Sony Indextron...What do I have here guys? (REPAIR IN PROGRESS)
 

So i happened upon a white sony indextron at the thrift store the other day and found some interesting things online about it but as a whole there isnt a ton. It isnt currently working but i may hae found the culprit in a blown fuse on the power board. Upon visual inspection the caps look fine though the esr is reading a bit high on most. I do plan to recap but i want to see what the fuse does first as I do like the idea of keeping it as original as possible.

Anyways are these things still sought after? What do you think its value might be at this point? I would post pictures but at the moment it is in pieces. Like I said it is a white version with a manufacture date of Jan. 1989. The buttons have slightly yellowed with age which is pretty typical of electronics from this era.

I've had several of these over the years, and although they are pretty cool and have some unique technology behind them, they are vary finicky, and die easily. I'm actually glad to no longer own any of them.

These are not easy to recap. And the problematic caps in these spew corrosive gunk on the circuit boards causing further damage. You may be better off having Andy recap it, he has the experience with these. http://mail.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=122975

You can get the service data from Jerome Halphen here: http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...9&postcount=11

The white one seems to be much scarcer than the black one.

The value is hard to determine, because very few appear in any year on ebay. But they are down from the early 2000's, where a good one could bring in $300-750 depending on condition, complete with the box, etc.

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Thank you so much for the response. I first want to say that I dont want anyone to think that I am only interested in what it is worth. I am more interested in the old school technology and the nostalgia factor. Not to mention the challenge of repair. Though I am very much a beginner when it comes to understanding circuits and the components contained within them i am fairly decent with a soldering iron and jump at the chance to further my skills with a new challenge. I would certainly love to get Andys take on the actual repair process and any tips he may have. When it comes down to it it may end up in his hands anyways :).

As far as the caps in my unit it has passed the sight test with flying colors. Not a single cap is bulging and i have not been able to find any signs of a leak. I know this really doesnt mean anything and i still plan to recap but I just thought that was interesting given the fact that its pretty much the first thing you read about when you look these things up. I have tested about four of the caps already with an esr meter and they were all reading slightly above spec telling me that if they arnt bad already they are certainly on their way out. The biggest most obvious issue that i did notice was the blown galss fuse. It make me wonder if this fuse blew earlier in its life which might explain the relative "ok'ness" of the caps. Its all speculation at this point until I am able to get a replacement fuse in. It has been surprisingly hard to find a fuse of that exact type. I have yet to find someone that sells a through hole glass fuse with the same specs as the original. I might just buy a holder style glass fuse and solder the pins from the old one to the new one. after all it does look like the old one was done this way.

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Shibby:

First, welcome to Videokarma. As to reliability, just what Andy said, especially his last paragraph. I own two Indextron's, both recapped by Andy. This was done 7 years ago. They both function well today.

The point I want to stress, congratulations, you have come into possession of a very rare television in terms of uniqueness and television history. If you don't already know, these sets are highly desired by collectors, the reason being, the Indextron was the first stand alone Index color consumer television. The Indextron paints a color picture with only one electron beam! See this link for more information. https://visions4netjournal.com/indextron/

Edit: I have the complete service manual. It's yours for the asking.

Thanks so much for chiming in. Now that I look close there are def a few that have gone. One is leaking out of the side and 2 others are leaking out of the bottom and you can see where a bit of corrosion has set in on the underside of the board where the legs come through. So do you replace literally every cap? even the tiny ones without the scored tops? better yet do you happen to have a list of all the required caps needed for the job? An old digikey shopping list would be super helpful. Would certainly be willing to throw a few bucks your way for the effort.

Also now that you say that about the power adapter the blown fuse may be my own fault. It did come with the original power adapter but when i plugged it in at the thrift store to test the tv i got nothing. when i grabbed the adapter i accidentally dropped it on the floor so i thought it might be possible that i accidentally broke it. I grabbed another adapter of the same spec and tried again but nothing. That may be where it popped because before i distinctly remember hearing a noise come through the speaker when i initially plugged it in but after trying the other adapter i got nothing.

