Guys I found the cabinet and a donor chassis. This thread will be on the restoration and marriage of both.

I got the cabinet but it didn't have the chassis or speaker. I then bought an Arvin console TV from the same year. Both TV's are 21". Both had all glass picture tubes in them. Rider's says they should have 21MP4 metal/glass CRT's. More on that a little later.

Here is the cabinet:

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https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2482a.jpg

Here is a picture of the backside of the donor.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2499a.jpg

The cabinet CRT had this label on it:

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2485a.jpg

Sure enough I confirmed that it was a 8213 that we had growing up.

Now some pictures of the chassis.

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When I bought the console I noticed that the HV cage cover was missing. We looked at another Arvin console the guy had and sure enough that cage was missing too. After getting it home and pulled out of the cabinet, it was apparent why it wasn't there. Both TV's originally came with a 21MP4 a metal/glass CRT. Both of these TV's had all glass CRT's. They were 21ZP4A and a 21ZP4B. The glass tubes were larger and the retrofit required "modifying" the HV cage.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2531a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2532a.jpg

Of course I'll rework the cage by putting on a sloped corner and cover.

Here is the standard bottom picture of the chassis. Not bad.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2535a.jpg

Yeah, there were rodents here one time.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2552a.jpg

Another challenge will be because this chassis really isn't the correct one, it is not a slip fit in. The front controls are about 1/2" high. Looks like I could lower them without too many problems. Also the "Pencil Box" controls will have to be moved more to the right and the chassis has 5 controls and a slide switch. My cabinet has 3 controls (plus a spare hole) and a slide switch. One of the front panel controls will have to be "hidden" somehow. I'm sure I can work it out.

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A big undertaking for sure.

BTW, it doesn't hurt asking if anybody might have one of these TV's complete and would be willing to sell or even just the right chassis number either a TE-319 or a TE-330?

Congrats and good luck.

Maybe you can replace one of the single pots with a concentric shaft dual pot to get the number of shafts poking into the pencil box down, but keep all the controls accessible.

Congrats and good luck.

Maybe you can replace one of the single pots with a concentric shaft dual pot to get the number of shafts poking into the pencil box down, but keep all the controls accessible.

Thanks. A good suggestion. I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks. A good suggestion. I'll keep it in mind.

The Arvin set shown in entry number 23 from your earlier thread is a newer model using a 90 degree CRT. It also used a heater transformer and a voltage doubler. They also built that set for Sears.
The set shown in this thread is really impressive. Arvin engineer's must've thought, "We can build a set that is as good or better than the big guys."
They also built that model for Sears. It must've been their TOTL model that year. Those used either a 21AP4 or a glass 21ZP4.

The Arvin set shown in entry number 23 from your earlier thread is a newer model using a 90 degree CRT. It also used a heater transformer and a voltage doubler. They also built that set for Sears.
The set shown in this thread is really impressive. Arvin engineer's must've thought, "We can build a set that is as good or better than the big guys."
They also built that model for Sears. It must've been their TOTL model that year. Those used either a 21AP4 or a glass 21ZP4.

Thanks for that info.

Took the chassis to the car wash this evening. Now It's ready to be worked on.

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One of the first things I'd thought I'd do was to see how much of the HV cage needs to be trimmed back away from the CRT. I made a HV cage from some cardboard. I then marked where it should go on the chassis and the mounted the chassis. I notched the corner to match the curvature of the CRT.

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I then decided to give me about 1 inch clearance and cut the cardboard. It took me several tries to get the clearance I wanted.

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I then transferred the cutout to the HV cage. The notch should work out well.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2612a.jpg

A good thing was that the chassis mounting holes matched the cabinet! I bolted the chassis in place when doing the HV cage notch it gave me the chance to see how well the controls would fit the front of the cabinet. The pencil box controls lined up very nice to the pencil box and the 2 main controls were just a hair high. I put on the Contrast and Volume knobs and they looked good and you couldn't even see they were slightly high.

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So the only problem would be one extra control shaft in the pencil box.
I wonder how they made the "notch", penknife? Maybe the rodents did it.

So the only problem would be one extra control shaft in the pencil box.
I wonder how they made the "notch", penknife? Maybe the rodents did it.

Yeah, one extra control.

I was thinking they they used a dull spoon!

Looks like you are making good progress. Your cage mod will probably look worlds better than that nibble from the Iron Giant currently there.:D

I removed the Flyback, Yoke wiring, CRT wiring, and 2 terminal strips off the top side of the chassis so I could clean it better.

