FOUND! ARVIN 9219-cm-uhf television.
 

This was found locally ( within 20 miles ), but I do not have it yet, it appears to be an in cabinet type set, the wood appears to be in very good condition, condition, but I'm told it does not work.
I am very tempted to go get it, but I never even heard of “ARVIN” before finding this set, and am not sure of its reputation.
And the owner has said that they would like to see me restore it rather than have someone turn it into a doghouse, etc, so I ask, is this set worth it? :o

Arvin was a radio manufacturer from the mid-30's to sometime in the early 70's. The products they built were actually very good. They were a big supplier to Sears and other private label products.

One step closer to having the set, it's now paid for, I just have to go get it now!

I so agree! They made very nice sets in the early days. In fact many of their radios from the '30's are highly sought after. Their 8" metal TV's from 1950 have become more and more popular too. They also made some very cool art-deco space heaters in the '40's.
Definitely a TV worth saving.

Did you know that Arvin made a piece of broadcast equipment. They built the Arvin Echo Framestore.
I think it would only store ONE picture. It was a whole rack of electronics. Only the networks had them. Late 70's.

I've got one of their FM stereo table sets from 1967. All tube with push pull outputs and phono input, chrome face and real wood cabinet...it's the next best thing to a big name receiver if you want something that won't cost 3 figures.

Arvin Industries was based out of Columbus, Indiana which is just east of Bloomington, where Indiana University is based out of.

they made great radios back in the day, in fact I have an Arvin made Coronado model 650B Farm Radio (battery only set) from 1938 and that radio is a great little performer as it picks up tons of stations at night with a 30' long piece of wire hooked up to it.:thmbsp: :music:

Well, I pick it up this Sat, and the first thing I will do. obviously is yank the back off and hook the CRT up to the BK 490B to see how good it is.

It's a type I have I not seen before with a PM focus ring.
21ep4b.

I had an Arvin AC-DC 4- or 5-tube radio, model 540T (I'm not sure anymore how many tubes it had) years ago. It was housed in a green metal cabinet and had an external antenna terminal on the back cover, with a short wire antenna permanently connected to the antenna input circuit. It worked well enough for me (I lived in a Cleveland suburb, 15 miles from the city, at the time), but I was not too pleased with the fact that it was a hot-chassis set in a metal cabinet. The external antenna terminal was isolated from the chassis by a small capacitor, of course, but it could still be a shock hazard if that capacitor were defective (leaky), and could blow the line fuse if said capacitor were shorted. I remember being shocked once (only once) by this radio when I accidentally touched the chassis and a grounded metal gas stove in the kitchen at the same time; believe me, an experience like that will teach you a lesson you will never forget!

However, I now live in a small town some 45 miles from the local AM stations in Cleveland, so this radio probably wouldn't receive many or even most of the smaller ones (5kW or less; there were and still are a few of those in this area) very well during the day, and probably not at all after dark when the stations change their antenna radiation patterns to favor the immediate Cleveland area. This is probably, even likely, why this particular set had an external antenna terminal. However, one had to be very careful not to touch that terminal and a grounded metal object at the same time, for reasons I mentioned earlier. This kind of design could well be a death trap, which is why I am glad AC-operated solid-state radios are no longer designed this way; there is almost always a small transformer used to power the chassis. The only way this arrangement could present a shock hazard would be if someone deliberately touched the AC input terminals on the transformer or, of course, if the power cord itself were frayed or otherwise damaged.

Your Coronado set is made by Kingston radio corp.
Arvin made one with a similar circuit.

Arvin made those radios by the million, many of them badged "Silvertone", Sears private label.
The chassis and metal cabinet was isolated from the line by a .05 cap and a 330K ohm resistor. The isolating capacitor on yours was probably leaky, due to age and it was a paper capacitor.

funny that u mention that...

https://i.imgur.com/vl1CVzf.jpg

I was just looking at that part of the schematic :O

It's fortunate that the set has an all glass CRT. A lot of Arvin 21" sets had a metal cone CRT, a 21AP4, which did not age very well.

SAMS dates it from 1954, about a year older than the stromberg carlson i found, which had a CRT that tested strong, so who knows, will have to see what happens, it IS and oddball size, but there are options.