Ill post pictures here in a bit.

etype2 thanks so much for the welcome. for a while there i didnt think i would ever get logged in here. I think it took almost a week to get accepted after fighting for nearly a full day to even create an account. Anyways I finally made it. Thank you so much for the offer. I would love to have it if it isnt too much trouble.

Also it may sound crazy but its sort of an honor to me that i get to work on such a niche little part of history. I am certainly not into old televisions like the rest of you but I can certainly appreciate it. My grandfather in his day was the local tv repair guy and when I was very young i use to watch him fix them in his work room. That along with old jukeboxes. I really wish the family still had that house along with all the old tools to be able to share with you guys. He died a few years ago and left me with all of his old audio equipment including 70's record players, several reel to reel players and countless records and reels. did i mention he fixed jukeboxes? this means when he would get a new one in he would empty the records to add to his collection then sell the fixed machine off to the new guy. needless to say my little townhome is busting at the seems with boxes. or at least it use to be. I was able to sell of a good bit of the undesirable stuff.

The Service manuel has a lot of pages, waveforms, parts list etc. Will try to send you a PDF.

Good luck with it.

At the bottom is the parts list I sent to Mouser. It was supposed to
be all the caps with a few extra type because I was not sure of size fit.
I missed a few, including one hidden under the shield (bit only one) and two
on the main board, I believe 0.47 uF. This was all the 105 degree C caps.
Almost all were actually bad.

Even recapped it didn't work since my attempts at cleaning the goo
didn't get under the surface mount resistors. Apparently you really do need
an ultrasonic. I had to pay Andy. He said that the problem was surface
mount resistors that were still stuck on but had bad solder contacts.

It does work OK except that some controls have slightly inadequate range.

Doug McDonald


The caps listed below are indeed correct types.

Select Product Detail
Customer Part #

Order Qty.

Price
(USD)

Ext.
(USD)

Status Date Invoice #

Mouser #: 647-UPW1E471MPD
Mfr. #: UPW1E471MPD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 25volts 470uF 10x16 20% 5LS
3 $0.30 $0.90
3 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-UPW1A471MPD
Mfr. #: UPW1A471MPD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 10volts 470uF 8x11.5 20% 3.5LS
2 $0.26 $0.52
2 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-UHV0J331MED
Mfr. #: UHV0J331MED
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 6.3volts 330uF 105c 6.3x11 2.5LS
2 $0.39 $0.78
2 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-UPW0J221MED
Mfr. #: UPW0J221MED
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 6.3volts 220uF 6.3x11 20% 2.5LS
3 $0.23 $0.69
3 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 667-EEA-GA1C470B
Mfr. #: EEA-GA1C470B
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16volts 47uF 6.3X7mm L/S=5.0mm Ammo Crmp
2 $0.43 $0.86
2 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-USR1H220MDD
Mfr. #: USR1H220MDD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50volts 22uF 6.3x7 20% 2.5LS
4 $0.26 $1.04
4 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-USV1C100MFD
Mfr. #: USV1C100MFD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16volts 10uF
7 $0.41 $2.87
7 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-USV1V100MFD1TE
Mfr. #: USV1V100MFD1TE
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 10UF 35V 105c
2 $0.43 $0.86
2 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-UPW2C4R7MPD
Mfr. #: UPW2C4R7MPD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 160volts 4.7uF 8x11.5 20% 3.5LS
2 $0.34 $0.68
2 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 667-ECE-A1EKA4R7
Mfr. #: ECE-A1EKA4R7
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 4.7UF 25V MINI ALUM ELECT (KA)
3 $0.20 $0.60
3 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-UPW1HR47MDD
Mfr. #: UPW1HR47MDD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50volts 0.47uF 5x11 20% 2LS
3 $0.16 $0.48
3 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-USV1HR47MFD
Mfr. #: USV1HR47MFD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50volts 0.47uF 4x7 20% 1.5LS
2 $0.41 $0.82
2 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822

Mouser #: 647-UTT1H010MDD
Mfr. #: UTT1H010MDD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50volts 1uF Mini Low Impedance
3 $0.41 $1.23
3 Shipped Jun 30, 2016 41306822
Select All

Thanks so much dtvmcdonald....You guys are seriously awesome. I did plan to run the boards through an ultrasonic bath though i have never done that before. will need to look up a good bath solution and technique for this.