I did move the pencil box controls 1 hole over to the right and the "Tone" and "TV/Phono" switch was pushed behind the front panel. I just might make a bracket to mount it to and drill a hole in the bottom of the cabinet to access these controls. We'll see. That will happen a lot further down the road.

In the meantime I'm using a wire wheel/drill and Naval Jelly to get rid of all the rust spots.

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I cleaned up the rust the best I could. In a lot of places the chassis is pretty pitted. I'll probably paint the chassis like I usually do. But this time between the primer and color, I'll fill the pits. Stay tuned.

I also removed the tuner. This TV once had a UHF tuner but it is missing. I wasn't going to use one anyway. The VHF tuner has been removed at one time. More on that later.

Tomorrow I'll start cleaning up the chassis. I already masked off the tube sockets.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2655a.jpg

I cleaned up the rust the best I could. In a lot of places the chassis is pretty pitted. I'll probably paint the chassis like I usually do. But this time between the primer and color, I'll fill the pits. Stay tuned.

I also removed the tuner. This TV once had a UHF tuner but it is missing. I wasn't going to use one anyway. The VHF tuner has been removed at one time. More on that later.

Tomorrow I'll start cleaning up the chassis. I already masked off the tube sockets.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2655a.jpg
How good is the CRT?

How good is the CRT?

Both tested excellent.

I was thinking they they used a dull spoon!

Looks like a fine tooth saw cut. Possibly a jewelers saw that came down from the top corners in an attempt to meet in the middle. :D

It sounds strange that the HV cage had to be cutted while replacing the CRT. The metal cone of the 'old' CRT was supposed to be pretty far from any metal parts to prevent arcing. Is the glass CRT that much bigger than the metal/glass one?

Good luck in restoration of such a wonderful television!

It sounds strange that the HV cage had to be cutted while replacing the CRT. The metal cone of the 'old' CRT was supposed to be pretty far from any metal parts to prevent arcing. Is the glass CRT that much bigger than the metal/glass one?

Good luck in restoration of such a wonderful television!

I'm thinking now that it came from the factory that way. My Sams shows a top view of the chassis and sure enough there is that piece of plastic riveted to the HV cage. Of course the cover is off for the photo or there never was one.

I'll post a picture later.

Here's the picture: I suppose that this was because of the metal tube and a HV cover could still be used.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/Sams-188-4-Arvin-7218CB-pg3a.jpg

As my usual practice, I labeled all the components. I also ran to Mouser and picked up the parts that I needed like E-Caps and some resistors.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2657a.jpg

It sounds strange that the HV cage had to be cutted while replacing the CRT. The metal cone of the 'old' CRT was supposed to be pretty far from any metal parts to prevent arcing. Is the glass CRT that much bigger than the metal/glass one?

Good luck in restoration of such a wonderful television!

Most American CRTs where there were equivalent glass and metal types the bell of the glass tube was shifted back 1-3" compared to the metal.

The metal tube would place the screen right at the edge of the flare, but the glass would place the screen 1-3" out from that and leave a flat side around the screen where a mounting strap could be placed...

Despite many metal glass pairs having basically the same socket to screen dimension, the rear shifted bell meant a shorter neck and repositioning of the yoke...If you've ever converted an American metal CRT set to a glass CRT you probably will have had some fun mounting hardware modifications to do.

I re-stuffed the electrolytic caps in my usual way. This time I used all Nichicon 10K hour 105C caps.
C3 consisted of a 47uf 450V and a 4.7uf 450V caps. They were the same diameter and I used a pieces of heat shrink to connect them together instead of hot glue. I left a small gap between the two in case one vents. I used a large pin to poke several holes through the heat shrink tubing.

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Next was C4 which had 4 caps. I used a 68uf 450V, 2 27uf 450V, and a 100uf 160V.

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Then onto C1 which had 4 caps. I used 47uf 450V, 56uf 450V, 4.7ud 450V, and a 22uf 100V.

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C3 was only 1 cap and I used a 3300 35V cap.

Top view of C1.

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Top view of C2.

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Top view of C3.

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Top view of C4.

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All four ready to install into the chassis. Note that C4 has its can go all the way to the base of the cap. This is the only cap of the 4 that is not insulated from the chassis, hence no paper tube cover.

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Most American CRTs where there were equivalent glass and metal types the bell of the glass tube was shifted back 1-3" compared to the metal.

