Picked up another rectangular tube
 

Saw this and fell in love with the design. It's front POTs all need deoxit, highly sensitive or "stuck" but do turn after some working then start functioning too..

It looks like the tube works too, just needs a tad more on the red drive, as grey is "ever so slightly green". But otherwise seemed to work.

I know nothing about this TV though, so any information would be great.

Needs cleaning.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0347.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0348.jpg

The manufacturer date is worn out and can't be read, but this TV does appear to be solid state mostly, only seeming to possibly have a tube in the HV stage, judging by looking through the cracks..

Oooh, and just noticed, Made in the USA! Sweeeeeet!

That TV is from the '84-'86 time period and is 100% solid state. If you plan on using this TV, you might want to obtain a spare flyback transformer for it. The flyback in these sets was bad about suddenly blowing up and causing a major odor. I've also seen a fair amount of Samsung's with weak CRT's. Other than the flyback blowing up, the chassis was fairly reliable.

That's not encouraging. :( It seemed to work fine when it turned on, no odor and was a bright picture.

I'll take it apart later and do a cleaning and get a picture of it inside. It's HV section had a large metal shield, but it may just be a large heat sink.

When it was on, it did have excessive pin-cussion, bowing out on the sides. How can that be fixed?

Now when you say blow up, how bad? I have a tendency to fall asleep with the tv on.

I actually saw one of these blow up once.

A. TV was working fine.
B. All of a sudden, it lost horizontal sync and the picture pulled in from the sides.
C. A few seconds later, I heard a loud BANG followed by smoke and a severe odor.

When I opened the set, the flyback had a huge crack all the way around the case with little pieces of it's internal copper windings hanging out the side.

When the flyback shorted and blew up, it took the horizontal output transistor, the B+ regulator, and the fuses with it.

Sometimes, they will develop a hairline crack in the case. When this happens, HV leaks out and can arc to the metal heatsink. Other times, the area around the crack will carbonize and the transformer will burn, stink, and smoke until the power is killed.

Other times, the flyback will create no fourth of July exhibit or show any signs of it being defective. It will simply short and the HOT will blow before it has time to blow up.

What I described is not limited to Samsung TV's. I've seen it happen alot with Goldstar, Panasonic/Quasar, KTV, Sampo, Emerson, AOC, Kawasho, and other "low end" brands of TV's from the '80's and early '90's.


And, you'll want to be careful when buying a new flyback. It's best to stick with an OEM part, when available. I you have to go with a generic brand, HR-Diemen are generally the best. Try to stay away from "no name" generic brands that are sold ultra cheap from discount parts houses. I've had those blow up within hours of installing them. So, it's best to spend a little more and get a reliable part. I've had more than my share of cheap knock-off parts that either failed to function at all; or, died shortly after installation.

I ran it for some time, and it didn't seem to happen.. It doesn't happen to them all does it? I paid $15, so it's not a huge loss, but it'd suck though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0352.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0354.jpg

The chroma isn't centered, it's shifted just a tad, but that's ok. But the only big issue I'm seeing, is that the picture every once in a while will flash brighter on a single interlaced field.. I don't know if it's happening from the flaky POTs on front, or if it's just picking up interference from the RF.

So, I'm afraid to even use this TV now. I think perhaps I'll put it to the side as a backup TV or something.

I wouldn't worry about it. Chances are good that the flyback has already been replaced at some point. I don't know where you're located; but, I live in the deep south where it's very hot & humid. It seems that those conditions had a lot to do with flyback failures.

I'm in Orlando FL, and it doesn't appear the flyback was ever touched.

So after some examination of this TV, it has a slight flicker of it's brightness. Not noticeable on bright screens, and only when it's a dark grey screen.

It also has this weird glowing at the top left corner of the screen. It glows there for some reason, even with the brightness turned down, but only when the contrast is turned up.

Dude I think the Flyback is a concern. When I was looking inside the vents trying to see if I can see any broken caps for the flickering brightness, I can hear tiny little static sounds that are constantly going.

This is worrying me.. What should I start looking for?

EDIT: Hmm this is odd, I took the TV apart and guess what, it's working fine now, no crackling or flickering. Wha?

EDIT2: When it heated back up while open it started doing it again. Could it be excessive dust?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0358.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0359.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0360.jpg

In the last picture, did you look at the area that looks like it got hot. Maybe the PC board needs soldering below that spot.

What area? I'm not seeing it.

Third picture, PC board top view. Close to R514. Check the soldered side.

It looked fine to me. Just checked when cleaning the tv.

I'm running it now to warm it up since cleaning it. I did notice a fuses solder joint was rusted so I reflowed it. I didn't have solder with me though so I reflowed what was there. Someone stole my role of solder.

you know I vacuum out all the dust in my old transistor sets like that one each year before the summer humidity, especially around the flyback. Use vacuum & paint brush to brush off the dust. pc board too, tube, and tube socket and the electronics on the tube socket too. It looks very clean around r-514, looks like the flyback has not been touched in my opinion. I bet it will run for years, keep it dust free, and keep the brightness below half to keep the tube from over driving and make it last longer. Nice set. I have a few mid 80's Sharp sets they are really good sets.

Hope it lasts. :P

This is as good as I could clean it, using a paint brush.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0366.jpg

Not perfect but better than before..

EDIT: The picture still flickers in the dark regions.. Argh! I can't think of what it could be

Cold solder joints have always plagued PCBs. Touching up the soldering might help if that is the issue.

