This set has been on the front porch of a house after owner passed for some time. Cosmetically has held up pretty well with the exception of the power cord being chewed in half. I cleaned it up and plugged it in today only to find a line running across the screen with only the bottom half displaying anything. I've been having problems with my camera this past week so the pics are terrible. Any idea what's causing only half the screen to show?

This set has been on the front porch of a house after owner passed for some time. Cosmetically has held up pretty well with the exception of the power cord being chewed in half. I cleaned it up and plugged it in today only to find a line running across the screen with only the bottom half displaying anything. I've been having problems with my camera this past week so the pics are terrible. Any idea what's causing only half the screen to show?

If only the white line was showing, I would say the vertical oscillator or output tube is defective, or the vertical output transformer was open. If only half of the picture shows on the screen, however, I don't know and would not know where to guess the trouble might be (I've been away from electronics for over 20 years, having had to give up my workshop in my former home in 1999 when I moved to an apartment late that year--long story and OT).

Your camera seems to be working if it is producing the images you are showing in your post, so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. The first thing I would do, however, would be to charge the battery(ies), if your camera uses one or more such cells.

BTW, I am amazed the TV is working at all after sitting on a front porch in goodness knows what kind of weather (!) for years, the only damage being a chewed-up power cord. Most electronic devices, let alone very old televisions, will not take that for any length of time, and would probably go up in smoke if plugged in and turned on without being dried out first (if the set has been exposed to water for any length of time, as this one seems to have been). Replacing the damaged power cord is a good first step, but there is almost certainly other damage under the chassis which must be corrected before the set can be considered repaired for good. This TV is not all that old, however, having been made in the year 2000, so whatever is or may be wrong with it may not be as bad as you may think.

It's totally dry. Doesn't seem to have ever been wet inside. Particle board and mdf don't last long in dampness. Everything solid otherwise. I remember running older 19 inch sets that had been in rain outside for many long months and I actually got lucky alot. That was probably 25, 30 years ago lol. I might try to connect a vcr or something and see if I can get a better shot

hey man bad cap in vert look for 35v 100uf that what goes bad in every tv.

hey man bad cap in vert look for 35v 100uf that what goes bad in every tv.

I have a 35v 220 uf. Will that pass? If not, I'll have to look and see if I have a 100

You can go 10% higher so it would work. you can go higher but not lower.

You can go 10% higher so it would work. you can go higher but not lower.

Awesome. Kinda figured but couldn't remember. I'll update once I get it in.

Ok I kept looking and found a 35v 100 uf so I'll be putting it in a couple days or so.

I'm finding 2 that are 35v 220uf but no 100uf. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. I'm not familiar with the ctc203ax I wish I had a diagram. Doesn't help that I need glasses for close up stuff lol

its usually the 35 volt that goes bad.

its usually the 35 volt that goes bad.

So it's one of the 35 220?

it was always the 35. i would replace anyone close vert output. you can pull caps off old junks boards. remember you can go higher but not lower. that's both volts and uf.

it was always the 35. i would replace anyone close vert output. you can pull caps off old junks boards. remember you can go higher but not lower. that's both volts and uf.

Ok so it must be the smallest one in the pic. It's a 35v 220uf

yes that's the closest to the output. there's just three caps just replace them and go from there. like i said you grab them off old boards. when i had my shop i would buy allotment of electronics from goodwill in Atlanta. Now there might 60 TV's 20 VCR's and they would throw in microwaves. I don't work on microwaves, but i had to take them all, but for 50.00 cant complain. The first ten i would use for parts. The first set i sold made back my money and the rest was gravy. I just my time it, so keep that in mind.

yes that's the closest to the output. there's just three caps just replace them and go from there. like i said you grab them off old boards. when i had my shop i would buy allotment of electronics from goodwill in Atlanta. Now there might 60 TV's 20 VCR's and they would throw in microwaves. I don't work on microwaves, but i had to take them all, but for 50.00 cant complain. The first ten i would use for parts. The first set i sold made back my money and the rest was gravy. I just my time it, so keep that in mind.

