Cute maggie console all tube B&W mid 60's
 

got this yesterday, lite wood, 12" bass with a oval mid and small round tweet. SE 6bq5 micromatic changer, 23" B&W tube. Condition ok, a littel water damage in a couple of spots, not bad.

I like the size, smallish with the round legs with brass boots.

this will be the 3rd of this chassis, so I know it pretty well now and what to expect. I will get some pics as soon as I find the camera.

What I really like about these old console sets is how you can drive the stereo amp directly off the converter or DV player and get good stereo sound. The speakers are pretty good in these old maggies, beat the daylights out of those little ovals most of the box cabinets come with.

here they are...

opps here there are again

couple more for now

wow you got another one! I seem to attract zenith combos. There was one of these locally but the gal wanted $150 for it in not working condition. I just couldnt pay that much for a bw.

How do the crts seem to hold up in these? All the 21 inch bw sets I have found have almost dead crts. They dont seem to last like the smaller ones.

I have all my combos setup like that. I usually just put a bypass on the tv power switch so i can leave the tv in the off mode which connects the amp to the speakers. Most of the combos sound really good with a clean input.

Hows the flyback meltage in this one?

fly looks very good, so far CRT's have been ok to weak, but all work.
power tranny looks/smells ok.

Both EL84's are shot, as is to be expected. I did not remember seeing a rectifier tube, so I am guessing a doubler circuit. those IIRC have the under the chassis caps which dont seem to hold up as well as the twist locks.

There is some water damage to the particle board bottom left front, I will knock it down and stablize with some epoxy wood filler. I would just cut it out, but its what the wiring diagram is glued to, and I would like to save that.

The size is very nice, should fit into a small room very well. I think I could set up a small flat screen color (boo,hiss) on top for watching color shows, and use the B&W for vintage programing, both using the stereo amp of course.


I will pull the HOT and do a current monitored slow power up just to see what happens. there are a couple suspect caps in the HV circuit that are 50/50 (white tube shaped) I prob should pull the chassis and check for bumble bees or black beauties, as this may be a 60,61 which may have used those instead of the white tubes like the others.

This was a 20$ deal so I had to go for it. With the DVD/converter you get the full remote experience which is very nice, Just need to get a clapper to turn it on and of and I will be good to to.

I considered the use of the aux, but it was a real easy fix on the last one to just add in another RCA input, clip the wires on the waffer switch, and run the new RCA to the remaing channel, now clipped off. That keeps the TV power on switch working AND saves the aux for a CD player.

I have never been a fan of having the woofers setup like that. To much cancellation. I have an rca like that and an one where they both fire front, everything else is the same and the front firing had 5x the bass.

I cant get into any of the old shows. To me its like watching a foreign language movie and dont understand a thing. I sometimes watch the news on my bw if I stand the propaganda at the time.

I have noticed that the filter caps will act shorted and get hot then if you let them cool down they are fine. Its like something breaks loose and they un short.

That's a nice Maggie. I'm diggin the simple "modern" look of the cabinet. Looks like it has the same chassis as mine... I think they used that chassis for several years. I don't think mine has any tubular caps... they're all early generation orange drops and also the brown drops (if you wanna call them that). Mine was playing fine till a filter went south and started leaking AC into the picture.

The CRT in mine tests excellent. The lady that had it previously said they didn't watch TV much... they listened to the stereo mostly. That might explain why the CRT is good and the stereo outputs are bad.

well I hope to get to it soon, but I have to make room. Yea the looks really got me hooked, simple clean, and those brass boots are sweet.

I dont need to fix the stereo amp to check out the TV, so that will be looked at 1st, no hurry on the amp/tuner.

The one you recently had with the "hula" issue... that was a maggie, too, right? And you had another as well... prolly same chassis again I bet. Any more of these sets, and you'll be able to get certified by Magnavox! :yes:

yep exact same chassis, bring that hula on baby I'm ready for you now!!

low b+, turned out to be both the doublers were open, I tacked on a couple, ane replaced some of the ceramic tube 1kv caps (.1, .047, and .001) just because. the .001 was leaky the other were ok.

fired it up, no HV, replaced the HOT,damper,rec, got HV but a odd looking raster, looks like the vert is barely working and the Horz was not full.

checked the vert tubes, the vert osc has a high grid voltage bias should be

-40 but is more like -8.

the plate was way low, but that is prob due to the goofed up bias on the tube. there is a .0051 5% coupling cap that may be leaking (the other side has 250v) so I will replace that with a .0047 (all I have) if it is. if that is the problem then I will order the right part later. I checked the VOT it may need a bypass cap, its not shorted so I jumped on on, no help. So I think its that vert osc. Tomorrow I will check if that is not it then I will break out the scope.