70 degree deflection angle.
the B version IS aluminized.
as mentioned magnetic focus, with perm mag rings.
on the VERY outside chance that it's bad and or can NOT be made to work, and i deem this unlikely, but you never know :(
ETF has a 21XP4 which is ALMOST the same, Low voltage focus & slightly dif dimensions, with a bit of creative bodging, can be made to work, it's not THAT different in size, would have to adjust the border and mount a bit, and create a volt source for focus, but I seriously doubt this will be a problem, but I have researched it! :D

The 21XP4 is an odd-ball, 21 inch CRT with a smaller viewing surface, similar to a 21WP4 used in some Admirals.
The 21EP4 is a cylindrical face plate CRT. Check to see if it's usable first.

21EP4 isn't that much of and oddball. I have a set with one, and found a spare fairly easily. The set (Bendix!) has a NOS Sylvannia (still had the cap and warranty card). Nice picture. Oddly, I aligned it using the 'meter method', instead of a sweep alignment (it wasn't really off anyway). Best picture of any set I have, though it tends to have a bit of color subcarrier in it. I wish I could get my cable box to give a signal with no color subcarrier...

If your cable box has S-video output all you need to get rid of the subcarrier is an external RF modulator and a modified S-video to RCA cable. S-video is 2 coaxes. One has just monochrome video and sync the other coax carries just the color subcarrier. A S-video to RCA cable simply Ys the 2 coaxes into one...all you gotta do is cut the color Coax or remove it's pin from the S-video plug.

Looks like work has been done on it before, some new caps there

https://i.imgur.com/hcwNMTu.jpg


it USED to have casters....
https://i.imgur.com/HCMc3dY.jpg

not too bad looking
https://imgur.com/V9qORzf

now the VERY BAD NEWS...

https://i.imgur.com/Q4LSddi.jpg

I have no option but to get an 21XP4 from ETF and adapt it to fit and work, i wont find a 21EP4 for it. that is for sure.

It will be tricky, but it can be done...

What about sound? Oh wait - they make modulator that take all three in, don't they?

(I've not done the modulator thing before..)

Most consumer RF modulators have stereo RCA sound input, but some have mono...You can Y the sound channels together if it has mono input (though combining through a couple of 1k resistors is better). Cabling on such a setup isn't too bad.

The sad state of the former 21ep4b https://i.imgur.com/pXE3HJm.jpg you can almost see the numbers on the socket!

working on getting a replacement.


my cat has to check it out, of course.

It's a shame it's in that state.

I probably wouldn't have paid money for it if I saw it was necked...the CRTs are worth as much as a good restorable set so unless the set is REALLY special it doesn't make sense to dig that financial hole.

I would not have gotten it had i known, but that is the point , I did not, :(

I just don't want to quit at just hardly starting.

I'm also thinking about the 21AWP4 as a replacement.

it is NOT a 70 degree tube but a 72, not sure if that will matter or not, but ETF has one, it IS magnetic focus, and has a screen size close to the 21ep4b, I'm really not sure when it comes to finding a sub for these things.

electronically, it looks the same, if it WON'T work due to the diff in angle I will go with the first choice of the 21xp4. :scratch2:

unbelievable... :yikes:
https://i.imgur.com/VqENg46.jpg

i have done nothing to this chassis yet other than a slow power up!

And so it has begun, a quick test with the 8yp4 test CRT showed me I had good HV and horz sweep and NO vert, I thought OK, most likely due to bad caps, but I did see that some work in the area had been done before. After a bit of poking around, found OK voltage on the plate of the Ver output, but in the plate of the Osc, nothing... 0 volts. :(

Which was tracked down to a bad Osc transformer
one winding is 1k,, the other SHOULD be 200 ohms, wide open... already found a new one.

what I'm facing getting a replacement CRT

what was in there
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/093/2/21EP4A.pdf

As mentioned, this is a magnetic focus 70 degree tube
one option
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/093/2/21XP4A.pdf
another 70 degree tube but electrostatic focus and slightly smaller dimensions

the other option
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/093/2/21AWP4.pdf
this is a magnetic focus 72 degree tube which seems to have exact electronic footprint of the original tube but has slightly larger dimensions ( can also be made to fit )
Choices choices :O

its obvious what happened now,,,

https://imgur.com/I9bx3ux

before

https://imgur.com/niai1YF

after

i bought i based what i saw on the first picture

when i got there, the seller had said that they had already started to try moving it, i also saw that the back was off.

this can only mean that THEY NECKED IT yesterday...
it was not broken up until then. careless error on the seller.

i confirmed this by placing the electron gun elements in water, the getter foamed up like crazy even this many hours later, meaning the metals it it had not oxidized yet meaning a fresh rupture.

should i scream an yell at the seller? demand money back? where will that get me?

bottom line I need a CRT now...

but they SHOULD have said something. because there is no way they could have known that they did not break it.

...

