Found a 1950 Admiral Set at my local dump the other day...It came in a nice cabinet, knobs and trim are all good!
It was sitting in front of the large dumpster and I just couldn't let it get crushed!
Brought it home, took out the chassis and CRT, easily came out in one piece, nice and convenient to work on!
CRT tested strong, so I thought I would proceed...
Recapped, and replaced bad resistors, but I am not getting the CRT to light up at all.
Tubes are all correct, good and strong, and I replaced what was needed.
The only thing is the 6BQ6 tube next to the HV cage was dead, and I didn't have a large coke bottle type to replace it with, but did have a smaller one... it's a little short, which I'm not sure is working properly... I had to use alligator clips to make up the height.
But it's still a 6BQ6, don't know if the size would make any difference.
Moved around the ion trap, no difference.

Is there a way to test for HV with a multimeter? I have a feeling
it's not getting the proper voltage.
Rechecked all my recap values and joints 3 times, everything looks good.
I believe there is a doorknob cap under the 1B3 tube?
Not sure how to check it, or if they ever go bad...
I appreciate any suggestions to help get this baby going again,
I'm sure I am close!!!!

Found a 1950 Admiral Set at my local dump the other day...It came in a nice cabinet, knobs and trim are all good!
It was sitting in front of the large dumpster and I just couldn't let it get crushed!
Brought it home, took out the chassis and CRT, easily came out in one piece, nice and convenient to work on!
CRT tested strong, so I thought I would proceed...
Recapped, and replaced bad resistors, but I am not getting the CRT to light up at all.
Tubes are all correct, good and strong, and I replaced what was needed.
The only thing is the 6BQ6 tube next to the HV cage was dead, and I didn't have a large coke bottle type to replace it with, but did have a smaller one... it's a little short, which I'm not sure is working properly... I had to use alligator clips to make up the height.
But it's still a 6BQ6, don't know if the size would make any difference.
Moved around the ion trap, no difference.

Is there a way to test for HV with a multimeter? I have a feeling
it's not getting the proper voltage.
Rechecked all my recap values and joints 3 times, everything looks good.
I believe there is a doorknob cap under the 1B3 tube?
Not sure how to check it, or if they ever go bad...
I appreciate any suggestions to help get this baby going again,
I'm sure I am close!!!!
Are you sure that it takes a 6BQ6?
Check the tube location diagram as most used a 6CD6, a different tube.

Did you have the ion trap off because putting it on backwards it won't work , maybe reverse the trap and see if that works.

Unless you have a special HV probe designed to allow your DMM to measure up to at least 20KV don't try measuring your HV with a DMM.

Ways to measure approximate HV level without a DMM include taking an insulated screwdriver with a grounded blade and seeing how long of an ARC you can draw between the CRT bell and screwdriver. It should be in the 1/4"-1/2" range. You can check if the flyback is being driven properly by the output by holding a CFL light bulb or neon indicator lamp close to the flyback and the plate leads of the H output tube and HV rect while the set is warmed up and running....If the flyback is being driven properly the unconnected bulb will illuminate within an inch or 2 of those parts as a result of the RF harmonics of the sweep frequency being radiated.
If the first test fails but the second test passes the problem is either the HV rectifier, doorknob cap (they can fail, but about half the time are fine), resistors on the base of the rectifier or HV rect filament winding.
I check doorknob capacitors by disconnecting what ever end is easiest and placing the bottom of the rectifier (and cap if still attached to the rect) in a glass jar or dish so it can't arc to chassis, etc.

Definitely follow Dave's advice first before going into the weeds I've paid out above. :D

Unless you have a special HV probe designed to allow your DMM to measure up to at least 20KV don't try measuring your HV with a DMM.

Ways to measure approximate HV level without a DMM include taking an insulated screwdriver with a grounded blade and seeing how long of an ARC you can draw between the CRT bell and screwdriver. It should be in the 1/4"-1/2" range. You can check if the flyback is being driven properly by the output by holding a CFL light bulb or neon indicator lamp close to the flyback and the plate leads of the H output tube and HV rect while the set is warmed up and running....If the flyback is being driven properly the unconnected bulb will illuminate within an inch or 2 of those parts as a result of the RF harmonics of the sweep frequency being radiated.
If the first test fails but the second test passes the problem is either the HV rectifier, doorknob cap (they can fail, but about half the time are fine), resistors on the base of the rectifier or HV rect filament winding.
I check doorknob capacitors by disconnecting what ever end is easiest and placing the bottom of the rectifier (and cap if still attached to the rect) in a glass jar or dish so it can't arc to chassis, etc.

