I have always wanted one ever since I saw one of them in HS, and it blew me away how it worked, so I finally gave in and got a couple, cheap.

First one seems really clean looking, seller said it is working, which I doubt, as there's something missing in this picture. :tears: :thumbsdn:
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/ezgif-61b06a3c43119908.jpg

So I got another cheap one.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/ezgif-604c1d51370434b0.jpg

This one HAS the missing part, and 2 templates, but said was unsafe to use as it was "smoking",I spotted something odd in the picture.

It came today.

I was correct, I did spot something..
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260923_203627.jpg

SMOKE source.:yes:
did not even have to plug it in.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260923_203644.jpg

Not even sure if this CRT is good or bad, It's an odd type, not sure how to test it, does not match the schematic.

Now I wait for the other one to come.

Well, the CRT from the unit with the damaged yoke IS good, or has good emissions.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260924_184736.jpg

Took a bit to work out how to test it, as it has 14 pins, not 12, like shown in the docs.

Now I wait for the one they say was "working" to show up.

I've got 2 1076's. The second one was found behind a shopping center's defunct TV shop. It was in rough shape. It looked like it sat out in the elements for 6 months. I set it out in the sun for a whole day to dry it out. It had rust spots and cobwebs on the chassis. I cleaned it up AND it did power up. Vertical was screwed up which required some new caps. Also some 2.2M resistors had gone off value. Surprisingly I did not have any problem with the yoke!
If you're looking for transparencies, you can make your own. Simply download the pattern you require. It needs to be about 333x444 but if not, you can resize it in "Paint." Print that image to a printer and take that print to Staples or Office Depot and ask for a transparency to be made. They do it on a laser printer so the image will not rub off. You can ask for extra contrast if you think it is needed. The last one I did cost me about 75 cents. Then cut down to size to fit the Analyst's slide holder. What you're missing is the pickup tube. There are 2 different tubes used in these and they will not interchange (different number of pins) The newer one produces a sharper image. I've seen them on Ebay. Good luck.

the other unit came that was said to be "working" and as I suspected, it dont work so well! :thumbsdn:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260928_184419.jpg

At least it does not smoke!

The main cap on it is DEAD!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260928_191825.jpg

Replacements coming.

It's working! :banana:

Sort of.

I did not order the NP 20 uf cap on the video output on the thing, and it's REALLY bad, leaky, put a temp smaller film cap in for testing.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260929_205605.jpg

ordered a 22uf film cap 450v

The bad, very leaky cap that cause there to be over 120V dc on the video output terminals of the unit.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260930_195456.jpg

And the replacement that's on the way.
https://www.mouser.com/en/ProductDetail/Knowles-Illinois-Capacitor/BLS226K451H302?qs=6avfeC6zeS5E%252BqlgmMKA2g%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

One Illinois-Capacitor out, and one in! :D

That 18.86 khz seems a tad bit high, but I'm not sure if the O-scope is reading it right yet, will see when the right output cap is in it, but there does seem to be a way to Adjust the freq.

If you have a regular sinewave generator you could adjust it to repeat at the same rate as the horizontal does and measure the frequency of the sinewave.... Alternatively you could measure the number of scope grid divisions between sync pulses on a modern stable composite video source (like a DVD player) then adjust the B&K so it matcjes.

It's alive! :D:banana:

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20261002_184808.jpg

Still needs some work, perhaps some new tubes. they are all old original.
but it works!

:thmbsp:

If it worked before, it can work again! An old CE told me that once. And I always remembered that.

The yoke is crooked for some reason, and I still have to change the caps on the scanning PCB, but It's working, as I'm waiting for newer tubes.

the color bars don't always work for some reason. :tears:

Video!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/1006261818.mp4 :D

They're here!
Yes, that's a 40 year old delta screen color monitor i liberated a long time ago from a Commodore SX 64.

Nice!

I think there was supposed to be a transparency with black stripes for the spaces between the colors and gray stripes corresponding to the colors to give them a *little* luminance (not full white like the Indian head background).

Nice!

I think there was supposed to be a transparency with black stripes for the spaces between the colors and gray stripes corresponding to the colors to give them a *little* luminance (not full white like the Indian head background).

Correct, but you have a better chance of finding grass growing on the Moon than any full set of inserts for the unit, unfortunately, they are always the first to be lost, I only have the one shown, and the dot pattern for static convergence.

Correct, but you have a better chance of finding grass growing on the Moon than any full set of inserts for the unit, unfortunately, they are always the first to be lost, I only have the one shown, and the dot pattern for static convergence.

You (or your local office store) can print them on overhead projector transparencies... Somewhere here or ARF somebody with a full set scanned them for that.

You (or your local office store) can print them on overhead projector transparencies... Somewhere here or ARF somebody with a full set scanned them for that.

Well, if someone were to offer scans, I would not refuse! :D

Scans of the slides are found here:
https://antiqueradio.org/BK1077BTelevisionAnalyst.htm

I just make my own slides.
So, now you have a 1077 that needs a phototube? You might have trouble finding that. You might have to go with a solid state pickup. But you'll need a 5V power supply and an op amp to raise the signal level. You'd need one with analog output as some are digital output. The prices are all over the place but I found an affordable one on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/377273648748?_skw=uv+sensor+guva&itmmeta=01M50576D9DAMA9XA68CD6V53T&hash=item57d743066c:g:1CkAAeSwPZZqMzhn&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde%2BxI aJmnxtOORRBvQV66HEQyy9xwovCVXZEYzfHqjcAGB5K6P46BSW YhKdalCRAoOJ0TMwBZLEgWtACKm6Xck3d6uAmCWm7oqSPcJjqh U565VNLNvH1np%2BtVV9GGLn5%2BR9GzGILsqLbidq9cs7vGFL kWhjpMH5z%2Bd8xBWejczvzAg1qgqwwcWTQxFAohjwO47YXMuw KyoiQ%2B9svwdjQGjpqfxELn33nyXd8Pa6m%2BVVVgyFRhVuPx XKuCqQAPhct5RayGc%2FU%2FfghLeKYUhF11pt3clWIGv4SF0R Bhc1rq9942g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM4Oechaho