That's cool. Miss the old days. I'll replace and get back to you

Ok, changed the 35v 220uf and now it looks like this:

deflection has gotten better. you said it outside for awhile, now you can sub a cap underneath. just make sure its + to + and - to - until you find the bad one. Theirs a bad cap in there close.

deflection has gotten better. you said it outside for awhile, now you can sub a cap underneath. just make sure its + to + and - to - until you find the bad one. Theirs a bad cap in there close.

Yeah, the next cap in line is a 35v 1000uf. I have a 35v 1500uf. Ok to use?

yes you can.

Cool. Tomorrow's agenda👍

Replaced the 35v 1000uf and here's how it looks:

well after i looked the picture again that's not the vert section. coming from the yoke there should be 2 wires one yellow and one green. follow them down to the chassis that will be the vert section. same thing find the bad cap.

well after i looked the picture again that's not the vert section. coming from the yoke there should be 2 wires one yellow and one green. follow them down to the chassis that will be the vert section. same thing find the bad cap.

At the yoke, I got two sets of wires. One set says yoke H which as brown and red. The other set is yoke V and it's brown and black.the brown and black run to the caps we changed. I do have a yellow and green but they come from the board on the gun.

https://elektrotanya.com/rca_chassis_ctc203_training_manual.pdf/download.html#dl hey i found the service info. with thosehttps://elektrotanya.com/rca_chassis_ctc203_training_manual.pdf/download.html#dl sets the tuner ground did not have goo solder from the factory. that cause the e prom go bad, but first check the voltage on the vert side only see if what the reading is. plus do a ohms check on that side. i leaning towards bad vert chip. the e prom was just for a few chassis. the bread butter of shop. give that a try.

https://elektrotanya.com/rca_chassis_ctc203_training_manual.pdf/download.html#dl hey i found the service info. with thosehttps://elektrotanya.com/rca_chassis_ctc203_training_manual.pdf/download.html#dl sets the tuner ground did not have goo solder from the factory. that cause the e prom go bad, but first check the voltage on the vert side only see if what the reading is. plus do a ohms check on that side. i leaning towards bad vert chip. the e prom was just for a few chassis. the bread butter of shop. give that a try.
Will do. I'll get back with you.

I'm not good this multimeters except when using for home wiring etc. I took the board to a guy and showed him what u said. He said he can't check it because he doesn't have an oscilloscope etc. I have my meter but not sure of where to set it or where to test.

i am going to be honest i don't you to get hurt. there's not much in the vert section. 90 percent is in the output chip. i hate to say the parts cannon, but you half deflection and the bottom has a nice picture, so do not give up. the tough dogs are more rewarding to fix. there's about 10 parts in the circuit. you replace the 3 caps and has the pulse from fbt. cap from the ic was replaced and the 3rd was to. that's the next thing other checking resistors and diode.

i am going to be honest i don't you to get hurt. there's not much in the vert section. 90 percent is in the output chip. i hate to say the parts cannon, but you half deflection and the bottom has a nice picture, so do not give up. the tough dogs are more rewarding to fix. there's about 10 parts in the circuit. you replace the 3 caps and has the pulse from fbt. cap from the ic was replaced and the 3rd was to. that's the next thing other checking resistors and diode.
Going at this one piece at a time, what should I check next?

check diode 14501 the resistors download the service menu a look at page 43 shows the whole section. it has to be the output replace that.

check diode 14501 the resistors download the service menu a look at page 43 shows the whole section. it has to be the output replace that.

Ok I found the cr14501 right next to the caps we replaced. I have trays full of new diodes. Is there a specific number or something I need to look for yo get a match?

try a rectifier diode lowest you got. get close as you can to 35 volts. check the resistance on the resistor network. i could tell you how to do voltage checks, if i do i would like for you to at least watch some u tube videos. need to see if you your 23v supply and 13.6 off the vert side of yoke and 7.6v supply from jungle ic. i am betting the output ic. get an idea on checking voltage and i can tell where to check.

try a rectifier diode lowest you got. get close as you can to 35 volts. check the resistance on the resistor network. i could tell you how to do voltage checks, if i do i would like for you to at least watch some u tube videos. need to see if you your 23v supply and 13.6 off the vert side of yoke and 7.6v supply from jungle ic. i am betting the output ic. get an idea on checking voltage and i can tell where to check.

