Hello Everyone, I am currently working on a 6-Volt Storage Battery Radio from Montgomery Wards Model 62-465 that the dial string came unstrung (it didn't break it was just unstrung).

I'm trying to restring it and I've looked through the Riders Manual for this radio and it doesn't show a dial stringing diagram, and so I've been trying to restring it blindly without the help of a diagram and so far have not had any luck.

I can get it strung up so that it will rotate the tuning capacitor with the tuning knob but then it gets hung up halfway because the tuning string where it comes out of the main pulley off the spring it attaches to snags on the side of the tuning knob bracket.

Does anyone have access to a dial stringing diagram for this radio or have this model of radio that I could see a picture of how the dial string is strung up?

Thannks for your help.

Hello Everyone, I am currently working on a 6-Volt Storage Battery Radio from Montgomery Wards Model 62-465 that the dial string came unstrung (it didn't break it was just unstrung).

I'm trying to restring it and I've looked through the Riders Manual for this radio and it doesn't show a dial stringing diagram, and so I've been trying to restring it blindly without the help of a diagram and so far have not had any luck.

I can get it strung up so that it will rotate the tuning capacitor with the tuning knob but then it gets hung up halfway because the tuning string where it comes out of the main pulley off the spring it attaches to snags on the side of the tuning knob bracket.

Does anyone have access to a dial stringing diagram for this radio or have this model of radio that I could see a picture of how the dial string is strung up?

Thannks for your help.

You have to try to string the dial cord, either with the condenser fully clockwise or counterclockwise.
The set was built by Belmont! Check other Riders listings to see if there's another set that's similar.

You have to try to string the dial cord, either with the condenser fully clockwise or counterclockwise.
The set was built by Belmont! Check other Riders listings to see if there's another set that's similar.

OK, thanks, I'll try that.

I cant find that exact number in the HW Sams "dial cord stringing guide" DC-1 that shows a nice picture of several Airlines (Monkey Wards) with 62-4XX model number.

The same book shows a different set of arrangements for Belmont. Post a picture of the set to compare to one in the book.

I cant find that exact number in the HW Sams "dial cord stringing guide" DC-1 that shows a nice picture of several Airlines (Monkey Wards) with 62-4XX model number.

The same book shows a different set of arrangements for Belmont. Post a picture of the set to compare to one in the book.

OK, well this particular model is what I would call a "Tele-dial" radio with a tuning eye tube (the tuning dial looks like an old rotary dial telephone, except that there are no presets on here that work with the "Tele-Dial" feature like on the old Grunow units).

It only has two pulleys the tuning knob shaft pulley and the tuning capacitor drive shaft pulley, and thats it.
The tuning knob shaft is on a little bracket that screws to the tuning condenser assembly and the problem I'm having is trying to get the tuning dial string around that bracket without it rubbing against it.

See Pictures Below.

The schematic in Riders is no clue but good its there at all!

Closest match radio dial cord guide lists is an Airline 62-373 and 374, diagram 11 below.

Radioatticachives.com shows a 62-375 set that looks similar.
202523
It looks as if an extra wrap on the dial side is needed so no string moves toward the bracket at either end of range. Dial string should be traveling past the bracket on both sides, but never unwinding off the tuner wheel to point it moves toward and contacts the bracket.

The schematic in Riders is no clue but good its there at all!

Closest match radio dial cord guide lists is an Airline 62-373 and 374, diagram 11 below.

Radioatticachives.com shows a 62-375 set that looks similar.
202523
It looks as if an extra wrap on the dial side is needed so no string moves toward the bracket at either end of range. Dial string should be traveling past the bracket on both sides, but never unwinding off the tuner wheel to point it moves toward and contacts the bracket.

That Diagram worked, its restrung properly now!

Quick question, should this radio be able to run off of a 6V Latern Battery?

I'm asking because I've tried to hook it up to a 6V latern battery and the radio won't power on at all.

Quick question, should this radio be able to run off of a 6V Latern Battery?

Absolutely, 100%, no, your 6V lantern battery will not provide the current (Amps) that your radio needs to run.

Absolutely, 100%, no, your 6V lantern battery will not provide the current (Amps) that your radio needs to run.

Ok, what should I use then to test this radio out? I currently dont have access to a 6V car battery and the 6V Sealed Lead Acid batteries are $300+ a pop which I dont have the money for, and I dont have a regulated DC Power Supply either.

Ok, what should I use then to test this radio out? I currently dont have access to a 6V car battery and the 6V Sealed Lead Acid batteries are $300+ a pop which I dont have the money for, and I dont have a regulated DC Power Supply either.
You can try a 6/12 volt car battery charger, good for at least 5 amps.
You have to use a 1000mfd or more across the output of the charger. Observe polarity! The set uses a synchronous vibrator.
Anyone that has been in this game for any length of time, has a high current battery eliminator.
I had my Knight-kit battery eliminator since I first started repairing radios over 60 years ago. :thmbsp:

You can try a 6/12 volt car battery charger, good for at least 5 amps.
You have to use a 1000mfd or more across the output of the charger. Observe polarity! The set uses a synchronous vibrator.
Anyone that has been in this game for any length of time, has a high current battery eliminator.
I had my Knight-kit battery eliminator since I first started repairing radios over 60 years ago. :thmbsp:

I saw a knight kit A battery eliminator of the 6V variety for sale on Facebook Marketplace but they wanted over $100 for it even though it wasn't in working order. :thumbsdn: :sigh:

I saw a knight kit A battery eliminator of the 6V variety for sale on Facebook Marketplace but they wanted over $100 for it even though it wasn't in working order. :thumbsdn: :sigh:
The Knight-kit battery eliminator was $37.50 back in the early 60's. A lot of money back then. Before we had a sales tax.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/COMBO-OF-2-6V-12Ah-6-Volt-12-amp-hour-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-UB6120/292815136712?hash=item442d2467c8:g:kF0AAOSwsc5e48Q g

Here's a pair of 6V 12AH batteries, buy these and put them in parallel and you've got 6V at 24AH available to your radio for under $30 shipped.

Keeping them charged is then a simple matter of any of the multitude of cheap chargers also sold on the 'Bay ........

I saw a knight kit A battery eliminator of the 6V variety for sale on Facebook Marketplace but they wanted over $100 for it even though it wasn't in working order. :thumbsdn: :sigh:
Where are you located? Reason being, I have a near-new DuraCell Ultra gel cell, 6V 42AH battery. Only used once for servicing a friend's '41 Buick radio. Probably will never use it again. Sucker weighs about 12 pounds (the battery, not the radio.:tongue: )

I'm asking because I've tried to hook it up to a 6V latern battery and the radio won't power on at all.

Is the fuse ok? is the power switch ok? did anything happen, like faint glow in the tubes or weak buzz from the vibrator? Seems as if a good lantern battery should power the set for at least a few minutes.

jr

Lantern battery will never cut it. All the tube heaters plus the vibrator B+ supply will look like almost a dead short to a lantern batt.

Where are you located? Reason being, I have a near-new DuraCell Ultra gel cell, 6V 42AH battery. Only used once for servicing a friend's '41 Buick radio. Probably will never use it again. Sucker weighs about 12 pounds (the battery, not the radio.:tongue: )

I'm located near Bristol, Indiana which is about 10 minutes from the Indiana/Michigan Border, and about 2 hours from the Indiana/Ohio Border and the Illinois/Indiana Border.

Lantern battery will never cut it. All the tube heaters plus the vibrator B+ supply will look like almost a dead short to a lantern batt.

Ok, I wondered about that, but wasn't sure.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/COMBO-OF-2-6V-12Ah-6-Volt-12-amp-hour-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-UB6120/292815136712?hash=item442d2467c8:g:kF0AAOSwsc5e48Q g

Here's a pair of 6V 12AH batteries, buy these and put them in parallel and you've got 6V at 24AH available to your radio for under $30 shipped.

Keeping them charged is then a simple matter of any of the multitude of cheap chargers also sold on the 'Bay ........

I'll give those a looking at.

Lantern battery will never cut it. All the tube heaters plus the vibrator B+ supply will look like almost a dead short to a lantern batt.

What am I missing here? the radio has a 4 amp fuse and a 908 lantern battery is rated at 13 amp hours. :scratch2:

https://www.grainger.com/product/DURACELL-908-5LE26

jr

What am I missing here? the radio has a 4 amp fuse and a 908 lantern battery is rated at 13 amp hours. :scratch2:

https://www.grainger.com/product/DURACELL-908-5LE26

jr

I dont know, but I know it wasn't working for me, the fuse is fine, and I wasn't getting anything out of the set, not even a buzz from the vibrator. I had forgotten to mention I was working on this radio for someone and I just got off the phone with him and he said he wasn't interested in pursuing repairing the unit any further after I told him it wouldn't work on anything less than a 6V car battery.

I have a 6V golf cart battery for running my '36 Philco, it was a return or something like that so I only gave $55 for it I think. I think they are cheaper than 6V starting batteries and better suited for the job.

EDIT: I had to open the vibrator and clean something in it before it would run on that Philco, which also has a synchronous vibrator. seems like I also had to replace the capacitors around it too but I don't remember....

I dont know, but I know it wasn't working for me, the fuse is fine, and I wasn't getting anything out of the set, not even a buzz from the vibrator. I had forgotten to mention I was working on this radio for someone and I just got off the phone with him and he said he wasn't interested in pursuing repairing the unit any further after I told him it wouldn't work on anything less than a 6V car battery.
Offer him a few bucks for the radio. It seems like an interesting set. He's probably interested flipping it.

Offer him a few bucks for the radio. It seems like an interesting set. He's probably interested flipping it.

You're right he is interested in flipping it. I'll ask him if he'd let me have it or even just buy it off of him.

He has the grille cloth for it as well.

I have a 6V golf cart battery for running my '36 Philco, it was a return or something like that so I only gave $55 for it I think. I think they are cheaper than 6V starting batteries and better suited for the job.

EDIT: I had to open the vibrator and clean something in it before it would run on that Philco, which also has a synchronous vibrator. seems like I also had to replace the capacitors around it too but I don't remember....

This unit uses a 6 pin positive ground vibrator. Which I can't even get it out of its socket to check it.

As for golf cart batteries go, I saw those over at batteries plus and thought about getting one of those, but the cheapest one they had was $150...

This unit uses a 6 pin positive ground vibrator. Which I can't even get it out of its socket to check it.

As for golf cart batteries go, I saw those over at batteries plus and thought about getting one of those, but the cheapest one they had was $150...

I have to be really desperate to go to Batteries Plus. They're nuts with their prices. :thumbsdn:

I have to be really desperate to go to Batteries Plus. They're nuts with their prices. :thumbsdn:

Where else am I going to find a 6 volt golf cart battery? I dont think auto zone or advanced auto or Napa is going to have those.

EDIT: They do have them but they are the same price $129 for a 6V golf cart battery.

OK So I checked over at NAPA and they had some 6V SLA Batteries there for about $45 and under.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBPES76?partTypeName=Battery+-+Specialty&impressionRank=7&keywordInput=6+volt+battery

The link above was one of the batteries they had at NAPA.

Would that battery work with this radio?

;) .

What am I missing here? the radio has a 4 amp fuse and a 908 lantern battery is rated at 13 amp hours. :scratch2:

https://www.grainger.com/product/DURACELL-908-5LE26

jr
Point taken. :o Looks like the alkalines have come a long way since the old zinc/carbon types. A fresh new one oughta at least evoke some sign of life out of the radio.

Point taken. :o Looks like the alkalines have come a long way since the old zinc/carbon types. A fresh new one oughta at least evoke some sign of life out of the radio.

Hmm, maybe that's my problem, the lantern battery I have is an Eveready Carbon-Zinc composition 6V lantern battery, and not a Duracell Alkaline 6V Lantern Battery...:scratch2: :sigh:

Does the battery voltage drop considerably when you connect the radio?

jr

Does the battery voltage drop considerably when you connect the radio?

jr

It doesn't power up at all, no dial light, no tube glow, no sound from the vibrator, nothing.

If what you posted earlier about the Duracell 6V lantern batteries being rated for 13 Ah, then couldn't I just get 4 of those Duracell 6V Lantern Batteries, parallel them together and get 52 Ah of power to juice up this radio?

What is the no-load voltage of the battery? Now, with the voltmeter still connected to the battery, connect it to the radio and turn the radio on. Does the voltage drop or stay the same?

What is the no-load voltage of the battery? Now, with the voltmeter still connected to the battery, connect it to the radio and turn the radio on. Does the voltage drop or stay the same?

The "no-load" voltage of the 6V Lantern Battery I have is around 5.5V and when I hooked the radio up to the battery and turned it on and measured the voltage the voltage was 1.5V on the battery so there was a voltage drop of about 4V on the battery.

Do you think the Vibrator could be bad? Also what's the purpose of those Vibrators in these old battery radios?

...Also what's the purpose of those Vibrators in these old battery radios?
See - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrator_(electronic)#Vibrator_power_supply
Typically used in rural areas lacking electrification, and universally in car radios up until transistorization around '58 or so.

The "no-load" voltage of the 6V Lantern Battery I have is around 5.5V and when I hooked the radio up to the battery and turned it on and measured the voltage the voltage was 1.5V on the battery so there was a voltage drop of about 4V on the battery.

Do you think the Vibrator could be bad? Also what's the purpose of those Vibrators in these old battery radios?
A vibrator is used to convert DC to a form of square wave AC to operate the step-up transformer. It also has a set of commutating contacts to convert AC back to DC. Eliminates the need for a rectifier tube, really old technology.
The vibrator's probably stuck and will act as a dead short.
You'll go broke, fooling around with lantern batteries to power this set!

