Just got this the other day and spent the last couple days cleaning everything. Haven't been able to test as there are about 3 tubes missing and one broken. I have several replacements but the diagram is missing so I have no idea what tubes I need. I've been wanting an older color set with radio and turntable. Found this in an abandoned 1972 mobile home that's been sitting for decades. Among this was 70s GE console TV, a table top Emerson 19", another"19" JC Penney set, an old Juliette clock radio, A brown GE refrigerator, a brown Montgomery Ward 850 clothes washer. A 1972 coffee table and matching end table with gold velvet inserts in the doors, an orange foot stool. Even an old Montgomery Ward window ac. Plus a lot more. Even the bathroom was all yellow fixtures. Never remodeled. A real time capsule. How do I find out what tubes I need? I think model is 7194.

More images.....

That chassis is an RCA clone (probably CTC-17).The high voltage rectifier is a 3A3, the broken shunt regulator is a 6BK4, the missing novar chassis mounted horizontal output is a 6JE6, and the nine pin circuit board mounted tube is a 6KA8.

That chassis is an RCA clone (probably CTC-17).The high voltage rectifier is a 3A3, the broken shunt regulator is a 6BK4, the missing novar chassis mounted horizontal output is a 6JE6, and the nine pin circuit board mounted tube is a 6KA8.

Ty friend. I'm pretty sure I have some of those. I'll check tomorrow and update.

Wow very nice Silvertone set.

The 4 digit model ## is useless. Look for the long number on
a plate, format is ###.###### its the source code.
First 3 digits are the MFG ( Warwick in this case) then look up in Sams.
The Horz out is expensive so check the CRT first.
Also cant be sure but the HV cup looks chewed up & the shielding
is missing......

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

The 4 digit model ## is useless. Look for the long number on
a plate, format is ###.###### its the source code.
First 3 digits are the MFG ( Warwick in this case) then look up in Sams.
The Horz out is expensive so check the CRT first.
Also cant be sure but the HV cup looks chewed up & the shielding
is missing......

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

I had a feeling that 4 digit number wasn't gonna be right. Only thing I could find. I don't see anything on rear cover and not sure if it has anything inside. Could it be on chassis anywhere? I did notice that cup had saw tooth marks. Done at factory? Is shield mandatory?

That chassis is an RCA clone (probably CTC-17).The high voltage rectifier is a 3A3, the broken shunt regulator is a 6BK4, the missing novar chassis mounted horizontal output is a 6JE6, and the nine pin circuit board mounted tube is a 6KA8.

I have the 6KA8 as shown installed in the pic. I have a 6BK4B but I don't think it's supposed to black? Only others I have are 6BQ6GA/6CU6, 6MJ6, another one similar to the 6MJ6 but slightly taller and the numbers are missing but a 6, 31JS6C, 6DW4B, 6MD8, another one similar to the 6MD8 but no id, HJ359? Hard to read, 12AX7A, 6AU6A, 6AQ5A, 6GHBA, 6DT6, 6FQ7/6CG7, 6LM8A, another one similar to 6LM8A but no id, 10GK6, 10GV8/LCL85, 5**7 can't read, 6*Y6, IV25?, 6GM6, 6EJ7, 6GM6, 6GY6, 6GH8A, 6MQ8, 6G*8A, 12GN7A, 3GK5 and a 20AQ3 with a white top- probably blown.

I had a feeling that 4 digit number wasn't gonna be right. Only thing I could find. I don't see anything on rear cover and not sure if it has anything inside. Could it be on chassis anywhere? I did notice that cup had saw tooth marks. Done at factory? Is shield mandatory?

The tag will be on the chassis. The HV cup was probably arcing &
to save time, money & ordering one was chopped away. ( moused). Best to find a Sams before spending any $$ on it.:smoke:

The only time the 4 digit model is useful on a Sears is when you have a nearly complete Sam's library and you strike out on the longer number.... Having a complete Sam's library is necessary because Sears reused those 3 digit model numbers so you'll get multiple hits under Sears silvertone and have to pull several folders in the neighborhood till you find the one....Had to do that on a Japanese made Sears tube color that the long number didn't seem to be indexed for and it was a pain (successful but a pain).

The black 6BK4 may be okay. The 6MJ6 is a sub for the 6JE6, we stopped buying 6JE6s when the 6MJ6 became available, at the time they cost about the same and the plate caps didn't come off!

I'll put the other 2 tubes I have in. Looks like I'll be missing one. I was able to find a Sam's sheet online for $10 plus shipping but I can't afford it right now. I think it's the right on. I might be wrong though. I included a pic of it.

That Sams you posted is not the right one for your set. Set number 977, folder number one is a series string set, no power transformer. Set number 961, folder number 1, and set number 965, folder number 2 are closer to what you have.

