I found this very nice old RCA XL-100 set today but as of right now I know literally nothing about it. It looks late 70s and there seems to be a chassis number of CTC72 stamped onto the chassis but looking that number up didn't give me much info, so I'm at a loss. Can anyone tell me about how old this set is and about the CTC72 chassis?

The RCA service literature is dated 1977, it was probably sold as a 1978 model.

The RCA service literature is dated 1977, it was probably sold as a 1978 model.

Ah yeah, I see the EB 353M right there! Thanks!

Those were goods sets 1977 is about right. The 1976 models had the trace and retrace scr horizontal section. Which was a pain to fix and weighted as much of a Cadillac from 1976. 1977,1978 and 1979 all had different chassis. I think 77 was modular and was 78 and by 79 there no modules. RCA and Zenith were the top 2 made in us sets i miss them days.

Watch out for the vert module socket They crack & go int.
If left running it will burn the module. Leave it alone for now, just in case.
Otherwise its a solid set.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Watch out for the vert module socket They crack & go int.
If left running it will burn the module. Leave it alone for now, just in case.
Otherwise its a solid set.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

If the socket's cracked, is there any recourse?

New socket

New socket

Is it some kind of proprietary RCA part or can I get it from an electronics parts retailer like Mouser?

Seems I vaguely remember using epoxy to fix a few of those. Had to 'brace' it a certain way to hold until the epoxy cures.

You could try the old RCA OEM distributors. Other than that
maybe glue it. The board comes with the big long heat
sink also. Changing the socket requires full chassis pull thats why I say
only if needed.
BTW the sockets all look the same at a a glance but some are different.

Zeno

Seems I vaguely remember using epoxy to fix a few of those. Had to 'brace' it a certain way to hold until the epoxy cures.

Same. Sometimes a small piece of plastic could wedge the socket to something nearby to close the gap before applying. The trick was to use a *small* amount of two part epoxy and hold the socket together using a hemostat if I couldn't wedge it until the epoxy set.

John