A vibrator is used to convert DC to a form of square wave AC to operate the step-up transformer. It also has a set of commutating contacts to convert AC back to DC. Eliminates the need for a rectifier tube, really old technology.
The vibrator's probably stuck and will act as a dead short.
You'll go broke, fooling around with lantern batteries to power this set!

The lantern batteries are just for testing purposes, if I can get this radio functioning reliably then I'll buy those batteries that init4fun suggested, but I dont want to use rechargeable batteries on a radio that has several potential shorts in the power supply, and risk ruining them and then have $30 go down the toilet for nothing.

...I dont want to use nonrechargeable batteries on a radio that has several potential shorts in the power supply, and risk ruining them and then have $30 go down the toilet for nothing.
Tell you what - assuming you have a trickle charger or some way to keep it topped up, I will send you the near-new battery described back in post# 14, for 35 bucks, shipping included. Just glad to see it have a good home. Just PM me with shipping address and it will be on its way, the $35 on your honor.

Tell you what - assuming you have a trickle charger or some way to keep it topped up, I will send you the near-new battery described back in post# 14, for 35 bucks, shipping included. Just glad to see it have a good home. Just PM me with shipping address and it will be on its way, the $35 on your honor.

Ok, will do. I did manage to get the vibrator out of the radio, but I'm unsure of how to open it to check the condition of the internals.

Probably no need to open the vibrator at this stage, as the radio probably has low time on it. However there is one component that will definitely need replacing once you get the vibrator running. That's the Buffer Capacitor. It's connected directly across the secondary of the transformer. Its purpose is to prevent arcing/pitting of the vibtr contacts. Back in the day we always changed the Buffer out of hand with every vibtr replacement. And it's guaranteed to be leaky after decades sitting. Not sure what value yours is, but it'll be rated at 1600V or higher.

Ok, will do. I did manage to get the vibrator out of the radio, but I'm unsure of how to open it to check the condition of the internals.

Don't open it yet .....

The thing here is, the vibrator may be fine, the fact that your 6V battery became a one volt battery under load means that you weren't providing the radio with the power it needs. Despite what the ratings say I still don't believe a 6V lantern battery could ever provide the "inrush" power needed to start the vibrator. As you may know about incandescent bulb theory, for a couple of milliseconds upon being powered up the cold filament draws MAD amps, way more than you'd ever believe, to heat the filament to white hot where it's resistance goes way UP and the inrush current subsides. With your vibrator, upon initial application of power the stopped contacts that haven't yet started moving are presenting the transformer's primary winding as an almost dead short to your power source , a microsecond or two later once the vibrator starts that initial inrush of current it took to get the vibrator buzzing subsides to the normal running current of the device (which of course is MUCH lower than the starting current).

Old Coot has given you one Hell of a generous offer and I wouldn't be surprised if that battery starts that ol vibrator, if not, only then, provided all the tube heaters and pilot light are on, if it don't start, THEN contemplate taking it apart. As to your fear of hurting something by using the rechargeable battery, remember, the 4A fuse is there to save the day if there are any hard short circuits in the radio.

Probably no need to open the vibrator at this stage, as the radio probably has low time on it. However there is one component that will definitely need replacing once you get the vibrator running. That's the Buffer Capacitor. It's connected directly across the secondary of the transformer. Its purpose is to prevent arcing/pitting of the vibtr contacts. Back in the day we always changed the Buffer out of hand with every vibtr replacement. And it's guaranteed to be leaky after decades sitting. Not sure what value yours is, but it'll be rated at 1600V or higher.

The buffer cap in my unit (C5) is a .005 MFD 1200 VDC unit.
I do have several 1600 VDC film caps that were for use in TVs and VCRs.

Is the capacitance rating crucial in this application? If not I have a .0082 MFD 1600 VDC Film capacitor that I could use in place of the old .005 MFD 1200 unit.

Don't open it yet .....

The thing here is, the vibrator may be fine, the fact that your 6V battery became a one volt battery under load means that you weren't providing the radio with the power it needs. Despite what the ratings say I still don't believe a 6V lantern battery could ever provide the "inrush" power needed to start the vibrator. As you may know about incandescent bulb theory, for a couple of milliseconds upon being powered up the cold filament draws MAD amps, way more than you'd ever believe, to heat the filament to white hot where it's resistance goes way UP and the inrush current subsides. With your vibrator, upon initial application of power the stopped contacts that haven't yet started moving are presenting the transformer's primary winding as an almost dead short to your power source , a microsecond or two later once the vibrator starts that initial inrush of current it took to get the vibrator buzzing subsides to the normal running current of the device (which of course is MUCH lower than the starting current).

