Zenith G2439RZ "Monroe" restoration
 

I finally got my first Zenith porthole set :D It's a Zenith G2439RZ aka "Monroe" with a dual 24G24/24G26 chassis and 16EP4A CRT.
It's built like a tank and is quite heavy. Definitely the heaviest non-combo set I have.

Here it is arriving on my back porch. (I removed the door pull handles so I could lay it face down).
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5223/...cc47f42a_z.jpg

There's some finish loss on top, but the underlying veneer is fine. Also a strip on one door is damaged.
It looks like the whole strip could be pulled off and replaced. otherwise just the usual nicks, dings and chipped veneer along the bottom.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5145/...3d20bc5d_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5266/...9b1a08a7_z.jpg

The original back is in great condition.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/...f1c7638e_z.jpg

I'm not sure if the right pull is bent or intentional. If it is bent, I'd expect there to be some signs of distress :scratch2:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5261/...c8367a60_z.jpg

Those doors did a nice job of protecting and preserving the screen and controls.
I'm also not sure if the Horizontal Freq. control is missing it's knob or if it's supposed to be recessed :scratch2:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5221/...fe7ee5a3_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5107/...0ceed632_z.jpg

Looks Great. I had the same front pull knob condition on my set. Each one was bent to the side. I took each one and heated it on an open flame, from a gas stove being careful not to overheat and then gently sterightened each one out. Patients is the key. It's hard to describe the right temperature, certainly not red hot. In fact I never let it get anything close to red hot. I heated each one and then tried to bend it a little. I reheated a couple of time bending just a little each time. Both of mine were bent as much as your is on the right hand side. The one on your left looks good, correct. I think they are made of a pot metal type material which is notorious for snapping but if it"s heated first it becomes moderately pliable.

My set has the same knob set inside the control door as yours.. five. nothing on the Horiz Freq.

If it were me I wouldn't strip the top and refinish it. I would stain the bare spots with red mahogany until it looked like the rest of the top and then shoot it with simi gloss poly from a spray can until it matches. I have tried using my own spray equipment but didn't get very good results. The spray can has just the right nozzle and preasure to get a perfect finish. I'm sure that didn't happen by accident, it probably took some experimentation to get it just right so why try to reinvent the wheel. The rest of the cabinet looks really good. I would just go over the bare spots with the RM and rub it out. The missing piece on the door looks almost impossible to replace or repair. I would just stain the bare spot and forget it, it's not that noticable.

This is a nice looking set.:yes:

I noticed what looks like the power supply chassis below has a bit of surface rust. How do you clean the rust? And what shape are the legs and the veneer in?

It seems that most of these old sets will have been a some time relegated to a damp basement hence end up with rust and splitting/ peeling veneer at the base.

Thanks for all the great tips. I'm really glad I'm not missing any knobs. I'm tired of the endless knob quests :drool:

Here's a look inside. There is some evidence of repairs like a fairly modern blue electrolytic.

I'm gonna guess the "Z" on the CRT is for Zenith ?
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5230/...a00b0274_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5147/...d449be16_z.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5221/...e2970a55_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5024/...b9175bf5_z.jpg

It appears an old plate cap was ripped off and a wire spliced to a new one.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5227/...b00e5251_z.jpg

Ok, now for the bad news. The CRT is nearly dead :tears: At first there were no emissions so i cooked it for a few hours at 6.3 and later 7 VAC. That got it up from zero to 1/3 up the "bad" scale. I then tried the rejuvinate, auto-restore and manual restore functions on my Sencore CR70 as the manual instructs. Each operation gave a brief increase but then sank back down to the low reading. The life test stinks too.

So, I will restore it using a 5AXP4 on my workbench and hope I can squeeze some sort of picture out of the 16EP4A. Eventually, maybe I can score a better 16EP4 or get it rebuilt by the ETF.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5023/...e3452a0d_z.jpg

Thanks.

I'll use naval jelly on it. Probably several applications of a few hours to really get it all off. It should be easy to work on since it's small and unplugs from the top chassis.

The wood frame and legs are nice and solid. There is some veneer separation and loss around the base but it's not that bad. I have some scraps of mahogany veneer salvaged from another cabinet that should make good patches.

My model # 2438RZ1 chassis # 24G26 Porthole is practically identical to yours - down to the 16EP4A CRT.

Both chassis's in my TV were heavily rusted - yours looks like its in great shape.

I love these old Porthole TVs and look forward to reading about your restoration process.
I know you are going to do it right and I can pick up some more tips.

