In addition to the free 21FJP22A, I was also given a Tele-Tone. TV-149 in rough shape, fulfilling my goal of having a ES TV to play with one of these days.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260325_185616.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260325_185554.jpg

I do have the cabinet, its rather beat up. and missing a few knobs.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260325_185600.jpg
No idea if this 7JP4 is alive or not, or if my b&k crt tester 490b can even test it:tears:.

I did find this old thread, however.
https://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=275826
The bk 440 and 490b are not quite the same, close, but the 490b was the last and latest they made.

And I'm not sure which way you ended up having it hooked up when you tested, timmy, you say you used a 15v source on K & G1?
can you give more detail on how its hooked to the tester plz?
Tks. :D

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-test-equipment/490B_manual.pdf

manual for mine

I did find this old thread, however.
https://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=275826
The bk 440 and 490b are not quite the same, close, but the 490b was the last and latest they made.

And I'm not sure which way you ended up having it hooked up when you tested, timmy, you say you used a 15v source on K & G1?
can you give more detail on how its hooked to the tester plz?
Tks. :D

You have to add 12v to g1 cut the g1 and put the 12v in series and if the needle goes the wrong way then reverse the polarity on the 12 v. Or possibly the cathode can’t remember but if I have to I could check the adapter I made.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xos2MnVxe-c

It's alive!!:D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260327_214853.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260327_214838.jpg

I used a 9v battery!
and is seems OK
It looks like it will make a OK picture!

I will have a problem finding knobs for the thing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xos2MnVxe-c

It's alive!!:D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260327_214853.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260327_214838.jpg

I used a 9v battery!
and is seems OK
It looks like it will make a OK picture!
So where did you put the 9 v battery. Did you check the 21fj yet. What I mean is what terminal did you place the battery in series I ask because my bk 440 used to work with that mod and now it don’t I since tried 12v.

So where did you put the 9 v battery. Did you check the 21fj yet. What I mean is what terminal did you place the battery in series I ask because my bk 440 used to work with that mod and now it don’t I since tried 12v.

In series with the G1 line, neg to the tester, positive to the tube Pin 3, W/O the 9v I got no meter reading and no spot on the screen.
The 21FJP22A is not tested yes as the pin cap is very loose and need to be replaced.

Been leaning the schematic of this getting ready to work on it. saw this and went HUH?

come on SAMS...
This has most likely been noticed before, but still :O
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/ooops.jpg
Those caps on a negative bias line...

In going forward with this set, how vital is it to have a test CRT like a 3BP1 or the like to protect the 7JP4, now that I know it seems to still have life in it, that was my biggest worry, that it may be dead, but the fact it made a spot on the screen w/o HV or focus is good! :)

going to need a better isolation transformer as well, as I don't want things to fry when I debug this thing.

OK, cheap 3BP1A found and ordered! $25 with shipping.

I often I just use the tube the set came with or if using that is a PITA my spare 7JP4. I've done easily more than 10 sets and never bothered getting a test tube, but then again I have a spare on the shelf.

I often I just use the tube the set came with or if using that is a PITA my spare 7JP4. I've done easily more than 10 sets and never bothered getting a test tube, but then again I have a spare on the shelf.

This is my first ES set, and thus my one and only 7JP4 so far. :D

What is the 3bp1 for

It can substitute for a 7JP4.

Correct. If you have seen any of Bandersen's videos on U-tube about ES sets, or any in general, he often uses a test CRT for the bring up and debug stage, and then changes to the tube that was with the set in the final stages.
A 7JP4 is far too rare and hard to get to risk in an unknown chassis, but a 3BP1 is easy and cheap to get.

Correct. If you have seen any of Bandersen's videos on U-tube about ES sets, or any in general, he often uses a test CRT for the bring up and debug stage, and then changes to the tube that was with the set in the final stages.
A 7JP4 is far too rare and hard to get to risk in an unknown chassis, but a 3BP1 is easy and cheap to get.

Oh ok I wasn’t sure the base was the same

Yes, the 3BP and 3JP CRT families will sub.

