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panasonic travel tv 1 inch screen
does anyone know these little bw tv sets? just got one and appears it dont have horiz nor does it have crt heater. the hv it has but its 2kv so i dont know what it should be but it has that much. with the other little sets it was the horiz hold pot but not this one and im not sure where it gets the heater voltage from, im guessing from the flyback. if anyone knows these give me a shout.:D
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What is the model number?
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tr-1010p panasonic
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OK - now I know what to tell you. This is the worst model of the Travelvision line - it is going to need a complete recap of all the electrolytic capacitors. You also need to see how bad they leaked, and how much damage has been done to the very fragile traces on the circuit boards. Also, the ribbon cable portion of the circuit boards are very fragile, and tear very easily.
Good luck! |
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are there any issues with any of the ICS that you know of ?
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Why dont you run over that with the lawnmower and ill send you a watchman. I have a few floating around here somewhere with spots teams logos printed on them. :boring:
What am I ever going to do with all this junk! You can get a BT modulator going on a good homemade antenna and take the micro tv outside when you have your ciggyclogger. :smoke: I get 500' of coverage easy with my modulator and antenna on a watchman.:banana: |
Anybody know if the color version, CT-101, had similar problems ? For it to be a "Flagship" type of product, they sure were cussedly "Cheap"...You'd THINK they woulda spent more than 15 cents on the cabinet...Seems like I spent $350 in '84 on mine...Had the local hdware store order it up special...Got LOTS of Fisheyes, too..."You want THAT ?!?..For the same money, I can get you a 27" REAL TV.."
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The IC chips generally do not fail, but they could be damaged from leaking electrolyte from the caps - if they are not corroded, then they should be OK. Green corrosion on the capacitor leads is 1 sign that the caps are defective. A complete recap should bring the TV back to life, if all the circuit board traces are not compromised - if they are, then they need to be repaired. An ESR meter would be very helpful if you do not intend to replace any capacitor that does not look physically damaged - they most likely will be electrically damaged.
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The small stuff just isnt real practical sense the analog shutdown. Ohh and my eyes suck so that really makes them pointless. Ill look around here when I get some time and Ill give timmy first shot sense he seems to like tvs that require B&D to get working. I do like and have several restored 60s vintage small metal sony sets. Those are super cool. |
ctc17 - Thanks. Of course Timmy should have first choice.
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Yup...the 1010 is deffinately gonna be a project.
I have two of those now...."in a basket". I ended up tearing the flexi circuit and had to mess with the connections on both sides of that small rigid ribbon cable. I'd had the original set since new, and had nursed it back once from a loss of vertical. Now it's just a basket case since it lost all signs of having a tuner one day and I was only making it WORSE getting into it. I have it and a "parts set" that showed up doing NOTHING...both in a little Kleenex box coffin. Decided to just pay attention to keeping the 1020,1030 and CT101 up and running. The 101 DOES have a terribly creaky case...and always appears to just not be right, but that set has not ever given me drama. |
well i capped the section that runs verticle, horizontal, hv, and still no horiz deflection or crt heater voltage. i applied 3v to the crt heater and it glows so thats ok so now i will change the horiz deflection controller ic. got nothing to loose but time. although it does have some hv, 2kv but dont know what its supposed to be, i would think it wont be much more for a 1 inch crt.
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With no horizontal....I'm surprised you have HV (and 2K on a 1" set sounds about right if I had to just guess). I forgot who, but someone around here was floating around with a SAMS or at least some schematics for this 1010 set. I almost asked him for a copy.
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well it looks to me that the crt heater wires come from the flyback so unlees the drive is low due to a bad ic, i dont know but it would be cool to get this thing running.
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Probly won't be too much drama as long as you don't hamfist the little flexi circuits like I did. This is NOT the sort of set to get impatient with (EXACTLY what I did when I got it to go and suddenly nothing when I put it together again). There IS a 1010 schematic or SAMs being offered by one of the users here. If I could remember who it was...he'd likely just email it to you.
I was gonna ask him for a copy...but it would likely lead me to get back into the little thing (I have TWO now...both not working), and it's not really a fun set to work on....but they are fun to have running :-) |
wow that would be great to have a copy to figure this out..:D
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Are you sure that all the traces are intact? It is very difficult to do a point to point continuity test on those circuit boards. I completely recapped the main board on mine, and was confident that I repaired all the traces, when the ribbon cable tore completely off - now it is living in a scrap parts junk drawer. I saved the CRT as part of my CRT collection. I bought a replacement unit in excellent physical condition, but not working condition, as a placeholder for my collection. I will not be attempting to repair another 1 of these again.
