Just got off the phone with the owner.

its a 1953 Hoffman Television Super Receiver Mark V Tv Phono Radio Console.
like seen here. https://i.imgur.com/0qY8THZ.jpg


don't have it in my paws YET
but as soon as i get my tax refund, it's about 20 mikes from here waiting for me! :banana: :D

In the meantime, I will start putting up what pics I have of it.

I did spot something a bit odd in one pic, but at this point, I don't know what type of CRT it has, or if I'm seeing it right.
I just know that it seems to have a 19-21 inch rectangle shaped tube.
The odd thing is, in the picture with the back off, I did not see any ion trap.
Perhaps it just could not be seen in the shot, or the tube does not need one? Who knows?

Won't know for sure till I get it in my hands and can look stuff up on it. :O

https://i.imgur.com/3NRs046.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AvbRiSV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xKcQP02.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fPBWb2m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8quCK1V.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sKnsm1N.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jfU9zBW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AOTYFjc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Qkwc1S9.jpg

Sams says its a 21FP4 and needs a ion trap.

but I dont see one in the picture :O

So it's A: missing a single ion trap for a 21FP4 and I will somehow have to find one, NOT EASY! T_T or B: it was rebuilt like the one I got from dieseljeep last year, and has a inline gun assembly and no longer needs a trap, I will have to get a very close look once I get it in hand to know for sure. :O

Talk about ironic, finding ANOTHER set with the same type tube!

I think I have a spare single ion trap in my junk boxes....If you end up needing one remind me to check.

So it's A: missing a single ion trap for a 21FP4 and I will somehow have to find one, NOT EASY! T_T or B: it was rebuilt like the one I got from dieseljeep last year, and has a inline gun assembly and no longer needs a trap, I will have to get a very close look once I get it in hand to know for sure. :O


This is a bit nit-picking but the term "inline" when speaking about CRTs usually refers to the more modern type of color CRT where the three guns sit side-by-side instead of in a delta pattern.
I think a better term would be "straight" gun as opposed to "bent" gun.

It could have a rebuilt "aluminized" tube, which needs no ion trap.

It could have a rebuilt "aluminized" tube, which needs no ion trap.

I will know once i get it in my hands :P

been looking at the sams and did see something odd.

https://i.imgur.com/adVNqf1.jpg

color converter plug?
on a 21 inch set? I wonder if they really ever made one.


and it seems that this chassis had huge sandbar resistors (3) that have a reputation of disintegrating, or so has been shown on the sets that shango066 has had shown before, and they all seem to have the same types of power systems, I'm pretty sure i will have to rebuild the voltage divider. no biggie

I should be picking up the set sometime this Sat, and once I get it home one of the first things I will do after removing the deadly asbestos from it is looking at the CRT and putting it on my B&K tester to see how good it is and try to work out no ion trap can be seen in the picture.
Also take a good close look at the FBT, remove the 5U4GB bring the heaters up slow and see if there is a good 750+ ac at the 5U4GB plates.

If you need a manual for this TV, I have the hard copy of the Sam's for this TV in my Sam's Collection that I can scan and send your way for you.

And, yes I did check to make sure it was the same unit as yours, so I didn't accidentally make the mistake I did with the guy on here that is working on the old Silvertone TV, and think I had the manual for his TV and turned out to be for another similar TV.

Houston, we have a 21FP4D !
https://i.imgur.com/5eCXbmn.jpg
It was obviously solaced at one time.

and it's good!
https://i.imgur.com/czxSDyE.jpg

the FBT looks ugly but the resistance test looks OK
https://i.imgur.com/YZwTVMG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/KKSgXFJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/66zzV80.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wezeaer.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ltHIVeP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oQpJZgJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/N4jmIbB.jpg

I dont think that motor was meant to be sitting on top of that sheet of asbestos asbestos like that :o

chassis out
https://i.imgur.com/aK2QgZX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/N3Aigae.jpg
dirty tuner

https://i.imgur.com/rhFxhT1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4fu5OTH.jpg

lots of paper caps

https://i.imgur.com/iRw0MwE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4lMsaHY.jpg
as expected, sandbars are VERY bad.

https://i.imgur.com/a2j1pCY.jpg
radio chassis

I have the SAMs for the TV but not the Radio,
have to find that somehow. :(

I HAVE THE POWER!!!!! :D

https://i.imgur.com/mtsjjJd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NZGPLNF.jpg

Now its time to get parts.

As expected, EVERY resistor in the voltage divider tree is bad, some VERY bad, even the Candohm

all the sandbars are toast.

75 ohm is testing as 560k :o

just ordered a mess of parts

If you need a manual for this TV, I have the hard copy of the Sam's for this TV in my Sam's Collection that I can scan and send your way for you.

And, yes I did check to make sure it was the same unit as yours, so I didn't accidentally make the mistake I did with the guy on here that is working on the old Silvertone TV, and think I had the manual for his TV and turned out to be for another similar TV.

does it have the part for the Radio section? I'm still missing that part T_T

Sadly, the power transformer in the radio section is very VERY dead...

https://i.imgur.com/sS6609i.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mznGDhX.jpg

Which makes finding service info for it all the more important. :sigh:

Is there a chassis number for the radio in the set, or a 'see this folder for radio' note in Sam's?
If not you could search radio consoles by that brand on the radio museum website and look for a radio with a similar face and tube compliment.
If the radio and TV don't share power supplies/audio output stages then it's almost a guarante that there was a radio (or radio/phono) only version sold.

Is there a chassis number for the radio in the set, or a 'see this folder for radio' note in Sam's?
If not you could search radio consoles by that brand on the radio museum website and look for a radio with a similar face and tube compliment.
If the radio and TV don't share power supplies/audio output stages then it's almost a guarante that there was a radio (or radio/phono) only version sold.

Can't seem to find it on RM :(

11 tubes
5U4GT
6V6G2 X2
6BA6 X3
6SN7
6BE6 6SQ7
6AL5
unmarked tube 12AT7 perhaps


https://i.imgur.com/H75zSH9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZaPPZgw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/a2j1pCY.jpg

No mention of the Radio in the SAMs, and nothing but a serial # on the radio chassis :/

I would not have thought it would be so hard to find info for the radio part :(

Granted, I am getting a bit ahead of myself, as I will be focusing on the TV part first, and this will take a while, but there is no audio output in it and it needs the radio working for sound. :(
The Hammond 290AX Power Transformer SEEMS to be the right type for it, but as in the TV, the radio also has failed candohm resistors, all burned and opened, it looks like they are what started the problem, they shorted and toasted the transformer to the point that it arced out, it looks like it almost caught fire in there, there is so much carbon.


