I recently picked up this early rectangular color 23" Motorola set from 1967. Got it from Doug H who found it a local estate sale.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50585971012_9f0262300c_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k57jN1)

The original infamous 23EGP22 CRT is gone.
The current CRT was installed for Mr Copy in 1978. The warranty card kinda looks like 23ECP22, but I think they meant 23EGP22.
Who gets a new CRT for an 11 year old set ?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50585378851_d740946864_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k54hLk)

Anyway it tests very good and produced a bright B&W image. No color.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50585379126_314eda0cd6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k54hR5)

Here it is with the back off.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50585499157_9200814f5e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k54Uwz)

I imagine it had a yoke cover at some point, but there is little left of it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50585378776_31d410ca97_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k54hK3)


The top is a little rough and overall there is some veneer separation and the finish has deteriorated. However, no chips, dings or deep scratches.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50584634318_b6f576a2a1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k4Ztry)

It looks similar to a set in the lower right of this 1967 Moto brochure, but they list it as a CL883D ?
They also show the 1967 model years as having cabinet made by Drexler, but I found no label on mine.

That being said it is well made with solid walnut wood and veneers.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50585990227_402f6ee9d2_o.jpg (http://www.tvhistory.tv/1967-Motorola-Brochure1.JPG)

Back in the day, Motorola advertised this series as the first rectangular tube. From the servicer standpoint these sets were never very good, but people did like the soft picture.

A co-worker gave me the same model of TV back in the mid 80s. I repaired it (tubes only) and gave it to my mother-in-law who used it for almost 10 years without needing any servicing. You are right, she did like the soft, warm picture as well as the cabinet styling. It had the original CRT.

Bandersen, is your CRT free of cataracts? I couldn't see anything in your pictures.

Back in the day, Motorola advertised this series as the first rectangular tube. From the servicer standpoint these sets were never very good, but people did like the soft picture.
The 23EG was used by practically every manufacturer but RCA, Zenith and Sylvania.
National Video kept the prime for Motorola sets and sold off the rest. The Prime tubes stood up real well.
Some of the Zenith and RCA tubes were no treat either!
Admiral CRT's were probably the worst of the worst. :thumbsdn:

...
Bandersen, is your CRT free of cataracts? I couldn't see anything in your pictures.

There is a bit of discoloration and separation in the upper left. This is a rebuild from 1979

That CRT looks pretty good and if it were mine, I would not risk any removal.

My Admiral (3G13) combo has a '75 Channel Master rebuilt 23EGP22 with a significant cataract just like an RCA would:sigh:.

As a Motorola nut who has a soft spot for these despite the comparisons, that is a fantastic set Bob!

After seeing the pictures I’ll probably have nightmares.
I wish you nothing but the best with this set

I have worked on more of these than I’ll ever admit. I always thought the boss was trying to get me to quit when I had to work on one. We had a large Motorola population thanks to an EJ Korvette department store.

Motorola had a problem toasting the demod tube sockets to a crisp in their hand wired chassis. Changing a tube socket in a Moto was memorable experience. Changing one/both demod sockets was unforgettable. No room!

I would solder leads on the replacement socket’s pins. I would then snake leads through the existing socket pin holes and solder to the socket tabs. NOT a pretty picture! If the socket was so bad that only the metal pin holes/tabs remained, end of story. I wasn’t proud of the repair, but it was revenue for the shop and the customer was happy. Fortunately, customers having these Motorolas repaired weren’t picky about picture quality.

I’ll withhold comments on the 23EGP.

Phil

Great score in the cabinet department. If it has both the SODPIL color demodulator and the 23EGP22 color probably isn't ever going to look completely right on normal programming.
I've got a tincan 23V" table set with the SODPIL and a 25somethingP22 and the control layout of the ad posted above. With only the SODPIL it's color is always a little off.

When bonded screen CRTs are rebuilt, is the safety glass removed for the rebuilding and re-attached after the rebuild is complete or is the safety glass left on for the entire rebuilding process?

I'm not sure about the rebuild process. I'll try to get a good photo of the discolored area.

This bad 6DX8 could be why there is no color. The base is cracked and it went to air.
Can't believe I don't have any replacements in my stash :tears: Ordered up a few NOS.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50585498767_963f5e4fa9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k54UpR)

Also haven't been able to get this tube out. Think I'll need to unsolder the top part of the shield. What were they thinking :no:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50585378441_cace119851_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k54hDg)

Meanwhile, I glued down all the loose veneer and sanded the top. All the scratches were very light and came right out.

I think I can salvage the rest of the finish.