Ok I'll check into it

I have new diodes showing 8435 SA7.OA

you have a sa8.0a that's 13.6v. you could try it, but i suggest voltage checks first.

Looks like the sa7 is all I have besides a sa5

PAC
saw ur message. jbattles giving you good help so far. I will jump in
with comments.
1) several resistors in around the vert IC look overheated. Cant tell for sure but they are the 2 light blue ones.
2) if you order parts buy a new vert out IC, they should be under $10.
3) look under the vert out IC. See if it has bad joints or is getting
toasty brown.
4) try tapping the chassis & see if the pix returns to normal.

The CTC203 was the last true RCA then they went China.
I only saw a hand full & that means either not many were built or they
were very reliable. Hence I have little knowledge of them.
Good luck
Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

PAC
saw ur message. jbattles giving you good help so far. I will jump in
with comments.
1) several resistors in around the vert IC look overheated. Cant tell for sure but they are the 2 light blue ones.
2) if you order parts buy a new vert out IC, they should be under $10.
3) look under the vert out IC. See if it has bad joints or is getting
toasty brown.
4) try tapping the chassis & see if the pix returns to normal.

The CTC203 was the last true RCA then they went China.
I only saw a hand full & that means either not many were built or they
were very reliable. Hence I have little knowledge of them.
Good luck
Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !
Yes he's been a great help. I hate to see this one go being the last of its kind. I'll check into a bit more.

Note that most training manuals dont show everything. It would help
to get a copy of the service manual, any CTC203-## should work.
Even just the vert area. At that point you can decide weather to
troubleshoot or shotgun.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Note that most training manuals dont show everything. It would help
to get a copy of the service manual, any CTC203-## should work.
Even just the vert area. At that point you can decide weather to
troubleshoot or shotgun.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !
Should I just go ahead and order the ic?

Where do I order the ic?

A few OEM-NOS RCA parts distributors. I dont know who they are sry.
For them you need the 6 digit RCA part #. Format is ######. It probably starts with a 2. Also have the FULL chassis # & the designation of
the IC ( such as IC### ) from the PCB just in case.

Alt is pull the old IC & get the generic numbers off that IF it has any.
Also if the IC got real hot the numbers can fade away. They can be searched
for & often subbed to a replacement line such as TCG.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Ty 👍

RCA part number is 215531 or tda8172
i probley have some of them

RCA part number is 215531 or tda8172
i probley have some of them

How much for it if u do?

I might even have some of the Parts you need for your TV in my parts stash, a few years back the local Salvation Army Store (before they closed up shop for good during the pandemic) had a couple of baskets full of old electronics parts that came from a local appliance repair shop that went out of business because the owners passed away, in that basket was a bunch of RCA, Zenith, Magnavox (NAP) ICs for TVs and VCRs.

i think i have a new 27'' ctc203 chassis i will look and see.

i think i have a new 27'' ctc203 chassis i will look and see.

Cool. Let me know.

Did you get the parts i sent you..

Did you get the parts i sent you..

Yes, I'm gonna be putting in soon. I was hoping to replace entire chassis but idk.

Got the ic switched out today and found the 100ohm 1A thermistor just laying on the board next to the fuse. Does anyone have one? I might have one laying around but I doubt it. Usually have everything but what I really need.

Those degaussing thermistors fell apart on many brands. I used to just solder the wires back on.

Those degaussing thermistors fell apart on many brands. I used to just solder the wires back on.

U mean the disc back on the 2 wires?

Ok, new ic put in. Finally got everything back in and tried it out today. Focus keeps going in and out about every second. Never seen that before. Also was surprised to see something called warranty clock. Ne ver in 40 years of working on tvs have I ever seen something like that. Kinda cool. Says has operated 65,000 hours and was first turned on 4-11-2000.

