Tv has a video problem. Kinda reminds me of vertical hold on older sets. Chassis is DA4. Where should I begin looking?

video here:

https://youtu.be/SibO5kLpi2o

hook your Sega into a VCR and connect TV to av inputs and see how it looks.

hook your Sega into a VCR and connect TV to av inputs and see how it looks.

Alright, I'll try that right now and update.

Here ya go. A little better but still off

https://youtu.be/EtlgVee-ZSs

is just the Sega? or does it do that with other consoles? now you can go into service menu and adjust the vert linearity to make it stable. now if you do this write down the settings in case you have to back.

is just the Sega? or does it do that with other consoles? now you can go into service menu and adjust the vert linearity to make it stable. now if you do this write down the settings in case you have to back.

The sega works normal on other sets. What's the method to get into service mode on this model

have to google it. it can tell how to get in and what each line is for. find the the vert lin line and up one or two digits. i have a Sony Vega kv-27fs120 in my closet that i had adjusted the grayscale.

have to google it. it can tell how to get in and what each line is for. find the the vert lin line and up one or two digits. i have a Sony Vega kv-27fs120 in my closet that i had adjusted the grayscale.

Ok I'll check tomorrow and update. Ty

Ok, got into service mode and scrolled down but I don't see VLIN. Do I need to go into something else to get there?

vert height, vert centering maybe? you could go up on the height 1 or 2 digits and see if stabilizes. i think it might called vert sync. its your sync in the vert not being in sync with the Sega. had to that back in the day with tube sets and early hybrid and solid state, so it could be used with a VCR. let me research it and get back to you.

vert height, vert centering maybe? you could go up on the height 1 or 2 digits and see if stabilizes. i think it might called vert sync. its your sync in the vert not being in sync with the Sega. had to that back in the day with tube sets and early hybrid and solid state, so it could be used with a VCR. let me research it and get back to you.

Ok, thank you

I did find VLNL and VLNH in 2170D_5. Idk if that's it though.

Google is your friend:

Manual:
https%3A%2F%2Fdiagramas.diagramasde.com%2Fotros2%2 FKV-34DRC510.pdf (first hit with a google search for the Service Manual part number, 9-965-937-02)

That's for the DA-4, multiple models.
Most Sony CRT sets have the same data acronyms:

VFRE Vertical Frequency
VPOS Vertical Picture Position
VSIZ Vertical Picture Size
VLIN Vertical Picture Linearity
VSCO Vertical Correction
VCOM Vertical Compensation
VUSN Shrinks Vertical Height to 16x9 Area
VZOM Places Bars on Picture to give 16x9 Area
EHT Adjust Height of VZOM
ASP Vertical Picture Size - Aspect
SCRL Vertical Picture Position



Can't stress this enough - write down ALL initial values before making any adjustment. Note the range of values too - and don't go above or below. If you do, you may briick the set, as Sony used the DAS device to recover/restore EEPROM data. Without it, you're gonna be SOL if you corrupt the EEPROM

Also, on the HD CRT sets, try the customer menu setting for aspect first - don't try to feed a 4:3 with a 16:9 aspect selected (or any other movie aspect ratio!)

I downloaded the service manual yesterday. Don't see vlin anywhere. The tv is a 4:3 tube. It's not the wide-screen model.

Ok I figured it out. Using 2 and 5, I went down to VPOS, the using 1 and 4, I went to VLIN. Here I a couple hours, I'll connect everything again and change the vlin 1 or 2. I'll update after.

Ok, I went in to VLIN which is default at 9. I went down to 7. No change. I went up to 11. No change. I don't know what's going on :(

Could it be a different setting? Is it possible it's not something to with service mode?

well sometimes old tech and new tech don't play well together. Sega's sync might be to slow, but i don't how to change that.

well sometimes old tech and new tech don't play well together. Sega's sync might be to slow, but i don't how to change that.

I'm actually gonna try different things tomorrow. Maybe it just doesn't like the genesis. Kinda like the way some zenith sets didn't like the first Playstation. I have numerous systems I can try. I just assumed this was the reason the set was retired but then again, I've picked up many sets from the trash that worked like new. I'll post again when I try a few things.

more than likely it was retired for a new flat screen. i am guilty of it too, but i saved my Sony and in the closet.

more than likely it was retired for a new flat screen. i am guilty of it too, but i saved my Sony and in the closet.

I think we have got 3 CRT sets like that. One of which is still basically set up in the now unused bedroom it used to be used in...Cable box is gone now though since we ditched cable for ROKU. When it's getting to be well in the 3 figures and climbing and they're offering new customers the gateway (to getting scammed) drug $20 subscription while cranking us up, and the content is all disgusting woke propaganda with hardly anything worth watching you eventually get fed up and walk away... Them making the switch from analog cable to 100% encrypted digital where we suddenly had to pay them rent for each tuner didn't win them any positive points either...