Carl

Me likey-But y'all know I have a SERIOUS "Jones" for a Zenith Porthole....

Knew you'd end up getting that!

I followed your whole restoration saga with great interest and have already started going through it again when I realized how similar it was.

I'm really happy this set has a "real" power transformer and parallel wired tubes rather than the hot series wired one that's so similar looking.

LOL - Thanks for the tip. I had my chance to get one with a BIN of $100 a couple years ago, but hesitated a couple minutes too long and have been kicking myself ever since. Now I can can finally let it go :)

What a nice set! Will look forward to reading about your restoration work on this. Hope you are able to repair the bad finish and wood damage rather than stripping. Interesting it has that newer capacitor. Wonder how long ago it was worked on? Sorry to hear the CRT is weak. Hope you can find another soon. That's a very handsome set!

Gilbert

Referring to your photo redisplayed below, I misplaced that light gray color piece at the slide switch:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5107/...0ceed632_z.jpg

Well actually, i did find it and wondered where it goes, and then later realized what it was for, but lost it. Its somewhere in my workshop. Be careful removing the chassis - twice I've pulled the main chassis forgetting to disconnect the slide switch ripping the wires off.

Are you going to refinish the bezels on the front?

Carl

Thanks for the tip :yes:

I don't think I'll refinish the bezels. The doors have protected them well.

Anyone know what the button at the top is for ? Does it allow you to remove the safety glass for cleaning ?

I saw this set on ebay and thought about making the drive from Pittsburgh to get it. I hope it goes well.

Nice find!, What is a collection without a porthole. Your set looks like the big sister (165sq in) to my Graemere (105sq in) the bad news, there is no cure for porthole fever, so make room for the next one. Some would walk a mile for camel, i will drive hundreds for a porthole.
As for the button at the top of the screen it is a trim adjustment for the built in antenna. The button would have served a more usefull porpose if it would allow a easy frontal safety glass removal.
Mike.

p/s i will do a post with pictures.

"there is no cure for porthole fever, so make room for the next one. Some would walk a mile for camel, i will drive hundreds for a porthole. " True. I am on the prowl for another porthole Zenith TV too. Please don't fish in my back yard :-)

We would love to see pictures of your Graemere model.

Carl

Hi Bob,

Nice set! I am glad that someone deserving that set like yourself is now the owner.

I have a 12" version of the same TV. I forget the model but I also have one of the two pull knobs bent on mine as well. Yes, they are made out of what dad called "Pot Metal" and will snap easily if one tries to bend it. I checked as well and the little knob situation is the same on my set, 5 with the Horizontal Freq having no knob. My cabinet is not perfect but won't need to be stripped. It will take some time until I get around to it because I have to clear out junk from this house and get ready for a move to Florida. I already have bought a house there so lots to do here.

I may have got my limit and for now am in a hot pursuit for a nice 721ts, Here are some pictures.
http://www.pbase.com/redraster/image/134477083.jpg


http://www.pbase.com/redraster/image/134477136.jpg


http://www.pbase.com/redraster/image/134477224.jpg


http://www.pbase.com/redraster/image/134477041.jpg


http://www.pbase.com/redraster/image/134476925.jpg

Nice portholes! I've bee looking for an RCA 721TS/CS for a while now too.

Bob,
You may have to consider converting that set to a glass CRT, 16DP4. That won't be easy, because there are a few tubes in the way. I used to know a guy with 3 of them. Or maybe a 16GP4, but that's a 70-degree tube. Maybe Moyers has a yoke for a '51 Zenith?

A good 16EP4 can be a real stinker to find.

Bandersen, how is the restoration on your Monroe Porthole coming along?
You got a nice looking TV. Cabinets of that vintage are exceptional.

Carl

Nice set Bob
Unfortunately in Italy the Portholes are extremely rare, much of there are imported from the U.S. :sigh:

I'm definitely open to subbing in a different CRT if I can score one. I don't have any other 16" circular CRTs at the moment.


Sorry, I haven't touched it yet. Actually, it's still out on the back porch. I have to finish off some other projects first and clear some room for it. Don't worry, I'll be sure to post plenty of details once I start on it.

Thanks. I live just a few miles from where this set was made and it still took me a few years to find one.

When buying a porthole zenith, better off with a 16gp4 chassis. This crt is much easier to find than the 16ep4 which is rare to find. Will keep my eyes open for you for this tube.

Thanks I really appreciate the effort. I'd be happy to get a good 16GP4 (or any other compatible CRT) as well. I would just need to modify the yoke as mentioned earlier.

