1950 RCA 6T65 16" console
 

I picked this set up today. It uses the 16GP4 metal tube, but I just tested it, and it hasn't leaked it's vacuum yet, at first it was barely moving the needle at all though, but after I put it up to 8v it started to come back, so I think it will be ok. This set has most of the often missing stuff, back, hv cage top, knobs, except for the tuner knob which I don't think is original. It uses a big 10" speaker, too.

Kewl score Adam !

Was that the TV that was on craigs list in another thread where the seller suggested turning it into a aquarium ?
Either way im glad to hear a nice old set has a good home .

That CRT sounds like a job for my beltron. It's worked miracles on two dead CRTs now and they're still going strong. The machine is in no way harsh to the gun like most rejuvenators.

Perhaps some weekend I can drop by with it and we can give it a shot.

First, you need to reverse the direction of your focus magnet assembly. It's upside down. The focus adjustment belongs on othe side. Picture tube is also in the wrong direction. The 5 main pins belong on the other side, and slightly downward. There are other issues as well. If you'd like help on this set I'm willing to lend a helping hand....I've had alot of experience with this series of sets...KCS47.
Bill Cahill

Here's how the back of it should look. Bill Cahill

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...tv6T74rear.jpg

Might be worth a try, I find if the crt is weak beyond a certain point, even if a set is otherwise working, I never watch it, I have a '54 Westinghouse with the 21YP4 like that. Have you ever tried that beltron on any electrostatic b/w tubes, I've wondered if it was possible to rejuvinate those?

:thmbsp:

It's the same set.

Thanks, I'll turn it around when I have the chassis out.

I may try that next :D :yes:

horizontal problems
 

I finished recapping the set, and tried it out, only to have first a dim raster with the horiz frequency way off, then an intermittent bright white raster with greatly reduced horiz width. The sound worked on a few channels. Then I heard some not-too-good sounding noise comming from the chassis, and I looked around back and saw it was comming from the damper tube which was glowing bright red. I unplugged the set, and as I didn't want to run it anymore under those conditions, I put the chassis back on the bench and poked around with the ohm meter. I found 3 problems.

1. The horiz hold pot itself, when I turn it (or sometimes even when I don't) with the ohm meter on it, it jumps erratically, and when I tap it with my finger, it reads completely open. I tried spraying some cleaner in there and turning the control a bit, and no difference, it needs to be replaced.

2. The flyback: it's supposed to read 250 ohms across it, it reads 600 ohms.

3. The HV filter capacitor 250pf 20kv, it's not even there:no:, I don't know how I didn't notice this one before.

At least the 16GP4 is good.

update: I got my new horiz hold pot, flyback, and doorknob cap, I'm about to start back in on this one, I'll let you all know how it goes after I get all that stuff installed...

I pulled the old flyback out, it turns out it wasn't bad, it just wasn't the right one for this set, according to the sticker on it, it's supposed to read 90ohms-480ohms across it, Stancor A-8131, I don't know what set it's supposed to go to, but I took a pic. I also took a pic of my new RAM X124 sitting in there not hooked up yet, you can see on each side of it where someone previously working on the set drilled two holes to mount the other flyback.

That flyback wasn't even close... Your second is alot closer.
Other correct replacement is a Fly-45.
Check your lin. coil.
Thoroughly clean dirt on both sides of that fibre board, or, you are inviting arcing.
HV cap should be 500pf 20KV, Correct hv is about 13KV.
Bill Cahill :yes:

Here's pics of the new flyback and doorknob cap installed.

On that cap, the sams gives the capacitance at 250pf, so that's what I got, this replacement unit is 30kv, so it was a bit larger than the original, I had to widen the hole it sits in a bit and bend back the clips it hooks on to to get it to fit.

Linearity coil checks out ok.

Well, the lin. coil checked ok with the ohm meter, but it smoked when I plugged the set in, I'll check tomarrow to see if any of the ones in any of the junk chassis I have around here are interchangeable.

I pulled the chassis, and that coil still tests good, but it must be bad, when I turned the set on I lost HV almost immediately and then the coil started to smoke. Now I have a 730TV parts chassis and according to sams both the 730TV and the 6T65 use part # 71449, but it lists the 6T65 coil as 30ohms, and the 730TV one at 36ohms, but I think I'm going to try swapping the coil from the 730TV parts chassis tomarrow anyway. If the 730TV one won't work I also have a T-100 I'm probably going to eventually part out although I didn't yet look to see if that uses the same coil.