If I can't find info on the radio ( or be pointed to where to find info ) in the time while working on the TV, I do have this to fall back on.

https://i.imgur.com/zE38A3N.jpg
the radio from the FADA, which is sort of the same. :/

did someone order a power transformer? extra crispy! :D :scratch2::lmao:

https://i.imgur.com/5mWpYbY.jpg

eek!

here is a close look at the damage under the 5U4 socket and candohm1.
https://i.imgur.com/il1O5tw.jpg
gonna need a new socket.

i removed it and took it apart.
https://i.imgur.com/HsRbW5s.jpg
TOAST
there is no info on aside from a Hoffman part # and who made it for them, LONG gone...
in the FADA radio like it, in that position the resistor is 47 ohms. but THAT setup has a filter choke where 42 ohms, this has none, and in the place where candohm2 in the Hoffman, the FADA has a 5.5k.

If i cant find info for this and go this way as done in the FADA, i may have to up the values a bit to adjust for there being no filter choke.

Correction, The transformer needed is Hammond 290CX not 290AX :O
They are pretty much the same, except for that the CX has 2 more amps on the 6.3v heater winding than the the AX, and when I added all the tubes up, it was too much of a load for the AX having only 2.25A, the CX has 4.5.

Took apart both candohm resistors, the 2nd one is mostly intact, (still bad) and seems to be about 3k, or used to be, which is very close to what is in the FADA Radio schematic (3.3k) at that point.
So, making a guess of 3-3.3k 10w chassis mount resistor for here?

Candohm 1 is completely destroyed, burned and blackened, wire on it broken in many places, looks like it was arcing.

For this, I will just have to see what works, 50/70/100 @ 10w.

There is always some give and take in tube stuff, so it should not be hard to get this going if no info on it can be found.

It's pretty clear what happened to it, capacitor failure, plus lack of fuse protection, this coupled with the fact who ever was using it was not paying attention to it and let it burn up.

Evident by the cathode capacitor for the 6V6GT has exploded, and it's paired resister is burned out.
This caused bias to raise above normal and stress already weak electrolytic capacitor,which shorted, overloading the Candohm which shorted and took out the transformer, had the makers put a fuse in there, this chain would have been broken.

Oh well. :(

Mouser is about to ship the parts for the TV chassis.
So I can get a start on that, at least.

The first TV I ever worked on professionally was an RCA portable. The owner had allowed a beer to spill down the back which found its way into the power transformer. It looked like the power transformer out of this radio Yamamaya is working on. Fortunately, the electrolytics and the power resistors were OK. I also had to replace the safety glass. There was a circle shaped indention in the safety glass which roughly approximated the bottom of a beer can. Hmmm.

“ cathode capacitor for the 6V6GT has exploded, and it's paired resister is burned out.”

Imho, a shorted or gassy 6V6 might have started the whole unfortunate chain of events :scratch2:

jr

FOUND IT!!!!
SAMMs 221-6
however this Set seems to be a hybrid... :O

I look up the chassis number on the sticker on the back of the unit and get pointed to SAMs 201-5
which has just the TV, and pretty much matches.
But just by sheer luck I found the combo 221-6 which has the radio and phono, TV is almost the same, slight differences.

Weird.
It says candohm 1 500 ohms 7.8 watts, candohm 2 2.6k 6.5 watts.

Transformer
sec1
695vct .130ADC
sec2
5vac 3A
sec3
6.3vac 3.7A

Hammond 290CX specs
650/550Vct @ 100 mA
Secondary 3 6.3Vct @ 4.5A
Secondary 4 5V @3A

https://i.imgur.com/FWTzNOB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ArZ74fk.jpg

all prepped and ready to haul upstairs to my work room!

A bit of more good news for the Radio section, now that I have the Sams, i was able to check the Audio output transformer , and it seems OK, it says DC resistance @ 380 ohms and my DVM says 355, so I guess it was not damaged! :banana:

I do wonder about the strange white stuff that I saw on the FBT, not seen that before.

But as mentioned, the general resistance check seemed OK going by what was in the SAMs, just not sure what to make of it.

Just wait till I get horz/HV up, see what happens?

Give it a good deep coating of super corona dope and then try?

Whatever that white crud is, I'm kinda afraid to touch it for fear of causing unneeded damage, but I don't think a few layers of SCD would hurt.

And if all fails, and the FBT is problematic, ETF does have 3 compatible replacements.

some more good news,
I MAY not have to buy a power transformer

this MAY work.

https://i.imgur.com/pteUqEl.jpg

restoration started.

https://i.imgur.com/UcO6drS.jpg
before

https://i.imgur.com/0eEXVCG.jpg
after
notice the exploded bumble bee :O

https://i.imgur.com/VC2A2bR.jpg

chassis out
https://i.imgur.com/aK2QgZX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/N3Aigae.jpg
dirty tuner

https://i.imgur.com/rhFxhT1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4fu5OTH.jpg

lots of paper caps

https://i.imgur.com/iRw0MwE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4lMsaHY.jpg
as expected, sandbars are VERY bad.

https://i.imgur.com/a2j1pCY.jpg
radio chassis

I have the SAMs for the TV but not the Radio,
have to find that somehow. :(

The Sam's I have I think has the radio chassis covered in it, I can send you the radio portion of the service data. :yes:

does it have the part for the Radio section? I'm still missing that part T_T

Yes, I believe it does, I'll take a look for sure.

My Sam's stash seems to be an odd mixture of Midwest, East Coast and West Coast makers, which is kind of odd, seeing as they came from a shop here in the Midwest... :scratch2:

Yes, I believe it does, I'll take a look for sure.

My Sam's stash seems to be an odd mixture of Midwest, East Coast and West Coast makers, which is kind of odd, seeing as they came from a shop here in the Midwest... :scratch2:

I did eventually find it, it's spread between 2 separate SAMs folders.

the TV chassis matches what is in 201-5 but is the TV only, no Radio. :(

just by random chance looking on eBay I spotted the right folder for the combo 221-6 which has the radio but does NOT match the TV chassis.
close, but has critical differences

OK... this is a bit strange...

the SYNC SEP circuit has been altered. :O

https://i.imgur.com/wYtJAc5.jpg

clearly at one point, a resistor fried and was fixed, bit they never removed the burned one, SLOPPY!! ( Crappy soldering too )

BUT

https://i.imgur.com/KqSbiF6.jpg
SAMs shows a 82k to power and 18k pulldown.

but what is in there NOW is 820k and 1m :O
hmmm

leave as is? or put it like it says in the SAMs? :O

Leave it. The set worked with it that way and it could have been a production change. If you have sync problems later you know one place to look.