I checked the plate load resistor, ok as is the vert height pot.

The -8 means its trying to osc so hopefully that will be the problem.

hmmm not good news, while checking other stuff in the vert sweep circuit I noticed one of the leads on the vert output autoformer is open, Darn...

no joy on finding a vert output can someone cross a magnavox number to a

thordarson/triad/anything else?

the Magnavox is

320079-3 vertical output (it a autoformer)

I have a Magnavox vertical output transformer that came out of a '60 model 23" B&W console. It has 3 wires and the P/N is 320254-4. You can have it if you think it will work.

thanks for the offer but need a 4 wire. I will try moyer monday to see, I am just looking around to see if I can find a sub part number. Its a pretty darn big autoformer. this is the second one in a month that had a bad vert, 1st the RCA CTC 16 and now this little maggie.

I may end up attempting a fix, maybe get lucky on the break (its not shorted the last leg is open, would be nice if its on the outside and not the inside. there is no evidence of trama to it, but something is up, the two defection windings had be cut and reconnected, poorly I might add, I don't think it is orginal to the chassis.

one more option I am thinking about is gutting a ratty magnavox color set for its CRT and chassis and makng this a color set, I dont really care that it is not original (not exactly a colletor item, at least not now) but I would love to have a color set in this neat little console, esp with the tube amp for sound.

its a 26S04, (got the number over at arf).

That last vert transformer you got at Moyers... was it a pretty fair price?

20$ not bad, I will be calling them in the AM

No joy on the vert out from moyer, No joy on the other lead I got from ARF, so now I will contemplate pulling the tranny and seeing if I can find the continuity break. If I am lucky the break is early in the winding starting from the outside (its on the end, just which in the inner or outer) sorta like those disney chipmonks, the one that got canned it the tomato canning plant. He was in the very last can opened by his buddy, when he got out he just said " I was in the very 1st can you just started from the wrong end".

hmmm since its not shorted, and the only problem is the blanking leg, perhaps I can work around that and get the blanking off the yoke windings. I have seen a couple schematics like that, looks like some kind of voltage divider used to tap the yoke windings. 1st though is I have to see if the vert osc is working, and if not why. I am assuming the blanking being open would not stop the osc, but maybe I just cant see it if its getting blanked out I do get some vert on the raster, but most of the CRT is blacked out, just a smudge of raster about 1/3 high and about 1/2 wide. I don't know enough about the blanking signal to know if this could be caused by the open leg.

ok got full raster now, just re stuffed all the can caps. I have not tried feeding it a signal yet, I know I need the horz sync diodes replaced (one is open) and there is no blanking pulse (vert output tranny on the way).

I think I am going to try open up the existing tranny and see if the blanking circuit wire is just broken right at the output. I just was happy to see the full raster. Need to clean up the shop now that it is working. Since I am new to TV it should be interesting to see how the pic looks with no blanking signal at all, so will replace the horz afc diodes and feed it. This will be a good learning exp as I will see what it looks like when it is bad (so I can diagnose problems like this in the future a little bit better).

weak pic, hard to get a vert lock, squiggly lines (horz afc diodes?).

subbed a new RF amp, no change, pulled the IF tubes all tested weak will sub them next...

dug out a couple strong IF tubes getting a pretty decent pic now, still want to replace those horz AFC diodes (even though it seems locked in ok). The blanking is completely disconnected.

the horz osc seems odd, it was fine then I heard it slow down, lost HV and parts started getting hot. I quickly adj the horz pot and the HV popped back on. It has a new horz osc tube. Guess I need to check the voltage drop across the HOT cathode resistor and see where my current is.


Its like I cant adjust the fine tuneing enough to get a real clean pic. I don't know if that is the lack of blanking or not. Will only be able to tell when I replace that vert out tranny.

well some more fiddling and I get a good clean pic now. If I turn down the contrast I get horz white lines. I assume these are retrace lines due to the disconnected blanking wire from the vert autoformer.