Definitely follow Dave's advice first before going into the weeds I've paid out above. :D
I checked the ion trap, put it in both ways, still nothing...
Checked the resistors under the 1B3, the 470K is good, but the 2.7 ohm is reading 5.7...Not sure if that would matter?
Removed the doorknob cap, it's 500PF at 20,000 volts.
Can I test it like it is, or will it fry my multimeter?
Wonder if I could bypass that cap and run the set to see if I get a picture, or is that crazy?

I checked the ion trap, put it in both ways, still nothing...
Checked the resistors under the 1B3, the 470K is good, but the 2.7 ohm is reading 5.7...Not sure if that would matter?
Removed the doorknob cap, it's 500PF at 20,000 volts.
Can I test it like it is, or will it fry my multimeter?
Wonder if I could bypass that cap and run the set to see if I get a picture, or is that crazy?

You can test the cap with a meter for value if your DMM reads capacitance. I don't know too much about doorknobs but they may read OK for value but start turning into resistors when you put a lot of voltage across them. Maybe someone here can address that. Because they're ceramic, I don't think they get leaky like paper caps do with voltage across them, but I'm not positive.

If the doorknob reads like a resistor on your ohmmeter, it's bad.

Of course, don't put any meter in the running circuit unless it's a HV probe.

John

Are you sure that it takes a 6BQ6?
Check the tube location diagram as most used a 6CD6, a different tube.
Thanks, that would be the most obvious problem, since the tube that was originally in there was a 6CD6... but stamped in the chassis next to the tube socket it says “6CD6 or 6BQ6”. Are they not the same tube?
All I had was a 6BQ5 to replace it with.

Thanks, that would be the most obvious problem, since the tube that was originally in there was a 6CD6... but stamped in the chassis next to the tube socket it says “6CD6 or 6BQ6”. Are they not the same tube?
All I had was a 6BQ5 to replace it with.

Sorry, meant 6BQ6...

Thanks, that would be the most obvious problem, since the tube that was originally in there was a 6CD6... but stamped in the chassis next to the tube socket it says “6CD6 or 6BQ6”. Are they not the same tube?
All I had was a 6BQ5 to replace it with.
I looked up the tube data. The 6BQ6 is a totally different tube!
The 6CD6 has a totally different pin-out. The 6BG6 might work in a pinch.
All the side-mount 16" chassis used a 6CD6.

I looked up the tube data. The 6BQ6 is a totally different tube!
The 6CD6 has a totally different pin-out.

IIRC, plate connector cap is different diameter too. Like about 1/4" for the 'BQ6, 3/8" for the 'CD6.

Seems like the wrong tube is the problem.
If it still doesn't work you can check that the horizontal output is running, and therefore there should be HV, by bringing a compact fluorescent bulb near the horizontal output or flyback. If it lights up those are good.

You can eyeball the inside of the plate connector, to see whether it fits a small or large diameter cap. If large, it's not 6BQ6.

I looked up the tube data. The 6BQ6 is a totally different tube!
The 6CD6 has a totally different pin-out. The 6BG6 might work in a pinch.
All the side-mount 16" chassis used a 6CD6.

Why would both tube numbers be stamped near that tube socket?

Thanks for all the help...
I was wondering why the HV lead wire cap didn't fit on the top of any 6BQ6 tubes I had!
I'll have to just go ahead and order a 6BC6 tube...
Of course I have a million tubes, but not a 6BC6!!
I am assuming they stamped both numbers on the chassis next to the socket for different chassis circuits?
Will update once I get the new tube!
Thanks again!

You can test the cap with a meter for value if your DMM reads capacitance. I don't know too much about doorknobs but they may read OK for value but start turning into resistors when you put a lot of voltage across them. Maybe someone here can address that. Because they're ceramic, I don't think they get leaky like paper caps do with voltage across them, but I'm not positive.

If the doorknob reads like a resistor on your ohmmeter, it's bad.

Of course, don't put any meter in the running circuit unless it's a HV probe.

John

Doorknobs tend to fail leaky or shorted so a DMM won't catch it unless it shorts badly....I had one that leaked intermittently sometimes the set would wakeup and work normally other times it had absolutely no HV.
The best way to test a doorknob when you suspect it is the cause of no HV is to disconnect it on one end and keep use a glass object to prevent the HV from arcing at the disconnect point. Bypassing the doorknob cap (by that I assume you mean putting a short across it) is about the same as putting a gun to your foot and pulling the trigger...
The resistor in the rectifier base that has doubled in value is VERY bad and should be changed...that resistor is designed to limit the rectifier filament voltage and it's value must be precise. Too low and the HV rect filament is overvolted and dies fast, too high and the HV rect filament does not heat up enough for HV to pass through the rect to the CRT.

Your incorrect H output tube is your biggest problem right now though...Get that tube right first and then worry about the rect and doorknob if the HV stir ain't working.

Thanks for all the help...
I was wondering why the HV lead wire cap didn't fit on the top of any 6BQ6 tubes I had!
I'll have to just go ahead and order a 6BC6 tube...
Of course I have a million tubes, but not a 6BC6!!
I am assuming they stamped both numbers on the chassis next to the socket for different chassis circuits?
Will update once I get the new tube!
Thanks again!

I meant a 6CD6!!!!
Im must be getting old!!

Doorknobs tend to fail leaky or shorted so a DMM won't catch it unless it shorts badly....I had one that leaked intermittently sometimes the set would wakeup and work normally other times it had absolutely no HV.
The best way to test a doorknob when you suspect it is the cause of no HV is to disconnect it on one end and keep use a glass object to prevent the HV from arcing at the disconnect point. Bypassing the doorknob cap (by that I assume you mean putting a short across it) is about the same as putting a gun to your foot and pulling the trigger...
The resistor in the rectifier base that has doubled in value is VERY bad and should be changed...that resistor is designed to limit the rectifier filament voltage and it's value must be precise. Too low and the HV rect filament is overvolted and dies fast, too high and the HV rect filament does not heat up enough for HV to pass through the rect to the CRT.

Your incorrect H output tube is your biggest problem right now though...Get that tube right first and then worry about the rect and doorknob if the HV stir ain't working.

Thanks, will change out that resistor as well!

I meant a 6CD6!!!!
Im must be getting old!!

Me too.:tongue: If you got a good 6BG6 in your stash it should sub in a pinch.

Me too.:tongue: If you got a good 6BG6 in your stash it should sub in a pinch.

I do!
I'll try it now...

Put in the 6BG6 for a test...
Finally got a quick light up on the screen! Not very bright though, and then screen dies after 30 seconds...
At least it shows something starting up!

I just finished up an Admiral 24E1 chassis, looks very close to yours, same crt.
It looks like you may be missing the fuse and clips. there were two fuses used in those sets. One for the AC mains 120 volts and the other for B+ to the horizontal output tube / flyback circuit. I normally see a bit of blue glow in the horizontal output tube if the B+ is working correctly.
Ed

Getting the right value for that 1B3 filament resistor will help sustain the HV.

Thanks to Old Coot's suggestion for a temporary use of a 6BG6, I finally got some good brightness, and life!!!
Picture was dying quickly at first, then I remembered the ion trap wasn't positioned properly...
Here's what I got after only 15-30 seconds, didn't want to leave it running too long with the wrong tube in place... Will now order a new tube, and change out that 1b3 2.7 ohm resistor...
Thanks to all your good help, I'm back in business!
I almost gave up...thanks again for all the help!!!!

PS... There is a 6H6 in the socket of what says:" 6AE5 or 6H6"
Wonder if I should I use a 6AE5 instead?

Can't find any listing for 6AE5. keep the 6H6 in. You should be OK running the 6BG6 temporarily. Just in case, watch it for any sign of red plating or sweep width diminishing.

Some sets made around the Korean war had changes to the tube line up and other weirdness to account for shortages. Check the base wiring of that tube against the schematic...if it matches that of the tube of the schematic but not the one in the set then the schematic is right, but if it is significantly different from the schematic it may be a production change not documented on the schematic you have.

Other weird things they did included using odd looking German resistors and or American made factory rejects where the marked value was wrong but the measured value was right...

Please disregard what I said about the chassis your sets fuses are. It looks like you have the Admiral 21E1 chassis. It used a 6H6 in place of a 6AL5 some of the production runs.
Ed

Please disregard what I said about the chassis your sets fuses are. It looks like you have the Admiral 21E1 chassis. It used a 6H6 for the some of the production runs.
Ed

Thanks for your input, good eye!
Actually there are two fuse holders, one was never used...
When I took the fuse out to check it, the holder broke and came out with it!
So , I used the spare fuse holder.

Some sets made around the Korean war had changes to the tube line up and other weirdness to account for shortages. Check the base wiring of that tube against the schematic...if it matches that of the tube of the schematic but not the one in the set then the schematic is right, but if it is significantly different from the schematic it may be a production change not documented on the schematic you have.

Other weird things they did included using odd looking German resistors and or American made factory rejects where the marked value was wrong but the measured value was right...
I remember seeing German Siemens resistors with the flat leads and Koaohn
Japanese resistors. Those are the dog-bone style. Also series-parallel combinations used. I saw it more in Admirals, than outer makes.

I remember seeing German Siemens resistors with the flat leads and Koaohn
Japanese resistors. Those are the dog-bone style. Also series-parallel combinations used. I saw it more in Admirals, than outer makes.

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

Half the value,( sum of resistance in parallel ) is O.K. Just be certain to maintain the sum of the wattages or better. E.I if you have two 2 watt resistors in parallel use a 4 or 5 watt.
Ed

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

Inu no hone ? :p

Some sets made around the Korean war had changes to the tube line up and other weirdness to account for shortages. Check the base wiring of that tube against the schematic...if it matches that of the tube of the schematic but not the one in the set then the schematic is right, but if it is significantly different from the schematic it may be a production change not documented on the schematic you have.

Other weird things they did included using odd looking German resistors and or American made factory rejects where the marked value was wrong but the measured value was right...

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

I have an Admiral 26R12 that is identical to the one I had as a teenager. It has a rectangular all glass CRT. I restored it (even though it was working!) and during the restoration I found out from many of the members here and on the Antique Radio Forum that there was a component shortage possibly due to the Korean War Effort. I also found many paralleled resistors and thought that some idiot "Had been there".

So, what you are finding is OK; normal. I suspect that if the final value of the combination is correct, you can leave it. Heck, it is part of the set's history.

Would anyone have a schematic for this Admiral 21D1 Chassis?
I found similar types, but not specifically the "21D1"...

The Early Television Foundation has a PDF copy of Riders TV covering the 21D1 Admiral chassis. The 21D1 chassis is covered on the last two pages of a 26 page file.

https://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/admiral_21b1_rider_tv6.pdf

Ed

You might also get something out of looking through my restoration of a similar Admiral set. http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269953

It also have some odd parts including a 6H6 tube.

The Early Television Foundation has a PDF copy of Riders TV covering the 21D1 Admiral chassis. The 21D1 chassis is covered on the last two pages of a 26 page file.

https://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/admiral_21b1_rider_tv6.pdf

Ed

Awesome! Thanks!!
I looked up the 2.7ohm and the 470K resistors that are under the 1B3 tube, and schematic is showing the 2.7 as a 1/2 watt and the 470K as a 1 watt;

Visually the 2.7ohm really looks like a 1 watt, but should I just replace it with a 1/2 watt like the schematic shows? That's all I have anyway, unless I order a 1 watt.

Half watt is fine in that application. :yes:

Half watt is fine in that application. :yes:

Perfect! Thanks for the help!!

You might also get something out of looking through my restoration of a similar Admiral set. http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269953

It also have some odd parts including a 6H6 tube.

Thanks, I actually did watch and enjoy a lot of your videos...and especially learned to be careful of the steel CRT when it's running and exposed! I would have never considered that a danger at all!

Awesome! Thanks!!
I looked up the 2.7ohm and the 470K resistors that are under the 1B3 tube, and schematic is showing the 2.7 as a 1/2 watt and the 470K as a 1 watt;

Visually the 2.7ohm really looks like a 1 watt, but should I just replace it with a 1/2 watt like the schematic shows? That's all I have anyway, unless I order a 1 watt.
I worked on a lot of these old sets. I've yet to see a bad resistor in the HV rectifier filament circuit or a bad doorknob capacitor. Not saying it can't happen. I haven't worked on one in 50 years. :sigh:

I worked on a lot of these old sets. I've yet to see a bad resistor in the HV rectifier filament circuit or a bad doorknob capacitor. Not saying it can't happen. I haven't worked on one in 50 years. :sigh:
You may be right, I only tested the 2.7ohm resistor in the circuit, many times after I take out a resistor, it measures fine...

Okay, replaced all resistors as needed, and now just waiting for the 6CD6 tube to get here...

Quick question: there is a .47 capacitor ( C211 ) off of the 6AV6 tube, which I replaced, but Sams and Rider schematics both show it to only be a .047...
Did they make a mistake at the factory?

In the audio stages capacitance value is non-critical....you could probably install whichever value sounds better and the set won't care which that is.

In the audio stages capacitance value is non-critical....you could probably install whichever value sounds better and the set won't care which that is.

Perfect... that’s good to know, thanks!

Okay, now that I replaced about 7 resistors, I get nothing on the screen again!
I looked over the values and locations many times...
I did remove some strange looking resistors, at least according to the schematic they're supposed to be resistors...
Maybe these are just those unusual types found in these sets because of the war?
Just want to be sure I didn't remove something I shouldn't have!

Do the color codes on the parts match the value on the schematic?
At least one of the parts in the bottom row look like it may be a coil.

Okay, replaced all resistors as needed, and now just waiting for the 6CD6 tube to get here...

Quick question: there is a .47 capacitor ( C211 ) off of the 6AV6 tube, which I replaced, but Sams and Rider schematics both show it to only be a .047...
Did they make a mistake at the factory?

Why did you not remove the old wax paper capacitor? It isn't still connected is it?

Why did you not remove the old wax paper capacitor? It isn't still connected is it?

hard to tell from the pic, but perhaps it is just being used for support.

Do the color codes on the parts match the value on the schematic?
At least one of the parts in the bottom row look like it may be a coil.

Yes, the color codes do match the schematics values, all except the 2 small brown resistors tied together, they only have one green stripe each, but are close to the schematics value when measured...

Also, the old wax capacitor shown was riveted in place, and I just figured I'd leave it and use it for support, as Yamamaya said... though I did cut it out of the circuit...

I put in a temporary 6BG6 tube, and got light on the screen...
figured i'd replace about 8 resistors that were not close in spec... now I get nothing.
So frustrating...
I have learned with electronics it can usually be a very simple overlooked item, like the wrong value resistor, bad soldering job, etc...I have rechecked my work over and over.
I even went ahead and put back the old resistors just to see, still nothing.
In the future I think I'll replace one component at a time and see if ieverything still works before proceeding...

Okay, finally figured out what I did wrong...

I replaced the 2.7ohm resistor under the 1B3 tube, with a 27ohm!
I installed a new 2.7 but still no picture?

Could I have done any damage to something using that over valued resistor??

No damage should have come from using the high resistor....it would be no different from a HV rect with an open heater.

Have you tried holding a CFL light bulb next to the flyback and or H output tube with the set running to check for drive to the flyback?

No damage should have come from using the high resistor....it would be no different from a HV rect with an open heater.

Have you tried holding a CFL light bulb next to the flyback and or H output tube with the set running to check for drive to the flyback?

Thanks, good to know that didn't hurt anything...
Yes, I just tried the bulb now... Looks like the flyback is running...
The only difference in what i did, is that the 2.7ohm resistor was originally a
1 watt; my replacement is a 1/2 watt...
Schematic only calls for a 1/2watt.
Old Coot said it should be fine...

The only difference in what i did, is that the 2.7ohm resistor was originally a
1 watt; my replacement is a 1/2 watt...
Schematic only calls for a 1/2watt.
Old Coot said it should be fine...

OC is right.

If you have a pulse at the fly and no HV, the rectifier tube is the next suspect.

What I would do if I didn't have a HV probe handy is to hold an insulated screwdriver at my fingertips and touch the cap of the HV rectifier tube. In a dark room, you should see the soft blue arcing between the tip of the screwdriver and the cap. Make sure the tool keeps at least two inches of plastic between your fingers and the metal shaft. If that CCFL tube lights, you should get a soft arc from the cap of the HV rectifier tube to the screwdriver.

If you see the arc, move to the anode connection on the picture tube and see if you have it there. If not, the HV rectifier tube or doorknob cap might be bad.

John

The 1B3 filament glows a soft orange when in operation. In a darkened room, you should be able to see it glowing if you look up from underneath the tube. No glow = no go. :D

The 1B3 filament glows a soft orange when in operation. In a darkened room, you should be able to see it glowing if you look up from underneath the tube. No glow = no go. :D

mine was bad... REALLY BAD.
https://imgur.com/z7NnpHg

while I waited for a new one to come, I got it to work by ripping apart an old microwave and using the HV diode in there.

mine was bad... REALLY BAD.
https://imgur.com/z7NnpHg

Hm... talk about gaslighting.

If the rect heater is good and lighting but there is no HV at the CRT you can check the doorknob capacitor by disconnecting one end. Make sure that which ever end you disconnect you slip a cup, saucer small jar or some other glass or ceramic insulator in the disconnect gap to prevent arcing.

...you should get a soft arc from the cap of the HV rectifier tube to the screwdriver.

If you see the arc, move to the anode connection on the picture tube and see if you have it there. If not, the HV rectifier tube or doorknob cap might be bad.
Small quibble, but you won't get that 'air arc' from the CRT anode like you do from the 1B3 cap, since the CRT anode voltage is DC. The 'air arc' is from high level RF ('fly-back') spikes from the flyback.

A b&k hv probe is not TOO overpriced these days, are they? :o

OC is right.

If you have a pulse at the fly and no HV, the rectifier tube is the next suspect.

What I would do if I didn't have a HV probe handy is to hold an insulated screwdriver at my fingertips and touch the cap of the HV rectifier tube. In a dark room, you should see the soft blue arcing between the tip of the screwdriver and the cap. Make sure the tool keeps at least two inches of plastic between your fingers and the metal shaft. If that CCFL tube lights, you should get a soft arc from the cap of the HV rectifier tube to the screwdriver.

If you see the arc, move to the anode connection on the picture tube and see if you have it there. If not, the HV rectifier tube or doorknob cap might be bad.

John
Thanks, did what you suggested and yes, I did get a soft good stead arc at the cap of the 1B3... nothing at the CRT anode.
I then tried a bunch of used 1B3 tubes I had laying around, but still nothing...
Then I turned down the brightness halfway, and got a picture!

I was testing all the time with the brightness up, which should have been fine, since it was all the way up when I first got a decent picture.

Problem is, picture is barely visible now, and blooms and goes dark if I turn up the brightness more than halfway...

Also washes out and brightens a little when I turn up and down the contrast, it almost acts like a brightness knob.

$120 for a B&K Precision HV44A High Voltage Probe ??

that's over 4x what I got mine for years ago :o

Sometimes there is a high valued resistor in series with the HV lead that can go bad. Have you measured the resistance from the base of the HV rectifier to the metal cone ?

Be sure to discharge it first. ALso make sure the HV lead is making good contact with the metal cone. I assume there's some sort of clip on the rim ?

$120 for a B&K Precision HV44A High Voltage Probe ??

that's over 4x what I got mine for years ago :o

Glad I don't buy my probes on eBay... I've gotten 3-4 used Pomona HV meter/probes similar to my model 4000 from swapmeets over the last 10 years and none has cost me more than 1/10th of that.

Blooming with brightness turned up is due to HV failure as CRT beam current lugs down the HV supply. Have you verified visually that the 1B3 filament is glowing (as suggested previously)? If it's not glowing, it hasn't got enough emission to sustain the HV under load.

(EDIT) If it's not glowing, I would temporarily jumper that 2.7 ohm resistor and see if the filament glows.

Blooming with brightness turned up is due to HV failure as CRT beam current lugs down the HV supply. Have you verified visually that the 1B3 filament is glowing (as suggested previously)? If it's not glowing, it hasn't got enough emission to sustain the HV under load.

(EDIT) If it's not glowing, I would temporarily jumper that 2.7 ohm resistor and see if the filament glows.