The metal tube would place the screen right at the edge of the flare, but the glass would place the screen 1-3" out from that and leave a flat side around the screen where a mounting strap could be placed...

Despite many metal glass pairs having basically the same socket to screen dimension, the rear shifted bell meant a shorter neck and repositioning of the yoke...If you've ever converted an American metal CRT set to a glass CRT you probably will have had some fun mounting hardware modifications to do.
I was surprised enough to pull the replacement all-glass picture tube out of a television, in order to compare it with the original metal-glass one:

https://d.radikal.ru/d05/1901/ad/08e163d0662e.jpg

I remember that I hadn't faced any difficulties with replacement a few years ago. I only had to rework the HV supply gear, and change the socket. The cone of the glass tube is just more plumpy but its height is the same, so it fits the original hardware pretty well:

https://d.radikal.ru/d32/1901/e3/7bd4251574f7.jpg

Maybe, the difference is in that my glass CRT is the official replacement for the metal-glass one. What was about American glass CRTs? Were some of them designed as the direct substitutes for obsolete metal tubes, or were they all just newer tubes which had to be used as replacements?

Crist Rigott, you're making good progress on the restoration! Hope to see a picture on the screen soon!

I was surprised enough to pull the replacement all-glass picture tube out of a television, in order to compare it with the original metal-glass one:

https://d.radikal.ru/d05/1901/ad/08e163d0662e.jpg

I remember that I hadn't faced any difficulties with the replacement a few years ago. I only had to rework the HV supply gear, and change the base. The cone of the glass tube is just more plumpy but its height is the same, so it fits the original hardware pretty well:

https://d.radikal.ru/d32/1901/e3/7bd4251574f7.jpg

Maybe, the difference is in that my glass CRT is the official replacement for the metal-glass one. What was about American glass CRTs? Were some of them designed as the direct substitutes for obsolete metal tubes, or were they all just newer tubes which had to be used as replacements?

Crist Rigott, you're making good progress on the restoration! Hope to see a picture on the screen soon!

Most compatible metal and glass types in the states were made concurrently or within a 1-3 years of each other... Some metal tubes were directly competing with glass all their lives.

Here in the US metal tubes were only popular in monochrome sets from around 1950 to around 1953.... color CRTs were in development during that time and the metal ones lent themselves best to installation of the shadow mask so when color was standardized in 1953 and into around 1956 (though some Motorola's stuck with metal into the early 60's) metal color tubes were made.

The metal tubes seem more prone to leak and fill with air... Even tubes with just a metal evacuation stem are more prone than ones with glass evacuation stems.

Electronic M, thanks for the information!

The metal tubes seem more prone to leak and fill with air
Yes, microcracks from the thermal expansion mismatch between metal and glass.

I installed the E-Caps today. Not much to look at in the pictures but I included them anyway. Then I started on the Vertical section. I'll post what I did tomorrow.

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It's been a couple of days. I had a few things around the house to get done and I also had to make another round of PC boards for my Network sales.

I finished the Vertical section this evening. The Vertical section contained a couplate or network! While I was going to make some more Network PC boards I drew up one for the Vertical Integrator network. It consisted of 3 resistors and 3 caps. Simple. I first checked the original and it has 3 resistors between leads 2 and 3 that should add up to 38.4K. These measured out to 48.1K. A 25% difference. This one has to go!

Some before and after pictures. If you look closely you can see the brown Network under the right hand side terminal strip.

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I've moved onto the main section of the chassis. I thought I'd start at the top left and work my way across to the lower right.

On the right side of the two terminal strips were 3 27K 2W resistors twisted in parallel. I have 3 27K 3W resistors ready to go back in. But thought I'd replaced the 3 with 1 9K 10W wire wound resistor. What do you think? Some before and after pics.

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Then on to another section. The lower capacitor is connected to the left hand terminal of the capacitor above it. When I installed its replacement, I jumpered the lower 2 terminals and installed the lower capacitor on its own terminal.

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I'd better install a single 10w resistor. BTW, why are you replacing all the resistors? Are they all out of tolerance?

I'd better install a single 10w resistor. BTW, why are you replacing all the resistors? Are they all out of tolerance?

Mostly. This chassis is proving out just like most of them. About 2/3 are clearly out of tolerance, 1/6 are just in tolerance, and the final 1/6 are within tolerance. So having 5/6 of the resistors out of or just with in tolerance, I change them all. The last thing I want to do is go back in and change a resistor that's causing problems in the future. Another thing, my 1W resistors cost a whooping 4 cents each from Mouser. Why take the chance with a 65 year old resistor?

