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-   -   Sylvania console (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=246837)

DaveWM 01-03-2010 05:04 PM

Sylvania console
 
Tube/hybrid/SS?

http://orlando.craigslist.org/zip/1535056996.html

sampson159 01-03-2010 05:25 PM

early solid state set.combos are pretty rare.some even had black matrix crt.decent sets,but the e 45-48 sets were far superior to these.that may be a e 11.grab it if you can.good find

DaveWM 01-03-2010 05:36 PM

e mail sent waiting for reply...

bgadow 01-03-2010 10:09 PM

An unusual combo. I have seen some very nice pics put out by Sylvania, though their crts did not seem to be the longest lived. Tuned up, this could be a very nice "daily driver".

zenith2134 01-03-2010 11:28 PM

If I had more room I'd be all over a nice console like that . And it is nice especially because sampson says it's a good set and I trust his opinion.

radiotvnut 01-04-2010 12:14 AM

Yep, those Sylvania's put out a heck of a picture when working right. It's just that the CRT's don't last nearly as long as a Zenith. I own one of the last GTE Philco/Sylvania 19" sets with the E32 chassis and it's inline CRT is dying again after being rejuvenated about a year ago. I'd like to find a 19" or 21" Sylvania delta gun CRT table model set.

sampson159 01-04-2010 10:25 AM

the 25vamp22 sylvania crt was the best and longest lasting.it came in the hybrid sets(d12 and d16).it has a gray face and will produce a fine picture in any set.the 25vdmp22(very dark face) is the crt most sought after.when introduced in the mid 70s,sylvania always was touted as the best picture i.e.consumer reports,etc.those tubes didn t hold up very long,back in the shop days,3-5 year old sets were coming in with weak crts.many were swapped with zenith tubes and we never had a come back.i have swapped everything in everything and noted results through the years.i personally like the early sylvania 25v for longevity and the 25vdmp22 for the look.philco also had a nice look to them too.rca crts were excellent and they could be jolted over and over through the years to keep them going.the heavy zenith crts were similiar.that combo is a rare piece and i would love to have it.i have a crt,and aset of modules for it.good sets with only solder joints on the yoke and convergence plus power caps swelling up.somethimes the thermistor will let go.not too hard to repair.sylvanias were very big here in the south end of columbus and we saw way too many of them.simple,easy to fix and good crts,they don t make em like that anymore.sylvania gt matics,zenith chromacolors,xl100s were the cream of the crop.downhill ever since.just my opinion folks.

kx250rider 01-04-2010 10:27 AM

I think that's the COVETED black matrix, black faced 25VDMP22!!!!!!!!!!!

I'd grab it just to harvest that tube, if it were in my area.

Charles

DaveWM 01-04-2010 10:33 AM

well still waiting to hear back, maybe one of those infamous CL back hole listings...

Sent e mail again.

Jeffhs 01-04-2010 12:09 PM

The seller seems to know little or nothing about electronics. I saw the item description for this console; when I saw the line "works but needs electrical wire replaced," at first I thought the chassis wiring was bad. Why would this set work if the underchassis wiring is crumbling? (If it was, after all, there should have and likely would have been a warning in the description to the effect that the set needs rewiring before using.) Then it dawned on me: the seller probably meant the AC cord is in bad shape and should be replaced. Why don't these people say what they mean rather than writing easily misunderstood descriptions? Even if the seller knows nothing about electricity other than how to change a light bulb, I would think he or she would at least know the difference between a length of wire and a power cord that plugs into the wall socket. Hmmm. :scratch2:

DaveWM 01-04-2010 12:22 PM

yea I just figured they mean the AC cord. oh well , like I said it may be one of those CL black holes, nothing back yet. They did just post Sunday so maybe just did not check the mail yet.

DaveWM 01-04-2010 12:26 PM

speaking of CL and black holes, funny I was talking to the folks about the emerson, told them I would be coming over to get it. When I got there and chatted for a bit, they said how they had gotten a few calls but then they dont show up. Guess it works both ways, I don't get it, If I say I will be there I will be there, and I will be there when I say (on time), unless I am in a hospital.