Here's the video where I demonstrate them.
https://youtu.be/4InEz1btbvM

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55183010117_d7c0ba9644_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2s5kmmV)

Damn... :tears:
The Caps from Just Radios are not cheap!
4X .005 @6k
2x .0005 @6k

Damn... :tears:
The Caps from Just Radios are not cheap!
4X .005 @6k
2x .0005 @6k

Do you mean 4x @ 6 bucks each ?

Do you mean 4x @ 6 bucks each ?

No they are HV parts 6 KV, $7 each $41.94 tot

Both DigiKey and Mouser have the much less expensive Wima 6,000 volt caps.
Use 6800pF in place of the 0.005 if they are out of the 4700pF
https://www.digikey.com/short/b9nchjq0

7 bucks each wow it’s gotten expensive along with everything else in this country

As bandersen showed in his video, those caps can be used, but are harder to put in due to their shape and size, the cylinder kind look like the OEM, and are less of a pain to use.

I never used those red square caps always used the white cylinder looking ones.

Besides my first moto VT-71 (white tubulars in that one) I always use the red rectangular WIMA brand caps, and even keep a handful in-stock. The red Wimas work fine in every electrostatic make and model I've worked on... Having to add lead on isn't a big enough deal to justify the more expensive parts in my book... Heck, I have to add lead length to some 630V caps these days.

Well for my first one, I wanted to be like totally tubular, for sure ya know! :D
That being said, it does seem that JR is inflating their prices a wee bit! :yes:

They're the only game in town for new axial HV caps as far as I know. Otherwise, you need to order directly from a parts distributor. We're lucky anyone sells them in small quantities.

Surplus Sales of Nebraska has some old axial Sprague caps that could also be used. The value is a bit larger at 0.015uF and they're a few decades old but should work.

$4.25 each if you get 10
https://www.surplussales.com/items/104741/sprague-metalized-mylar-high-voltage-capacitor/

A pic of the chassis. not done anything to it yet.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260403_230850.jpg

You can see, someone has been at it before...

Looks similar to the vt71 series Motorola

Looks similar to the vt71 series Motorola

Most likely a clone of it,

And that's a Sansui 1000EA in the background.

Question is, what to replace that ugly 18 ohm sandbar resistor with once I replace that selenium rectifier with modern diode, random guess is 180 ohms, but what does people who have done these sets think?

the HV transformer look OK

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260406_202205.jpg

Except for the wire to the Rect tube broke.
It's very brittle

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260406_202224.jpg
that cap down there is shot.

the HV transformer look OK

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260406_202205.jpg

Except for the wire to the Rect tube broke.
It's very brittle

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260406_202224.jpg
that cap down there is shot.

Looks don’t always mean good until it works

Those black caps were probably the best back in the day

resistance check of where that wire SHOULD go, to ground, checks OK, meaning the main HV coil is good.

For lack of any better idea, I will try a 180 ohm resistor in place of the 18, when I replace the selenium rect with a modern diode.

No, that's much, much too large. I'd leave the 18. It's there for surge protection.

resistance check of where that wire SHOULD go, to ground, checks OK, meaning the main HV coil is good.

For lack of any better idea, I will try a 180 ohm resistor in place of the 18, when I replace the selenium rect with a modern diode.

So you’re going to add a resistor while replacing the selenium so why don’t you check the voltages without putting a resistor in if you do need it ok you may not. All my Motorolas got silicon diodes and none of them have a resistor the voltages are all where they should be. You never know with the resistor it may be low.

So you’re going to add a resistor while replacing the selenium so why don’t you check the voltages without putting a resistor in if you do need it ok you may not. All my Motorolas got silicon diodes and none of them have a resistor the voltages are all where they should be. You never know with the resistor it may be low.

Replacing a selenium with silicon diodes always causes a raise in voltage, due to the better rating of the silicon diode.

I have 20 ohm 10w I will try, it should be ok, with the higher voltage from the SI diode.

Replacing a selenium with silicon diodes always causes a raise in voltage, due to the better rating of the silicon diode.

I have 20 ohm 10w I will try, it should be ok, with the higher voltage from the SI diode.

Well yes voltage usually goes up with the change but all my sets never did

Most places say to add 100 ohms when you remove a selenium and replace it, anyway, I'm out of large adapt-A-caps T_T, I used 4 in my sansui, need more now.
Oddly enough, the 18 ohm sandbar was OK, still gonna replace it with a 20, and the 680 ohm was bad, REALLY bad, 1.2k ohms bad.