About installing a 10W wire-wound for the group of three carbon, I would check the schematic to see how that resistor is used. The WW of course has a bit of inductance, so if it is used as a plate load in the video amp it could effect the flatness of the bandwidth. I've seen high wattage carbons used this way. Another place you don't want a WW is in the RF and IF circuits.

As seen from the layout, the resistors are connected in parallel with a paper capacitor of a pretty good value (.047uF), so they don't seem like a plate load; rather a sort of B+ divider, damper or bleeder.
You ought to check the schematic diagram to make it clear.

Mostly. This chassis is proving out just like most of them. About 2/3 are clearly out of tolerance, 1/6 are just in tolerance, and the final 1/6 are within tolerance. So having 5/6 of the resistors out of or just with in tolerance, I change them all. The last thing I want to do is go back in and change a resistor that's causing problems in the future. Another thing, my 1W resistors cost a whooping 4 cents each from Mouser. Why take the chance with a 65 year old resistor?
Some of those resistors look a little tired.
BTW, what procedure do you use to remove all the old leads and solder from the terminal strips? On occasion, I use a desoldering iron like used on PC boards.
As usual, amazing work!

Guys, here is the schematic of those 3 resistors. R131,R132, R133. Looks like I could use a wire wound resistor there...right?

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2713a.jpg

Some of those resistors look a little tired.
BTW, what procedure do you use to remove all the old leads and solder from the terminal strips? On occasion, I use a desoldering iron like used on PC boards.
As usual, amazing work!

I usually clip the component free leaving about 1/4 to 3/8 inch on the terminal strip. I then use solder wick to get as much solder off. Then I remove the old leads and again solder wick for final solder clean up. Then using a cut down acid brush, I brush with some acetone to clean off the old resin and make the terminal nice and clean. Then on to installing the new components.

Looks like I could use a wire wound resistor there
Yes you can use any type there; it's just a current limiter for the 2nd grid of the horizontal output tube (V23). It seems that three usual carbon resistors were simply cheaper than a single wirewound one.

I agree that a wire wound should be OK there. Seems odd the way they have the other side of C123 connected to the cathode instead of ground, as if there was some AC signal to be transferred from one to the other.

I installed the wire wound.

While I was on the same side as the Candohm, it was reworked with 3 25W chassis mounted resistors and I used some 2W resistors to "Trim" them to the correct values. All within 1.2 ohms or less than specified.

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I then continued working my way through the chassis. I reworked the interlock, V23 and surrounding area.

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Another section completed. This section had some repair work done to it before I got to it.

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Reworked V18 the Sync Amp and Syns Sep. This pretty much completes the Vertical section. Tomorrow I'll move downward through the chassis to the Horiz. section.

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Moving down to V21. The Horiz. AFC section. Next up V22 the Horiz. Osc.

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Finished V22 tube the H. Osc.

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If you look at the lower terminal on the terminal strip in the picture above you'll should see that I replaced the single conductor shielded wire. I used some 20awg wire I had from when I wired aircraft avionics. Good stuff. The reason I replaced it was the center insulator was breaking down and crumbling away, thus creating a possible short between it and the shield. The same thing with the Phono input wire. This will get replaced also.

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I completed tube V9, V10, and V11. Video Amp, Video Output, and Noise Inverter.

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V13 and V14. 1st and 2nd Sound IF done.

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V15, V16, and V17 are done. Ratio Detector, AF Amp, and Audio Output. I replaced all the single conductor shielded wire. Some minor stuff to do then onto the IF section, then onto the controls.

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Reworked V5, V6, V7, and V8. The 4 IF stages. This pretty much completes the bottom of the chassis. There are still a few odds and ends to deal with, but over all it is finished.

Next up will be the front panel controls.

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I was looking at the schematic and in a dotted square is M7. Looks like a coil, caps, and resistor. I'm guessing it is the video detector. What is the chances the diode is good/bad? Is there a modern day equivalent? There is a cover on the topside that comes off and there is the diode.

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It is a germanium diode for sure. Getting hard to find. 1N60 is similar as are a few others. 1N34 are more common, good for crystal radios and other uses, but I don't know well they would work here.

Some are fine some are not... I generally see if the set works before I consider changing it. It is above chassis so it should be easy to change post assembly.