Old Coot has given you one Hell of a generous offer and I wouldn't be surprised if that battery starts that ol vibrator, if not, only then, provided all the tube heaters and pilot light are on, if it don't start, THEN contemplate taking it apart. As to your fear of hurting something by using the rechargeable battery, remember, the 4A fuse is there to save the day if there are any hard short circuits in the radio.

Agree...the vibrator may be ok, don’t open it yet.

Agree...high inrush current may be the problem, BUT a 6 volt lantern battery that measures 5.5 volts with no load is very tired. Results may be different with a fresh alkaline battery.:scratch2:

Agree... OC’s offer is very generous, big thumbs up for OC. :thmbsp:

jr

Agree...the vibrator may be ok, don’t open it yet.

Agree...high inrush current may be the problem, BUT a 6 volt lantern battery that measures 5.5 volts with no load is very tired. Results may be different with a fresh alkaline battery.:scratch2:

Agree... OC’s offer is very generous, big thumbs up for OC. :thmbsp:

jr

I sent old coot a pm but haven't heard back from him yet. I actually paralleled 3 6V lantern batteries together and hooked them up to the radio and turned the radio on and measured the voltage and the voltage was around 5.8V with the radio on and the tubes did light up, but there was no audio and I didn't hear anything from the vibrator.

I did then return the 2 Duracell lantern batteries to the hardware store and got my money back, which I'll use for the battery OC is offering me. :thmbsp:

I have an old 1960s vintage 6/12 V battery charger that was my grandfathers that I can use to recharge the battery that OC is offering me (which I did accept his offer, but I haven't heard back from him yet).

I sent old coot a pm but haven't heard back from him yet. I actually paralleled 3 6V lantern batteries together and hooked them up to the radio and turned the radio on and measured the voltage and the voltage was around 5.8V with the radio on and the tubes did light up, but there was no audio and I didn't hear anything from the vibrator.

I did then return the 2 Duracell lantern batteries to the hardware store and got my money back, which I'll use for the battery OC is offering me. :thmbsp:

I have an old 1960s vintage 6/12 V battery charger that was my grandfathers that I can use to recharge the battery that OC is offering me (which I did accept his offer, but I haven't heard back from him yet).

At the point where the paralleled lantern batteries lit the tubes, the next step would have been to give the vibrator a sharp rap on it's side with the handle of a screwdriver and see if that got it to start. Not hard enough to dent it of course, but enough of a hit to hopefully dislodge the possibly stuck contacts. I still wouldn't take it apart till OC's battery arrives, if that much available current don't get it buzzing then yeah it's surgery time.

At the point where the paralleled lantern batteries lit the tubes, the next step would have been to give the vibrator a sharp rap on it's side with the handle of a screwdriver and see if that got it to start. Not hard enough to dent it of course, but enough of a hit to hopefully dislodge the possibly stuck contacts. I still wouldn't take it apart till OC's battery arrives, if that much available current don't get it buzzing then yeah it's surgery time.

Ok. Thanks.

It's on its way.

It's on its way.

Great, thanks! :thmbsp: I'll be the owner of the radio once I get a couple of radios going for the guy that I've been working on. :D

Just a cautionary note though. If it's a synchronous vibrator (mechanical rectification), be sure the supply polarity is correct. If it's backward, the B+ will also be backwards, throwing reverse polarity on the main filter caps. Whereas with tube rectfication the supply can be either polarity.

Great, thanks! :thmbsp: I'll be the owner of the radio once I get a couple of radios going for the guy that I've been working on. :D
I dealt with people like that!
They want the world for the items they have, but want you to repair their stuff for nothing, part and labor.
I quit taking in repairs!

I dealt with people like that!
They want the world for the items they have, but want you to repair their stuff for nothing, part and labor.
I quit taking in repairs!

Oh no, he actually pays me for my time and labor as well, but he's bartering with me for some radios and test equipment I needed by allowing me to have an old radio or some old test equipment in exchange for my repair services on some of his old radios, by valuing my repair work time and stuff equal to the value of whatever it is I wanted.

I was able to get an old Knight Model 600 tube tester from him for just what I put into time and parts to fix an old Stromberg Carlson radio and an old Canadian Viking Cathedral Radio (which was mostly research time on the later radio because I couldn't find a service manual for the unit because of it being a Canadian radio, and they have different service information than we do here in the US.)

I also got a really nice variac thrown in as well a superior electric unit.

Just a cautionary note though. If it's a synchronous vibrator (mechanical rectification), be sure the supply polarity is correct. If it's backward, the B+ will also be backwards, throwing reverse polarity on the main filter caps. Whereas with tube rectfication the supply can be either polarity.

