Purchased a 1976 Magnavox Console (edit)
 

There's a 1976 built SS Magnavox 25" floor model sitting in one of the local thrifts here.

It's very much an entry level set with a Particle Board cabinet and simulated wood vinyl covering, metal brackets in the corners for decoration (though they may actually help hold the cabinet together) rotary tuned UHF & VHF, with a V-Matic Auto Color button, Price $5.00

Set looks to be in very good shape but I didn't plug it in, didn't have my Van either or I might have grabbed it for fun.

Any interest? It'll no doubt still be there tomorrow and I'll probably still be off work recovering from the Flu.

It likely uses the T995 chassis; which, was likely the best chassis built by Magnavox. And, it will use a delta gun CRT. It's not a Zenith or RCA; but, it will make a good picture and, for $5, I'd get it if for no other reason than to save the CRT.

Magnavox's last good one
 

Very good set, still built in the Ft Wayne Indiana plant on Bueter road- I had one with the "touch-tune" system, the first keypad-controlled tuner. Was my main set for 17 years:yes:after I replaced the CRT. Very true RAdioTV nut , it was not quite a Zenith in the luminance/color department, but convergence and purity were spot-on.

I saw only a few issues with these sets when I carried MAG's module caddies:- cold solder joints, dirty module connectors and the "critical cap" which limits collector-emitter pulse amplitude across the horiz out transisitor, controlling HV. The same issues plagued the T809 and T815 chassis later on, even more so. I can still remember the module numbers, talk about wasted memory space....:sigh:

I don't think you can get those 4-lead caps anymore. A few years ago, I had a 19"
T809 come in with a shorted saftey cap and I replaced it with a regular HV orange drop cap. I've also seen the ends blow off of them. When that happens, you'd better hope the internal interlock connection inside the cap breaks open or the HV will skyrocket and blow the neck off the CRT.

If I find another Magnavox with that cap, it will be replaced even if it still functions.

Well I decided to go by again and check it out closer.

I managed to scrounge up an extension cord, plugged it in, powered it on, Sound immediately, Raster about 10 seconds later, all colors even and very strong!
Took it for $5.

After getting it home I partly removed the back to have a peek inside, very nicely built chassis, look at that industrial looking motor Starting? capacitor?!:wtf: That is OEM BTW.

Another thing about it is it's practically pristine inside, almost no dust, looks quite a bit like some of those NOS sets we've seen, this thing either came from the cleanest house in the world or it's very low hours.
I can practically smell the Bicentennial in this one (built 4/76)

I've posted the CRT number, is that a useful one?

I haven't hooked up a signal to it but I'm pretty certain it'll work OK.

It almost seems a shame to part this one out, it's so unbelievably clean inside, the outside isn't bad either, the top has some scruffing from stuff being slid around but it's plastic veneer so it could probably be cleaned and polished right out.

It is up for grabs to any collector who would give it a good home, second on the list would be a collector who needs a good tube or chassis for a better set.

Well phooey, you can't see that big Capacitor in my pictures but it's there, near the power supply, Filter perhaps?.

i have this same chassis in my bicentennial magnavox.i had to replace that cap too.these sets have a very fine picture and they are well built,rivaling the rca sets of that era.not a zenith chromacolor but still a very good set from the 70s.mine is high end but the chassis and crt are the same in your set.should be a good performer for you

That cap is used in the power supply as part of the voltage regulating power transformer. It's a constant voltage power transformer.

I've seen that cap/transformer arrangement in Zenith, Sylvania, GE, Wells-Gardner, and other brands from the mid-to-late '70's. I've seem them short in Zenith CCII sets.

I'm glad you were able to get that set.

Here are some pics of it operating.
I did a very quick touch up of the Grey scale and convergence.

That thing looks great, I think it would be a shame to part it out. I hope someone can give it a new home.