It appears the choice of a particular germanium diode type will produce only a small difference in detector efficiency:
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/radio-news/crystal-diodes-modern-electronics-radio-television-news-february-1952.htm

(scroll down to figure 7)

This is an early type germanium diode. You can use a digital multimeter with a diode check function to test whether it is functional. A good germanium diode shows a forward voltage drop of about 150...400mV, and doesn't conduct at all in the reverse direction (infinity reading).

Even though there are some special "video detector diodes", I've never seen any difference replacing them with random germanium point contact types I had on hands; you shouldn't either. If the original diode tests bad, just replace it with any germanium point contact diode. I am not good in Western types of diodes, but I think 1N34, 1N60, NTE-109 and many others should be OK.

I've always found germanium diodes to show signifigant reverse leakage when checked with an ohmmeter (compared to a Si diode's zero reverse leakage). Yet the Ge diodes always worked normally in service.

I've always found germanium diodes to show signifigant reverse leakage when checked with an ohmmeter (compared to a Si diode's zero reverse leakage). Yet the Ge diodes always worked normally.

It may depend on what voltage your ohmmeter applies.

I've never tried it but what about a Schottky diode. They have a quite low forward bias voltage. Just a thought.

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I have some 1N60 and some 1N914. I'll try them once I get the set working.

I changed some resistors that were in some if the IF cans and in M7. Basically, they were 5% and each one was 10-11% out-of-tolerance.

Here is the schematic of the 2 IF cans that had resistors. L32 and L33. Both in the 1st IF stage. Each of these 2 cans had capacitors along with M7. And each can used different types of capacitors. I'll show some pics.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2823a-e1549253532706.jpg

Here is L32. The 22K resistor was 10% out-of-tolerance and was replaced with a 1W 22K 5% carbon film resistor. The caps were disc.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2803a.jpg

Here is L33. The 4.7K resistor was 11% out-of-tolerance and was replaced with a 1W 4.7K carbon film resistor. The 2 caps were a dual mica cap. This cap used mica film just like a trimmer cap. I tested the 100pf side and got 102pf. I couldn't test the 13pf side due to my checker doesn't go down that low.

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And finally M7. See schematic in a few previous posts. The 8.2K 5% resistor was 7% out-of-tolerance and was replaced with a 1W 8.2K carbon film resistor. Both Riders and Sams schematics showed M7 using a 10K resistor. I decided to use what was actually used. The caps in this unit were like "dogbone" type. Again all 3 cans used different types of caps.

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Working on getting the chassis all cleaned up. I scrubbed and wire brushed the chassis and then shot some primer over the pitted areas from the mouse pee. Once the primer was dry, I used some Bondo Glazing putty to fill in the pits. Tomorrow I'll sand the putty and then primer and paint the chassis.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2824a.jpg

The glazing putty has been sanded and now on to the primer.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2825a.jpg

While the paint on the chassis dries I turned my attention to the tuner.
I cleaned it up and used DeOxit on the wafer switches. I also replaced all if the resistors. There were 12 of them. 9 were clearly out-of-tolerance. Some as much as 47%, while 3 were in tolerance. They were replaced with 1W Carbon Film resistors.

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Other than it looks much better, why did you replace the insulated wires in the tuner?

Also, based on the time of your replies, when do you sleep?

Other than it looks much better, why did you replace the insulated wires in the tuner?

Also, based on the time of your replies, when do you sleep?

If you're talking about Christ he probably sleeps between 11 pm and 7AM based on post time stamps in his time zone.... if he is retired he doesn't have to optimize things for a work schedule.... nothing unusual the way I see it.

Very nice work (as usual). Some of those resistors in the tuner must have been a pig to get at.

No doubt he was super careful not to nudge or deform any of the coils.

Other than it looks much better, why did you replace the insulated wires in the tuner?

Also, based on the time of your replies, when do you sleep?

Tom,
They were replaced because some were cracking. So I replaced them all as a precaution.

Usually between midnight and 8am.

If you're talking about Christ he probably sleeps between 11 pm and 7AM based on post time stamps in his time zone.... if he is retired he doesn't have to optimize things for a work schedule.... nothing unusual the way I see it.

Correct! I am retired now 4 1/2 years.

Very nice work (as usual). Some of those resistors in the tuner must have been a pig to get at.

Thanks. Yes they were. But the paint had to dry on the chassis so it was a good long task that I could take my time.

No doubt he was super careful not to nudge or deform any of the coils.

Correct.

With the paint dry I could move on. Got a lot done today.