Must be something about the way you are brought up. Maybe this is common.

sampson159 01-04-2010 12:31 PM

i took a good look at at this time and it is a black matrix crt.chances are it is not very good,but lets hope you can get this and it has been replaced.i had a vdc rebuild in a set and it was the best ever.video display corporation had a 25vdmp22 on their shelf about 2 years ago.89.00 plus shipping.i should have grabbed it.good luck with this one.keep us posted!

radiotvnut 01-04-2010 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM (Post 2963445)
speaking of CL and black holes, funny I was talking to the folks about the emerson, told them I would be coming over to get it. When I got there and chatted for a bit, they said how they had gotten a few calls but then they dont show up. Guess it works both ways, I don't get it, If I say I will be there I will be there, and I will be there when I say (on time), unless I am in a hospital.

Must be something about the way you are brought up. Maybe this is common.

I've been dealing with crap like this for the past 20+ years. I'll have something for sale, someone will call and claim they will be right over to get it, and I'm still waiting. If they're not interested, don't call in the first place or have the courtesy to tell the seller that you're not interested.

I've also had my share of CL sellers who fall off the face of the Earth as well as the local sellers who claim to have an "attic full of radios" who in reality don't have anything. I think some folks just like yanking people around.

DaveWM 01-04-2010 01:48 PM

Well I KNOW my wife will be happy if they never call back :yes:

AUdubon5425 01-05-2010 03:20 AM

That model is covered by Sams 1503 (1975) - E111, E113, E114 (per Sams online index.)

DaveWM 01-05-2010 09:36 AM

I figured I would give in one more email (2 so far nothing) prob a throw away email acct. oh well no big deal I have plenty to keep me busy, and I really prefer something a little older anyway. Guess for free you can not expect much in the way of courtesy.

DaveWM 01-08-2010 11:59 AM

25vdmp22 sylvania tube

All SS

The lady had gotten a bunch of no shows early on so had stopped responding (i can understand that).

Anyway got it home in one piece.

I will put it on the CRT checke later.

Or should I just go for it? do you variac SS sets, I have no idea about a powr up procedure. Dont want to smoke anything if possible.

Charlie 01-08-2010 01:15 PM

Never really dealt with the SS sets, however, I'd lean towards pluggin it in and lettin 'er rip! Those sets won't have any paper caps, and in the big scheme of things, it isn't very old (only 1975). Probably doesn't use any black beauties, either. I'd just give it a good visual inspection looking for anything obvious. You could run your amp meter with it to make sure it isn't drawing too much current when you first fire it up.

radiotvnut 01-08-2010 01:28 PM

I'd give it the visual once over. If I didn't see anything wrong, I'd fire it up.

ctc17 01-08-2010 02:13 PM

Are all the transistors socketed in this one? I had a table top of that age that was very well built.

DaveWM 01-08-2010 02:53 PM

I will get a pic of the chassis later, looks solid built.

DaveWM 01-08-2010 03:03 PM

Pics, CRT has a kinda washed out looking center area

DaveWM 01-08-2010 03:27 PM

power up, tuner working (getting audio) HV is at the anode (30kv) but its like the CRT is completly cut off. very very dim no discernable pic. when you turn it off and on you get a flash of light.

No raster ohter than the same very very dim effect.

Gong to check the pic tube next.

DaveWM 01-08-2010 03:41 PM

CRT test very good.

So its just being cut off, I guess the next step would be to confirm by checking the voltages at the CRT?

All the filaments light (stay lit, so must have some dumb instant on feature some were).

Gonna need a Sams on this on guys.

DaveWM 01-08-2010 03:44 PM

There were a couple suspect looking caps on the CRT pin board, a brown dip

.22 uf 100v... not very big either.

Gonna need a lot of help here as I no nothing about trouble shooting TV's with IC in them (at least they are all socketed). If I need replacement IC are they still available?

DaveWM 01-08-2010 04:38 PM

.22 check ok

can some one tell me what voltages I should be seeing from the K to the G1 and G2 on the guns? with no signal (just raster).

DaveWM 01-08-2010 04:46 PM

K to G1 -200vdc
K to G2 +500vdc

Seem like -200vdc would certainly cut off the emissons.

DaveWM 01-08-2010 04:55 PM

going to mess with the brightness control to see if there is any effect on the G1 voltage.

DaveWM 01-08-2010 05:43 PM

Hmmm brightness control has no effect at all on the K to G1 voltage. I thought it should.

Charlie 01-08-2010 06:00 PM

That chassis pic is quite dusty. You cleaned all the dust out of there, right?