That focus problem can be caused by a broken/loose connection in the focus circuit. Anywhere from the flyback, focus control, CRT socket, or CRT focus pin.

Ok, new ic put in. Finally got everything back in and tried it out today. Focus keeps going in and out about every second. Never seen that before. Also was surprised to see something called warranty clock. Ne ver in 40 years of working on tvs have I ever seen something like that. Kinda cool. Says has operated 65,000 hours and was first turned on 4-11-2000.

That tube looks weak from that pic... Hopefully it will balance out when run a few hours.

Focus drift can be coming from anywhere, including the CRT itself. Sometimes in a quiet room you can hear the arc beat in time with the focus drift. A rubber tube probed around might tell you where the drift is coming from.

The focus drift is probably coming from inside the CRT socket assy or (yikes) behind the socket guide. Given the history of this TV being outside, the possibility of it trapping moisture from the air inside the socke, behind the socket guide, or inside the flyback is very real.

The CRT socket assy has a built in spark gap to ground out any wayward internal CRT arcing to ground so as not to back up into the kine drive circuits.

The assy is normally held together with melted "rivets" that can be easily removed. Carefully separate the halves being careful not to let the individual metal pins get away. You will see the spark gap inside, and if it's been arcing, you will see some greenish smutz in that area. Cleaning won't help but with a Dremel and a fine tip, you can grind out the arced area leaving fresh white plastic. Go over it with a bright light and magnification and make sure to remove absolutely all of the green smutz.

If inside the socket is clean, the problem might be between the plastic guide pin and the neck of the tube. When these were made, most of those guide pins were pushed on and held in place with clear RTV. If it's glued, it's hard to get behind. If you try prying to help, use a plastic spatula instead of a metal screwdriver. If you get the guide off, look for that same green crap behind the guide (if it's white - if it's black, you won't see it). A replacement guide is best but you can try soaking the guide in ISO for a while and brush it out. Clean the neck of the tube and carefully remove as much RTV as you can. I wouldn't replace the RTV however.

A third option is the flyback itself is arcing internally at the focus divider/adjustment. If so, you might be able to hear it with your rubber tube stethoscope. You can try removing the fly and putting it in a box with a hair dryer blowing into it on low for a few hours and hopefully drive any moisture out.


John

Funny enough, this is the first time the focus has done this. All the other times it never did this. The inside and back has never been wet. I'll go back in a couple days and look everything over again. The tubes not as bad as the pic shows. My camera on my phone messed up awhile back and now mostly everything I take a pic of doesn't look all that great. Also need to check my connections inside. I might have left something unplugged as the left speaker doesn't have sound.

https://youtu.be/tBHlg-NCjQo

I put a video up on you tube showing the focus. Seems like speed of flicker depends on what's being show on screen. Sometimes it speeds up and sometimes it slowes down.

https://youtu.be/tBHlg-NCjQo

I put a video up on you tube showing the focus. Seems like speed of flicker depends on what's being show on screen. Sometimes it speeds up and sometimes it slowes down.

Have you listened for it? That type of focus pulsing is often audible as well. In a dead quiet room, listen for a soft pop in time with the focus change. If you have a HV probe, you can measure the focus voltage right at the CRT pin. You will have to refocus with the meter in circuit.

John

Have you listened for it? That type of focus pulsing is often audible as well. In a dead quiet room, listen for a soft pop in time with the focus change. If you have a HV probe, you can measure the focus voltage right at the CRT pin. You will have to refocus with the meter in circuit.

John

Unfortunately, I don't have a probe. I did listen for sound but all I remember hearing was the low hum usually associated with these sets. I will try again when it's dead quiet to see if I notice anything. Only thing that's bothering me is all the other times I ran this set, there was no focus pulsing. Could it be something caused from removing the chassis last time , transport of the board from a to b, and when I put it back in?

Pulled it back out today and tried everything I could think of. Listening for a tick or any sound in timing with the pulse but nothing. Someone said I should try running the focus back and forth on the flyback. Does that seem feasible?

