Scored a 1947'Tele-Tone TV-208,SuitCase portable
 

Hey Guys,
a barn find,1947'Tele-Tone Tv,model TV-208 SUITCASE portable
In complete but very rough condition here in the upstate South Carolina
It's has a 7JP4 CRT,but don't have an adapter for my Sencore CR-161
Tester to see if it still has life left in it
I've heard you use test clip on these odd ball tube
Also need a Schematic for it too and yes the pins are very loose
On the CRTs base it I'm scared to move the base!,needs to be re soldered
Does any else here own one
It's a series string set NO POWER TRANNY TO WORRY ABOUT!

Not to buzzkill, but that's a 1949 TV. Incidentally,
:worthless

Nice find. I have a TV220 which is pretty close. You can check the 7JP4 filament continuity with an ohmmeter or apply 6.3 vac and look for a glow. Filament is pins 1 & 14.
I think I'd prefer a power tranny - less chance of the tube filaments burning out.

Also some posting tips(so folks can read and actually understand what you type). First this is a computer not a typewriter DO NOT hit enter when the line you are typing approaches the right edge of the text box, and instead continue to type. The computer will drop you to the next line on it's own when you reach the edge, and it will keep you from having
a sentence that should
fit on one line get divided
into several like this here
sentence I wrote to illustrate
how annoying it is to read.

Also a sentence begins with a capital AND ends with a period(exclamation or question marks are also acceptable if not over used), and words in the middle of a sentence should not be capitalized unless they are a proper noun, acronym, or you put a word in CAPITAL letters to emphasize it's importance.

I want to help you with your set, but there are so many ways to interpret what you typed that any advice I could give would most likely be based upon a misinterpretation of what you wrote, and thus be of no value to you.

You can download the Sams service manual for the Tele-Tone TV-208 from the ETF schematic archive:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_sc...s_postwar.html

Resoldering CRT base pins usually isn't difficult. Heat the pin and wick a little extra solder into the end if needed. Everyone seems to have a different favorite glue for re-securing tube bases. Since so many of them seem to work, perhaps the type isn't critical. I prefer something like sensor-safe RTV, which has a little flexibility.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

You know, Jody is excited about what he found and what does he get? Raked over the coals over spelling and grammatical errors. It doesn't seem to bother anybody else so,
if you don't like the way it's typed
and the working and spelling is not
up to your lofty standards:
Don't read it.

I second what ggregg said. The reason we post on here is because we all have been bit by this rare bug and usually aren't surrounded by people that understand our passion. (certainly my wife isn't going to share my excitement when I bring home a new "treasure"). I enjoy posting finds and seeing that it excites other people too as well as all the information that you will gain about it from the kind people on this forum. Perhaps if we have advice to give to people we can do it in a kinder way.

Good luck with your new set 47'Plymouth! Look forward to hearing more about it.

Actually the TV-208 was made in 1949.

I wonder what they watched on this set? We didn't have TV until WBTV in Charlotte came on in 1949 in our area.

Dunno about 4 or 7, but 13 in Asheville hit the air in 1954.

Oh yes, congratulations on your find!!

Edit: Just saw Steve's comment about the age of this set.

Good for you '47!

Well I think you should Skip the dam tube tester,
Plug the dam thing in, turn it on, and see what it does,
and if it needs a new transmission I bet someone knows where to git one.....

Good Luck ! ! !

That set isn't likely to do anything until you replace the electrolytic capacitors (at least), but at least you don't have to worry about frying a power transformer.

I suspect the electronic design is fairly conventional for a 7-inch TV of that vintage. In this section of my website you'll find restoration articles for other 7-inch TVs (Admiral, Hallicrafters, Motorola, National):

http://antiqueradio.org/televisions.htm

None of those is identical to yours, but if you skim a couple of the articles you'll get an idea what it usually takes to get one of those running.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Im with you boys. This is suppost to be a fun hobby, and to help others. Not to bust BALLS over minor Shit.

Ya Done GREAT !

I did not "bust BALLS" I'm trying to help him make his posts easier to understand so he does not have to waste his time clarifying his questions or statements. I want to help him and a grammar lesson seemed like the biggest help I could readily give.

Ggreg is full of Sh!t. He screwed me over some time ago and ever since I had the GALL to call him out on it he has taken every possible chance to slander and pick fights with me (even now long after I have tried to put it behind me and not do the same SH!T to him). I think he should do exactly what he once advised me to do, namely "Get Stuffed".

I've stopped being as petty to you Ggreg as you STILL are to me; It is time you started acting like an adult and quit trying to insult and pick fights with me, that is if you are actually mature enough to do so.

Tom, you not only posted like a dick, you happen to live in a great big huge glass house on the very issue you were trying to "help" with--so dickishly. Own it.

Come on, guys...Let's all kinda COOL IT, shall we ?

