I picked up a Sony Trinitron KV-27FS13 off Facebook Marketplace on Monday, early WEGA set with S-video and component inputs which I could certainly make good use of. This thing is 100 pounds though and I really don't want to have to carry it back out of the house for a long, LONG time so I'd like to know, do these early 2000s WEGA sets have anything that frequently fails? ICs, capacitors, stuff like that?

If it has the IIRC MCZ3000D IC (usually there's 2) those let go every few years and cause no start issues... replace with a new genuine Sony part (the fakes are junk) and an IC socket so next time it is a faster repair and you don't wear out the PCB and traces.

I picked up a Sony Trinitron KV-27FS13 off Facebook Marketplace on Monday, early WEGA set with S-video and component inputs which I could certainly make good use of. This thing is 100 pounds though and I really don't want to have to carry it back out of the house for a long, LONG time so I'd like to know, do these early 2000s WEGA sets have anything that frequently fails? ICs, capacitors, stuff like that?

The FS series was more low end, and was pretty reliable. Changed a bunch of CXA2154AS jungles, a few flybacks, and a 2.2 @250 somewhere in the power supply.

All you can do right now is to resolder the horiz driver transformer. These are known to develop circular cracks around the base.

John

The FS series was more low end, and was pretty reliable. Changed a bunch of CXA2154AS jungles, a few flybacks, and a 2.2 @250 somewhere in the power supply.

All you can do right now is to resolder the horiz driver transformer. These are known to develop circular cracks around the base.

John

It amuses me that a CRT set with a flat tube and S-video and component inputs could ever be considered "low-end", like, I know what you mean but a lot of the CRTs I was finding before this had mono sound and often only a RF connector for video!

The FS series was the bread & butter sets at the time. Nothing wrong with
them unless you need a feature not included. We sold tons of them. The FV series was the next step at the time. I dont remember the difference now but its near the same set with better audio & more jacks etc. Top of the line
sets were the XBR series. Lots of features & where new things were tried
first. For most the most part you cant tell the differences unless you are
looking for them as far as pix goes.

As far as keeping it running JohnCT is on the $$. Cold joints at the hoz
drive were common in them & a lot of other brands. Trouble is that can
cause the hoz output to short then blow the transistors in the power
supply to short. Bottom line is best thing is pull & flip over the chassis
& check the whole PCB for cold joints. Anything else will either fail or
not, its luck at that point.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

I'll have to fire up the soldering iron and freshen everything up when I've got the set in a more convenient location.