How many watts is the old 18 ohm

SAMS says 5w for the 18, and 1w for the 680, though they look to be bigger due to they are old dogbone sand types.

first cap done.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260408_194417.jpg
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260408_194444.jpg

Waiting for more adapt-A-Caps

On the front of resistors, not sure yet, but there's prob goanna be a lot bad in the set, a random check of R64, which sams says to be a 150 ohm 1w, power to audio out, (brown, red, brown, silver 120 ohms 1/2 w) tested at 187 ohms. :(

Not sure why a 1/2w was in there, 6L6GTs (25V version) like their power for output, gonna replace it with at least a 1w 120 ohm when I do that cap.

You mean 25L6?

IIRC the 25L6 has lower plate power specs than the 6L6 (which is unusual for a series string version of a 6V tube).

Yeah, that's what it is, I have not seen this tube before, I thought it was a 25v version of a 6L6 :P

Yeah, I don't know how they got away with that. Very, very confusing!

The size difference is , interesting!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260409_183938.jpg

Someone did some sloppy work in the HV part down there.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260411_000050.jpg
frayed wires, pointy bits. all the things you dont do.

those 2.2m meg resistors don't have to be HV types do they? SAMS just says 1W for the voltage divider.

Yeah, that's what it is, I have not seen this tube before, I thought it was a 25v version of a 6L6 :P

Its closely related to the pentode part of the 117L7 pentode-rectifier and similar 117v tubes (M7, N7, P7), which I believe predate it, though I can't prove that.

Here is a better shot of the nightmare waiting for me in the HV deflection control area, I test fit one new caps, just to se how it's going to go, someone has been there before, cold solder joints in the resistors, peaks, burned wires, burned Cap? :scratch2:

I also snuck in a cameo of the new pin cap for the 21FJP22A.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260412_154430.jpg

Still waiting for more adapt-a-caps, want to do the PWS section first.

Nightmare? That looks as nice as open as I've ever seen.

Nightmare? That looks as nice as open as I've ever seen.

+1
If you want to see a nightmare find a 1942 Zenith Consoltone bakelite table radio, or some of the Silvertone table model radio-wire recorders....Darn things are full of brittle rubber wiring and have caps so buried under other parts you have to partially dismantle the circuit to do a recap, and everything you touch cracks insulation off the wires (the chassis are wired like someone decided to fit 15lbs of crap in a 5lb box)... it's like playing the game operation on hell difficulty mode by comparison. Touch one thing and you're replacing every wire.

It's almost as if that area was built from kit, or someone re-built it who did not know what they were doing, frayed wire connections and peaks are a big no-no when it comes to 5kv+ circuits, I'm going to get some 6k rated wire when I redo that area, gonna use regular 1w film resistors, one of which is just wrapped around the post, no solder, I don't think this set ever worked.

Of course the HV PWS is a bit different than shown in the SAMs. :tears:

If you want evil component placement, try a Hallicrafters SX-28 SW radio.

I built a special soldering gun tip out of #8 wire, insulated (electrically and thermally) with thick Teflon tubing that was 4" long, so it could be bent into a snake to
reach down into the nest. I bought a pile of cuticle scissors at the drugstore
to cut wires down there. Expendible.

This USED to be a 1.2k resistor... but not any more!!! :tears:
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260422_191559.jpg

It go BOOM!:D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/ooops.jpg
says it was a 1w on the b- line, putting in a 2w.
gonna be a while till I can do a test power up.

This USED to be a 1.2k resistor... but not any more!!! :tears:
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260422_191559.jpg

It go BOOM!:D

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/ooops.jpg
says it was a 1w on the b- line, putting in a 2w.
gonna be a while till I can do a test power up.

Did you find What cooked that resistor

No idea, someone replaced C5/C6 before I got it, they might have been bad, meaning it could have toasted the 25Z6GT, but I think it tested OK, I did not see any short to the chassis on the B- line.

And yet another toy to play with!
Yes I'm still working on this TV, and tape decks, and amps...
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/20260612_211658.jpg

gotta rebuild it now!