For this 1962 Philco (first of five RCA-chassis "clones"), I happily traded a 1973 Zenith avanti space command (25DC56). I worked on quite enough Zeniths of this era, I don't need them in my collection. Same with RCA XL-100/Colortrak.

As seen below, this looks nothing like an RCA and uses the newly-introduced 21FJP22, while most RCA CTC11-chassis sets used a 21FBP22. Also unlike RCA, two 5x7 speakers that don't pop the rivet when you disconnect them- carefully. That rivet popping will destroy RCA's 3" cone tweeters:sigh:

After doing a few CTC-11 restorations, I have been able to avoid a jammed area above the IF strip can by placing new electrolytic capacitors at the actual rail/tie point rather than a 1-3 foot wire up to the three cans next to the IF. Im not sure if this improves anything, but it couldn't hurt shortening wires to minimize any interference pickup. I.E. vertical sweep buzz in sound, tweets-moire, etc.

This first pic is as delivered! Im just about ready to power it up:thmbsp:
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More pictures. Note that many orange and maroon caps remain,
some were replaced - like all of the vertical feedback loop, several on the Horz osc pcb.
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This area can get very congested if you don't stuff those cans, and I don't want to:thumbsdn:
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The audio board is surrounded by filters :D
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Note the extra power transformer lead for high mains voltage, not offered on CTC11
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Images don't work, for me...

I've only restuffed cans a few times; I wasn't real satisfied with the results, but then, I'm usually not satisfied with how they look stuck under the chassis! The last few nights I've been relocating the lytics that I previously put "down under" on a chassis. Just way too crowded. I came up with a way of mounting them on top that won't win any awards but it makes me happy. I do remember the challenge I had with an RCA -11, fitting them somewhere.

I've always wanted to get a good look on one of those Philco "clones". Expect a visitor! I think I have some factory literature from that era.

Oh, and 100% on those darned speaker rivets! I think I have a few up in the attic that came apart that way.

Images don't work, for me...

Also don't work for me, too

Can't see pics either. Some thoughts: I've had decent luck resoldering the leads on RCA rivet destructomatic speakers with the exception of those on a certain RCA CTC-7 Sanford one of the posters here is familiar with....Had to swap a different speaker in for that one.

Restuffing caps isn't bad with one method especially if there's a cardboard cover over the can...If it exists slip it off, cut the can off around an inch above chassis leaving the bottom wired and undisturbed, make sure the base is gutted and clean, drill as many small holes as there are sections plus one for negative through the insulative base wafer in locations that facilitate connection to the appropriate terminals, wire in the new cap bundle, slip the cardboard sleeve over the can base to hide it or use aluminum foil backed ducT tape to reattach the gutted can top over the lytics. Unwiring is too much hassle compared to underneath replacement, and anything involving uncrimping the bottom of the can is far too much an excercise of inadvertently repeatedly stabbing your own hands for me to ever do it again.

I think I have only seen one other Philco clone that old and it was in the hands of collosal flake Nate Craig.

I'm not sure why this works...

Right click on one of the image links and select open in new tab. You will be prompted to login again, and the image will open in the new tab. From there in the original tab you can right click and select load image. I've had to do this in the past with other posters, but very rarely. Never figured it out....:scratch2:

I see perfectly nice pics, no fuss.

With a wideband design like this, and no delay line for I, you will always see
some misalignment of Y and color. A CT-100 or 21CT55 with properly chosen
peaking coils does not show this.

Perfect pics for me too in Edge and Chrome

I'm not sure why this works...

Right click on one of the image links and select open in new tab. You will be prompted to login again, and the image will open in the new tab. From there in the original tab you can right click and select load image. I've had to do this in the past with other posters, but very rarely. Never figured it out....:scratch2:

Thanks, this compatibility stuff is over my analog-stuffed head:sigh:

I see perfectly nice pics, no fuss.

With a wideband design like this, and no delay line for I, you will always see
some misalignment of Y and color. A CT-100 or 21CT55 with properly chosen
peaking coils does not show this.

CTC7-11 was a wide-appeal set too, so many were sold and I guess those earlier Y - compensated sets were too costly to put on that little video PCB, starting with CTC5 I suppose. Thanks for that fact, makes those very early sets even more valuable.

Not seeing the pics in either Chrome or Edge, and right clicking does not give an option to open in a new page (which has worked for some pics in the past).

I will be following your restoration. Just a long shot on the photos, if you are not logged in, you may not see the images. I see the photos as a link when not logged in. Logged in, the photos are opened.

I will be following your restoration. Just a long shot on the photos, if you are not logged in, you may not see the images. I see the photos as a link when not logged in. Logged in, the photos are opened.

Good suggestion! Unfortunately, I am logged in on either browser, and the photos don't work for me. I do not get an "open in new tab" option.

I upload JPGs via the select/upload/insert function. No odd stuff, so wtf?

Sites like imgur don't work on my PC. so... Im baffled.