I really think it is a cold solder joint.. Problem is, I can't find which one, and I don't have the patience to do every single one.

Anyone in Florida willing to help me out?

The crackling does appear to be gone though..

Ok, so since cleaning, the brightness itself isn't going crazy anymore, and the crackling sound has gotten very quiet now (i can still faintly hear it but not as bad).

But, the picture still occasionally has a bright flash in certain horizontal parts of the picture. It's different every time. This only occurs when it warms up though, not when cold.

Earlier I tried tapping parts of the board with a stick but it seemed to have no affect in showing any parts with cold solder joints.

I managed to capture the flicker on video via my iPhone and this is how fast it flashes and it does this as often as every 8 seconds. Each picture is a frame in the video, so at 30fps, it was only 2 frames it showed up.

First frame is before the flash even appears.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Flicker1/1.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Flicker1/2.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Flicker1/3.png

EDIT: I take that back. It's crackling in the back again. It's just so hard to hear it though, has to be a quiet room, but it does do it, and now the flickering is once every couple seconds..

Here's a recording of the crackling.

http://www.mediafire.com/?yhz99rx9qr7pwqg

It seems to correspond to the flashing on the TV. The louder the crackle, the more flashing.

I didn't have solder with me though so I reflowed what was there. Someone stole my role of solder.[/QUOTE]

For what that stuff costs today, you have to keep it in a safe.:tears:

Especially my non-lead free solder. I don't like lead free solder..

I made a video btw showing the flashing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VU97yfXScE

Hopefully this can be easily solved, but if not, what kind of flyback can I install in it? I can't find any OEM flybacks.

Anyone in Florida willing to help me out? I just don't have time to do this.

I'll buy you lunch, a good lunch..

Also, is it possible, that the flybacks anode wire, running across the back of the CRT resting on the aquadag coating, like it is in the pics, be causing this whole problem? Should it be standed off? If so, where can I get those spacer things I see on newer CRT's.

Can you tell where the arcing is coming from? Flyback?Maybe the anode cap perhaps?Could even be bad solder joints arcing underneath around the flyback. Could even be in between the flyback and the pcb.:scratch2:Can you pull the board and get better pics of the flyback area?

Thats the problem, I can't tell where the arcing is coming from. I'll try to get better pics when I have it opened next.

OK here you go. I also installed some spacers on the anode wire since I was concerned about how it was just riding along the aquadag.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...on/TV%20Board/

I also accidentally broke off a corner of the board (and I feel like CRAP about that, I hadn't noticed when I was holding the board the corner fell into a slot on the back cover), but it appears to still be working fine despite that broken corner.

EDIT: Oh, and it's flyback transformer is a FCM-2015AL.. I see only one on eBay that claims "Genuine" but I don't have any way to tell if it IS genuine.

EDIT: With standoffs, still doing it when warmed up.. I'm going to get a rubber tube and try to "listen" for where this crackle is, cause it is related to the flashing.. The crackling comes when the flashing does.

I have a portable Samsung from around this era, and I notice the flyback transformer is a bit loud, like it's about to go Kaboom! I had a quasar from the early 80s go up like fireworks back in the early 90s. We were watching it, all of a sudden we heard a loud bang (Like lighting a bottle rocket fire cracker off), picture went blank and we smelled this odd odor..

Well here's the weird thing, that crackling I'm hearing, it is not coming from within the flyback. I used my bamboo tipped stethoscope, and I can hear the ticking from the high voltage, but not that random crackling chatter. So it's coming from somewhere else..

I have found the location of the crackling!

I was only probing one part of the flyback, but not other parts, then I found it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...blecrackle.jpg

Sooooooo, flyback?

Could be a internal connection going bad?:scratch2:

I think so..

I cleaned the flyback even more, and it exposed this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_0403.jpg

Yep, it's cracking and falling apart...

So I need a new one.. Anyone have a FCM-2015AL?

For safety reasons, this TV has been set aside and im using my hybrid set again.

http://www.acme-sales.net/portal.php?country=USA

local orlando too

Are they going to be reliable? I want to go by what radiotvnut said about cheap ones.

I found a HR one, but it's nearly 33 dollars and not even in America.

If this one at ACME works then I'll use that, I just don't want flybacks blowing up when watching TV.

Yeah, i would say so!It's just a matter of time when it starts arcing externally....:yes:
I dunno if you tried this already,but have the set on with the back off in a dark room and see if you can see it arcing?:scratch2:

I have no idea, I would recommend not getting it then.

I did try it on with the lights off, but saw nothing. It took my hearing bamboo stick to hear it even coming from the flyback at the back section.

Dave, I contacted that company via Email, I'm gonna see if they will let me come and see the flyback in person..

Your only choices may be the HR or the cheap one. The demand for flyback transformers has taken a nosedive, since the DTV switch; and, they are somewhat harder to find than they were just a few years ago. I think I ordered a flyback from that Acme outfit and it worked OK; but, I can't speak for how this one would work in your TV.

The ones I had the most trouble with came from a place called Dalbani. I got one generic RCA flyback from Tritronics that blew up within a few hours. The generic looked nothing like the original and it was a real pain getting the pins to line up with the holes on the PC board.

Ill probably do the acme one then. I still want to see their flyback first though. Some of the cheap ones dont have an anode wire long enough for this tv.

Hope everything works out for you! Good luck!:thmbsp: