Got this set last Wednesday for FREE. I took care of the god awful cataract and it has a really bright picture, but, no color. I found a jumper wire near the 6GU7’s that was pretty darn corroded, I replaced that and now there are color bars and they aren’t syncing. I tried adjusting the osc. Coil and that didn’t do much. I will be checking some other things tomorrow. The stereo works and sounds great but has a low-ish hum that slightly fades when the vol control is halfway but gets louder as you turn the control up.

Forgot to upload photos; here they are.

Kewl ! Neat set ! Ya done good !

Great CTC16X project there with classic RCA issues that sound familiar. Cataract appears to be a fall-off easy one, lucky you! Stock up on solder for PW700 fun:)

Forgot to upload photos; here they are.

There's two wires that need replacement on that side of the color board.
I relocate them to the bottom of the board.
Dave. :thmbsp:

There's two wires that need replacement on that side of the color board.
I relocate them to the bottom of the board.
Dave. :thmbsp:

Do those wires really cause that much of a problem? Cause they seem to be fine on mine, then again, they may have been replaced before I got it.

Really nice picture. Looks like the jug is in very good condition. It should have nice color once you figure out the sync issue.

Check out this crusty goodness. Looks like I’ll be replacing the terminal strip.

Check out this crusty goodness. Looks like I’ll be replacing the terminal strip.


Mine was in exactly the same shape, that 1.4k (r211) resistor tends to get very hot. :( , but was OK in mine, also, replace that 1k resistor (r136) near it, it has been cooking for all this time, and will make the HV drift. I have a new 1% in mine now.

Regarding the color bars...the easiest way to adjust T703 3.58 oscillator coil (with color signal applied) is to short pin 2 of V703 (3.58 osc. tube) to ground and adjust for minimum number of stripes. Though circuit may need further work, you'll have the coil at a known good point.

You will find that several other terminal strips will need replacing and bunches of solder joints will need to be re-flowed. Reposition the power resistors while you are at it.

Though the resistor layout wasn't the best, it sure put a lot of bread on the table.

Check out this crusty goodness. Looks like I’ll be replacing the terminal strip.

I've never seen one with the cruddy look to many of the connections. Of course, it's been at least 30 years ago since the last time I worked on one.
The CTC16, CTC16X was a great chassis. :thmbsp:

Got a new varistor, thermistor, 6GM7 and two caps in the vertical section. Still waiting on a new terminal strip. Tested the HV today and it pegged my meter. Tested 1k that’s on pin one of the 6BK4 and the two 1.5Ks that goes to the HV adjust control and all three are pretty much right on. Suspecting the 6BK4 right now.

Yep, put in a new 6BK4 and with a slight tweak of the HV control, it’s down to 25000 volts.

Got a new varistor, thermistor, 6GM7 and two caps in the vertical section. Still waiting on a new terminal strip. Tested the HV today and it pegged my meter. Tested 1k that’s on pin one of the 6BK4 and the two 1.5Ks that goes to the HV adjust control and all three are pretty much right on. Suspecting the 6BK4 right now.

I will assume that to be a typo, cause R135/137 are listed as 1.5 meg, however, it does say in horz sweep setup, to set to 24kv, not that the 1kv diff will matter much, what does matter is the horz output cathode current and the voltage drop across R136, have heard from many sources that too high cathode current will cook your FBT. :(

I will assume that to be a typo, cause R135/137 are listed as 1.5 meg, however, it does say in horz sweep setup, to set to 24kv, not that the 1kv diff will matter much, what does matter is the horz output cathode current and the voltage drop across R136, have heard from many sources that too high cathode current will cook your FBT. :(

Yeah, I meant to say 1.5 meg. I haven’t checked the cath. Current, but that will be done in a few days when I can get back to the set.

I have heard from many sources that too high cathode current will cook your FBT. :(

Yes, along with cooking the H out tube.

I turned the color osc. Coil about 8 times and then color! And it looks quite good. Still need to tweak the vertical linearity and convergence.