I finished the front panel controls. I decided that the "extra" Tone control and TV/Phono switch could be relocated in the extra hole when I moved everything to the left. Of course this control isn't accessible from the front pencil box, but that's ok. I'll use it to set the tone control on the bench. BTW, I eliminated the TV/Phono switching. Our TV never had it. I shortened the shaft so it would not hit on the front of the cabinet.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2869a.jpg

Then I had to shorten the Local/Distance switch mount. When I first tried the chassis in the cabinet, the switch was right up against the pencil box and needed to be moved a little further aft. I cut off the mounting ears and shortened the mount about 3/8". Then bent up some aluminum and bolted them together. Worked out real well. If it is too far aft, I can use some small spacers between the mount and the chassis.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2860a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2861a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2862a.jpg

I then moved on to mounting and wiring in the tuner and clearing off all the extra masking tape.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2866a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2867a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2868a.jpg

Today I cleaned and checked the tubes. There were 4 that were bad out of the 25 tubes. One just checked into the green. Those five will be replaced.

I then reinstalled the CRT wiring. I placed clear heat shrink tubing around each wire where it went through the chassis for protection.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2884a.jpg

I then redid the 2 terminal strips on the top of the chassis. One included the .25A fuse.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2883a.jpg

I then turned my attention to the Flyback and 1B3GT connector. I replaced the 3 220K 2W resistors with 3 220K 3W resistors. After looking over the Flyback a little closer, it looks like the mice tried to make a meal out of it! They also nibbled on the filament wiring to the 1B3GT connector.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2880a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2881a.jpg

I'm re-coating the Flyback windings with some Super Corona dope as I type. A few more coats and it will be ready to put back into the chassis.

While you're at it change the HV rect filament winding...That much chew is likely to arc through. Better to do that now while it is easy to get at.

Today I cleaned and checked the tubes. There were 4 that were bad out of the 25 tubes. One just checked into the green. Those five will be replaced.

I then reinstalled the CRT wiring. I placed clear heat shrink tubing around each wire where it went through the chassis for protection.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2884a.jpg

I then redid the 2 terminal strips on the top of the chassis. One included the .25A fuse.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2883a.jpg

I then turned my attention to the Flyback and 1B3GT connector. I replaced the 3 220K 2W resistors with 3 220K 3W resistors. After looking over the Flyback a little closer, it looks like the mice tried to make a meal out of it! They also nibbled on the filament wiring to the 1B3GT connector.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2880a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2881a.jpg

I'm re-coating the Flyback windings with some Super Corona dope as I type. A few more coats and it will be ready to put back into the chassis.

Did you verify that the flyback secondary (the 'tire') has continuity (just to be sure the rodent critter didn't nik the winding)?

Did you verify that the flyback secondary (the 'tire') has continuity (just to be sure the rodent critter didn't nik the winding)?

Yeah I did. It ohmed out pretty close to what was on the schematic.

Tom,
Good idea! I changed those wires too.

Before replacing the HV rect filament wire, make sure that it's made out of copper (not an ohmic wire).

...make sure that it made out of copper (not an ohmic wire).
Did anybody other than Zenith use that?

I don't know exactly about US-made sets but I met 'ohmic' HV heater windings in some early Russian televisions. Just a precaution to be sure that it's not your case.

I don't know exactly about US-made sets but I met 'ohmic' HV heater windings in some early Russian televisions. Just a precaution to be sure that it's not your case.

Mine uses wire. It does use a 3.9 ohm resistor. Which was replaced.

Today I tackled the HV cage mod. I cut away the corner and made a triangular filler piece. Then cleaned it up and painted it a silver color. I wanted it a bit different color than the chassis.

I then finished up wiring the HV cage. I replaced all the HV wire, except the HV lead to the CRT.

Then I could finish up wiring in the Yoke wires. All done except the 300 Ohm twin lead from the Tuner to the terminals. Then on to first power up.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2900a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2901a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2905a.jpg

The suspense is killing me.

Both tested excellent.

What make is the CRT? I thought I saw the GE logo. :scratch2:

What make is the CRT? I thought I saw the GE logo. :scratch2:

It's a GE.

I did a power up today. It went well with no smoke. HV is a 14.5KV. All of the controls seems to be working. Audio is good. Video not so good.

I'm getting a negative picture of low quality. I swapped out the video diode with a 1N60 and made no difference.

Any suggestions as where to look?. I haven't tried direct video injection yet. That's next.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2906a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2909a.jpg

Are you sure the diode isn't backwards?

