I'm getting ready to start on my Predicta, and before I remove all those wires from the PCB I can't get the idea out of my head to attach some kind of push-on connector to them so in the future they can be easily removed and reattached without going through all the trauma of re-wrapping/soldering/unwrapping/unsoldering. There are already a few used this way, for the speaker and what I think is the dial light (haven't traced it yet).

But! I can't find anything like that searching online. I'm sure it's a question of using the right terminology.

Anyone have any opinions of one method vs. the other? Or any ideas what I need to be searching for?

After being in the bowels of tens of thousands of TV's serviceability
has always been a pet peeve of mine. Often just a few more inches
of wire or bringing wires in on one side of a PCB makes the difference
between this sucks & piece of cake ! Would cost almost nothing.

SO maybe extend enuf wires to be able to flip up the PCB for service
& have the set still work. Gotta watch the grounds as often they are made to the main chassis. I would also do a few at a time & watch for changes
due to lead dress. Just IMHO.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Perhaps Berg pins?

jr

...so in the future they can be easily removed and reattached without going through all the trauma of re-wrapping/soldering/unwrapping/unsoldering...

Since you're not going for Level 10 accuracy (I wouldn't either!), I would just lay the wire alongside the pin and solder - no wrapping of any kind. Done cleanly, those connections will last forever and be easy to remove in the future.

John

I don't rewrap the wires completely either, a single loop hooked on the pin and soldered is sufficient and easily removed if needed.

I don't rewrap the wires completely either, a single loop hooked on the pin and soldered is sufficient and easily removed if needed.

That's what I did on mine. I did contemplate some kind of connecters but in the end didn't. I only had to take mine off twice when I restored the set, the audio can had a busted slug so I had to get a parts set and replace it. I had my wife go over my work before I put it back on the first time and sure enough, she found a mistake I had made. I also replaced the tube sockets to be sure.

I used Pep Boys automotive electrical disconnects for my electrolytic assemblies in my Philco Seventeener. There were a number of them and I wanted the ability to disconnect and reconnect in case there was miswiring. No problems.

on a princess you can get away with just removing a few wires along the back, then the whole board can be unsoldered from the ground stakes and tilted back for easy access. leaving most of the wire attached.