I give up. My whole goal here was to save crt sets from ending up in the dump. I got close with this one and now it looks like this :(

I give up. My whole goal here was to save crt sets from ending up in the dump. I got close with this one and now it looks like this :(

That could be a corrupt eeprom. These chassis *must* have the tuner grounds soldered and the two heatsinks tabs - the horiz output and the LV regulator.

Not soldering these grounds will absolutely corrupt eeproms. I remember changing an eeprom in one of these in warranty for no audio. Two days later it was back. These chassis were new at that time and we had little experience with them. A call to RCA about the failed eeprom was to solder the tuner and heatsink ground tabs. RCA issued a "goldenrod" about this about a week after I ran into this.

You could solder the grounds and then get into the service menu and reset the vert height and centering. Normal values are between 0-63 IIRC but sometimes we'd see values that didn't make sense, like numbers in the hundreds or with letters instead of digits.

John

That could be a corrupt eeprom. These chassis *must* have the tuner grounds soldered and the two heatsinks tabs - the horiz output and the LV regulator.

Not soldering these grounds will absolutely corrupt eeproms. I remember changing an eeprom in one of these in warranty for no audio. Two days later it was back. These chassis were new at that time and we had little experience with them. A call to RCA about the failed eeprom was to solder the tuner and heatsink ground tabs. RCA issued a "goldenrod" about this about a week after I ran into this.

You could solder the grounds and then get into the service menu and reset the vert height and centering. Normal values are between 0-63 IIRC but sometimes we'd see values that didn't make sense, like numbers in the hundreds or with letters instead of digits.

John

Hey John. I turned it back on and it's running normal again. Should I go ahead with the grounds?

Hey John. I turned it back on and it's running normal again. Should I go ahead with the grounds?

The TV may be working normally now, but the next time the ground connections come loose the problem will return and could corrupt the EEPROM chip. I am no expert on these by any means; I only worked on TVs, the old tube-operated ones, as a hobby years ago (my basement was full of them, trash finds, in the '70s) and have absolutely no experience at all with modern solid-state sets. Your best bet would be to look for someone who is well-versed in this type of repair, but as I said, I would at least try resoldering the grounds; this may get the set working again unless the EEPROM chip was damaged by static charges, etc., in which case the only solution would be to replace the chip. In a TV this old (23 years), it may not even be worth repairing; in fact, some repair shops may not even touch it.

Hey John. I turned it back on and it's running normal again. Should I go ahead with the grounds?

The grounds should be done in any case. Your eeprom isn't corrupted because they don't "fix" themselves when they are.

It would be the tuner grounds specifically that are causing your issue with the picture even when using AV inputs. The ground to the jungle IC runs through the tuner (stupidly).

The tuner is a surface mount affair and is delicate work. You have to remove the tuner cover (soldered down) and then solder the tuner perimeter and several ground pins in the middle of the tuner.

There is an alternative if you don't plan to use the tuner - solder a ground wire from the cage around the micro and jungle IC and bypass the tuner directly. I've never done this but if you want to try, the point you need to solder your wire to would be on the lower right corner of the tuner when the board is oriented where the tuner input connector is facing straight up. There is a ground point that has a wire soldered to it on the top side of the board.

John

Ok, in a couple days, I'll get in there and get that done. I mostly use the av and s-video. While I have the board out, would it be advisable to do a "board wash"? It's really filthy.

Ok, in a couple days, I'll get in there and get that done. I mostly use the av and s-video. While I have the board out, would it be advisable to do a "board wash"? It's really filthy.

I wouldn't unless there's a sticky grime that on the board that you can scrape off with your fingernail.

I used to wash boards in the old days strictly for aesthetics. But I would remove *anything* on the board that could trap water. In your case,that would be the flyback and SMPS transformer and any tunable coils, but I don't think your chassis has any.

My favorite solution was a product called Parson's sudsy ammonia (I don't know if it's still around). The boards would come out so clean they'd literally shine.

I had a hot box built with a small hole to put in a low temperature hair dryer snout and a hole on the top of the box. They'd dry for at least an hour before going back into service.

John

Alright. If I do, I'll heat dry it, then it'll sit for a few days just in case.