The X-rays you would be exposing yourself to wont be THAT dangerous! :D :yikes:

It's not like you will grow a 3rd eye or a 2nd head or anything! :)

I read back through this thread and saw that you did check the 470K in series with the HV lead. I've seen those resistors act weird. Possibly as a result of carbon tracks from years of HV around them. Wouldn't hurt to replace it or jump it. Ditto to jumping the 2.7 ohm on the 1B3. Something is limiting your HV current.

this looks a lot like your chassis
https://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/admiral_20x1_sams_100-1.pdf
or pretty close
and it seems there is 1 1m resistor in series with the HV output lead,

I believe he has a somewhat newer 21D1 chassis: https://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/admiral_21b1_rider_tv6.pdf

between the 2, it should get him in the ballpark for what he seems to have, if he can't find what it is for sure, I was not able to find ant that has that weird arrangement of the HV rect on top of the cap in the pic like he showed.. that is a bit weird :o

I read back through this thread and saw that you did check the 470K in series with the HV lead. I've seen those resistors act weird. Possibly as a result of carbon tracks from years of HV around them. Wouldn't hurt to replace it or jump it. Ditto to jumping the 2.7 ohm on the 1B3. Something is limiting your HV current.

Thanks, I will change out that 470K just in case, I think it measured 450K; and i'll jump the 2.7 like Old Coot suggested and see what i get...
First I'll look to see if the 1B3 tube has a glow at all, forgot to do that...

Checked, and no glow at all on the 1B3 tube...
In the morning I'll change out the 470K, then jumper the 2.7 ohm and see if it glows... thanks everyone!!

between the 2, it should get him in the ballpark for what he seems to have, if he can't find what it is for sure, I was not able to find ant that has that weird arrangement of the HV rect on top of the cap in the pic like he showed.. that is a bit weird :o

Look at the last page of the 21D1 service info. It's shown in the middle of the page.

Look at the last page of the 21D1 service info. It's shown in the middle of the page.

I see it now :p

As Notimetolooz noted, it looks like the three strange resistors on the bottom are not resistors. They are either capacitors or inductors. If you still have the three parts you removed , you can check them with an ohm meter. If they were resistors as you thought, then you will get readings fairly close to the color codes. Where in the circuit did you remove them from ? Also make sure your Horizontal Drive Adjustment capacitor is not tightened all the way, it can cause the picture brightness to act up because your horizontal output will start to red plate as the set warms up. You can check for an arc at the base of your 1B3, the filament pins. See Post # 45's picture.
Ed

Hope everybody doesn't hate me, but today when I went to jump the 2.7 resistor,
I noticed I didn't put in a 2.7ohm, but a 2.7K ohm...
My resistor drawer, marked 2.7ohm, had a few 2.7k's mixed in.
I obviously didn't pay enough attention to the multiplier band, and was only focused on the red and violet.
I must be getting old as I mentioned earlier.
Sorry to waste everyone's time like that... I do appreciate the help.

There is now a clear picture, and the CRT is nice and bright!
Glad I rescued this from the dumpster.

The only thing now is the audio dies down pretty quickly and there is an annoying buzzing sound in the speaker. Volume is maybe halfway clear.
There's also some horizontal lines across the screen, I did try to carefully adjust a few horizontal pots in the back, but didn't do much...
I was able to follow the schematics guide to adjust the horizontal Drive, which did get rid of the center vertical lines though.

Glad you found the problem. If those are retrace lines, there is a circuit modification you can make to suppress them.
The modification for this and many other Admiral models can be found in the Riders publication.
http://oldtubes.net/library/free_manuals/TV_Trouble%20Cures_Vol_1.pdf

Or they might be from copyright encoding.

Also that the image is in 4:3 format and should not fill the whole screen vertically.

Something more like this taken from my set with the same chassis.
https://flic.kr/p/23iBMxx

Looks good, :thmbsp:. You could try setting the brightness lower to reduce the vertical retrace lines. There may also have been a revision for that chassis/ model to reduce retrace lines. Look through literature in the pdf file.

Glad you found the problem. If those are retrace lines, there is a circuit modification you can make to suppress them.
The modification for this and many other Admiral models can be found in the Riders publication.
http://oldtubes.net/library/free_manuals/TV_Trouble%20Cures_Vol_1.pdf

Or they might be from copyright encoding.

Also that the image is in 4:3 format and should not fill the whole screen vertically.

Something more like this taken from my set with the same chassis.
https://flic.kr/p/23iBMxx

Thanks... good to know; and I was doing my best to fill the screen with the vertical adjustments!
I will take a look at that TV trouble cures book and see if I can't fine tune this now...

You can see where I added the retrace mod near the top of my restoration thread: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269953&page=2