks the video out when a drive difference is detected at startup or as the crt ages...blink, blink blink goes the standby LED...

Those are heavy SOBs....we have a kv-35S40 from 1999 still going strong, though I refocused it last year since it sees a ton of use. Haven't reflowed anything since it hasn't moved an inch since taken out of the box.

If it's blue and a bit dim (and not a 1980s XBR) then the picture tube is going, they didn't have the greatest life. Once you have the remote you can go into the service menu (in Standby with Power off, press DISPLAY -> Channel 5 -> Sound Volume + -> POWER) and adjust all aspects of the picture from black white tracking, color temperature, CRT aging color pedestal reference, colorimetry (Red-Blue gain), decoder DC offset, convergence, comb filter tuning, etc. Focus is still on the flyback I believe, Screen bias may be accessible by remote..

the first couple times I turned this on when I got it upstairs, the standby led was blinkin....

I will have a remote hopefully by this weekend, so I will go into the menus and see what I can adjust. I'll reflow the connections when I give my back a couple days rest from movin it.

And it's not terribly blue, it's just a TINY bit off from the white balance of my iMac's display I was comparing it to. I prolly would not have noticed it had it not been driven by the iMac.

By the way, any Sony TV remote will control any Sony TV. This was always a trademark of theirs. Even some VCR remotes work the sets; albeit with limited functions. Good luck.

This difference may just be between the Mac's likely more-correct white balance/color temperature (6500 degrees K) and the Sony's default "TV white" (9300 degrees K). The Sony can probably be improved via adjustments as above.

OK.....BUMP.

Where's the HOT and vertical output IC? I am having issues with the vertical picture dissappearing upwards (not rolling) but totally dissappearing....I have the back off of the TV now...

IIRC, the vertical output IC is mounted on a heatsink somewhere around the center of the PC board.

The horizontal output transistor will be mounted on a heatsink located to the right of the flyback transformer. That's the transformer with the big red wire coming out of it that goes to the top of the picture tube.

You'll need to resolder the vertical IC and it would be a wise move to resolder the horizontal output transistor and everything around it. Otherwise, you'll probably end up losing the horizontal output transistor, the two chopper transistors in the power supply, and a fusible resistor.

Make sure you also reflow the pins on the Horiz drive transformer.

The more modern Sony sets were,for the most part,set to the blue region.Using different color analyzers back in the early to late 90's, it was nothing to see them in the high 8000 to almost 10,000. Adjusting them to D65 was not alway the preferred setting either because they had a tendency to push red. I would compromise and go to 7500k which looked good.This is the S series and were just a basic performer and like it's been mentioned, subject to power faults and failures.These were manufactured in TJ.