Cleaned up everything real good. Everything done but tracking down the focus issue. I'll be getting a probe soon so maybe that'll turn something up. Everything else looks good. I do have one other issue. Only the speaker on the right side is working. Nothing from the left. Going through the audio settings in menu changes nothing.

Cleaned up everything real good. Everything done but tracking down the focus issue. I'll be getting a probe soon so maybe that'll turn something up. Everything else looks good. I do have one other issue. Only the speaker on the right side is working. Nothing from the left. Going through the audio settings in menu changes nothing.

When the grounds act up, they typically cause bit corruption in the eeprom (more often than not). Since there are no mechanical adjustments except F and G2, *any* adjustment including tuner alignment can be tweaked off.

First, go in the customer menu and see if the TV has a balance control. If it does, move it far left or far right and make sure it stops at either extreme. Often, the pointer will run through the stop and appear on the opposite side. Keep moving far left or right until the pointer gets "locked" inside the ends of the balance range. The pointer can often run through the stops several times before you get it centered. That might fix it.

John

When the grounds act up, they typically cause bit corruption in the eeprom (more often than not). Since there are no mechanical adjustments except F and G2, *any* adjustment including tuner alignment can be tweaked off.

First, go in the customer menu and see if the TV has a balance control. If it does, move it far left or far right and make sure it stops at either extreme. Often, the pointer will run through the stop and appear on the opposite side. Keep moving far left or right until the pointer gets "locked" inside the ends of the balance range. The pointer can often run through the stops several times before you get it centered. That might fix it.

John
I found the balance and ran it left and right. Stops where it should. All the way to the right, I have sound. All the way to the left, nothing.

I found the balance and ran it left and right. Stops where it should. All the way to the right, I have sound. All the way to the left, nothing.

Sound problems other that corrupt eeproms are uncommon in these. For the heck of it, did you verify the speaker itself?

The 169s had issues with leaky caps making the boards conductive and upsetting the audio output ICs causing int sound, squeaks, squeals, and no sound, but I never saw any later RCAs do that, but on the other hand, these are another ten years older, so...

John

Sound problems other that corrupt eeproms are uncommon in these. For the heck of it, did you verify the speaker itself?

The 169s had issues with leaky caps making the boards conductive and upsetting the audio output ICs causing int sound, squeaks, squeals, and no sound, but I never saw any later RCAs do that, but on the other hand, these are another ten years older, so...

John
No but I have thought about it. I'll get one tomorrow for and put it in there to see if it'll work.

I've yet to try the audio on this thing. I have a pair of speakers from another set I will try. I've been thinking about the whole focus issue lately. It doesn't start messing up till it warms up. Could it be caps and which ones? I'm thinking on changing some out.

I've been thinking about the whole focus issue lately. It doesn't start messing up till it warms up. Could it be caps and which ones? I'm thinking on changing some out.

I doubt it's a cap. That type of focus error (absent of any other picture symptoms) is going to come down to a bad flyback, a bad CRT socket, or a bad tube.

In the order of probability, I'd put the socket first, tube second, flyback third.

John

So the part of the board that slides onto the pins of the tube. Can I check that in any way? I know this thing has some hours on it. Counter says 65000. And I just found out that left speaker was bad. Changed it out with another and is working now.

Can I check that in any way?

Not easily (pics?)

The problem is that many of these develop a green coating inside the socket assy that becomes resistive (not measurable) over time and humidity.

Back when they were new, we'd order a new socket. When they got harder to find, I'd take them apart. They're usually held together with melted plastic posts. I would drill them out and carefully separate the front and back half.

if there was green (or worse) tracking between the Focus pin and the ground pins (there's a built in arc-gap in there), I would get a Dremel and carefully grind out the contamination like a dentist would remove tooth decay. Clean with IPA and dry well.

If it was repairable, I'd reassemble with a couple of well placed drops of RTV where the plastic posts were drilled out.

John

Not easily (pics?)

The problem is that many of these develop a green coating inside the socket assy that becomes resistive (not measurable) over time and humidity.

