In my Toshiba 27A33 27" CRT TV, there is a bipolar electrolytic capacitor that tests bad with a value of 6.8uf/50V. This capacitor is in the vertical deflection circuit. There aren't many options available for replacements. Digikey and Mouser have one option as a replacement but it specifies that said capacitor is specifically for audio and is only rated for 1,000 hours at 85C, (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UDB1H6R8MHM1TO/4332994?s=N4IgjCBcoKwExVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIAz GAJwDs1AHCALqEAOALlCAMocBOASwB2AcxABfQnAAMAFmqIQKS BhwFiZEADYAdAwAEAVoBiIQnrnGzhWtfMhaumPYuuQh0w5i7t9 1iCc3ACqwoIcAPKoALK46NgArvy4koQAtAjQylACCRokkOQwLB KlQA).

Here is a link to the service manual page that shows a schematic of the vertical deflection circuit in the Toshiba 27A33 and shows said capacitor as "C442", (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2254882/Toshiba-27a33.html?page=23#manual)

Another site called "Arcade Parts & Repair" has a replacement but I'm not sure how good it would be, (https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/6-8uf-50v-non-polar-capacitor-105c-radial-df-5/).

This Ebay seller has a new old stock replacement for sale by the Brand "Teapo", (https://www.ebay.com/itm/143587053247?_skw=6.8+microfarad+50+volt+bipolar+c apacitor&itmmeta=01JNMTMVAZ59D5EJEB5QMAR3XH&hash=item216e748ebf:g:R88AAOSwx2hawnNu&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dhsaXdJ mv4vRGI3C6qZmNvHi8vEvRJBPfTvivTo1mRmizjf%2BLl6cD3x HUKy6Zdm%2BmNAFynpiG%2B9ZH1GNXxWFK0gb70RRXTJOnjDOI cDCqogaWoDRHu4SHVNScdqGltWW7eBHmzItziJNfltdpZW2vXn %2BZd6B2nAhb6q0cQuj2RvTfDWJAm1mmg9ONUj9QJOip9MPv%2 F4QxCSk%2FSPZP2obnPrVFmjcqzXdQa%2Bz%2F30NRlDubo1Yg 1uOPx5KFXAoQQu4czEAzoh00gh8GImHBzDzTb4kTtQEIhUhqsL QSE2GdGU98lnyasCPw9Qw%2FOd17tHDQ%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9 C105qtZQ).


Which option would you go with? Would it be safe to create my own electrolytic bipolar capacitor by combining two polar capacitors to get the value I need and would it work well?

Someone on the EEVblog forum suggested that I use a film capacitor such as this, (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cornell-dubilier-knowles/685MMR100K/5413238). Would this be a good idea?

Vertical deflection frequencies are definitely in the audio range, so specification of a cap for audio is probably OK. One of these units specifically says "high frequency" - that's goos. One specifes the ripple current at a certain audio frequency - that's good to know, if only the others gave similar specs.

My guess is that any of these will work. I guess I would go with the 105c 2000 hour one from Arcade Parts, assuming the spec is true.

Vertical deflection frequencies are definitely in the audio range, so specification of a cap for audio is probably OK. One of these units specifically says "high frequency" - that's goos. One specifes the ripple current at a certain audio frequency - that's good to know, if only the others gave similar specs.

My guess is that any of these will work. I guess I would go with the 105c 2000 hour one from Arcade Parts, assuming the spec is true.

Do you think that using a film capacitor like this would be a good idea? (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cornell-dubilier-knowles/685MMR100K/5413238). Would there be any potential issues using this film capacitor? The original bipolar electrolytic capacitor is rating at 50V. Is that an AC or DC voltage rating?

Do you think that using a film capacitor like this would be a good idea? (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cornell-dubilier-knowles/685MMR100K/5413238). Would there be any potential issues using this film capacitor? The original bipolar electrolytic capacitor is rating at 50V. Is that an AC or DC voltage rating?

I think the film cap is what I'd use. They generally can take more abuse than a lytic anyways, and that's a low value enough.

you can get a polypropylene (PP) or metalized PP cap at that value easily.

Only drawback is the price. That will cost you about $2 minimum for one cap, while the lytic is more like 1 buck for a bipolar.

Also, the leads of PP caps tend to be shorter, so you might have to look for one that has longer leads or get a polyester cap with normal leads (the red kind) as that will be better than an electrolytic in that place anyways.