I did eventually find it, it's spread between 2 separate SAMs folders.

the TV chassis matches what is in 201-5 but is the TV only, no Radio. :(

just by random chance looking on eBay I spotted the right folder for the combo 221-6 which has the radio but does NOT match the TV chassis.
close, but has critical differences

221-6 is the one I have, so I could send you the Radio portion of the Sam's I have, and you could use the TV portion you have and you should be able to get by with those two. :yes: :thmbsp:

It's alive!! It's alive!! hahahahahaha!

- does best Frankenstein laugh

https://i.imgur.com/RZwqCKc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/afNm19c.jpg

I have reached my week 1 goal of being able to power it up far enough to see Horz sweep at the HOT.

next is getting HV up.

still more caps to replace :o

221-6 is the one I have, so I could send you the Radio portion of the Sam's I have, and you could use the TV portion you have and you should be able to get by with those two. :yes: :thmbsp:

i was able to get both folders from the Sams site, tks for the offer.

i was able to get both folders from the Sams site, tks for the offer.

No problem.

Im just curious, but what was different between your unit and what was in the Sam's Folder that was supposed to be for your unit as far as the TV section went?

I'm asking because if it was something like the tuner being a different unit than used in yours or a slightly different tube line-up than yours had but the overall circuit layout was the same then I would just use the Sam's for the combo unit and just note on the Sam's the differences (whether it be tube line-up differences or tuner difference or whatever) and you should be good to go.

I've had to do that plenty of times myself when I've worked on some of my old radios in my collection where there were some slight component differences from the service data I had on hand but the basic circuit layout was the same (my RCA 5T was one example) and all I had to do was just note on my service data that there were some slight production changes made to the unit between the time the service data was made and the time that my unit was made that didn't make it into the service data.

No problem.

Im just curious, but what was different between your unit and what was in the Sam's Folder that was supposed to be for your unit as far as the TV section went?

I'm asking because if it was something like the tuner being a different unit than used in yours or a slightly different tube line-up than yours had but the overall circuit layout was the same then I would just use the Sam's for the combo unit and just note on the Sam's the differences (whether it be tube line-up differences or tuner difference or whatever) and you should be good to go.

I've had to do that plenty of times myself when I've worked on some of my old radios in my collection where there were some slight component differences from the service data I had on hand but the basic circuit layout was the same (my RCA 5T was one example) and all I had to do was just note on my service data that there were some slight production changes made to the unit between the time the service data was made and the time that my unit was made that didn't make it into the service data.


Differences in the voltage divider layout and filter caps used, slight diff in Vert & horz out circuit.
Video out also different, 6AH6 VS 6CB6.
And yes, tuner is different,
just slight changes all over, enough to be annoying! :P

Differences in the voltage divider layout and filter caps used, slight diff in Vert & horz out circuit.
Video out also different, 6AH6 VS 6CB6.
And yes, tuner is different,
just slight changes all over, enough to be annoying! :P

OK, that's what I thought, basically just some minor production changes that were probably made after the Sam's was produced and they never released an update, which was very common back then. :yes:

Which I agree is very annoying, but we have to work with what we have, just like they did in the old days.

Worked to getting HV up today, many more caps replaced.

first try FAILED, something arced out, blew the fuse.
https://i.imgur.com/zyBbJlE.jpg

saw the wires to the yoke was crap, gonna have to re-wire it :(

made sure it was not touching anything.

https://i.imgur.com/8DBng45.jpg

I have HV! :banana:

That's good to hear, I'm glad you were able to figure it out. :thmbsp:

We have raster!

https://i.imgur.com/BVKR1Hv.jpg

No video yet, this is nothing new, IF is down, have seen this before, gonna have to hunt for bad resistors.

most likely many of the cathode resistors in the IF section are WAY out of tol.
i have seen this in every set so far.

Did a quick spot check last night, and was not surprised to find what I had seen before, the 68 ohm cathode resistors we checking at 84-87 or higher, well out of the 5% that is in there, or the 10-20% that some may say that it may still work somewhat with.
Not sure why it's always the resistors in THIS area that go bad the most, but it does seem to be the case, for some odd reason.

Another thing noticed of the differences between the chassis shown in the combo unit listed in the SAMs, and what I have in reality, the SAMs combo has a 45.75MHZ IF, but this one has 25.5. Even though both seem to be dated 1953.

Went over all resistors in the IF and found only 4 that were really bad, 40% over, not replaced yet, will do tonight.

Cleaned tuner and tried to tune in signal from TV pattern generator with sweep disabled, was able to see SOMETHING trying to come in on video output, but with the IF & tuner tubes in an unknown state, ( NOS ones ordered ) it's hard to tell, also w/o sweep, AGC is not working, leaving the front end a bit deaf, I'll have to see when I get the big CRT back in it, and all sweep up safely if the tuning perks up.

In the mid 50s some brands (Admiral was notorious for this) used BOTH IF frequencies on the same chassis and which one you got depended on whether the set was optioned with UHF (the 45MHz IF models) or not. Sam's typically bought one specimen and usually got all the options so they could document all the optional equipment.

I just seem to have a weird combo unit, or one that was not seen exactly by SAMs, the one they cover has a 199 chassis, but mine has a 192.
And as mentioned, the 192 version is in a separate folder, NONE of which list the RCA 21FP4D as the CRT, leading me to think it has been replaced at one time.
Luck, I guess?

MAJOR LEAP AHEAD!

https://i.imgur.com/Po94lAa.jpg

VIDEO TIME!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jTC83TOeRY

Now with Sound!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6abTcMTjmxk

I see an IF alignment in Its future!

So, next step with this is I guess is to bring up the severely damaged radio section.

The TV section has run OK for a while with no major problems and seems to be stable, aside from the slight video smearing / ringing that changes with fine tuning, this I hope to improve with IF alignment.
But, as before, having no sweep marker generator and just a digital RF function generator, I can only do the general MIN/MAX adjustments, and not the overall video IF response check where the response curve is plotted.
But I'm hoping to get SOME improvement with the VOM method, I just wish one did not have to remove the CRT to do it, but there is just no way to get to the coils with it in, it's almost, but not quite impossible take the IF tubes in/out with the CRT in, the spacing is so tight!

As for the Radio, as mentioned, I will be using the very old Sansui P-130 power transformer I have, to replace the burned original, of which I can find no info online, but it seems close to use voltage wise.
I have decided NOT TO wire in the damaged 5u4gb area, I will leave it bypassed, but may wire up the heaters only.
In its place I will use a pair of BYV26E-TR diodes, this obviously will raise the bias a bit, and thus have to raise R160 candohm resistor's replacement (500 ohms) till the bias is in the right range.