So heres some pictures for the curious. What do you guys think? As you can see at the end there the bromine has taken over the internal support pieces and they have become extremely brittle. Nearly every little clip broke during disassembly and i have been slowly reassembling it with cyanoacrylate (super glue) but the good stuff with the activator. The two pieces you see left there on the table i have yet to find the home for.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/FtOUV3.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...923/QhB09V.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...921/fTQCj2.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...921/6cscOS.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/kgosWj.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...924/K1dqxQ.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...921/B4YGj2.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...921/O8bQrU.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...923/2hsAA2.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...923/K6XGI7.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...923/W2A8zH.jpg

...

Here's a clue: www.ebay.com/itm/302255854452

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So I have finally gotten around to trying to fix this thing. A beautiful thrift store Sansui 661 got in the way among other things. So I went over every board and documented each and every through hole capacitor and sent the order out through Digikey. I have gotten the vast majority of the caps replaced except for some of the super tiny ones under the shields. I will get to these soon. The larger board that is directly connected to the tube seemed to have the most damage. Several leaky caps with electrolytic goo all over the board. the corrosive damage from this was seemingly minimal be there were certainly a few components that had suffered a bit of damage to their solder joints. I was able to get these joints cleaned up and fixed but i can say it certainly wasn't easy. I had never had the opportunity to work on a damaged bard such as this before so it was certainly a learning experience. I checked continuity between each solder joint and the next component down the line and everything looked good.

After getting the majority of the new caps in and fixing some ugly joints (it appears that someone has been in here before) I went to reassemble her on the bench to see if I would get anything out of her. In a temporary laps of brain power I stacked the main board connected to the tube (D1?) on top of the shield of the power board forgetting to place the cardboard spacer in between to prevent shorts. well I plugged her in and of course got nothing. Until about 10 seconds later the smoke came. I quickly unplugged the power supply and tried to see where it was coming from. After plugging it in a couple more times I was able to see that the smoke was coming from the B734 transistor on D1.

I pulled everything back apart and had a closer look. All three legs were burnt and she had a hole blown right through her. I have to admit it was kind of cool :). I went ahead and desoldered the transistor and sure enough there is a short between the collector and emitter pins. I had a look at everything else on the board and it doesn't seem as if anything else had suffered any damage. Heres hoping. I have a couple new transistors on the way from ebay so hopefully I'll be able to have another go here soon. I did try powering everything up again with the cardboard spacer in place and as expected did not get any smoke so I am certain that I am to blame for this and not a component on the board.

Anyway in the mean time I would like to look into running the boards through the ultrasonic (something I should have done first). Does anybody have any advice for disconnecting the D1 board from the tube? Also other than the flyback is it ok to leaving everything else on? Cables, Plugs, pots, chips and soldered in daughter boards?

...

Maybe I will have to inspect it closer. I am talking about the gray shielded wire that runs to the top of the tube and the other end runs into the metal box that seems to be soldered in place. Forgive me for I am not good with the proper names of things. I am not sure what the HV (high voltage?) connector is.

After doing some quick net research im guessing the grey shielded wire I was describing that goes to the top of the tube and also to the metal boc on the board is the flyback. Is that right? If so what is the HV connector? Please excuse my ignorance.

I Figured it out....lets just pretend like that never happened. :)

So after ultrasonic cleaning the boards are somehow now much worse off hah. It seems a white residue has formed. I noticed this same white residue when I was cleaning the boards after pulling caps with a horse hair acid brush and 99.9 isopropyl. Does anybody know what this residue might be? The only way i have been able to get the residue to disappear has been Windex all purpose cleaner. I'm sure using this isn't advised and that certainly won't help for things I can't reach. Any advise?

Google put this result on the top: http://www.kester.com/Portals/0/Docu...te_Residue.pdf

Thanks for that. I guess I didn't think to even search for that. Though I did try to find info when I first saw it when recapping but came up empty handed. I guess the residue isn't anything I need to be concerned about as it is essentially just the flux left on the board reacting with the chemicals.

