CRT pins crushed during shipping, can this be fixed?
 

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1633051580

Neck pins have been bent, and the plastic spacer thing (what is it called btw?) has been cracked. What is the best way to attempt to fix this? What is the plastic pin spacer called? Is it called the “CRT base”? Any idea on where I cam buy a replacement CRT base?

You should be able to straighten the pins with a needle nose pliers. The plastic locating key base can be removed from a dud CRT. Many of them are brittle from the heat.
You really don't need it. After the pins are straightened, it shouldn't be too hard to find out which way the socket goes on.

Ouch. Look at the pins with a magnifier. If they look fatigued I might be tempted to solder wires to them. Might look fugly but if it is a rare tube or in great shape you might think about it.

Two things can go wrong. Break off a pin or stress out the
glass & loose vacuum. You may be able to hold the base of the pins
while straightening the pins to reduce stress. Dont have to be perfect. The socket will have some play.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Call it destroyed in shipping and file a claim with the seller...... :sigh:

NOS CRTs typically ship with a pin straightener that doubles as a pin protector. I keep every straightener I get and if I bend a pin I use that, if I bend a pin too severely to use it I use needle nose to bend it back into the ballpark where the straightener will work then use it.

It looks savable if you go slow and carefully, but you won't know till you try.

I think shango066 made a video where he fixed the pins on a tv. I dont remember what video it was though

Just very gingerly straighten them out with some flat-billed needle nose pliers. Work in steps on each one, don't straighten a pin in one straight shot. If one breaks, you'll have to get creative with soldering.

I got a refund due to FedEx quite obviously abusing the package. It looks like they threw it around several dozen times.

I used pliers to slowly straighten the pins. See the picture below for the progress. The plastic “pin key” or “CRT base” or whatever it is called crumbled into brittle dust. If anyone has a spare plastic CRT base pin spacer, I am interested in buying it.

I can get my CRT tester socket to fit on to the CRT now. I will test the CRT electron gun tomorrow with my BK 490b.

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1633146104

Does this happen to be a CRT for a PortaColor?

If you need the plastic base, you can usually find a CRT brightener on Ebay cheap, and use the parts from it.

I might have a spare base key plastic in my stash.

I once applied for a job at UPS. In the tour I saw packages flying off a conveyor belt piling up on the floor.
I doubt FedEx is any different.
FedEx lost a body here. Big news story. Yep, they even ship bodies (from morgues to funeral homes, etc).
https://www.fox5atlanta.com/news/mur...es-them-to-lab
FedEx has a lot of problems with employee turnover. They are not union like UPS.

Yes, this is an 11SP22 CRT that is used in the early Portacolor chassis revisions. I still need to test the gun, vacuum, and shadow mask, all of which may have been damaged during shipping.


I sent you a private message, and appreciate the help.

I do have one off a deltagun CRT that got EOLd years ago.

Good luck.
I once knew a tech who dropped a Tektronix 492 spectrum analyzer. Everything survived EXCEPT the crt. Something bent in the gun that made the display useless. A new tube was unavailable as Tektronix had gone LCD by this time.
I thought the CE was going to strangle the guy. A $20K piece of equipment was trashed. Glad it wasn't me!
And yeah, your shadow mask may be bent as well.

You got lucky. I've had ones that were way less bent that snapped off and the edge of the glass. Funny thing was is the set was in use when it broke. It was a 10ASP4 in a early 70's Admiral portable. The filiments went put and found out the pin for filimet had busted off. It must have been fractured and was just hanging on.

I had no luck soldering to it and getting it to flow and stick. I ended up putting a pin down through the CRT socket and made contact with the broken stub. Seemed to work alright

Hope it works out for you!
 

Get back with us and let us know the results.
If its not usable, you might could get a tube from a solid state portacolor that would work.
I know they made 9's and 13's, but not sure about 11's. The new tubes are "ultra-rectangular" and you might have trouble fitting them into the bezel. Also they have a different deflection angle.

FedEx is neither federal or express. They had a shooting at one of their facilities recently:
https://abcnews.go.com/US/alleged-gu...ry?id=77182531
Most of their drivers around here look like druggies to me!