Ok, well I dont know if this would of affected anything or not but when I was trying to repair the battery cables I which were previously severed and jury rigged back together with wire splices and friction tape I couldn't tell what color the wires were because the cloth insulation on the wires were faded to the point that you couldn't tell what colors they were.

So I wired then up how they were wired up when i first got the radio (which was how it looked in the chassis illustration in the Riders for this unit, not noticing that there was an actual diagram of how the battery cable was supposed to be wired up in the schematic and I accidentally wired up the positive to the negative leads and attempted to power the unit up with a single 6V lantern battery with it wired up that way (which thankfully there wasn't enough juice in that battery to power the unit up) I have since "rectified" (pun intended) the issue.

Hopefully the vibrator and the filter caps didn't get ruined with my failed attempt at powering up the radio with the miswired battery cables.

Interesting little factoid about car radios using synchronous vibrators. You can use a radio from a negative-ground car in a positive-ground car just by reversing the two end leads of the transformer's secondary. This simply inverts the B supply to positive.

Interesting little factoid about car radios using synchronous vibrators. You can use a radio from a negative-ground car in a positive-ground car just by reversing the two end leads of the transformer's secondary. This simply inverts the B supply to positive.

This radio uses a positive ground I believe because the A+ wire (the positive wire) is the battery cable's ground shielding cable and the A- wire (the negative wires) are the green and black wires that are inside the ground shielding cable/cloth sheathing.

This radio uses a positive ground I believe because the A+ wire (the positive wire) is the battery cable's ground shielding cable and the A- wire (the negative wires) are the green and black wires that are inside the ground shielding cable/cloth sheathing.

:thmbsp: The schematic shows A+ as being connected to ground and A- to the switch. Back in the day when 6V cars were the norm a lot of cars were positive ground....

I got the battery today, hooked it up, and still nothing from the vibrator, even after lightly tapping it a couple of times with the handle of a screwdriver.

Time for disection of the vibrator? :scratch2:

I got the battery today, hooked it up, and still nothing from the vibrator, even after lightly tapping it a couple of times with the handle of a screwdriver.

Time for disection of the vibrator? :scratch2:
Remove the vibrator and connect 6vac to pins 3&6. With AC applied it should vibrate.
There's probably a heavy corrosion buildup on the contacts after so many years. If it doesn't buzz on AC, the coil is probably open.
Trying to remember after so many years.

In PM exchange with Vortalexfan, he indicated that the battery's no-load voltage was 5.4V as received, tho it had been topped up to over 6V before shipment. So I'm wondering if it has developed a bad cell. Told him to withold payment until whether that's determined.

In PM exchange with Vortalexfan, he indicated that the battery's no-load voltage was 5.4V as received, tho it had been topped up to over 6V before shipment. So I'm wondering if it has developed a bad cell. Told him to withold payment until whether that's determined.

I have a Toyota Prius battery pack with a dead cell. It's a li-ion type battery that should read 7.8 to 8 volts no load. It reads 6.4 volts, so it had to be replaced. There's 28 cell packs in the battery bank.
Lucky thing, the bad cell shorts instead of going O/C, or you'll be calling for a tow.
Slightly OTT, but noteworthy.

Remove the vibrator and connect 6vac to pins 3&6. With AC applied it should vibrate.
There's probably a heavy corrosion buildup on the contacts after so many years. If it doesn't buzz on AC, the coil is probably open.
Trying to remember after so many years.
Sometimes the contacts in vibrators are so corroded they won't vibrate even at 6V AC...the vibrator in my 47 olds radio needed close to 24VAC from my variac and some light knocking on it to wake it up... it isn't a bad idea to put a 6 or 12V turnsignal bulb in series as a current limiter during the AC wakeup cycle...it can also serve as an indicator if it started working.

Sometimes the contacts in vibrators are so corroded they won't vibrate even at 6V AC...the vibrator in my 47 olds radio needed close to 24VAC from my variac and some light knocking on it to wake it up... it isn't a bad idea to put a 6 or 12V turnsignal bulb in series as a current limiter during the AC wakeup cycle...it can also serve as an indicator if it started working.

OK, Thanks, will give that a try as well.

I've pretty much recapped this whole radio except for 3 capacitors, C12,C13, C16 and C12 and C13 are a part of the vibrator circuit but not sure what their purpose is in the vibrator circuit, they are "in series" with L2 which is the "A" Choke, and C16 is apart of the output tube socket circuit (I think its a cathode bypass cap) and its a .003 MFD Cap and I unfortunately didn't order one because I thought I had one laying around in my cap stash but I didn't.

C12 and C13 are kind of funky caps in that one side of the caps are crimped and soldered to the chassis and the other side are attached to L2 and the Vibrator socket, but I'm not sure if those caps should be replaced and if so how to go about replacing them.