Back when they were new, we'd order a new socket. When they got harder to find, I'd take them apart. They're usually held together with melted plastic posts. I would drill them out and carefully separate the front and back half.

if there was green (or worse) tracking between the Focus pin and the ground pins (there's a built in arc-gap in there), I would get a Dremel and carefully grind out the contamination like a dentist would remove tooth decay. Clean with IPA and dry well.

If it was repairable, I'd reassemble with a couple of well placed drops of RTV where the plastic posts were drilled out.

John

Oh nice work. You want pics of the screen or the socket? Probably the socket....

Oh nice work. You want pics of the screen or the socket? Probably the socket....

There's a chance I may have that socket. Give me a couple of days to check through my buried pile of old crap.

There's also a chance that the cover over the focus pin may be removable by unsnapping the little fingers that hold it together. If I can't find a socket, we'll try looking under the hood so to speak.

John

There's a chance I may have that socket. Give me a couple of days to check through my buried pile of old crap.

There's also a chance that the cover over the focus pin may be removable by unsnapping the little fingers that hold it together. If I can't find a socket, we'll try looking under the hood so to speak.

John
Ok thank you :)

There's a chance I may have that socket. Give me a couple of days to check through my buried pile of old crap.

There's also a chance that the cover over the focus pin may be removable by unsnapping the little fingers that hold it together. If I can't find a socket, we'll try looking under the hood so to speak.

John
Did u find it yet?

Did u find it yet?

I found one that the focus input tower is cracked/broken. Probably still usable but you'll have to RTV the focus lead to stay in place.

I have a friend who has a storage area that he was cleaning out, he may still have a board I can grab a socket from.

John

I found one that the focus input tower is cracked/broken. Probably still usable but you'll have to RTV the focus lead to stay in place.

I have a friend who has a storage area that he was cleaning out, he may still have a board I can grab a socket from.

John

Ok, let me know. 👍

I found one that the focus input tower is cracked/broken. Probably still usable but you'll have to RTV the focus lead to stay in place.

I have a friend who has a storage area that he was cleaning out, he may still have a board I can grab a socket from.

John

How's the hunt going?

Board came in today. I'm gonna try to get it put in later this week.

Board came in today. I'm gonna try to get it put in later this week.

Good luck!

John

Ty :)

John, that socket u sent me is bigger and won't fit.Also, does anyone know if these are supposed to be touching and is it OK if the board is alittle dark around them?

John, that socket u sent me is bigger and won't fit.Also, does anyone know if these are supposed to be touching and is it OK if the board is alittle dark around them?

Which one is the original one? If the board wiring is the same, use the whole board.

The dark is normal as long as it's not burned. There is high voltage on the socket and the static charge pulls in air borne particles like ciggy smoke.

John

Which one is the original one? If the board wiring is the same, use the whole board.

The dark is normal as long as it's not burned. There is high voltage on the socket and the static charge pulls in air borne particles like ciggy smoke.

John

Even if I used the whole board, it wouldn't fit the tubes pins.

Even if I used the whole board, it wouldn't fit the tubes pins.

Did you try? Even thought the sockets are different the pin spacing should be the same. In any case, which one is the one you need? I might have the other one as well.

John

Did you try? Even thought the sockets are different the pin spacing should be the same. In any case, which one is the one you need? I might have the other one as well.

John

Yes, the smaller one.

Yes, the smaller one.

See if the larger one fits the tube - it should have the same spacing. If it does fit and the board has the same layout, just wire it in. If it doesn't fit or the board is different, let me know and I'll check the dungeon for the smaller socket and/or board.

Post a pic of the original board.

John

See if the larger one fits the tube - it should have the same spacing. If it does fit and the board has the same layout, just wire it in. If it doesn't fit or the board is different, let me know and I'll check the dungeon for the smaller socket and/or board.

Post a pic of the original board.

John

I couldn't get it to fit and the boards have different wires/components .

I couldn't get it to fit and the boards have different wires/components .

Post a pic of the original board, I might have one. If not, I can get you just the socket.


John

Post a pic of the original board, I might have one. If not, I can get you just the socket.


John
Ok 👍