Hi everyone,
I have my Zenith (28T962R) Roundie working pretty well at this point, and was just wondering about replacing several rubber parts that have long ago turned to goo. I'm also wondering what compound I might need to add to prevent arcing around the anode cap of the CRT.

First about the HV- From what I can tell from other images of my model, it doesn't look like the set ever had a rubber dome/cone around the anode cap. Should I find a suitable replacement and add one? There are some that look like they would work on ebay. Or is there some kind of wax/silicone/grease I can use? It doesn't arc visibly but I can hear it every once in a while, especially if the humidity is high.

As for the other rubber - that supports the CRT - is there a suitable replacement? There are two round pads on the left and right bottom and there is supposed to be a strap between the CRT and metal retaining band. I have found this on amazon, it looks like it would work.. and what about the rubber 'feet'?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGM43C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

for rubber feet for tv's i usually go to the hardware store and buy "door bump stops" i dont know if they are called like that in English,sorry.
they are available in different sizes and in black or brown, they usually match preety good the factory rubber feet

if you want something slimmer for a tabletop there are those felt pads to put on the feet of chairs and furniture

here in my area we have something callled "rubber house" or rubber shop...they have a huge warehouse fully loaded with all types or rubber parts, rubber profiles, feet, covers, whatever is made of rubber they have it

on my BW sets (50's 60's) some of them dont have a rubber dome around the anode connection...if i ever feel the need to i would just use a rubber dome from a modern colour set...dessolder the spring thing that clips to the crt, slip the rubber dome on the wire, ressolder and slip the dome over again. make sure not to leave pointy edges on the solder, make a nice round blob. on moist areas were arcing can occur around the anode connection some people here used vaseline to "seal" around the rubber dome but i never tried it so i cannot say if i recommend

i think the rubber band between the strap and the glass is there to prevent the glass to crack when tightening the strap and when handling the set...i think its important, but i would be very carefull to mess around that area especially on a tv that is already working well...if i wanted to do that i would definetely do it before any other work on the tv...

Another couple of places are W.W. Grainger-They have shops in most larger cities-and McMaster-Carr, 404-346-7000. MC Master has EXACTLY what you want-I wish I had their part number, but I remember buying a bag of 12 of 'em about 10 yrs back, & have used 'em on several projects. Grainger's has this ginormous catalog called the "Motorbook", they are sorta a Radio Shack on steroids. You want a left-handed whatchamacall it for yr righy handed hooberbloob ? No problem. They'll even have the rare north & south versions, too. McMaster is a little bit chary on giving out THEIR catalogs, but they have even more "Oddments" than Grainger's does.. But go to yr local Grainger's grab a Motorbook, hurry home, grab yr fave beverage, pile up on the porcelain throne in the Reading Room, & prepare to be AMAZED.... Don't blame me if you find at least 100 bux worth of Gotta Haves, either...

on moist areas were arcing can occur around the anode connection some people here used vaseline to "seal" around the rubber dome but i never tried it so i cannot say if i recommend
.

Do not use any petroleum products around rubber, it will degrade most types of rubber. Silicone grease or oil can be used.

Thanks Sandy_G! I'll check em out!

Do not use any petroleum products around rubber, it will degrade most types of rubber. Silicone grease or oil can be used.

Ok, thanks for the tip! I ordered a NOS anode cap from ebay so that should work well enough.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/crt-anode-cap-oscilloscope-small-crt-picture-tube-sale-is-for-2-NOS/323747508495?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm not sure of the physics, but isn't it the case that - within the cap - once the air is ionized it stops arcing? So a cap should be enough? ..

There shouldn't be any arcing under the cap. The anode lead should have a clip on the end that makes firm physical contact with the CRT cap.

What CRT the HV lead clipped to the outer rim hear the face. I'm thinking yours made have been retrofitted to use an all glass CRT and the HV lead doesn't have the proper cap on the end.

That 404 number I gave you was an Atlanta number, that was the closest McMaster facility to Greater Bugtussle here. In a former life, I was the Purchasing agent for a largish Gravure printing company, my Maintenance dept was forever having me call 'em & order all manner of baubles, bangles, beads, etc. We were typically only a day out from McMaster-I hardly remember ordering anything from them that was beyond a week delivery-in other words, they kept virtually EVERYTHING in their massive catalog was in stock. Yeah, you MIGHT find it locally, & MAYBE a tad cheaper, but yr local yokel prolly wouldn't have it in stock, & would likely spend a lot of time on the phone tryin' to find it for you. Often as not, He'd just get it from McMaster or Grainger's as well... THAT happened to me on several occasions, when I was just a Cub purchasing agent...(Grin)

There shouldn't be any arcing under the cap. The anode lead should have a clip on the end that makes firm physical contact with the CRT cap.

What CRT the HV lead clipped to the outer rim hear the face. I'm thinking yours made have been retrofitted to use an all glass CRT and the HV lead doesn't have the proper cap on the end.

This is the original Visitron 12KP4 tube that came with the set.. As far as I can tell. The photofacts also specify it has a 12KP4 or 12LP4.. Here's a pic. It looks like there was some kind or rubber or tar to insulate it.

Also, I'm posting an album with a few more pics (https://imgur.com/a/GxZE9x8).. It's going to be beautiful once it's done.

PS- not to change topic, but banderson- love your YT vids. I've learned a lot from you and shango. If I recall, you have a ton of knobs? Do you happen to have a contrast knob hanging around for this set? I'd love to buy it if so! I made a separate post in this forum topic. (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=271484)

For the anode lead get a few off modern junk sets.
Clean around the anode with 91% isopropyl alcohol.
Rub a plain candle around the button reduces arcing also. Be sure the anode button dont have rust in it. Check the glass for etching from constant
arcing.

73 Zeno:smoke:
LFOD !

Some 50's sets did not use a rubber boot over the connector...You could probably get away with the original connector if cleaning the glass and trying other advice like the candle trick and rust removal work.

That 404 number I gave you was an Atlanta number, that was the closest McMaster facility to Greater Bugtussle here. In a former life, I was the Purchasing agent for a largish Gravure printing company, my Maintenance dept was forever having me call 'em & order all manner of baubles, bangles, beads, etc. We were typically only a day out from McMaster-I hardly remember ordering anything from them that was beyond a week delivery-in other words, they kept virtually EVERYTHING in their massive catalog was in stock. Yeah, you MIGHT find it locally, & MAYBE a tad cheaper, but yr local yokel prolly wouldn't have it in stock, & would likely spend a lot of time on the phone tryin' to find it for you. Often as not, He'd just get it from McMaster or Grainger's as well... THAT happened to me on several occasions, when I was just a Cub purchasing agent...(Grin)

Exactly, Grainger and McMaster-Carr is your best friend for many things we need in this hobby (and a broadcast engineer's best friend). SandyG is right on this one. Grainger is for the ones which get it done, commercial out of the way!!!!