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Hi to All,
I proposed the 1010 manual to Aibopet - no reply. For those you want it, give me your Mail by PM. File is a 4 meg pdf. Best Regards jhalphen Paris/France |
:D:D
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Its the challenge of fixing the crap more than anything, im like that too. I only have fun disposing of these modern plastic sets I still find 1-2 of each week. I would love to see some pictures of the inside of the set you are working on. |
na ok i wont part with the maggie, but this is what im working on and its like brain surgery so small but i think i know whats wrong here. and i did get the schematic from the other member and its a big help. ill know today if its a done fixed deal. and much to my surprise this crt requires 4700kv for proper operation which seems like alot for this size crt,wow.
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well i got the horiz deflection running and got 4700kv at the crt and 550 volts for focus only now i dont have verticle all i have is a line across the screen but i think i damaged the verticle deflection processor by probing and i think i touched 2 terminals and shorted it or the short was there when the diode went bad and now it shows since the horiz is running . now the verticle ic gets hot on the ic where there is voltage at the pin that should not have what it does. i subbed the focus diode for one i have but im going to put a 1n4007 which i think is 1000v 1a. this circuit supplys alot more then i thought being this diode was bad i had nothing. i located an electronics joint in la that has this verticle ic so i might as well just do it and get it over with. for anyone that wants to work on these little sets had better think twice because it is extremly difficult to get around inside without any wires breaking off or trying not to move the ribbons around. the ribbon already broke and i repaired it.
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Let's face it- Americans, w/our ham-hock sized hands, just AREN'T sposed to be able to work on these tiny things..ESPECIALLY if you're like Moi, have had a Stroke, & have a good deal of Good Ol' Unca Arthur in yer hands to boot...(grin)
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lmao, yea i am an auto tech and big hands dont go with this little stuff.
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This model is so prevalent on EBay, it's far easier and cheaper to get a working model on EBay. Of course I appreciate the fascination, challenge and couriosty to dig into the works of these tiny televisions. Just ask the seller the apprioate questions to verify the set is working.
I say this with the understanding that I pocess virtually no skills in television repair. :-) |
I have TWO of these to repair...but no longer wanna bother with 'em since I have a running 1020, 1030 and CT101.
I didn't even wanna bother the guy offering the 1010 schematics....or I'd try to get back into the 1010 and then have to repair the ribbon cables as well as whatever had happened to them in the first place. I do have the small sets to "wow" anyone if need be. That 1030 is actually QUITE a handsome little set...and is smaller than ALL the other Travelvision sets. |
but it would be a good thing to know how to fix them should they take a dump, afterall they are old and i think that whatever kind of vintage tv you may have its always a good idea to know how to fix them. and the ribbon is not all that bad to fix as mine tore in 2.
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Did the diode replacement correct the horizontal, or did you replace the AN5750 too?
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Dunno.....ALL of the little TRs use the same one with the funny little squared off tip. I thought it was 7.5v unit....but could be entirely wrong. Almost positive it is NOT 12vdc though...or I would not have gone through the trouble to find the exact one when I needed one. If you are using a 12v one.....you are likely gonna cook the regulator. The battery pack is 4 x AA size batteries...so the set likely runs at 6v internally without looking at a schematic, so I'm still guessing the wall wart is gonna be 7.5vdc.
UPDATE: Found one of mine specific to the set. It's part number (Panasonic) TY-AC39P Input is AC 120V 60Hz 55mA Output is 11.45vdc (positive tip) as measured by a Fluke meter (no load) There is no output specs printed on the outside of it. I even found a second one that is running my 1020....same exact model and specs. Looks like all three of the little TR series use the exact same one. I don't have the CT101 down here at home to look at (It's up at my Dad's house) |
well here it is i still got a line across the screen and checked all voltages and seem just about right on and still cant figure why i just have a line. replaced both horiz and verticle ics and made no difference at all. this is baffling to me finding nothing else wrong but i know there is something. caps were changed checked diodes only to fine the one, i also took off some resistors and transistors to check out of the circuit and everything checks ok. and yes these components are SMD, chips very difficult to see let alone remove and put back. did anyone who reads this post have any info as to where to go from here with this problem. it seems to be a common problem with these little sets. HELP.........
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well this update means i gave up on this tr 1010p, checked everything and waisted to much time. i got another one, tr1020 with the radio and it had the same line across the screen but i fixed this one and it works great. the circuit board is different and i think for the worse, anyway caps and ics were all loose all had to be resoldered and 2 breaks in the ribbon which i had to put 2 jumpers. it looks like vibration did all this from years of bumping around.
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Good job with the TR-1020p. Be aware that they are almost as bad as the TR-1010p electronically. You have now officially been inducted into the "TR-1010p Kicked Our Ass Club"!
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