I have a chance to get this RCA with a 16" metal CRT that I figure could be made to work in my porthole. I really hate to part out a nice set though.

Anyone interested in the RCA minus the CRT ?

http://images.craigslist.org/3nd3k03...101c751688.jpg

I just received a 16GP4 from captainmoody with strong emission and life test :D

I hope it won't be too difficult to make it work in this set.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3182/...e9bef722c4.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/...7800362f54.jpg

Here's a little update. I finally cleared a spot for this set and brought it inside :)
It's pretty darn heavy so I pulled both chassis first. Just as well since I've been curious about their condition. It also gave be a chance to tip it on it's side and put some felt pads on the feet.

It looks to be mostly original other than the flyback.
The sand coated power resistors are in miserable condition. Two have lost all their coating.

I found what looks like a broken dial cord. maybe that's for fine tuning ?
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6227/...b60025e0_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6033/...92449b17_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6171/...29507871_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6112/...754e8cf8_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6223/...7d667e8c_z.jpg

The electrolytic can ruptured and leaked all over.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6037/...c20c0994_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6158/...f640e963_z.jpg

Here it is next to my Motorola 12K2.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6049/...6e29e496_z.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6237/...c200766f_z.jpg


Finally, I picked up a porthole chassis with good 16EP4 at an estate sale recently :banana: I'll use that 16GP4 in an Admiral set.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6209/...504e400f_z.jpg
Potential new 16EP4 CRT and parts chassis

Here's the flyback in the spare chassis. It looks pretty bad too. I'm not sure if either is original or useable.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6202/...3dee2c32_z.jpg

Thanks for sharing all these pictures, I love looking at this stuff, especially when I should be working :nono: .

Bob, I have a 16WP4A free of charge if you want it. Tests new.

When your remove that 16EP4 picture tube, take note where a round cardboard insert goes. I'm not 100% sure where mine went and installed it in the back inside the Focus Coil. I wonder if it should have been inserted in the Yoke.

Can you verify this for me?

Thanks

Carl

Thanks for the offer. I checked the specs and it appears to be an all glass version of the 16GP4.
I only have one set that uses a 16GP4 and I now have 2 good spares for it so I'll pass. I'm sure someone else could use it ?

Sure, I'll definitely take photos as I remove the CRT.

Since I'm on the porthole bandwagon lately, let's finally dig into this puppy! Hey, it's only been 14 years.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f4615ab7_c.jpg

I'll start with the power supply.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2cc98908_c.jpg

What exactly defines a " porthole tv"?

Is it the round CRT? or something else?

Is the RCA 630TS one?
or the Maggy Brittany?
Is it something only given to the Zenith line? :D

'Porthole' is when the whole round face of the CRT is surrounded by a bezel (think boat window) vs a 'double D', where the top and bottom are hidden.

Exactly - fully round bezel. Here are some other brands.

Stromberg Carlson TC-10
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8fd0dc2b_z.jpg

Raytheon/Airline
https://live.staticflickr.com/5638/2...e77a625a_z.jpg

TeleTone
https://live.staticflickr.com/8228/8...978d2f53_z.jpg

Main filter cap has spewed it guts and will have to go. I started replacing parts then decided it was just too rusty to continue.
Instead, I drilled out the rivets and removed everything.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6858d2d7_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...be568b9d_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...edd27c05_c.jpg

Prepped for primer then Rustoleum specialty epoxy appliance paint.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bfdd585a_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...73a4f876_c.jpg

I repainted the power transformer too.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b4ac4d98_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fc179aa0_c.jpg

Ah, that's better :)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...700df6dc_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...49cb97a4_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4538ba51_c.jpg

Watched your YT video on this and commented. Beautiful work.

Thanks.
My plan is to try getting it running using the currently installed replacement flyback. Then, I'll try swapping in the original Zenith flyback from my spare parts chassis.

I already recoated it but have not tried it out yet.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bd9c592e_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7857f420_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b4507e3d_c.jpg

Finally getting back to this project.
Having an identical, all original parts chassis makes it much easier to work on.
Especially since Sams only published a schematic for it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...023b9149_c.jpg

There are two 4-section twist locs buried in the center of the chassis under the yoke support.
Really no room for adding terminal strips or cutting them open in place.
So, I took the time to disconnect and unmount them, cut them open and restuff.

I hope to power it up this weekend and see if that recoated flyback works.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fee0d266_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ba6c0708_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9a5d1ffc_c.jpg