Also check the integrity of the M7 coils, and ensure the connection of the cathode/grid of the picture tube is correct.

Guys, thanks for the suggestions.
The CRT showed weak when I tested it again. I put it on the Beltron and now shows very strong.
I powered up the set again and basically the same thing, but with a better picture. I tweaked the H. Drive and Lock controls but no difference. Then I tweaked the Bias control. Bingo!
I think I need to clean up and finish up the CRT and its mounts, then look at doing an alignment.
Though I'll double check the above suggestions first.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2910a.jpg

Nice!:banana: (obviously the det.diode is not backwards).

Great work! congratulations! :banana::banana::banana::banana:

I am wondering about this “bias” control... does it set cut off of the CRT? Where is it located in the circuit?

jr

Super! (Nice metalwork on the HV cage, too!)

Great work! congratulations! :banana::banana::banana::banana:

I am wondering about this “bias” control... does it set cut off of the CRT? Where is it located in the circuit?

jr

Here is a section of the schematic from Sams. It is R9. Below it are the Alignment instructions that talk about setting the Bias Control. Frankly, how or why its there is above my pay grade.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2914a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2915a.jpg

Nice!:banana: (obviously the det.diode is not backwards).

Thank you.

Super! (Nice metalwork on the HV cage, too!)

Thank you.

Isn't it a little odd that they recommend pulling the Horiz Multivibrator tube? Won't lack of horiz drive cause the Horiz Output to red plate?

I tackled the yoke and the centering/focus ring tonight. When I took the assembly apart, I found the centering adjustment real rusty.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2935a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2936a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2938a.jpg

I then grabbed the one that came in the cabinet and it was rust too but as much. I cleaned it up and reassembled it using some light grease.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2939a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2940a.jpg

Here is a section of the schematic from Sams. It is R9. Below it are the Alignment instructions that talk about setting the Bias Control. Frankly, how or why its there is above my pay grade.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2914a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2915a.jpg

It is probably an AGC level control. AGC is a feedback circuit that (if keyed) measures the sync pulse amplitude in the video stages (otherwise it just measures average video amplitude over roughly a frame) and varies the gain (via IF and or tuner grid bias) of the IF and or tuner to hold the video level constant...This compensates for differences in signal strength between stations and holds contrast constant in fading signal conditions (such as fringe or DX conditions).....Basically, it makes the contrast control a set and forget adjustment rather than a keep a hand on it at all times and throttle it adjustment.

I then cleaned the yoke and replaced the 3 resistors and 56pf ceramic cap.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2945a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2946a.jpg

Here is a section of the schematic from Sams. It is R9. Below it are the Alignment instructions that talk about setting the Bias Control. Frankly, how or why its there is above my pay grade.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2914a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2915a.jpg

Interesting, thanks for posting! I suspect that they are driving the first two stages of the if amp with a different level of agc (through the dc amplifier, v11) than the rf stage (direct from the local/distant switch) to optimize signal to noise ratio at a given total gain. This is just a WAG. :scratch2:

jr

Interesting, thanks for posting! I suspect that they are driving the first two stages of the if amp with a different level of agc (through the dc amplifier, v11) than the rf stage (direct from the local/distant switch) to optimize signal to noise ratio at a given total gain. This is just a WAG. :scratch2:

jr

I haven't traced it through, but if what you surmise is the case, it's quite normal for TV AGC design.

This is called tuner AGC "delay." This doesn't mean a time delay, but that the tuner runs at full gain for weak signals so that the noise figure is maximized [EDIT: I meant minimized, of course]. The tuner AGC gain reduction starts only when the IF AGC gain reduction has already had some effect. In the low signal range (I seem to recall, typically below 1 millivolt RF) the IF AGC is active by itself. Then, above that level, AGC gain reduction is also applied in the tuner.

An alternative, which was never used in TVs as far as I know, is to run both the tuner and IF at max gain for as large a range as possible and use a PIN diode attenuator at the input to adjust signal level.

TVs actually get pretty poor noise figures when the signal is strong and tuner AGC is active, but as long as the video signal-to-noise ratio is great enough to make the noise invisible, it's OK.

The alignment is done.

Here is what the IF curve should look like.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2969a.jpg

Here is what the initial curve looked like. Notice that the curve looks good but it is "off" frequency.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2955a.jpg

Here are the individual points after alignment. Not perfect but pretty close.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2956a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2957a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2958a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2959a.jpg

Then some pics from this morning.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2963a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_2968a.jpg

Great!