I used to dig CRT's out of the dumpster behind the TV shop as a kid and straighten many a pin out with a needle nose. Just take your time and be very patient working from the end down to the glass, don't go for perfection here. I doubt the mask is wrinkled with the small size of this one, I've had 19V tubes dropped and the mask was fine.
Sure miss those PortaColor sets, my first experience came with a serious zap as I didn't know anything about the polarized cords... I was just 10 and dad wasn't impressed with my choice of words!

The Portacolor CRTs are 70-degree, 10-inch, inline gun CRTs. Has anyone successfully swapped in a 90-degree CRT from the solid state Portacolors? In theory, the higher the deflection degree, the more deflection current is needed, and the Portacolor's horizontal deflection tube has a low to medium current rating. So it may struggle to fill the screen.

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1633645203

I used a BK490b CRT Tester to test the CRT. At first it tested bad, so I tested for heater to cathode shorts, which showed there was a short. So I ran the "remove shorts" function, and after a single spark, the CRT tested good. Note that this is a newer BK CRT tester, so it only has 6.3v and 12v heater options. The Portacolor 11SP22 has a 13.8v heater. If it tests good at 12v, then at the full 13.8v the emissions will be even better. I am going to test it again after another 7 days, to see if emissions decline a lot, which would indicate the damage during shipping has caused the vacuum to slowly go away. I have also found that with CRTs that have been kept in storage for multiple decades, they sometimes test bad at first, but if you use the CRT tester at max G2 voltage and minimum K to G1 voltage, you can get the cathodes to reactivate. It takes a minute or two, and it is much more gentle than using the rejuvenation options that drive 50mA through the cathodes.

The only spare Portacolor chassis I have for the 11SP22 is an "HE" chassis, which is made for the high voltage Portacolor CRTs. The 11SP22 is a low voltage CRT. I started a new thread here to discuss modifying a high voltage CRT chassis to work with a low voltage CRT. Comparing schematics, I think the changes are straightforward.

i have the same tester!

it can NOT test a 21fjp22 :tears: :thumbsdn: even though there are sockets to do so.
found this out the hard way.
it does NOT have enough current to light the heaters.
IF, you use external power for the heaters on 21 color roundie, then you can test with it... kind of dumb BK...

The filament on the 13" solid state portacolor measures 5.5 volts AC and is derived from the scan supply.

One question - was that 21FJP known to be under vacuum? The reason being: if it had gone to air, the heaters would be immersed in a heat-conductive fluid (air) and wouldn't be able to light up, thus continuing to pull heavy 'cold' current, which some testers' transformer can't supply. IIRC, Phil Nelson ran into this once upon a time on a 21" roundie. The tester was buzzing in protest, the heaters weren't lighting up, yet the whole gun end of the jug was getting hot from conduction since the jug had gone to air.

Replacement base pin key arrived. The CRT is fully repaired now!
http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1635376687

That's great news. Good for you!

Have you put it on a tester, or done any rudimentary checks to verify the pins still have continuity?

This style of socket the pins usually snap off before they loose continuity (I learned that the hard way on a 15NP22). The only things to worry about on these style bases if the pins are straight and not easily wiggled is that the glass hasn't cracked and that emissions are good.

Great news :banana:
Just to mention my 50Cents:
I'd heat the bent pis up with a hair dryer or something else just to avoid breaking them off.

No, the tubes tested are fine and working.

Here you can see the problem...

https://i.imgur.com/5U5utJr.jpg

this is directly from the BK manual for the model 490b.

It shows for 6v 1 AMP max...

Here are the specs on the tube
https://i.imgur.com/1cf6BVv.jpg
1.8 amps for the heaters.

the model 490b does NOT have enough power to light them up, this is a design fault by BK.
If you try, the voltage drops from 6.3 to below 3.9 and all guns test BAD.
the only way to use the model 490b to test the large roundies is to get external power for the heaters of 2 amps or more.

BAD mistake on bk precision's part.:nono:

More FedEx Woes
 

Beware of using FedEx again!

https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news...arges-rcna8454

What's almost as bad as the actual crime is the driver's attempt to make excuses.

When I sold a 11WP22 Porta-color CRT, I didn't bother to remove the yoke or other neck components. I figured, I would make it easy for the next user to leave it in place.
I don't remember how I shipped it, possibly USPS. It arrived undamaged!