The T995 chassis had a lot ground locations that had to be resoldered. It would effect the convergence and other areas. It had such a large mother board, that flexing the chassis would crack the grounds loose.

indeed that set looks like a keeper, rare to find one in such good shape. I too hope it finds a good home intact. from the looks of it I would guess a low hours set from the lack of attracted dust (or a very good house keeper).

those power supplies with constant voltage PT are nice. My zenith uses one as well. It has a VERY broad operating AC voltage, and its NOT solid state regulated (at least on the 25CD56 zenith). From what I understand its a very loosely coupled trans that is run in saturation contstantly (at least within designed input voltages). the output is more square wave than sine. Also the loose coupling results in lower current flow incase something does short out. In the case of the zenith IIRC reading about it, the current was limited to about twice the normal current flow in case of a short circuit. The trans runs hot by design. The motor starting cap can be a problem, feel it and see if its getting hot. I had a sylvania with that setup, it would pop the circuit breaker after running for a few min. That cap was very hot by then. I prefer the simplicity of that over the SS regulated power supplies found on the later model (zenith that is). I remember running it on a variac from 90v to 130v with no noticeable change in vert height or horz pullin.

Zenith used that design thru the first generation system 3's. Beginning with the 9-160 module sets, they dropped the transformer. Everybody figured out it was cheaper to use solid state regulation instead of using a large transformer.

Some of the solid state switching power supplies in TV's could be difficult to work on. The easiest SS power supplies in TV's to troubleshoot were the sets that used an
STR30xxx regulator IC.

I moved the posts about the 1981 Magnavox to a separate thread in this forum, please post any new info to that thread here:

http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=254034

Thank you.

Looking for parts i picked up a 1977 model with a digital tuner. T995 will not come on at all. Where do i look first?

Is that a "Touch-tune" and was it made in Fort Wayne?

I had one of those as my living room set for 18 years after I replaced the CRT in 1985! I still have the entire chassis, tuner and remote.

You need to start buy looking for the power relay on the remote chassis and jump across the contacts. That will eliminate much stuff.

t995
 

It is a touch tune but was made in tenessee. What part usually goes bad in tuner power supply? Was made may 1977.Model RH4668

I looked over the tuner and someone has spilled coffee on a third of the unit. I am thinking it will have to be replaced. I tried cleaning but it looks like some of the ics are gone.

You should start a new thread for this set in the Rectangular Solid State Forum, it'll get more response than posting in an old thread about a different set.

Does anyone have parts for a T995 chassis?

DavGoodlin i could use the tuner and remote parts. Please let me know if you would like to sell them.

Yes, Firebird the tuner and remote are good to go. It was made in Sept 1977 in Indiana, NAP must have closed the plant right after that when they moved to Tennessee and continued building the same good (at that time) stuff.

The chassis has a video issue that is NOT solder-related. That and a failing CRT caused me to junk this after 18 years in my living room(s):tears), I do not foresee getting another Mag like this, as I have narrowed focus to older stuff 'cuz I like tubes so much (plus I have a ton of them:D)

PM me with your location.

I sent an email. I need to know how to handle the shipping. I think i may need the chassis too.

Dave we have sound, but no picture.

Clicks off after 20 seconds. Picture tube does not light up.

Where do i look?

How come if you are not an old member your problem does not receive any attention?

Do you mean the the CRT heater doesn't light up or, no raster on the screen? I don't remember if the CRT has a fuse like the Zeniths have.
Please don't think of us as slighting you, but we have to remember what happened many years ago. The last time I worked on one of these was 1991. :yes:

No crt heater.

I think the CRT heater was from a 1 or 2 turn winding on the flyback. No horizontal sweep, no CRT heater. Check horizontal drive and output transistor. Check all solder connections on the mother board, especially where modules plug in.

There is a transformer on the horizontal module. I think it is bad. Where can i get a replacement transformer.

Pulled the service info today and the CRT heater is from a 6.3 volt winding on T1. P22 pins 11 and 13 go to the filament of the CRT. F1 is a 2 amp slow blow fuse to protect the CRT filament. So, the fuse, power transformer, and CRT are the main suspects. Also any connections such as P22 and J22 on the CRT board. P22 and F1 are located on the interconnect board. If the CRT doesn't light up nothing else matters. The transformer on the horiz. Module is likely for the oscillator or could be to couple the driver to the output transistor. I am not looking at actual module schematic only the block diagram and signal flow. Normally if that were bad you just replace the module.