Rare find! A Magnavox Brittany tv!
 

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/46599495...62865189_n.jpg

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/46599767...43642247_n.jpg

I don't have it yet, but hope to in a couple weeks.
It's about 3.5 hours drive from here.
The ting seems in rough shape, but is worth saving.
Also taking a gamble on it as it MAY have a 16AP4, 16AP4A CRT on it, and we all know what they have a habit of doing! :tears:

Oh wow! I think I saw someone post about that on FB a few months ago. Funny to see all the back and forth about value. For sure it's rare and unusual. I'm glad you're saving it.

16AP4s are out there. I was able to get a good used one for my Stromberg Carlson not long ago.

What was the year of manufacture?

I wont know till i get it, as fer as I know they were made from 1947/50 or later, so it may be a metal cone or glass type.

I managed to find service info on it, took a few tries, and it seems it;s a bit odd!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/maggie-b.jpg

Have not seen dual HV rects before! :D

Voltage doubler to get 14kV. What CRT does it use?

Says it has a 16AP4

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/93A-9.pdf
also seems to have a rca 630ts style voltage divider in it.

OK, I asked because 14kV is the max for a 16AP4. Looks like they pushed it hard.

The more I look at the schematic, the more they seem to have borrowed from the early RCA sets, as it looks very familiar. :D
And they seem to be using a lot of 6SN7GTs :O
And it has AGC! :yes:

I have a Magnavox Embassy combo set with perhaps the same TV chassis, mine is a CT-246, one of the ones on that schematic diagram. (The diagram was the only thing published by Sams, in set 91A or 97A or something like that.)

I got mine in 1979, and I did some repairs on it in 1980 (years before I knew about replacing all of the paper capacitors). I did get a raster, dim but enough to see that it had DC restoration, such a nice sight. Yes, mine has a 16AP4 CRT.

15 years ago or more, a local seller on Craigslist had the same model as mine, but with a curved-corner-rectangle mask rather than the double-D style on mine and Yamamaya42's set. It was gone before I could see it.

(Update: I see that Yamamaya42 posted the Photofact folder above. Thank you! I was close on the number...)

As a teenager, I remember reading a 1950 Popular Science article how to convert your TV from a 10BP4 to a 16AP4.

https://books.google.com/books?id=KS...icture&f=false

Well, was all set to go pick this set up this weekend, but something came up to delay it another week. :(

Looking at the schematic, this will be a real pain to fix, as I hinted, it has 5 6SN7GTs, NOT CHEAP if new are needed, and the lack of info so far, if any parts are needed, no info on the Vertical blocking oscillator transformer or output transformers, and the peaking coils also have no information about them, coils just say “white, black, green, yellow” no H value listed.
There may be a Magnavox service document out there someplace with more details, but I have yet to find it.

All seems set to go get it tomorrow, and the first thing I will do when I get it back, test the 16AP4. :drool: Will it be a paperweight? :O

I got it!!! :banana:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251855.jpg front view
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251855b.jpg LOOK! ALL THE KNOBS ARE THERE!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251855c.jpg Back view, someone stole the HV cover!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251914.jpg PWS, I dont think that one 5U4GB is good for some reason.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251837a.jpg :scratch2: um that's not a 16AP4, funny, it says 16AP4 on the chart!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251913.jpg testing...
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251913a.jpg DEAD! STONE DEAD! 20 min, wont wake up.:tears::tears:
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251948.jpg COOKED!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0222251948a.jpg 16FP4
It's clear that thus is a replacement, and it too was run to death. the 16FP4 is almost an inch larger than the original tube it was made for and is oversized for the screen bezel that was in there, but was made to work.

https://tubedata.altanatubes.com.br/...27/1/16FP4.pdf
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/1/16AP4.pdf

Now i need to find SOMETHING i can make work in there again! :scratch2::sigh:

It wants to live!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0223251102a.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/flir_20250223T110141.jpg

power transformer is good!

5U4GBs removed, filament power only.
Could not get power from main cord to work bad switch or safety interlock not engaged correctly, hooked power direct to primary winding of the transformer.

Is there room to mount a rectangular CRT if you had to? Like a 17BP4?

Yes, if the glass and plastic bezel are off, there there is a very large space, but how easy is a 17BP4 to find?

ETF does have some 16L/CP4 tubes, which are rather close, and could be adapted if need be.

Trivial, compared to a 16AP4. There are lots of other 17" rectangular CRTs too. Got one for $20 at the last swap meet.

Chassis removed.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0223251338.jpg

Looks like it's been worked on before, those orange drops are not original, the multi section capacitors are shot, looks like they got hot, one is bulged.