So, next step with this is I guess is to bring up the severely damaged radio section.

The TV section has run OK for a while with no major problems and seems to be stable, aside from the slight video smearing / ringing that changes with fine tuning, this I hope to improve with IF alignment.
But, as before, having no sweep marker generator and just a digital RF function generator, I can only do the general MIN/MAX adjustments, and not the overall video IF response check where the response curve is plotted.
But I'm hoping to get SOME improvement with the VOM method, I just wish one did not have to remove the CRT to do it, but there is just no way to get to the coils with it in, it's almost, but not quite impossible take the IF tubes in/out with the CRT in, the spacing is so tight!

As for the Radio, as mentioned, I will be using the very old Sansui P-130 power transformer I have, to replace the burned original, of which I can find no info online, but it seems close to use voltage wise.
I have decided NOT TO wire in the damaged 5u4gb area, I will leave it bypassed, but may wire up the heaters only.
In its place I will use a pair of BYV26E-TR diodes, this obviously will raise the bias a bit, and thus have to raise R160 candohm resistor's replacement (500 ohms) till the bias is in the right range.

I know what you mean about tight spacing around tubes in old TVs. I had a few sets like that, years ago, such as a Philco console in which some of the tubes were located almost directly below the CRT bell, with the chassis in the cabinet, not to mention portables with very small cabinets. How these tubes survived, being just a few inches below the CRT, not to mention escaping interference from the charge on the bell, is beyond me, although the TV did seem to work normally. Why my Philco TV was designed as it was, being a console, however, is beyond me as well, since there seemed to be more than enough space inside the cabinet to keep the tubes, every one of them, spaced well apart from one another. I can see tight tube spacing in small portable TVs, but for crying out loud, not in a 21-inch console. As I said, how the tubes which were just under (!) the CRT escaped interference is more than I will ever know at this point.

That Philco TV worked great once I did get it working, but unfortunately the CRT socket eventually came unglued, all but forcing me to remove the socket and hard-wire the signal leads from the TV chassis to the bare wires from the CRT neck. The TV worked for some time after that, though I'm darned if I know why it worked as well as it did; however, one day one of the wires broke off, leaving only a very short stub, impossible to solder to. Even if the stub had been long enough to solder a wire to, I would have been afraid to do it for fear of cracking the glass around the base (actually, the end of the CRT neck, as I had removed the tube base altogether), or worse.

BTW, I'm glad you are making progress with your TV, and have gotten it working fairly well. I hope you can get the radio working as well without too much trouble, although I wonder about the power transformer you will be using with the latter. How old is that transformer? If it is more than a few years old, I would be concerned about the condition of the windings; after all, if the transformer is vely old (say 20 years or more), the insulation on the windings may be crumbling and could cause a serious short inside the transformer. I would test the transformer before installing it, just to be safe. As well as your restoration project seems to be progressing, it would be a crying shame if the transformer would short and burn up some or all of the wiring under the chassis, if the set's line fuse doesn't blow first.

https://i.imgur.com/4Mu1RTy.jpg

mostly cleaned chassis many burned wires still.

Sansui trans installed.

https://i.imgur.com/Oyh9YoN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gpt7k44.jpg

Been thinking about how to mod the PWS in the radio, but truth is, until I try, I wont really know for sure how it will behave.

The Sansui p-130 transformer has a bias out of 350ac vs the orig 340ac, and the BYV26E-TR diodes have forward voltage of 2.5v vs the 40ish of the 5u4gb, the SAMs shows the rectified voltage was 390v originally, this will jump up quite a bit, however, rather than having the xformer center tap direct to gnd, I will stick in a 200 ohm 20 watt, and the first candohm resistor has been changed from 500 to 600 ohms.
Will just have to play with it and see what happens.

Been thinking about how to mod the PWS in the radio, but truth is, until I try, I wont really know for sure how it will behave.

The Sansui p-130 transformer has a bias out of 350ac vs the orig 340ac, and the BYV26E-TR diodes have forward voltage of 2.5v vs the 40ish of the 5u4gb, the SAMs shows the rectified voltage was 390v originally, this will jump up quite a bit

Why not use the 300 volt taps on the hv (350V) secondary? Might work about right with the reduced ss diode forward drop. :scratch2:

jr

Why not use the 300 volt taps on the hv (350V) secondary? Might work about right with the reduced ss diode forward drop. :scratch2:

jr

did not think about it that way, it my work with the original resistor setup.

will try. :D

https://i.imgur.com/qyliiDl.jpg

primary and heater strings hooked up!

we now have glow!

I did find a bad 6V6GT, did not light up but got hot.

not sure if it was the cause of the x-former burn out or symptom of cascade of problems that were in a chain of problems.

the Radio lives!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGG5g1z25Dk

Mostly!

AM/FM is very weak, I was working to get the amp working mostly.
have not looked for bad resistors yet, there are no doubt bad ones in the IF as always...

If there's an AM loop antenna in the cabinet it may need it to perform good on AM...FM also may benefit from an antenna but it usually doesn't need that much wire to make FM happy.

If there's an AM loop antenna in the cabinet it may need it to perform good on AM...FM also may benefit from an antenna but it usually doesn't need that much wire to make FM happy.

It does, but I'm sure there is bum resistors, like the 68 ohm cathode resistors that i seem to always find bad

Also, I need to balance the outputs, one tube is running a tad bit hotter, this I'm sure because I have not replaced the G1 resistors yet 470k to gnd one tests pretty close, the other at 525k not TOO bad, but it prob explains why that tube is hotter.

I was focused mainly on fixing the broken blown transformer and replacing caps and getting it working, looking for bad resistors is next.

BTW, I saw your video about the phones, your workspace is about as clean as mine!

I have an old telephone magneto that I got from my grandpa long ago, I doubt many know how much fun you can have with them!

Well, it ran for a while, then it stopped. :(

The cheapy China 500 ohm 10W resistor that was in there ( which I doubt was really 10w) burned open.
It was replacing a resistor rated at 7.8W, and the silly thing was sitting on the side of the chassis, but it still could not take the strain, I have another one, but I doubt I will put it in, cause it seems more like a 5W to me due to its small size, and the just over sold the rating.