Say what you will about the chassis and CRT, but the cabinet is very well made :thmbsp:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50587674868_99b84e3216_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k5g4hQ)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50588542287_9270206bfe_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k5kv9k)

Who gets a new CRT for an 11 year old set ?



Back in 78-79 a new color set was hundreds of dollars.
I worked in a shop around then and we used to install rebuilt tubes in roundies and rectangular sets that we dragged in from yard sales or were left by the customer.

Spend $50 on a rebuilt tube and a few other small tubes and flip it for $200 or more.

"Who gets a new CRT for an 11 year old set ?"

Mr.Copy apparently did :)

Ha. Here's a front view where you can see that the CRT is a bit low in the bezel.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50589177282_95a7fed46d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k5oKUw)

Here's the corner that's bad. Some sort of sticky plastic stuff is on the surface and it's discolored.
I think if I raised the CRT up a little the worst of it would be hidden.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50589057436_85f5fcbf0c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k5o9hd)

Ha. Here's a front view where you can see that the CRT is a bit low in the bezel.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50589177282_95a7fed46d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k5oKUw)

Here's the corner that's bad. Some sort of sticky plastic stuff is on the surface and it's discolored.
I think if I raised the CRT up a little the worst of it would be hidden.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50589057436_85f5fcbf0c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k5o9hd)

Looks like the green Zenith style cataracts forming. Those are pretty easy to fix, but it looks like it is early enough into its degradation to ignore.

When you have the chassis out you can adjust CRT mounting.

When bonded screen CRTs are rebuilt, is the safety glass removed for the rebuilding and re-attached after the rebuild is complete or is the safety glass left on for the entire rebuilding process?

The bonded glass must be removed as the bonding material cannot withstand the high oven temperatures.

That's what I had figured. I wonder if they had an easy way to remove the bonded glass? I can't imagine the rebuilders sitting a bunch of tubes in garbage cans outside in the sun to soften the adhesive.

That's what I had figured. I wonder if they had an easy way to remove the bonded glass? I can't imagine the rebuilders sitting a bunch of tubes in garbage cans outside in the sun to soften the adhesive.

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

As I understand, the hot wire method. Nichrome wire heated with a low voltage, high current transformer.

Looks like the green Zenith style cataracts forming. Those are pretty easy to fix, but it looks like it is early enough into its degradation to ignore.

When you have the chassis out you can adjust CRT mounting.
Installing a CRT in those sets was kind of a nasty job because the tube went in from the front. The last CRT I installed in one of those sets, I converted it from a 23EG to a 23V something using a mounting kit from the Motorola distributor.
The Motorola product line was well represented in the Milwaukee area. Dykro distributors was owned by relatives of the owners of The Milwaukee Journal newspaper.

That CRT looks pretty good and if it were mine, I would not risk any removal.

My Admiral (3G13) combo has a '75 Channel Master rebuilt 23EGP22 with a significant cataract just like an RCA would:sigh:.

As a Motorola nut who has a soft spot for these despite the comparisons, that is a fantastic set Bob!

That cabinet was a classic attractive cabinet style!
My first color set was a Motorola ETS908, 28 tube chassis.
In late 1965, I went to the distributor to buy a set but they wouldn't sell it to me, as I was just a part-time servicer. You'll have to buy it from a dealer.
I originally wanted the lower priced metal table model, but it was unavailable for quite a while. I ended up buying the better model for $100 more, a lot of money at the time. We only ran the set for 10 years.

Installing a CRT in those sets was kind of a nasty job because the tube went in from the front. The last CRT I installed in one of those sets, I converted it from a 23EG to a 23V something using a mounting kit from the Motorola distributor.
The Motorola product line was well represented in the Milwaukee area. Dykro distributors was owned by relatives of the owners of The Milwaukee Journal newspaper.

My metal table set has the front CRT mounting. Part of me hoped that dopey scheme was a table set only design for compactness... It's too bad the consoles have it too.
Moto did partially make up for it by placing the convergence panel on the front behind the speaker:thmbsp:....any set with front convergence adjustment is was atleast partially designed with the tech in mind in my book.

The convergence panel in this set detaches and has a long cable so you can adjust from the front :)

Replacing the bad tubes got the color back.
Some vertical lines at top and it doesn't fill the screen screen. Horizontal sync is a bit off as well.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50606731146_74cd3b6e97_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k6WJ4m)

Definitely some vertical linearity issues and the tuner is flaky.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50611696338_af6fc7b990_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k7ob37)

Definitely some vertical linearity issues and the tuner is flaky.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50611696338_af6fc7b990_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k7ob37)

Bob, nothing wrong with the Vertical Linearity. You are watching an episode of "The Cone Heads". :D

They mean no harm, they only wish to build a Protoid Re-fueling Station in your backyard

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

Scotty placed the tube in the oven at about 300F and the bonding material softens up and the safety glass comes right off.