That's why I never fell for the digital hype after cable. I decided if I needed to watch TV, I'd hit up the 1500 vhs or several hundred dvd pile 😂

well its two different medians 1. CRT is classic Sony picture is fantastic along with chroma color tube. its all in preference, just one side will like and put down the other. I like both a VCR looks better on a CRT and old shows. The Roku, blue ray looks better on newer sets. I like to stay in the middle. We cant stay in the past, but we can remember past and look to the future. Network TV is junk that's why i watch a lot of you tube. There is a lot of great content makers out there.

Yeah, I watch alot of YouTube. I like some of the urban exploration. Old abandoned houses etc. There's some good stuff on reviving old cars too.

As far as repairs go you need a block diagram & schematic at the least.
The block will show you the paths for all the different inputs. The OSD
looks good & thats a helpful start. We sold Sony & never had problems like this
until flat screens & HDTV. I would bet there is a SMD cap bad but they are
full of them & if one is bad usually others are near that. Its like a
high end car. Get rid of it near the end of a warranty or it will cost
you kilobucks every year.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

I wondered about the caps. Did these sets have something in the service menu showing number of hours used?

Ok, I connected a Playstation 2 and it's still acting up. This would be the reason it was discarded. Could it be the vertical ic or am I definitely looking at caps? Tbh, I'm surprised a 2003 would have bad caps already. I've got several sets, all way older, and they work like new. Where should I look? I have the complete service manual btw. Here's a link to the video:

https://youtu.be/bNcsNO9E1JY

Could it be the vertical ic or am I definitely looking at caps?
https://youtu.be/bNcsNO9E1JY

Not the IC, not the output IC anyway. Your deflection is full and linear and the graphics are stable which indicates a problem in the sync and not the output. The jungle IC is a possibility.

Regarding caps - the do go bad and did go bad even when I used to work on these when they were only a few years old.

My first step when suspecting a crappy *electrolytic* was to get out a heat gun (careful) or a hair dryer (safer) and warm up the board. If the picture stabilized or even corrected itself, I'd drag out the ESR meter and have at it once the board cooled off. With the schematic, you can limit yourself to the areas around the jungle having to do with video and sync.

John

Also that was about the height of the cap plague era. I've got a top end Dell from that year and 5 years ago I had to recap the power supply and the motherboard multiple times to keep it alive...I think I swapped supplies when I had non-zero money, but still there were tons of bad caps left in it.

Ok, soon as I can open it up, I'll run it for awhile and put heat on them. If it doesn't get better with heat, I'm assuming it'll be the jungle ic then? I have some schematics here.

I'll probably wait till Saturday to open this up. Here's another screen. I do notice about a 3/4" drop at the top of screen as wrll

I'll probably wait till Saturday to open this up. Here's another screen. I do notice about a 3/4" drop at the top of screen as wrll

Put in on an unused tuner channel and see if the snow reaches the top of the frame. Even if it's down a bit, that could be a lazy 100uf/220uf in the vert amp circuit (common) or an adjustment of the vert height, neither of which would affect vertical sync.

John

I've had it running about 20 minutes and now it tries to shut off. I try to get a video real quick.

Here's what it did after 20 minutes warm up:

https://youtu.be/DoESqqvOedI

I've had it running about 20 minutes and now it tries to shut off. I try to get a video real quick.

If the set is trying to shut off after 20 minutes, there is definitely a problem somewhere, either in the LV (B+) power supply or the 2nd anode supply to the CRT; I would suspect the latter. Most color TVs of the late '70s on had an HV shutdown system in place to protect the CRT in case of abnormal increases in 2nd anode (ultor) voltage, which can and often will cause x-rays to be generated by the HV regulator tube as well as the CRT. (Remember the color TV x-ray scare of the 1970s?) I'll never forget a picture I saw in, IIRC, Popular Science magazine of the '70s which showed a man who had pressed his stomach right up against the screen of an operating color TV. The caption below the picture read, "This is the spot for a chest x-ray!"

Some of these protection systems shut down the HV immediately, resulting in a black screen, while others caused the TV to display an unwatchable picture. Either symptom demanded that the TV be shut off immediately and not used again until the problem is remedied.

BTW, these problems cannot happen with flat-screen HDTVs; even though there is high voltage on the panel, it is nowhere near the kilovolt range.

Look for cold joints around the hoz / HV. Looks like its totally
loosing H sweep & HV. It could easily blow the Hoz out & that will often
take out the PS.
73 Zeno:smoke:

Ok I'll get into this Saturday. I hope it's nothing real major. I turned it off when I ended the video.