I have the 600 ohm 10W in there now, and it seems fine, still just as loud, and it does seem to be a REAL 10W one, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-RS10-600

As for the 2.6k power resistor, I could not find one in the exact rating needed, so I used, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/279-THS101K5J & https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/588-40J1K1E
both rated at 10W the original being rated 6.5W.
I doubt that they are being pushed to the limit.
Where as the chassis mount resistors were tacked down to help cool them, there is no real way to do that to the other kind, unless thermal cement is used, but is such a thing needed?

Amp still OK, but no radio.

It does get rather toasty!

Even the 5u4gb with just heaters running gets quite hot.
Not sure if the tuner tubes are good or not at this point, but since the main goal was the TV section, not sure if I want to put in all NOS ones just to try to get it up.
I did not have any 6BA6 tubes that it uses 3 of ( AM RF AMP, 1ST & 2ND AM/FM IF AMP), so I stuck in 3 NOS 6AU6 which is said to be a sub, also a NOS 6AL5 ratio det.
Made no diff whatsoever.
The 6SQ7 AM DET AVC 1ST AF AMP is prob OK, cause amp is working fine.

Unknown
12AT7 FM RF AMP/ MIXER
6BE6 FM OSC AM CONV

I'm just going to have to methodically go over every resistor in the radio section this weekend and see what I find before I think of getting any NOS tubes for it.
A quick check showed plate voltages to be a bit high, by about 55v in the radio area, but normal in the amp.
Not sure if this is due to weak/bad tubes or bad resistors or both.

OH YEAH!

https://i.imgur.com/1fCV2DL.jpg

bad resistors !


That SHOULD BE 56k....
and the unreadable one under it, should be 1m tests at 1.6m :o

no wonder the damn thing dont work!

have only found 3 really bad resistors, but replacing them has not helped.

new tubes on the way
6BA6 1st/2nd am/fm IF and AM RF amp, 6BE6. FM OSC and AM conv. and 12AT7 FM RF AMP/MIXER.
if this does not get the radio working, I will just give up on it. as the TV was the main goal anyway.

have only found 3 really bad resistors, but replacing them has not helped.

new tubes on the way
6BA6 1st/2nd am/fm IF and AM RF amp, 6BE6. FM OSC and AM conv. and 12AT7 FM RF AMP/MIXER.
if this does not get the radio working, I will just give up on it. as the TV was the main goal anyway.

If I would of known you needed some tubes I had a whole ton of 6BE6 and 6BA6 tubes as well as a bunch of 12AT7 tubes that all test like brand new yet (they were pulled from radios that I was unable to get going electrically but the tubes were still good) that I could of sent you a couple of each for the cost of shipping.

But anyways it's good to hear you're making progress with this radio.

I'm curious is this the same unit as the one Shango has that he is planning on working on in one of his future videos that he picked up in one of his TV pick runs?

If I would of known you needed some tubes I had a whole ton of 6BE6 and 6BA6 tubes as well as a bunch of 12AT7 tubes that all test like brand new yet (they were pulled from radios that I was unable to get going electrically but the tubes were still good) that I could of sent you a couple of each for the cost of shipping.

But anyways it's good to hear you're making progress with this radio.

I'm curious is this the same unit as the one Shango has that he is planning on working on in one of his future videos that he picked up in one of his TV pick runs?

sort of, but 5 years newer, with a 21 rectangle CRT, but made very much the same way.

sort of, but 5 years newer, with a 21 rectangle CRT, but made very much the same way.

OK, I was wondering about that, because I know Hoffman was an L. A. area manufacturer that seems to come up a lot in Shango's videos (another brand is Packard-Bell.)

have only found 3 really bad resistors, but replacing them has not helped.

new tubes on the way
6BA6 1st/2nd am/fm IF and AM RF amp, 6BE6. FM OSC and AM conv. and 12AT7 FM RF AMP/MIXER.
if this does not get the radio working, I will just give up on it. as the TV was the main goal anyway.

Is the radio working at all, or is it completely silent? If it is still silent after you replace the tubes you mentioned, I would check one more thing before giving up: the antenna connections. If these are disconnected or the antenna itself has a poor or outright open connection, your set's radio will not work at all, unless you are in an extremely strong signal area, and even then you may receive only a small number of stations. However, as I said, the first thing I would do would be to replace the three tubes you mentioned, as one of them may be weak or burned out. If any of the tubes you mention are defective in any way, you will either lose reception altogether or, if you hear anything, the signals will be very weak and noisy.

The radio in your Hoffman console should work very well, as the set was made in 1953, when not every city or town in the United States had local radio. Because of this, the sets had to be, and generally were, built for DX (reception of radio stations located some distance from the set's own location); this is why I say the radio in your console should, indeed must, work almost exceedingly well. In radio's very early days, the first sets were crystal sets with no amplification, so a very good antenna had to be used in order to get any reception at all. My first crystal set was hooked up to a 50-foot (more or less) long-wire antenna and received one local station located only a mile or two from where I lived at the time. However, I will never forget one night right after that station signed off for the night (it was a 500-watt daytime-only operation in a Cleveland suburb). I heard the local station sign off, then, to my dumbfounded surprise, I heard, very weakly, one or two local Cleveland stations in my headphones, one on top of the other (crystal radios are anything but selective).

Is the radio working at all, or is it completely silent?



completely silent.

both AM/FM

though slight hiss heard in FM, and when I tap the FM aunt terminals with something metal I get some kind of sound change.
tubes will be shipped snail mail mon/tue

completely silent.

both AM/FM

though slight hiss heard in FM, and when I tap the FM aunt terminals with something metal I get some kind of sound change.
tubes will be shipped snail mail mon/tue

That's good to know. I hope the new tubes get your Hoffman console's radio working again. If you can hear a slight hiss on FM, and you hear a slight change in that hiss when you touch the FM antenna terminals with a screwdriver or anything metal, all is not lost.

As I said, the new tubes should restore normal operation; if not, I don't know what else could be causing the problem. If there is no reception on both AM and FM, and new tubes do not get things going again, the problem must be in a part of the radio (other than tubes) which is common to both bands. I've been away from electronics too long (I had to give up my workshop when I moved from my former home to an apartment over 20 years ago) to be able to offer any further advice.

Now the interesting thing is that I had a late 1940s vintage Westinghouse AM/FM Radio (a Model H-1821) that had a similar problem (no signal being picked up on either AM or FM) and I tried replacing several of the IF, RF and Audio tubes and even recapped and replaced all out of tolerance resistors and nothing fixed the issue, (I suspected that either one of the oscillator coils was bad or a bad antenna coil or maybe a bad IF can, but either way the radio was a total loss so I just salvaged the cord, pilot light and the tubes from the unit and scrapped it out, because if it was one of the IF cans or coils that was bad there was no way I would of found replacements for it as they were an oddball style of coils and cans.)