One of my roundies had a really dim picture when I first got it... kinda snowy too. Had lots of dust and cleaning it brought everything back to life! :D

sampson159 01-08-2010 08:38 PM

i ve had bad triplers cause all kind of strange problems with these sets.once at the shop,we had a sylvania that was similiar.all voltages were correct yet a very dim picture.had to turn out the lights to see anything,dim even then.crt checked good 28-29k at the anode.heater volts were 6+ volts.we were thinking crt.though it checked good,it could be bad?dave jones came by and told us the tripler wasnt defective-it was the wrong one for the set.it sure was!new unit,just the wrong eeg replacement.also service switchs are suspect.pull modules and look ffor breaks especially around the brighness and agc controls.lytics are another problem.your set has a washout in the crt.check plugs for the yoke and convergence.cold joints and check all grounds on the modules.make sure you screw the modules back down.we would get some comebacks because of unusual lines in the picture because of loose modules.these are fairly easy sets to repair.love them!!!that washout on the crt is an issue.good luck with this and keep us in tune as to your progress.i have a module or two for that set.also a rebuilt crt.not a dmp though.

bgadow 01-08-2010 10:08 PM

One of the problems with the ss Sylvania I have is that the setup switch barely fits through the hole in the back. When installing that cover it is very easy to miss the hole and pull the switch out of the circuit board. That happened on mine and lead to an intermittent in the video. When it acted up the screen was very dark and had a "negative" look.

ctc17 01-08-2010 10:54 PM

Yep all socketed transistors. Brings back memorys, all the red TO220 style. I checked, dont have the sams for thats set, bummer.
You could try wiggling some of the transistors around in the sockets. If I remember one common issue with mine was poor contact in the transistor sockets.

DaveWM 01-09-2010 10:29 AM

there are 3 main boards

IF
Chroma
deflection


did the wiggle thing on a bunch of transistors
checked the video amp, blanking and some other transistor on the chorma board, all tested good.

cycled the service switch several times.


I may need to pop for a Sams if no one has one here on the boards. I have no idea what to do next short of checking all the little electro caps. I dont have an esr meter so I would need to take them out of circuit for my old heath tester (I assume the ESR meter does not find a shorted or leaky cap anyway). Are those worth the 150-200$ I see them listed for, or am I just better off pulling the cap and testing in my old heath kit tester?

I am assuming I can concentrate on the chroma board since I am pretty sure the vert sweep is working and I have HV so the horz is working, I am getting good sound so I assume the IF board is ok.

My next course of action was to trace the brightness control pot wires the the PCB and the G1 grid wires to try to understand high bias is set on the CRT (that is with out a schematic) for now.

Reece 01-09-2010 12:42 PM

I had an all SS Sylvania a couple of years newer than yours that your chassis picture reminds me of. After some years the tripler tended to arc over but I scraped off the carbon and siliconed up the sharp arcing-prone points on it and it ran for a number of years. I eventually replaced the tripler but an ongoing problem was the two heat sinked transistors seen just to the left of the HV section. They plug into sockets and the connection was sometimes iffy as they draw some current. One of them, the one on the right in the picture, would blow after a few months. Too much heat. I ended up sort of "corrugating" the transistor leads like a bobby pin so they'd make better contact, and putting plenty of heat sink compound on the transistor cases. I also made up and screwed on some aluminum cooling fins to the heat sinks. After that I had little trouble with those parts.

Charlie 01-09-2010 12:43 PM

Wish I wasn't STILL stuck out here at anchor on the ship... if that set is from 75, I likely have the Sams for it. If I make it home before you find another, I'll dig it out... but that could be a few days.... :(

DaveWM 01-09-2010 04:18 PM

hope you get back soon Charlie, I will hold of on buying a sams till I hear back from you.

This beast is HEAVY...

the radio works fine, but the 8 track is missing its belt (I dont have any 8 track any more, lost my old fake alligator skinned 8 track box back in the 70's, had some good ones led zep, jetho tull ,the who, you get the picture).

Popped off the radio bezel to realign the dial scale, greeted with several nice bug cases.... yuk....

Charlie 01-09-2010 06:00 PM

The 8-track doesn't work???? Aw man... what a shame!!! ;)

DaveWM 01-09-2010 08:27 PM

yea I miss that un even speed and constant head alignment :D


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