Btw, I forgot to ask, are these two problems related? With what's been going on and now this?

Btw, I forgot to ask, are these two problems related? With what's been going on and now this?

It's old. It's a Sony...

That video you posted looks like the B+ became unregulated because it seems to be pulsing at a regular rate. As others have suggested, it could be simply bad solder.

John

It's old. It's a Sony...

That video you posted looks like the B+ became unregulated because it seems to be pulsing at a regular rate. As others have suggested, it could be simply bad solder.

John

I'll open it up Saturday and see what I can find

Got the back off. Not seeing any leaky or bulging caps. Right Tom trying to figure out the easiest way to get the D board out so I can flip it but the plastic it sits on doesn't want to slide out and I'm not seeing any clips. God I hate working on the big wega sets. I only worked on one other one several years ago to change out two ic chips because it was dead with blinking led codes. Got it running only to find that it had took a pretty good hit to the top left corner and the shadow mask had shifted. Anyway, here's some pics so far. I'm gonna try to get this out and stand it up to where I can see the bottom side so I can check. Can someone circle the area I should be looking at? My eyes are not very good and also I can't get the tray that the D board is mounted to slide out.

You probably have two separate problems Your first was a
sync problem but good OSD. See the block diagram for hints.

The second problem NEEDS to be addressed first. If you cant find
it junk the set. And dont forget to grab yoke wedges & correction magnets !

That sub board with the giant SMD IC is probably where the sync problem lies.
Odds are a cap is bad but there are probably a crap load of 'lytics on it.
That means the others are probably on the way west. A lot of S happens on that board.

This is NOT an early SS set that can easily be repaired & you need to
keep that in mind.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Yeah, tell me about it. Lol. You referring to that B board for sync? I have that one out and looking at it. All the suspected caps are surface mount?

Yeah, tell me about it. Lol. You referring to that B board for sync? I have that one out and looking at it. All the suspected caps are surface mount?

Looks that way with SMD caps. To be honest if this showed up at the shop
we would most likely try to order the board. If it was NLA we would
condemn it after calling Sony TA. Some would see it as a challenge but as
a rule you would loose a LOT of $$. Cant pay the bills.....
You may want to look for an NOS board IF you fix the other problem BUT the 'lytics are old & do go bad even if never used. I know it sucks but thats the reality.:tears:

73 Zeno:beer:

Ok ty much. I'll see if I can replace or fix but it might be a loss.

I can't find a replacement. I'm assuming it's 1-684-698-13.

Got the board out. Had it checked by someone. He went over the bottom and hit a few places that looked questionable. I don't have the proper iron for this. I put it back in and tried it and now it doesn't start up. It just clicks, blinks led 3 times then clicks again.

On the very first attempt, it's sounds like it's gonna turn on. Probably the sound of the degauss. Any attempt after that is just one relay, 3 red led blinks, then another relay. Nothing else. Not even static on the screen when you touch it like you'd get if it turned on.

On the very first attempt, it's sounds like it's gonna turn on. Probably the sound of the degauss. Any attempt after that is just one relay, 3 red led blinks, then another relay. Nothing else. Not even static on the screen when you touch it like you'd get if it turned on.

With the TV unplugged, go the horiz output and measure resistance from collector to emitter. It should be virtually open. A short means the transistor is bad.

If there's no short, measure the voltage on that transistor from collector to emitter - it should be over 100VDC. If that's missing, you work back toward the regulator. If that voltage is there, we work on the horizontal drive.

Is there a schematic on-line?

John

I downloaded the pdf of the service manual. Would u be able to show me on the manual where I need to test? I'm not familiar with emitters and collectors. My 30 years with self learning is limited. I tried sharing it on her but it's like 15 mb.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/851917/Sony-Trinitron-Kv-32hs510.html

With the TV unplugged, go the horiz output and measure resistance from collector to emitter. It should be virtually open. A short means the transistor is bad.

If there's no short, measure the voltage on that transistor from collector to emitter - it should be over 100VDC. If that's missing, you work back toward the regulator. If that voltage is there, we work on the horizontal drive.

Is there a schematic on-line?

John
Do I need to leave the board in to do this or can I take it out?

I've given up on this one.

Do I need to leave the board in to do this or can I take it out?

Board in if you can get to the test points - out if you need swing room.

Have you measured the voltage at the collector of the horiz out?

John

Board in if you can get to the test points - out if you need swing room.

Have you measured the voltage at the collector of the horiz out?

John

Naw, even if I did get it to turn on again, I'd be back to replacing all the caps for the vide. Apparently these sets aren't so good for old games because there's some sort of lag.