I managed to obtain this pair of Canadian Admirals. 19A11, 19A12. They are 25 Hz sets. No cracks or breaks in the Bakelite. The one with the dark screen has a dark piece of plastic (filter ?) that makes it look like the picture tube isn't there. Obtained from a woman who's husband was a tv repairman. They had been stored in the attic as long as she could remember. One has a homemade back cover. Nice clean chassis. Minor scratches in the Bakelite cabinets. Both chassis have all the original parts. Thick layers of original dust.
Is there an easy way to remove the picture tube socket ? I've been using a large wooden dowel and applying pressure to the center "button" on the picture tube plug while pulling back on the socket, as I don't want to loosen the glue on the tube neck. They seem to be on there pretty snug.
Tony

Hi there DO Not STOP Hitting the center of the crt cap you will brake the crt
use a very small flat edge srew driver and insert the small flate blade between the crt cape that has wires plug and the crt plug and wiggle the screw driver
very carefully or you could brake the cap on the crt. be carfull the 7jp4 is rare and hard to replace i have 8 admirals tv all start with 19a1 or 19a12 and 19a15

Do not brake the center of the crt key way there a glass steam inside the cap

good luck clifford

Thanks for the tip. I am not hitting the center of the crt, just applying equal, and opposite pressure to the connector so the crt connector does not rip off as I pull on the plug. I wasn't sure about trying to work the 2 apart with a screwdriver as I thought the bakelite would be brittle and possibly break or crack.
Tony

Another thing to try, I don't think any harm would be done if you sprayed a bit of WD40 or similar into the joint between the socket and cap. Perhaps clean off the oil later with alcohol.

be carfull the 7jp4 is rare and hard to replace
I've got 2 spare 7JP4s and 4 TVs that use them...They are probably the 4th most common CRT behind 10BP4s 12LP4s and 21FBP22s.

Hehehehehehe...Remember back in the good old days, going into a Ratshak, & trying to get away from the pimply faced youngster who immediately attached himself to you & followed you around thru the whole store? I, on numerous occaisions have neen known to send these poor wretches off in search of a 7JP4, or a 15GP22, & then when 15 minutes, they couldn't find either, i'd have to explain what they WERE. Often as not, near the end of Ratshak, I'd have to explain what a cathode ray tube was... At least the kid would be out of my hair for awhile, I could try to "Shade-Tree mechanic" some obscure ham or military antenna connector that was the real reason for my visit. I honestly think military radios used such a tremendous difference of antenna connector styles was that the radio mtgers could jack the price up on Ol' Unca Sugar... In my day, I have seen several "N" connectors that were used military cut-offs that looked suspiciously silver plated, but the internal gubbins were not, which was the only place silver plating could have made any real difference. "N" connectors are what my beloved "R-3XX series of sets use.When I got my 1st one, about 20 yrs back, "N" connectors were almost Unobtainium, I made do w/a6' piece of wire folded over on itself a few times, crammed into the antenna connector hole, & barring a bit of static, it worked fine.

Heh, we use N connectors all the time in radio stuff for water/wastewater plants. Though now everyone's going cellular, so, everything's SMA all of the sudden.

But, up to 1 Ghz or so, everything radio used to be N. No idea why. Oddly, the 2.8 Ghz radios were TNC.

The Noobs in the shop have no clue. Today, it's just give the thing power, slap the sim card in and go. No more antenna alignment or crap like that...

Well I was able to separate the two connectors. By gently prying between the two connectors. I could not believe how tight (almost welded together) they were. The crt plug must have silver coated connectors as they are black with oxidation. What is the best cleaner for this ? I have yet to find a product that will dissolve the oxidation without adverse effects. Pure ammonia, I find works the best on chassis, but hard to apply in small connectors. The silver cleaner for silverware works well, but seems to leave a nasty residue that doesn't clean off. Caig deoxit isn't great, as are several other contact cleaners, LPS pentrating oil, naptha, lacquer thinner, vinegar, denatured alcohol, CLR, WD-40. Too bad I'm all out of carbon tetrachloride.
tony

PUH-LEEZE Be Careful fooling around w/the Business end of ANY CRT. I dunno if a 25hz 7JP4 is any different than a "Regular" one, but because of Murphy's law, they likely are, & Rotsa Ruck finding one now. In any case, methinks you made one H3lluva score !

Well ... The crt plug must have silver coated connectors as they are black with oxidation. What is the best cleaner for this ? ...
tony

I think it's better not to clean silver contacts. Silver oxide is conductive, and cleaners may pit the silver and make it re-tarnish quicker, according to what I find on-line.