Good job!

What about the equipment you use for alignment? How do you insert the test signal, and couple the detector probe?

It looks better than new! Really great job!!!

Good job!

What about the equipment you use for alignment? How do you insert the test signal, and couple the detector probe?

I use an EICO 369 Sweep generator, a BK 200D Signal generator, a Knight KG-625 VTVM, and a BK 2150 scope.

The EICO 369 probe have the Detector in it. I use the probes called out in the EICO manual.

Great!

Thanks.

It looks better than new! Really great job!!!

Thank you.

That chassis looks too nice to hide it away in the cabinet :-)

Nicest resto I've seen.

It looks better than new! Really great job!!!

It is better than new!
The component quality of today, it'll last a good long time
Everyone I knew, used to say I had a lot of patience, but nothing like yours. It's a work of art!
As said before, who would think a small player like Arvin could build a set of that caliber. Half of Arvin's production was in metal fabrication. They made the best portable electric heaters.
I understand, they're still in business making car parts and mufflers, Arvin Meritor.

It is better than new! The component quality of today...

That's true, but the sad thing is that there's almost nothing original left under the chassis... On the other hand, there's no choice, you have to do something with all that leaky capacitors and drifted resistors. BTW, are the original-looking Allen-Bradley resistors hard to find in usable quantities? As I guess, they remained in production until recently (up to the 80s or so)

That's true, but the sad thing is that there's almost nothing original left under the chassis... On the other hand, there's no choice, you have to do something with all that leaky capacitors and drifted resistors. BTW, are the original-looking Allen-Bradley resistors hard to find in usable quantities? As I guess, they remained in production until recently (up to the 80s or so)
I lived in Milwaukee, Wisconsin for 46 years, about a quarter mile from the large Allen-Bradley plant!
If the breeze was right, I could smell the resistor department aroma. They moved the resistor and small potentiometer department to Mexico sometime in the 70's or 80's.
Centralab did the same. :sigh:

I've been able to find small stashes of 40's-60's carbon comp resistors...Even NOS they are drifty and moisture sensitive...I have to make sure they are in tolerance before using the NOS examples.

The classic ohmite Brown Devils are still in production (though they are being phased out gradually) and new ones look original...
They more modern styles are made in more original shades of brown and I eventually plan to make up a kit of those.

The classic ohmite Brown Devils are still in production and new ones look original...
They more modern styles are made in more original shades of brown and I eventually plan to make up a kit of those

That's a good idea, the newer resistors suppose to be much more stable and reliable while looking original.

Since I'm crazy on saving the initial under-chassis appearance, a set of the full E24 row of antique resistors has been my desire for a long time. I used every chance to get any quantity of the resistors, filling a special box little by little with them. When I collected a good amount of the resistors, I sorted them in the row and made a storage box to keep them in order:

http://d.radikal.ru/d18/1902/b1/2401238957e1.jpg

http://c.radikal.ru/c34/1902/c0/2b9135dc2097.jpg

Since we're lucky here in Russia to have carbon film types ('the green rods') since the 1940s and they are not very fail-prone, such a good source of the proper resistors promises me years of happy restoration life :)

OK, been away for a couple of weeks. Back on the project.
I added some 300 ohm twinax, cleaned up the tube shields, installed the control cover, added the cans and paper tubes to the E-Caps, and the CRT mount bracket. That should just about do it for the chassis. On to the CRT and cabinet.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3053a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3054a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3055a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3056a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3057a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3058a.jpg

Just beautiful.

Cleaned up the CRT and then moved on to the cabinet.

The cabinet top and sides were made from fiberboard and then covered with a faux Mahogany finish. There must have been something heavy placed on top of this TV which remained for decades. The top was dished in quite a bit. The sides were affected too.

So I decided to redo the top and sides with 1/4 birch ply and new veneer. I've have pretty much finished the new plywood and need to do some detail on the existing mahogany trim. Then on to the veneer.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3149a.jpg

I don't even think that chassis looked as good back when it was built as it does now.

Thanks timmy!

Today I applied the new Ribbon Sapele Mahogany veneer to the cabinet. The veneer is the paperback variety and I used the iron on method to attach. All went well. Tomorrow I'll do the black grain filler.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3174a.jpg

Grain filled and stained.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3176a.jpg

I stained the inside and applied some Medium Red Mahogany to the cabinet. On to the seal coats.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content/uploads/100_3180a.jpg

That's going to be the nicest Arvin on the planet!