Even so it still made me nervous so I went ahead and sprayed each board down with Lysol all purpose cleaner and went over them with the acid brushes. This instantly took away all signs of white residue and it actually dissipated pretty quickly. This stuff is a degreaser and soap scum remover. My only guess is the soap scum remover part of this is what is helping here.

Anyway I let one board dry under a fan and everything looked fantastic. To be sure though I did every board with the Lysol all purpose then gave each a quick dip in the isopropyl bath to repel any water and set them out to dry. This seems to be the magic recipie that works for me.

Hello everyone. Just wanted to stop in to say that I am still working on this. I was able to get the burnt transistor replaced but still no joy. luckily someone was kind enough to send me the service manual so hopefully at some point this weekend I can thumb through and do some quick voltage checks to see if everything looks right. I suspect also that a capacitor still might be the issue. There are a few of the very small ones that I have yet to replace but figured with all the main caps done I should at least see some change. Well I didn't but I do realize that it only takes one so I will be back at it soon. Any words of wisdom or advice here is always appreciated so don't be shy. See you guys soon.

If you ever decide to part company/that DREADFUL Indexotron, I'll take it off yer hands. Won't even charge my usual 99.95 that I get for unusual trash .I have a Sinkhole in my back yard that the County sez I can't toss old tyres into anymore. Spoil Sports-Most of them hi-falutin, Rootin Tootin types don't remember what all I have in there-There would be a bunch of VERY red faces if it ever got out & a BUNCH might end up spending awhile at the Brushy Mtn Graybar Hotel...

A SERIOUS question for a change- about the Indextron- WHY ?!? Sony had, arguably, w/the Trinitron CRT the best CRT in the business. Secondly, they must have known that the days of the CRT were about over, soon ,you couldn't GIVE one of the damthings away. To research/develop an almost totally new product that as far as I know, gave little/no benefits, except to a very slim number of customers, would seem to me to be NOT an especially financially astute thing to do.

Keep plugging away, you will get it. If not Andy can help. Good luck with it.

You've been asking that question time and again since I've been here. The answer is on this thread and previous threads.

'Scuse me, then...I had a Stroke 10-12 yrs back-I'm doin' good to remember where I Oui-Ouied last..I DO remember that I enjoyed visiting yr teeny-tiny TV site- VERY easy to develop a Thing for the Little Guys...

I did not know about your situation. I knew you were gone for a long period. Hope all is good now. The little guys are fun. :-)

If anyone wants the Sony KVX 370 service manual, its available at my Resources page for free.

https://visions4netjournal.com/resources/

No Problemo..I ACTUALLY kinda ENJOYED the stroke, in a weird way...I had the whole summer off, my Dad was actually NICE to me, for a change-, I'd go up to women that I had NO Idea who they were, but would grin at 'em & go-"Gimme a Hug ! I hadda Stroke ! Got a LOT of hugs, & ginormous grins- Helped that it made me a bit unsteady on me feet- & I could do a KILLER Ozzie Osbourne imitation. I'd proposition the pretty gals in the office, then claim to get MAD at "Mr Stroke", who I claimed had REALLY said stuff.Worst aftereffect is still that I'm not in complete control of me "Downstairs"-I feel like they installed Saturn 5 rocket motor in me Bum, but didn't give me the Keys to th damthing.. A LOT of how yr life is gonna be after you've had a Stroke is entirely up to you--I decided that I had had a Stroke, but the Stroke didn't have ME... IF they throw lemons atcha, screw "em...Pick up the lemons, get some ice water, sugar,& make yrself a big mess of Lemonade....Obviously, there's a lot more to it than THAT, but that is at least something you can aim for...

Wow this thread took an interesting turn while I was gone lol. I'm glad everyone is doing well. Anyways here is where I am at. Ive had a look through the service manual and it has pretty much been useless to me at this point. It seems to be bore geared towards dialing in the thing rather than diagnosing issues. Unless i'm missing something. I guess what I am loking for is some type of pin out that tells me what voltages I should be getting on each pin so I can find whats incorrect and trace the problem back from there. I mean it could be as simple as the power button not working but I need to know if it is even getting power there. Any suggestions?

Any chips that were not model specific should have datasheets out on the web that can be found by searching 'part number data sheet'. Many of those data sheets have application examples and pin voltages.

Perfect that should get me started.