C16 on the other hand I was wondering how critical the value of that part is because I do have some .001 MFD caps which if I could put one of those in that spot I might do that instead until I can make another order.

Well a little update on the vibrator, unfortunately I think this vibrator is toast, I tried powering it up with a Variac in order to put 6 VAC on it, and its not doing anything, I even tried putting 24 VAC on it like Electronic M suggested and it just won't do anyrhing, and the weird thing is that there isn't any corrosion on the contacts (yes I did open it up) just a lot of carbon dust from the contacts arcing against each over the years but no corrosion.

I may have to get another vibrator online over on ebay, unless someone on here has a 6V Positive Ground 6-pin Vibrator they could donate to the cause. :scratch2:

Would this Vibrator Work in my radio?

See Link below.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MALLORY-1807-6V-SYN-VIBRATOR-NOS-NIB-6-Pin/114123858952?epid=2292109792&hash=item1a924fe408:g:aFQAAOSwBnVW-cOt

Bump!

Anyone here have any information for my latest issues?

Bump!

Anyone here have any information for my latest issues?

I don't think that is the right vibrator, and here's why I think that;

The Ebay Vibrator has it's two fat pins opposite of each other, and the not too well drawn schematic on Nostalgia Air looks like the two fat pins are right next to each other. If I am correct, the Ebay vibrator won't fit into your radio's socket.....

I don't think that is the right vibrator, and here's why I think that;

The Ebay Vibrator has it's two fat pins opposite of each other, and the not too well drawn schematic on Nostalgia Air looks like the two fat pins are right next to each other. If I am correct, the Ebay vibrator won't fit into your radio's socket.....

I figured as much but had to check, they didn't have too much in the way of old 6V 6 Pin vibrators on ebay unfortunately, and the Solid State replacements over at AES are 4 pin units which means they wouldn't work either, so its looking like I may not be able to successfully resurrect this radio, especially if I can't find the correct replacement vibrator for this radio...:sigh:

I figured as much but had to check, they didn't have too much in the way of old 6V 6 Pin vibrators on ebay unfortunately, and the Solid State replacements over at AES are 4 pin units which means they wouldn't work either, so its looking like I may not be able to successfully resurrect this radio, especially if I can't find the correct replacement vibrator for this radio...:sigh:
You can use the solid state vibrator but you have to change the socket to a four pin and wire in two diodes for rectification.
I did that for a 1940 Cadillac radio which originally used a synchronous vibrator.

You can use the solid state vibrator but you have to change the socket to a four pin and wire in two diodes for rectification.
I did that for a 1940 Cadillac radio which originally used a synchronous vibrator.

Ok, I'll give that a try. :thmbsp:

If it were mine to do, this is how I'd do it;

I would not change the radio to adapt a different vibrator, I'd adapt the different vibrator to work with the radio's original socket. The Ebay vibrator is electrically what you need, it's just got the wrong pin configuration. It would be a simple matter to use the original base with it's pins from your dead vibrator to build a home made adapter to make the Ebay vibrator work. With the nostalgia air schematic you've already got the electrical pinout of your original. Somewhere out here in internetland there's gotta be a datasheet where you can get the pinout of the Ebay vibrator. Solder six wires to the new vibrator's pins, connect them in the proper order to the six pins of your original vibrator's base, epoxy it into a small piece of PVC pipe for sturdiness, and run it.... :thmbsp:

If it were mine to do, this is how I'd do it;

I would not change the radio to adapt a different vibrator, I'd adapt the different vibrator to work with the radio's original socket. The Ebay vibrator is electrically what you need, it's just got the wrong pin configuration. It would be a simple matter to use the original base with it's pins from your dead vibrator to build a home made adapter to make the Ebay vibrator work. With the nostalgia air schematic you've already got the electrical pinout of your original. Somewhere out here in internetland there's gotta be a datasheet where you can get the pinout of the Ebay vibrator. Solder six wires to the new vibrator's pins, connect them in the proper order to the six pins of your original vibrator's base, epoxy it into a small piece of PVC pipe for sturdiness, and run it.... :thmbsp:

I might give that a try as well.

A little update:

I found two listings on ebay from the same person that has the correct type of vibrator for sale that I need for my radio!

The Radiart Type 5411 Vibrator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294055040200?hash=item44770bd4c8:g:pMoAAOSwvlVgR~7 m

https://www.ebay.com/itm/294054978599?hash=item44770ae427:g:P~YAAOSwpKJgR~H E

UPDATE: I managed to snag one of those Radiart type 5411 Vibrators that I posted the links to in the previous post.