So with that in mind, and I hope that isn't what's wrong with your radio, but I would check the antenna or oscillator coils first and then if those check out then check the IF cans.

I'm still tending to think (hope) that it's a symptom of bad/weak tubes, all I can tell is that all the general voltages in the RF/IF area are there, but 50-55 volts higher than shown in the schematic.

If there was an open coil, there would be a missing plate bias, and all are there.
YES, the power supply has been changed due to the burn out, but I doubt that is the problem here.

300acv tap is being used, rather than 340v original, 1kv 1a silicon diodes rather than 5U4GB, first resistor in voltage divider changed from 500 to 600 ohms.

Amp section working flawlessly.
Even if I lower the main input to 70-75v, it makes no difference, Amp still happy, raidio quiet.
USPS says the ordered ones will be here in 2 days, will just have to keep fingers crossed.

Shame that I don't have easy access to a tester here, :(

In my experience RF/IF stages usually work better with excessive B+... About 5 years ago I got a trio of Sherwood tuners and one had one had a dead power transformer...I cobbled up a replacement but had ~50V too much B+ IIRC. It worked NOTICABLY better than the stock one.

Radio is alive!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lje6Zb-WLv8

it WAS bad tubes!

namely the 6BE6.

It's quiet easy to push this little amp into clipping, not that I expect much from this hoffman made thing.
15 amps max.
It was not made to do very much

turntable now working.

was in pieces when i got it.

https://i.imgur.com/oQpJZgJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/l6wpJFo.jpg

the Shure Crystal cartridge in there was quite deaf, and i was NOT about to pay $100+ for a replacement for something that would be rarely used, this is just for looks, eye candy, so I got a CHEAP ceramic one ($10) and glued it in place! :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZ4fX4Akdxo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6A0UguQTV4

All done, for now, radio (FM) & Phonograph working, AM still a bit weird, but that will almost never be used.
Sensitivity and accuracy of the FM is impressive for something this old.
However, as mentioned the performance of the 6V6 outputs is rather sad, but not surprising, seeing that in this configuration it's rated at 14W max @ like 5-10% distortion? And that I'm sure would be with tubes in excellent condition, which I do NOT have.
May be able to get SOME improvement by a NOS phase inverter (6SN7GT) & MP6V6, but most likely not worth it at this point for something that will be used mostly for TV sound.

Speaking of which, the next phase of all this is trying to clear up the video on the TV by IF alignment, no easy task, with just a voltmeter and a digital RFfrequency generator.

https://youtu.be/DMDs4f7zv9M

all together now!

As you can see, the set is pretty close to done, just a few minor things to do to it left.

I decided NOT to attempt an IF alignment on it after seeing the video was cleaner on CH4 than 3, and may even be better on higher channels, and chances were 50/50 of making it worse/better w/o correct equipment, as sweep marker generators for 45.75mhz are sill around, but 25.5mhz is almost, but not quite unobtainium.
The picture it produces now is pretty good for it's age, just some slight ringing seen in it, not TOO bad, if I wanted it any better at this point, I'd have to make up a video amp and boost the composite input to 5v P2P, and right now, it's not really worth it.

All that remains to be done now is to replace the asbestos DEATH sheet heat shield that was above the AMP/Radio unit, that thing puts out a HECK of a lot of heat, perhaps add a fan to it, add a secondary grounding wire between all the chassis units, and add a master power strip, I don't like how it was all originally daisy chained.

As you can see, the set is pretty close to done, just a few minor things to do to it left.

I decided NOT to attempt an IF alignment on it after seeing the video was cleaner on CH4 than 3, and may even be better on higher channels, and chances were 50/50 of making it worse/better w/o correct equipment, as sweep marker generators for 45.75mhz are sill around, but 25.5mhz is almost, but not quite unobtainium.
The picture it produces now is pretty good for it's age, just some slight ringing seen in it, not TOO bad, if I wanted it any better at this point, I'd have to make up a video amp and boost the composite input to 5v P2P, and right now, it's not really worth it.

All that remains to be done now is to replace the asbestos DEATH sheet heat shield that was above the AMP/Radio unit, that thing puts out a HECK of a lot of heat, perhaps add a fan to it, add a secondary grounding wire between all the chassis units, and add a master power strip, I don't like how it was all originally daisy chained.

On most of the radios I've worked on that had a sheet of asbestos in the cabinet as a heat shield, I usually just leave it be if its still in good shape (which is usually the case 95% of the time on the radios I've worked on) because they say that as long as the asbestos isn't disturbed or flaking then you're ok to leave it in place, otherwise if its been disturbed, damaged or otherwise compromised then that's when you have to remove it.

As for disposal I don't know what the rules are for where you live, but where I live usually you just take the asbestos put it into a plastic bag and seal it up like you would any other garbage bag and then throw it in the trash dumpster, or take it to your local sanitary landfill to dispose of it.

Anyways I'm glad you got it up and running. :thmbsp:

On most of the radios I've worked on that had a sheet of asbestos in the cabinet as a heat shield, I usually just leave it be if its still in good shape (which is usually the case 95% of the time on the radios I've worked on) because they say that as long as the asbestos isn't disturbed or flaking then you're ok to leave it in place, otherwise if its been disturbed, damaged or otherwise compromised then that's when you have to remove it.

As for disposal I don't know what the rules are for where you live, but where I live usually you just take the asbestos put it into a plastic bag and seal it up like you would any other garbage bag and then throw it in the trash dumpster, or take it to your local sanitary landfill to dispose of it.

Anyways I'm glad you got it up and running. :thmbsp:

https://i.imgur.com/N4jmIbB.jpg

it clearly was NOT in good shape! :thumbsdn:

side by side!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLFuTNtgOm4

side by side!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLFuTNtgOm4

I just saw this post and am glad you are getting that 1953 Hoffman TV working. The only thing I would be concerned about is the fact that the picture does not fill the screen, due to the difference in aspect ratio. On a modern, flat screen TV this wouldn't be a problem, but with a TV which was made long before HDTV, any image having a 16:9 aspect ratio will produce a picture similar to a 4:3 TV with insufficient vertical sweep. This could and likely will cause screen burns at the top and bottom of the screen; of course, these screen burns will damage the tube in a short period of time. I would be very careful about this, as I don't know if replacements for the CRTs in either TV (or any CRT TV, for that matter) are even available any longer.