Scotty placed the tube in the oven at about 300F and the bonding material softens up and the safety glass comes right off.

most of us don't have an oven that can fit a 21fjp22a! :p

most of us don't have an oven that can fit a 21fjp22a! :p

As an appliance fan, I picture a Westinghouse or Philco large 70s wall oven on its back facing up, on a stand with an insulated extension out the back to accommodate the neck. This would allow the tube to face up, its safety glass accessible just under the door. Maintaining evenness of heat and baking a CRT to 300 then cooling again is a scary thought.:yikes:

I was looking at two of my rectangular Zenith's with 2" of yellow fringing, wondering if its worth the trouble. If you want a uniformly good picture free of external tint, its your call.:smoke:

As an appliance fan, I picture a Westinghouse or Philco large 70s wall oven on its back facing up, on a stand with an insulated extension out the back to accommodate the neck. This would allow the tube to face up, its safety glass accessible just under the door. Maintaining evenness of heat and baking a CRT to 300 then cooling again is a scary thought.:yikes:

I was looking at two of my rectangular Zenith's with 2" of yellow fringing, wondering if its worth the trouble. If you want a uniformly good picture free of external tint, its your call.:smoke:

The yellow green cataracts Zeniths get can b dealt with without any heat. Go to your local music store and buy no18 or thicker steel guitar string (get 2-5 incase you snap one), affix a wood handle securely to each end of the string, with the CRT sitting face up in a garbage can or 5gal bucket and the tape around the safety glass perimeter removed hold the string taught and use it to saw through the rubbery gummy glue...once you get to the clear part of the glue you'll probably need to pull on one handle at a time with both hands.
Once that's done the safety glass will be off and you can peel the glue off where it will cooperate...where it won't razorblades, fingernails and a paint remover called Good Off will take care of the rest. Once all the glue is gone make sure everything is spotless and reattach the safety glass with foam double stick spacers and silicone caulk (my preferred method) or tape.

I've done around a dozen Zenith cataract removals with this method and have a 100% success rate with it.
Post separation glue clean up can be a bit tedious (especially on the last couple years of bonded glass CRTs Zenith made), but the lense separation process is quick and safe and thus in my mind makes up for it.

I like anything NOT involving heat but still nervous about handling a few really good Zenith jugs. The last three cataract removals were on RCA and GE replacement CRT's. I broke the safety glass on the FJ as it was 70% intact and there was no steady sun for weeks, so I used a heat gun. bad idea.

I just have to make it a point of getting some No 18 string and from what I understand, passing some low-voltage thru it for heating is unnecessary.

The silicone caulk I used to seal the edge of a 21FJ was white and I should have used clear as one little bit of caulk was visible after putting it back in the set. Clear tape that I used around the edge was similar to original.

I like anything NOT involving heat but still nervous about handling a few really good Zenith jugs. The last three cataract removals were on RCA and GE replacement CRT's. I broke the safety glass on the FJ as it was 70% intact and there was no steady sun for weeks, so I used a heat gun. bad idea.

I just have to make it a point of getting some No 18 string and from what I understand, passing some low-voltage thru it for heating is unnecessary.

The silicone caulk I used to seal the edge of a 21FJ was white and I should have used clear as one little bit of caulk was visible after putting it back in the set. Clear tape that I used around the edge was similar to original.
Yup.
On RCA jugs I crack 90% of safety glass using heat and pry methods.

On Zenith CRTs I've never cracked a safety glass using the wire. The wire doesn't need to be warm...heck the tube doesn't have to be warm. I've done a successful Zenith removal in a dim garage on a 45 degree fall night.
It's the safest cataract removal process I know.

Clear silicone is better. I prefer the small hand squeeze tubes over the gun type tubes as I feel it gives me more control to make a small bead. You only need 1/8" contact inward of the edge to seal and provide cushion IMO.

Finished up the cabinet except for repairing two legs. Top was grain filled and spray with some walnut toner lacquer followed by semi-glosss clear coat.

Howard's walnut "restore-a-finish" and "feed-n-wax" on the rest.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50641785476_59cc66f4e5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ka3oum)

Looks good!:thmbsp:

Just started poking around inside. I must say I'm not very impressed at the build quality.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50726676468_f6462fc8c2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2khxtC9)

Yeah, the cabinet sure looks good though.