They should be here by next week hopefully. :thmbsp:

UPDATE: I managed to snag one of those Radiart type 5411 Vibrators that I posted the links to in the previous post.

They should be here by next week hopefully. :thmbsp:

:) That is awesome news! I'm happy to hear that you won't have to try to kludge something in....

:) That is awesome news! I'm happy to hear that you won't have to try to kludge something in....

Thanks! Yes, I too am happy I won't have to modify this radio at all to make it work hopefully.:thmbsp:

A Little update, I got my Vibrator yesterday, and I put it into the radio and hooked the battery up to it, turned on the radio and the tubes glowed and the pilot light came on but still no audio and it didn't seem like vibrator was doing anything still.

I've completely recapped this radio (except for the capacitor attached to the volume control that is used for tone compensation), and I tried hooking the vibrator up to my variac and running it with 6V AC and all the way up to 24V AC and the Vibrator is not wanting to respond I was even trying to gently tap the vibrator housing to see if I could get it to start that way, and nothing.

So a couple of questions, how common is it for these Vibrators to be Dead, including NOS ones, and do these vibrators actually make an audible humming noise when they are running properly?

I just seem to keep hitting roadblocks with this radio and I really want to get this radio working because its a really neat radio.

Of the 2 vibrators I have had my hands on both were DOA and had to be brought back to life. They do make an audible buzz in opperation.
It took like 10 minutes of cranking the voltage up for brief 1 second spurts (once or twice I hit 60 on the variac), letting it sit at 12-24V for 5-10 sec and banging it on the table not quite hard enough to dent mine to revive it...

Of the 2 vibrators I have had my hands on both were DOA and had to be brought back to life. They do make an audible buzz in opperation.
It took like 10 minutes of cranking the voltage up for brief 1 second spurts (once or twice I hit 60 on the variac), letting it sit at 12-24V for 5-10 sec and banging it on the table not quite hard enough to dent mine to revive it...

OK, well I guess I'll have to see what I can do with mine, although I don't really trust myself with a "cheater cord" hooked up to a vibrator with aligator clips and plugged into a live variac and trying to bang the vibrator against my workbench table and not accidentally have an aligator clip fly off and short against something... :yikes:

OK, well I guess I'll have to see what I can do with mine, although I don't really trust myself with a "cheater cord" hooked up to a vibrator with aligator clips and plugged into a live variac and trying to bang the vibrator against my workbench table and not accidentally have an aligator clip fly off and short against something... :yikes:
Use a 60 watt lamp in series with the coil, then type getting it to vibrate.
The foam rubber lining was a tendency to react with the contacts, even on a brand new unit.
Open up the can on the original vibrator and see what can be done with it.

A Little update, I got my Vibrator yesterday, and I put it into the radio and hooked the battery up to it, turned on the radio and the tubes glowed and the pilot light came on but still no audio and it didn't seem like vibrator was doing anything still.

I've completely recapped this radio (except for the capacitor attached to the volume control that is used for tone compensation), and I tried hooking the vibrator up to my variac and running it with 6V AC and all the way up to 24V AC and the Vibrator is not wanting to respond I was even trying to gently tap the vibrator housing to see if I could get it to start that way, and nothing.

So a couple of questions, how common is it for these Vibrators to be Dead, including NOS ones, and do these vibrators actually make an audible humming noise when they are running properly?

I just seem to keep hitting roadblocks with this radio and I really want to get this radio working because its a really neat radio.
We haven't heard anything regarding getting this set going.
Did the replacement vibrator do the trick.

We haven't heard anything regarding getting this set going.
Did the replacement vibrator do the trick.

That update you quoted was about the new vibrator, the NOS vibrator was dead too, and I tried "shocking" it back to life and it wouldn't work, and I'm not sure what else to try because apparently it's not responding to low voltage AC current shocks, or physical shocks (light tapping).

You don't need to be gentle. Bang it harder till it starts to dent then back off a tad so you don't dent it worse.

You don't need to be gentle. Bang it harder till it starts to dent then back off a tad so you don't dent it worse.

Well I just was trying to make sure I didn't break it, because I paid almost $40 for that thing including shipping. But I can try to hit it harder now.

Well I just was trying to make sure I didn't break it, because I paid almost $40 for that thing including shipping. But I can try to hit it harder now.
I'd be tempted to just convert it to AC operation! You'd have to provide a DC source for the audio tube and related circuitry for the bias.
The rest of the tubes, the heaters can use AC.

I'd be tempted to just convert it to AC operation! You'd have to provide a DC source for the audio tube and related circuitry for the bias.
The rest of the tubes, the heaters can use AC.

I was thinking of that too but that might be a lot more work than I want to try and tackle.