I had to add a 1 meg 10 meg resistor over the 2.2 meg resistor in the vert osc height control to get the vert big enough.

just for grins I put in a couple shot 6bq5s (did not want to put in good ones since I have not recapped the amp), got some sound out of it then hum set in and the rec tube started to red plate. So at least the audio detector is working, but I will need to work on that amp before trying again.

ordinary geranium diodes, or shotkey diodes pulled from a switching power supply secondary side will probably work.

looking better all the time, replaced the horz afc diodes, had to re adjust the horz osc coil, checked the HOT cathode current right on the money (124 ma). I will be adding a cathode fuse later and maybe a B+ fuse as well. pic has a bit of a lnterlace problem, but seems to be settling down. You can work it out pretty well with very careful adj of the vert hold but it is just a little to critical. It seems to be getting better as the tv is used. I dont know what circuit in the set conrols vertical interlace sync phase inverter perhaps?

I will check that tube its a 6gh8 by subing with a working one. other tubes include the sync sep /video output tube a 6eb8.

and of course I can check the various resistor in and around those same tubes.

If someone can explain how the interlace is controled pls jump in.

oh and I made up a nice little cathode checker from a dead octal tube base and a socket from the parts bin, all direct connections but for pin 8 which has two color coded wires with clips on the end. The only problem was it added too much height to the tube and the plate lead would not reach so I jsut used a short jumper for that. bypassed with a 1uf and check with both a DMM and a simpson analog, same readings.

before I go off the deep end the play is to clean all tube sockets and the yoke socket as well, clean the brt/con/horz/vert pots. should have done that 1st.

if that does not help the interlace, then I will do some tube swapping with a working set.

if no improvement I will try some voltage checks although I don't think that will help since it is subtle and intermittent (the interlace comes and goes).

Vertical sync has twice horiz frequency serrations, and sync separators are essentially low pass filters. In one field of video, the vert sync starts at a regular timed horiz sync pulse, the other field it starts at a halfway point between regular timed horiz sync pulses. The object is to try to avoid the horizontal sync from contaminating the vertical sync pulses and vertical oscillator circuits. If that happens, the interlace gets "line paired" and you lose vertical resolution. Scan lines on top of each other instead of halfway in between. But keeping the horizontal sync pulse out of everything else in the TV set is easier said than done, it gets into most everything. Maybe if the vert circuits use horiz B+ boost, a filter cap is not filtering well enough?

I tried to attache the schematic, it was too big. I will try again later, hope you can point out a possible problem area.

there is a .047 cap coming off the screeen of the HOT to ground, perhaps some kind of decoupler? I do not recall checking that one. It looks like a decoupling network as after the cap there is a 8200 5w resistor then it goes to the 245v B+, the Screen of the vert output is connected directly to the 245v source.

I am guessing the .047 cap will work as a decoupler at the freq of the HOT.

If the cap was bad it would have to be open (if it was leaky I would have a drag on the B+) I will try just jumping another cap and see if it has any effect. It's one of those brown dipped one, and I already had a couple bad one of those (leaky, .22uf 200v). The 400v ones tested ok, but I did not test that one.

all the filter can caps and doublers were replaced. as well as the electrolytic cathode bypass caps .

no change after jumping a new cap on that HOT screen.

think it is time to break out the scope and snoop around. I will check the wave pattern on a good set (same chassis) vs this one, on the grid of the vert output tube. then I will adj the vert hold so I get the over lap, that way I hope I can see what the pattern looks like, and if I can see the diff.

one thing I was checking was the voltages of the vert out, 0 on grid, 22 on cathode, all 3 of these chassis have this result, yet the sams say should be
-2.7 and 15. I have checked both the coupling cap and grid leak resistor, both ok. I tried different tubes, including some NOS (thinking it may have been gassy), I get some different cathode voltages (20-23) but the grid is always 0. I check with a DMM and a VTVM with and with out video signal.

The DMM would show millivolts some neg but very small like -50mv and it would jump around.

Sounds like you may have a leaky coupling or bypass cap in the vertical somewhere. All they need to do is get a tad leaky or off and they cause havoc and all kinds of weird issues. If that cap to the grid is even slightly leaky it will cause that to go positive.
Let me see if i have the schematic for this, do we have a model number?

c36-23-11

the coupling cap checked ok on the heathkit cap tester, but I will replace anyway. (the cap that goes to the grid of the 6EM5)

it does give a cathode current of 36ma, not sure how to check it unless I make up a remote socket with leads to connect up a meter on a 9 pin mini.

or could calcutlate it, I know I have a votage drop of about 21 volts, I will need to check the resistance (its part of the lineairity pot circuit).


22v/591ohms=.037 amps=37ma so seems like it is right on the nose.