I don't know where you are getting the images you are displaying on your Hoffman combo and the other TV shown in your post but I would suggest, if you are using a DVD player, setting the device to "zoom" so the image will in fact fill the screen. This will prevent screen burns and, again, certain damage to a CRT which may or may not be available any longer, as I mentioned above.

This could and likely will cause screen burns at the top and bottom of the screen; of course, these screen burns will damage the tube in a short period of time.

Um, , , , nope, ya got it backwards :nono:

Since the top and bottom of the screen are NOT being illuminated, how in the Hell could the phosphors there be burned? If anything, it would be the middle area of the screen which IS being illuminated that would see degradation of the phosphors that the top & bottom wouldn't, but not at the doom & gloom rate that your trying to convey here :twak:

I just saw this post and am glad you are getting that 1953 Hoffman TV working. The only thing I would be concerned about is the fact that the picture does not fill the screen, due to the difference in aspect ratio. On a modern, flat screen TV this wouldn't be a problem, but with a TV which was made long before HDTV, any image having a 16:9 aspect ratio will produce a picture similar to a 4:3 TV with insufficient vertical sweep. This could and likely will cause screen burns at the top and bottom of the screen; of course, these screen burns will damage the tube in a short period of time. I would be very careful about this, as I don't know if replacements for the CRTs in either TV (or any CRT TV, for that matter) are even available any longer.

I don't know where you are getting the images you are displaying on your Hoffman combo and the other TV shown in your post but I would suggest, if you are using a DVD player, setting the device to "zoom" so the image will in fact fill the screen. This will prevent screen burns and, again, certain damage to a CRT which may or may not be available any longer, as I mentioned above.

that is an automatic "feature" of the cable box that is being used to feed all the TVs i have, when it goes from a HDTV source, it does an automatic letterbox mode if the source was NOT hd, then it would fill the screen, the risk of any kind of burn in is very very small, as the full screen is still being scanned, and would have to be run in letterbox mode for many hours to have any bad effect.

Still not happy with the way the amp in the radio sounds, just distorts too easily.
YES, it's only about 10w max if even that, but dang, it sounds rough.
But before I go investing in a pair of $55+ audiophile 6V6GT outputs, or a new Hammond 1609a output transformer to replace the old one that may/may not be damaged, ($100+), gonna spend $20 to update what's already done.
https://i.imgur.com/hDSVECe.jpg

As said before, the 5U4 is out of the circuit and replaced with silicon diodes, the secondary is now tapped at 300vac , r 160 was replaced with a 600 ohm resistor.
The 20uf (450v) caps were replaced with 22uf @ 450v, although I saw no sign of ripple, I am upgrading caps at A & B to 39uf, the paper caps that were replaced, C148,149,150,151, all came from a kit, cheap, but I never had a problem with them so far.
They came in 2 volt ranges, 400v & 650v, the .001s were in the correct range, the .022 was not, so right now there are 2 400v .047s in series, (0.0235), not sure if this matters much at all, BUT, I'm gonna replace all 4 of them again with precision Panasonic caps 5%.
I only found 1 bad resistor, r157, aside from the burned up r158, both of which are new, but I'm also replacing all the 20% 470k 47k ones with 2%, even though they checked OK while I have it apart again.
I really have no idea if this will make any difference or not, It's a Mystery, Charlie Brown!

If you have a two channel scope, try connecting to the grids of the output tubes, and invert the one input. That might reveal a bad phase inverter section (try at low, and distorting volume, with a freq generator.

Also, I once fed an output transformer from the speaker end and looked at the playes (obviously, power OFF).

Something to think about

Still not happy with the way the amp in the radio sounds, just distorts too easily.
YES, it's only about 10w max if even that, but dang, it sounds rough.
But before I go investing in a pair of $55+ audiophile 6V6GT outputs, or a new Hammond 1609a output transformer to replace the old one that may/may not be damaged, ($100+), gonna spend $20 to update what's already done.
https://i.imgur.com/hDSVECe.jpg

As said before, the 5U4 is out of the circuit and replaced with silicon diodes, the secondary is now tapped at 300vac , r 160 was replaced with a 600 ohm resistor.
The 20uf (450v) caps were replaced with 22uf @ 450v, although I saw no sign of ripple, I am upgrading caps at A & B to 39uf, the paper caps that were replaced, C148,149,150,151, all came from a kit, cheap, but I never had a problem with them so far.
They came in 2 volt ranges, 400v & 650v, the .001s were in the correct range, the .022 was not, so right now there are 2 400v .047s in series, (0.0235), not sure if this matters much at all, BUT, I'm gonna replace all 4 of them again with precision Panasonic caps 5%.
I only found 1 bad resistor, r157, aside from the burned up r158, both of which are new, but I'm also replacing all the 20% 470k 47k ones with 2%, even though they checked OK while I have it apart again.
I really have no idea if this will make any difference or not, It's a Mystery, Charlie Brown!

If you need some 6V6s I have about 20 of them all of them test like new yet and are all pulls from radios that I ended up junking out because they had bad power transformers or output transformers or other issues (also some of them came to me from people who just gave me old boxes of tubes that they found at estate sales beause they knew I fixed old tube radios and could use them.
I've actually got a couple of matched sets of Sylvania and RCA and GE badged 6V6 GT tubes and I also have a matched set of Zenith 6V6G tubes that were pulled from my old Zenith 10S690 radio that I gutted, I've also got a matched set of 6V6GTs that are badged Capehart that came out of an old Capehart all-in-one Console from the late 1940s or early 1950s, so lots of possiblities, just let me know and I can send you some for the cost of shipping. :thmbsp:

If you need some 6V6s I have about 20 of them all of them test like new yet and are all pulls from radios that I ended up junking out because they had bad power transformers or output transformers or other issues (also some of them came to me from people who just gave me old boxes of tubes that they found at estate sales beause they knew I fixed old tube radios and could use them.
I've actually got a couple of matched sets of Sylvania and RCA and GE badged 6V6 GT tubes and I also have a matched set of Zenith 6V6G tubes that were pulled from my old Zenith 10S690 radio that I gutted, I've also got a matched set of 6V6GTs that are badged Capehart that came out of an old Capehart all-in-one Console from the late 1940s or early 1950s, so lots of possiblities, just let me know and I can send you some for the cost of shipping. :thmbsp:

Thanks for the offer, :)

I wish I had seen it BEFORE i had ordered the set of new jj 6v6GT matched pair Friday, but Oh well.