I have, what I think is good, a 21FP4 which is an electrostatic focus tube. Looks the same with the cylindrical faceplate. It's a rebuilt and I don't think it has many hours of use. I have to check it first and see if it's worthwhile.
All you have to do is remove the PM focus unit.

you can see that it already wants to live!

https://i.imgur.com/ryF4EKY.jpg

running at 90v input so as not to burn the test CRT.

vert osc transformer on the way.

The CRT checks out perfectly!
I'll PM you soon with the cost of the tube and the shipping. :thmbsp:

sent you my address in PM. :)

Just ordered a bunch of electrolytic caps for the set, not sure when Mouser will ship them out, they still seem to be lagging. :(
I'm still quite surprised that the chassis was able to power up and work as much as it did w/o being touched, but there is signs of it being worked on before, especially in the IF and Vert, areas, kind of sux that the osc transformer is toast, I wonder how often they go bad?
https://i.imgur.com/CejiNie.jpg

Plate voltage on the vert output was OK, but nothing going into the grid.
Had 0 volts on the plate of the Vert Osc, but 200v on the red wire going into the x-former.
1k between YEL/GRN infinite between RED/BLUE, DEAD! :(
Was not too hard to find a NOS stancor a-8122.

But anyway, before I do anything to it, I'm gonna take pics of every inch of the chassis.

interesting...

the heater is still intact
https://i.imgur.com/W9A88bN.jpg

NOT a original coil...
https://i.imgur.com/bSHhtej.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GQ3r6VR.jpg

SOME new caps
CRAPPY solder work,, that power resistor looks like HELL.

https://i.imgur.com/iFRK3UY.jpg

scribbling in the IF?
https://i.imgur.com/iFRK3UY.jpg


WHERE THE HELL IS THE COVER TO THE TUNER?
https://i.imgur.com/0QAyWVe.jpg
the plastic for the numbers is rotten too :(

https://i.imgur.com/HONXwg2.jpg
top view

https://i.imgur.com/g9irgEL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cnzgqFS.jpg
VERY dusty

FBT looks good
https://i.imgur.com/X0P1niO.jpg

But...
WHERE THE HELL IS THE COVER FOR THE HV CAGE???
are you trying to blast people with x-rays?

and notice 2 FUSES?
if you are going to replace a blown fuse, TAKE THE BAD ONE OUT IDIOT!!

obviously who ever worked on this before had no love for the set...

gonna have to take it into the garage and give it a good cleaning.

finding more bad parts already:tears:

open peaking coils

https://i.imgur.com/GQ3r6VR.jpg you can seem them here, they are cracked open and grey I saw that they had exposed coils and are WIDE open.. only the resistors show when tested.

https://i.imgur.com/LR4GpTs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5jNjKAZ.jpg

for L39 i found a NOS NIB J.W. Miller 6154 200 uH Filter Choke Peaking Coil 3/8
could not find an exact list replacement for L36 so i got a Merit TV-183 Peaking Coil 180 mH 10 ohm seemed close enough, as they listed 180 as other replacements.

Even MORE things BAD!

1.1k 22 watts candohm resistor OPEN!

gonna put a 25 watt in the sucker

one of the 2 bad peaking coils, these are NOT original coils, they have been replaced before, and have gone to crap...

https://imgur.com/rIOEEXw

You're are seeing a lot of crappy repair work that was done in the 50s-70s. They could do haphazard work and still get the TV to work OK. I've seen a lot of missing HV covers. Some repairmen just didn't put them back on, especially if they were difficult to re-install. Based on the voltages involved with B&W TVs, there wasn't that much of an X-ray hazard. The cage was mainly to contain the high voltages. It's also possible that the customer didn't want the TV repaired after the repairman gave them an estimate and the repairman just slapped it back into the cabinet, thinking that the TV would never be repaired.

Littlefuse made a fuse holder which allowed to you piggyback a new pigtail-less fuse onto a pigtail fuse. I used them some when I didn't have the exact value fuse in the pigtail configuration.

I have seen those clip in fuses before, but what was done here was a pigtail fuse soldered over a burned out one, they did not take the time to remove it and neatly put it in.

the tuner is is very bad shape, been sprayed a LOT and greasy, the wires in is are starting to lose their covering, I'm afraid to touch it.

IF section is also borked, I did a spot check of s few resistors 10% ones ones that should have been 47 ohms tested around 56, If i try to replace, I'm not sure if i will be able to tune in anything cause of the tuner and/ or alignment.
I SORT of can hear something when changing channels, but VERY weak.

IF all else fails, A/V input.