This PVM is probably the latest TV I've ever done (ca 1989), I recapped the full set after it was having some vertical issues, that basically rendered the set unusable. Now it doesn't turn on, and something is dragging the PSU voltages down. I think it's around 200 caps that I replaced in total. What's the best way to start troubleshooting and isolating the fault?

This PVM is probably the latest TV I've ever done (ca 1989), I recapped the full set after it was having some vertical issues, that basically rendered the set unusable. Now it doesn't turn on, and something is dragging the PSU voltages down. I think it's around 200 caps that I replaced in total. What's the best way to start troubleshooting and isolating the fault?

Is there a schematic on line anywhere?

My first two guesses is a solder bridge or a cap in backwards. BTW, sometimes the board is legended with the polarity backwards. I've learned to check the board markings as I remove a cap or diode to make sure it's printed correctly.

A quick (but certainly not exhaustive) check is to check the resistance to ground of every positive terminal of the caps. If any of the positive terminals read zero ohms to ground, the cap is either in a negative voltage circuit (normal reading) or it's in backwards.

This all presupposes that the caps in question are tied to ground one way or the other.


John

Good to know, I double checked everything as I worked, but it actually turned out to be a connector issue. Fixed it, and now I've got power again. Attached are the images of what I'm getting. I've replaced all of the electrolytics, but the weirdest thing was a pop about 30 seconds in, followed by brief smoke. However, I can't find a blown cap, though it appeared to come from the audio section. Either way, it's got horizontal squiggles that slowly rolls vertically. Possible sync issue?

That looks almost like something going on with the high voltage. It's out of focus as well in areas.

Yeah it's out of focus on the jittery parts. Any ideas where to look?

In the future, do ONE and only ONE board at a time, starting with the one where the problem (say deflection board if there is a deflection issue). This way, if you have a problem, you're not going to guessing where the issue could be.

I recapped the full set after it was having some vertical issues
There were only about six capacitors it likely needed (at one time I had them memorized-c415, c422, and a few others I think), but if you replaced 200 caps in one batch, anything could have happened (tiny solder bridges/droplets, poor contact, etc.) so my only suggestion is to look at every board that you worked on super-carefully for any physical issues.