I did put in the 2 bigger filter caps (39uF 500V) and the Panasonic film caps replacing the cheap generic ones, also put in the 1% grid resistors, BUT, i also found that I missed a bad resistor before, and that was the 47k resistor on the cathode of the phase inverter, (r154) which was up at 168k, all of this has made a noticeable improvement, but I can still push it in to clipping, and I can obviously push the 12 inch speaker too hard, I'm sure i reaching the limit of what this amp was meant to do, and it was not very much, as I noted before, the output transformer seems REALLY small.

I just picked up a Hoffman Super Receiver Mark V . TV,radio,record payer. I plugged it in and the set turned on and crt lite up very bright and radio turned on. I tested the crt and came back very very good, Fly back and yoke look like they need to be replaced. Are these parts replaceable? I would like to get the chassis rebuilt. Any suggestions??

I just picked up a Hoffman Super Receiver Mark V . TV,radio,record payer. I plugged it in and the set turned on and crt lite up very bright and radio turned on. I tested the crt and came back very very good, Fly back and yoke look like they need to be replaced. Are these parts replaceable? I would like to get the chassis rebuilt. Any suggestions??

Perhaps, the “Hoffman Super Receiver Mark V” encompasses many versions of the same console over several years, if you DO indeed need parts like a FBT or yoke, it's best to find the service info matching the MO# printed on the TV chassis. Like a matching
SAMS folder, which will have a list of sub parts in it, and HOPE you can find them someplace.

I just picked up a Hoffman Super Receiver Mark V . TV,radio,record payer. I plugged it in and the set turned on and crt lite up very bright and radio turned on. I tested the crt and came back very very good, Fly back and yoke look like they need to be replaced. Are these parts replaceable? I would like to get the chassis rebuilt. Any suggestions??

If the CRT screen lights up then the flyback and yoke in it are just fine and do not need replacing.
The cosmetic condition of a flyback and yoke have no bearing on how well they will work or how long they will last.

I'm still not happy with the way this little 6V6 amp in this Hoffman Super Receiver Mark V underperforms, hardly 10w, if even that, and with distortion.

So I'm gonna do something a bit off the wall.
Last week, I got one of my old Dynaco mark iii monoblock amps out of storage and got it working, did not take much, just had to replace the main milti electrolytic capacitor, all other parts were still good.

First test.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K64Haxpiogo

Will do a full blown test with large speakers this weekend.

Hooking it to the Hoffman should be rather easy.
https://www.thetubestore.com/lib/thetubestore/schematics/Dynaco/Dynaco-DYNAKIT-MK-3-Schematic-Owners-Manual.pdf
https://imgur.com/hDSVECe

Remove V31 in Hoffman amp, use old dead tube's plug to adapt to socket to make coaxial cable going to pin 1 and ground with rca connector for Dynaco input.

I foresee no problems other than finding a speaker big enough to take 60w! :)

done

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8L-zdKnmXEA

My Hoffman works, but not as well as it could. SHOULD.
As is in it is not as clear/ sharp and crisp as I think as it could be and I do not see snow on the screen with no RF input as I do whit my Arvin which i did attempt an alignment, but I still have no marker generator to do it complexly, just a digital RF generator, So would it benefit to try the first 9 steps of this alignment setup?

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/hoff-align.jpg

Hi,
You can't get around a good sweep generator, just because this Hoffman will
be not your last newcomer in your collection!:no:
They were expensive when new, but in our days, nobody wants them.

The number of warm-hearted TV-collectors is low, they have some, and
many TV-shops are passing - incl. their stuff!:thumbsdn:
Here in Germany it is told, that sweeping TV sets is out of vogue since
the beginning 80s - it was really not more a part of the education for TV-men!:finger:

I am sure, that you are able to get a good sweep generator with cables,
when you are going to check Ebay, CL or here at the VK-marketplace or search at the ARF-classified!
The shipping price might be higher than the cash you have to pay for the set!:tears:

Good luck!
TV-collector:stupid:

problem is, this is a 25.5mhz IF set, and sweep marker generators are pretty much impossible to find for them, 45.7mhz aare all over the place however.

Hi really?:scratch2:
We had in the early 50s these low IF in Germany, too.
You really have to have a set like that.

Please start requests at the given forums.
Did you ask them: https://www.earlytelevision.org/index.html
They might have an idea, to get one.

Another way is to buy one from Germany or the Netherlands.
Literature is not a problem, but we have 220/230 Volts sets with 50 Hz.

So before you could start, you have to repair a european "Wobbler".

Maybe you can build your self a device to get the right frequencies?

Translate please:
https://www.robkalmeijer.nl/techniek/electronica/radiotechniek/hambladen/funk/2000/11/page32/index.html

Here is a simple kit/see schematic:
https://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/bau_eines_einfachen_wobbelgenerators.html?language _id=1
Here are brilliant people, they will help you with a D.I.Y.-Wobbler!:thmbsp:

https://www.aatis.de/content/bausatz/AS603b_Markengenerator-f%C3%BCr-AATiS-Wobbler-AS603

http://www.hcp-hofbauer.de/speki6.htm

http://forum.rft-radio.de/thread.php?threadid=641

http://saba-forum.dl2jas.com/index.php/Thread/7389-DDS-Generator-zum-ZF-Wobbeln/

idea? Scroll to 9-3:
https://www.tiffe.de/Robotron/misc/Schaltungssammlung/Schaltungssammlung_2.pdf

DIY:
https://elektronikbasteln.pl7.de/xr2206-funktionsgenerator-mit-wobbelfunktion#google_vignette
from here to there, because of the schematic:
https://www.elektormagazine.de/news/forum
(I can try to find one for you, if needed)

Here is a good one from ebay (Nordmende):
https://www.ebay.de/itm/176674304952?_skw=nordmende+uw+958&itmmeta=01JCR2TGGRSJCR1MT986ZVSCHQ&hash=item29229bf3b8:g:FREAAOSwreZnMP1I&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnjCHU rviZl2lnw%2FeHAgnLp4mmRTnIL6by6VlMM04TxJbeE4JZUvj% 2B554QkTnuotmZ37X2gxiVNoLZhZY19aW3i3LsLEqAmoR54thR qFcskm493Jvlp%2FJ8uxDiLJ4PSFW%2BXBuruNSsCR4vxZx3pW SzfPqFgB8nn25vY61GWPH3CMNzpRe%2FJXJbFch1l1HI0ez0%2 FcdQVaLYQ%2FUIiojVXVlVCbiOsm%2BZNEtlAob4VG2wDZNTY8 q3a7svGobYsQEkKqLvvClql1QdZvM4f8A3Rs3GWMlYu0ZP00pO stmWBmbsGZg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7aI6oLmZA

Good luck!
TV-collector:stupid:

I do see A Eico 369 out there, which has 4 marker points, unlike the 368.