The filter choke looks awful, (L112), looks baked, dark enamel , exposed copper, seen on the lower left corner of the main section, it does not test open or short, but it looks toasted, as if C201A had shorted and overloaded it.
And since there is no type info for replacement that I can find yet, but this horizontal output section seems to be very close to the RCA 630TS, having the same pi filter feeding the damper, I tracked down the replacement shown in the SAMS for a RCA 630TS, (stancor c-2326) for $13, my guess that it's correct enough to work.

With that, does anyone know if there is any other service info on this set, other than the SAMS I found with just the schematic? Cause w/o a guide to what is what and where, it's gonna be a royal pain!
Thanks! :D

Don't forget the horizontal output transformer has two filament windings. 10 and 12" CRT varieties only used one. It's possible you could move the HV filament loops from your old flyback to a replacement, but there could be other subtle differences in the other windings. I wouldn't assume yours is bad until you get it operational. Have you figured out what this TV's model number is?

I have that in mind, I'm not sure if the flyback in this set is good or bad yet, I'm hoping it's OK, I just know that so far that the filter choke looks like hell, will post a pic of it later.

If by chance the FBT is bad, i still have the RAM replacement that I have for my FADA, 895, that should work, i would just have to add a 2nd winding.
the chassis is a ct-245.

No longer available info. :D

Got it! Tks! :D
that will help!

They seem to be missing a parts detail of the audio amp area. :(
Something has been chewing on the caps in that area:tears:


http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251601a.jpg
sad looking filter

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251603d.jpg
bad caps

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251603c.jpg
FBT

Wire broke off when i removed the cap from the tube
any way you can get a more detailed shot of page 6-4? focusing in on the chassis detail and not so much the text? cause when you zoom in, it gets fuzzy and it;s hard to make out the numbers, TKS ! :D

Will try doing that tomorrow when I have some sunlight.

oops double posted.

Curious how well the 16FP4 (60 degree) worked as a replacement for the 16AP4 (52 degree)? I would expect the additional 8 degrees of deflection required was remedied some how?
I tried a 16GP4 (70 degree) in place of a 16EP4 (60 degree) in a Zenith porthole, and ended up with a neck shadow issue of about an inch, as the yoke couldn't be slid enough forward.
I read once where the "old timers" would soften the yoke in an oven, then force it over a bottle to flare it open a little. Fixed, LOL... Gotta love them old timers.

P.S.

You'll never "neck" one of these with that "2x4" running down the back, LOL
:lmao:

Any opinions on that crappy looking filter coil? :(

I tried this several times but the original is so small and the print quality has reduced the definition of some of the component numbers. Possibly someone else has a better quality print in their Riders 6, but I suspect this happened when they reduced the original to fit the page space.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152661...7720324061767/

If it works brush some polyurethane on for additional insulation and wrap paper around it for appearance.

Status so far.

CRT = 16FP4 -DEAD, working to get a replacement 16LP4, slightly different, but close enough.
Chassis out, evidence of rodent activity, but minor, did not get under main chassis, did chew in audio sub, no wires chewed.

Cover of HV cage gone, dirty inside, will need lots of cleaning, FBT status unknown, wires very brittle, one snapped in half when removing HOT caps, at least one of the 500 pf caps has cracks in the surface, the one on the top of the 1B3GTs, may be from heat, good/ bad unknown, if bad, may replace with 2 1000pf (10kv) in series.

Main filter looks awful, but is not open, will try to coat it as suggested, if it fails, have a STANCOR C-2326 on the way.

All electrolytic capacitors were ordered, and have just arrived, already have a mess of film capacitors and resistors.

Will start on it Friday night, beginning with the audio sub section, since it comes out and is easy to access, then main power.

First goal point, to get the horizontal oscillator up and running.

will d/l your document when i get home.

Have you ohmed it? Prolly be a few hundred ohms if good. If there's no leakage to the frame, it may be OK.

53ohms, ish, I have not done a leakage test on it yet, I will when I remove it to try to coat the windings.

Maybe the collective wisdom on the group can say if the resistance sounds right. I don't recollect ever actually measuring a filter choke. They seemed to be among the least failure-prone components.

53 ohms sounds perfectly reasonable and it looks OK. Moisture, critters or time probably caused the paper covering to fall off.

much better, i can see the numbers now! Thanks! :D

Well, If I do need peaking coils, this prob is the key! :D
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ltoAA...O/s-l1600.webp

more photos of the FBT area

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251827a.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251827.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251827b.jpg

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/flyback.jpg

took some measurements, perhaps its good, but the resistors are bad!
R225 is not there at all!
I'm not sure what the FBT should test at, so I hope it's OK! :D

but the wires are no good. falling apart!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0226251831.jpg

the chewed audio section.

Is that 6.5 Megaohms? If so, that's bad. Should be around 200-300 ohms

i need a FBT then :( 320035-1