That Sams you posted is not the right one for your set. Set number 977, folder number one is a series string set, no power transformer. Set number 961, folder number 1, and set number 965, folder number 2 are closer to what you have.

Ah ok. I couldn't find anything else.

My Sams paper index from 1971 lists Sears model 7194 as being in set number 943, folder number 2. The cover picture is a combo.

My Sams paper index from 1971 lists Sears model 7194 as being in set number 943, folder number 2. The cover picture is a combo.

How do I get one?

I found the substitute. Put that and the other one in as shown in the pics. Are they in the right place?

The plate caps are wrong. The red wire one goes on the 6MJ6, the large cup style one goes on the 6BK4.

The plate caps are wrong. The red wire one goes on the 6MJ6, the large cup style one goes on the 6BK4.

Ah ok. I'll switch them. All I'm missing is the 3A3 regulator. But doesn't the 3A3 have a plate too? There's only 2 caps.

WARNING!! WARNING!!

:thumbsdn::thumbsdn::yikes:

That flyback looks like it is trashed!

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=206464&d=1709860856

I looks like the outer insulation has been removed, rubber " doughnut " and all. including the wire and cap that should go the the high voltage rectifier tube.

NOT GOOD

And it also seems some of the HV case is gone as well. :(

it also seems that the walls of the socket for the 3A3 regulator have been cut away, if you look close there are 2 different screws in it.

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0719221857(1).jpg

A FBT from my hoffmen for example, ( after arc repair )



a shot of a intact socket

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0522230602a.jpg

Good eyes.
Parts set IMHO

Zeno

Just gonna need more parts. May take awhile. If I had access to other 60s color sets, I'd probably give up on this one but last one I had was back in the 90s so I'll have to keep at it with this one till it's done.

Replacement flybacks are almost, but not quite impossible to find any more these days, they ARE out there, but very rare, and often way overpriced.

Best chance is to look in the SAMS for what replacements are compatible, and hope to be lucky to find one at a fair price.

This TV may be worth finding a spare flyback. Sears sold many of those 25" Medalist color sets and we got hold of dumped-traded ones in 80s with minimal issues.

Just never looked as good as an RCA despite the Sylvania-sourced CRT that Warwick used. A few were sold for video game use, could get $100 even back then!

See if there is a number on the fiber mounting board or on the frame of the transformer. If you find 80-67-3, then the Thordarson part number is FLY-396. If the stamped number is 80-83-3, then FLY-357 is the replacement. Merit also made replacements, but I don't have a cross listing for them. Check with Moyers or Talon Electronics, they stock a lot of NOS parts.

See if there is a number on the fiber mounting board or on the frame of the transformer. If you find 80-67-3, then the Thordarson part number is FLY-396. If the stamped number is 80-83-3, then FLY-357 is the replacement. Merit also made replacements, but I don't have a cross listing for them. Check with Moyers or Talon Electronics, they stock a lot of NOS parts.

Ty. I'll get in there tomorrow and see what we got.

To save confusion :scratch2:
The 6BK4 is the HV regulator. plate cap goes to the HV
the 3A3 is the HV rectifier. there should be a plate cap off the donut
the hoz out plate cap goes to the FBT fiber board.

Replacement FBT's often come with HV rect filament windings. Sometimes
a rect socket too. There may be mods with other parts also.
Beware of open stock ! You will probably never find an OEM seears part.

For the cup check for ##'s then find a WORKMAN catalogue on line.
They sold a LOT of repacked parts including cups.

Zeno

I have no idea why it looks like someone took a bench grinder to the mounting cup for the socket for the HV rect, it could not carbonized up THAT badly could it?

Where do you even look for a replacement?

this sort of looks like it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294526942355?itmmeta=01HTNB8MTEPZ9TAX3J15FG2SW5&hash=item44932c7c93:g:q4AAAOSw1k1hhp-L&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8Cvocf7mZAi0wosko6qaTjI7oEgdL Zo%2BInZAKnSMzncUkEn0y--%2F%2BxQZ3e3vT7UlVAsXIHAkMwD6f6KwGyd9qcbGeaWrO8b2l sdD45%2FZOVxcw6DvM0LRQCJqjtu7WeiGGc7v6z9MBSbg23PtA 61SELHoNmZt5xolAVNNtIRDQaoudPjsAjodmSZxFQ%2BOSU%2B pAuNcH2L9ds6B9I%2Ftpvlk5wgQSziN1lRidJLztomPwaPZmIs oME1eQTynDUDYSf2Sbz775r62o2dgu4uOFWQmyPn86pyklmmzC PjJ6vh%2BTqo7GgNA%2BKlf1E1l%2F6qofGEhNA%3D%3D%7Ctk p%3ABk9SR6rNoqvVYw

You could probably make that one work.

$22 not bad but I can't afford right now.