Finished getting this up to speed, cleaned with a complete recap, out of spec resistors replaced, rectifiers replaced with 1N4007s, weak tubes replaced with NOS tubes and a NOS Raytheon 14RP4 installed. I have good B+ and good HV. The grounding wire/spring placement has be a little baffled as the schematic says to connect to the cabinet, the control panel brackets, the tube dag and the chassis mounting brackets. I have the wire going from one corner of the CRT bracket screws to the other screw diagonally across the tube coating which I suspect is wrong given the fact that when the TV is on, every 10 seconds or so there's a very faint arcing sound from the front of the cabinet. I guess my question is how do you run this grounding "spring" so it satisfies all of the connection requirements stated in the schematic? I didn't take pictures of the original setup. Would it be OK to run additional wires from it to the chassis points mentioned? I know some have worked on this specific TV so if there's any wisdom out there, it would be wonderful to know!

Additionally, this cabinet is extraordinarily difficult to work inside of. I do not have light on the screen yet because I've been shocked several times trying to adjust the ion trap. I put on a rubber glove that protects me from shock but they are clumsy and moving the trap around in any sort of logical manner to cover most possible positions is very hard. Unfortunately, the CRT bracket is integral to the cabinet so, as far as I can tell, there's not an option to do this with the chassis and tube out. The yoke isn't anchored in any manner either. Is there a neighborhood position for the magnet on the trap that could get me close or are all CRTs individual as to trap position? Has anyone built some sort of chassis rig for it that would allow it to be worked on outside the cabinet? I really don't like being zapped as many times as has happened so far! Anyways, as always...TIA!

Chris

You picked one of the harder sets to work on!
Did you know that the circuit board folds down to replace the tubes and make the other adjustments! Just remove the screws that hold it!
It's been over 50 years since I worked on one. I don't miss them! :thumbsdn:
BTW, the CRT grounding spring goes to the CRT mounting brackets and the control cluster.
PS, use the original factory service info, instead of Sams.

You picked one of the harder sets to work on!
Did you know that the circuit board folds down to replace the tubes and make the other adjustments! Just remove the screws that hold it!
It's been over 50 years since I worked on one. I don't miss them! :thumbsdn:
BTW, the CRT grounding spring goes to the CRT mounting brackets and the control cluster.
PS, use the original factory service info, instead of Sams.

Thanks so much. Why didn’t I think of the rear circuit board!? I did hinge it down to do the recap. It is grounded to the chassis by the screws but I guess I could use clip leads for that. It will make the ion trap adjustment so much easier! I do have the sams. Couldn’t find the service info. I’m still not sure how to connect the spring wire to all of those points. It’s just a foot long spring with two hooks on each end.