Tom thinks I stole a set out from under his nose when I actually made a deal to buy it from another collector who had already locked up the sale. He called and offered it to me and I accepted. That's it. Tom hadn't even contacted the seller yet. I've explained this situation at least three times, he won't believe it, so it is what it is.

You had no reason to respond to the OP like that. These posts are not written just for your consideration. Jody had plenty of responses from the regulars around here with positive comments and helpful tips while you say you can't help until the way the post is written meets your standards. I say if that's the case, don't respond. If you call that an attack, so be it, but I will always stick up for someone if I feel it is warranted. No need for the response you gave. Your true colors came through in your second comments which is too bad because you are very smart and have experience well beyond your years. As far as going after you goes, anyone who has read the prior posts can see I was just defending myself, which I will continue to do, if necessary.

I have no problem reading the OP, but then again my brain is wired a little goofy - sometimes I catch myself typing sentences backwards. At any rate, I believe the burden should fall on the person reading the individuals post. We all need to try to read each other within the context of our hobby. IMO it's actually a very good mental exercise learning to decipher different peoples short hand.

One the other hand Tom may be suffering from end of semester trauma. Things can get pretty intense when test grades are on the line. At least I think he's still in college.

Well, maybe '47 will try again, post his opening post on another thread, start fresh, and those who wish to respond in a positive way will do so, and he can get answers to questions he has, and be accepted, welcomed, and kinda forget about this wrong turn here.......

Gee whizzz
Just found tv and started a fight instead!,boy did I walk into a minefield
Or what?

Don't pay 'em any mind...

:thmbsp: Just keep posting about your TV and do it in the way that is most comfortable for you . Folks who want to understand your posts , will .

why on earth is this a issue, i suppose if this was a book club or something it might be an issue. most of the time when someone post a subject there just to say whats on there mind about a tv , or a problem there having . not to stop and make sure everything is writen out perfectly, they just want to make a statement ,and sometimes there already frustrated ,or excited about a cool find, spelling is not on a person's mind ,if you can read a text now days from people your doing pretty good. i have seen people leave out complete words, or hit the wrong key on the keypad , changing a word completely but use common sense you know what there trying to say. dont swet the little things in life .

Very true, this is not a literary forum....

Plus one. I was about to comment as well. But it is still early and I just deleted what was going to say. You guys did a good job of it.

Now, lets see if we can continue!

Hello '47 Plymouth, I for one would be interested in reading more about your suitcase TV. Those don't seem to show up on ebay very often at all

Hi 47 PLYMOUTH,

Congratulations on your barn find these are great sets to work on. This is my first response in this forum so I hope I am getting this right. I own four of these and have restored two. One these sets I watch for 40 minutes twice a week with no problems the other sits pretty on a shelf. These were cheap dependable sets in there day. In your post you asked about service info this really depends on which 208 model you have there is the model 208TL 208TM 208TR the TL & TM use a rectangular plug to connect chassis together. The 208TR uses an octal style plug. 208TR uses different service info sams set 95 folder no 6 The TL & TM use sams set 90 folder 11 if you have model TL OR TM before you get to far into the restoration check the resistance readings on the ballast tube. The label with the model number is usually missing in these sets but, the model is often hand written on the cardboard where you adjust vertical and horizontal center on the back of set. I hope this helps.

ROY
TV'&MORE

It's a 208TR with a round plug!,is that an early production
Serial#379921 on the inside right a rubber stamp

Hi 47 PLYMOUTH the TR is a latter model than the TL & TM .The TR chassis was also used in firestone and slivertone models produced by Tele-Tone. Tele-Tone was known for using different chassis in same cabinet. This has often lead to confusion for those who are not familiar with these sets. Hope this helps.

Do you TV AND MORE
Have extra bottom chassis for this 208TR that you could spare
Due mine is RAT DAMAGED AND PEE RUSTED?,
This one sat to long in open shed!,the top chassis is not bad will clean nicely
With picture tube,just curious?

Some naval jelly and a coat or two of silver spray paint(perhaps with some filler between coats if pitted) could likely save that chassis bottom if it is not rusted through...

Depending on how bad the rust is , it may be practical to strip the entire chassis of all components , take Tom's naval jelly suggestion to it , and then after take a wire wheel in a small electric hand drill to it . Thing with the wire wheel method is , you must flush the chassis afterward with a non corrosive solvent to ensure every little wire that breaks off of the wire wheel is cleaned out . Painting the chassis , as Tom also said , would be a good option to hide any deep pitting . Then , using new tube sockets and such , rebuild the chassis .

Are we lucky enough that the lower chassis only contains the power supply and sweep circuits ? If so , it would likely be an easier rebuild than the tuning circuits , which as we know can get REAL touchy about the nuances of component placement .

Are you able to post photos of it ? If so , it would be great to see them .

I am not sure but, I think the plating on these sets may have been sub standard because I have seen very few that did not have some surface rust on the bottom chassis. The side chassis is usually reasonably clean. PM me and I will see if I can help with another chassis. Your chassis probably not pee rusted just regular rusted.