So, I sat down Saturday morning with a cup of coffee, beginning some much needed time off by looking through ebay, and I spotted this Quasar VR1000, an RCA VBT200 VCR, and an RCA SFT100 CED player all from the same seller in Southern IL with only an hour or so left on each. The price stayed low because it was pick up only, so I got them and decided I would drive down there yesterday and pick them up.

They came from a small TV shop that now only sells appliances, but still had a lot of TV stuff in the back (an apparently some stored in a warehouse somewhere). The only old TV there was a kind of beat up 1980s RCA color portable that I decided to pass on. But I told him if he dug up any more old sets, or decided to sell some of the old test equipment in the back, to let me know.

The guy I met was the son of the original owner, but he worked there back when they were selling these units. He said that RCA made them buy a minimum of 12 CED players if they wanted to sell any, and that he didn't think they sold them all, that this one was likely never sold. But that the VCRs were likely trade-ins, that customers gave them back to the store and bought new units, rather than paying for repairs.

Of the two VX tapes I got, the tape in the blue case (the 100 minute one), is visibly moldy, but the red (120 minute) one might be ok. If anyone knows where I can get some more VX tapes, let me know. I also picked up a few CEDs. I haven't tested any of these units out yet, although I'm assuming they'll need new belts. The picture of the Quasar sitting next to the VBT200 really shows how much larger it is.

Sweet finds! I wonder if there is a good way to clean that moldy tape?

Of course you know, now that you have a (Quasar great) TimeMachine you gotta go back in time and bring back 3 dozen rebuilt/NOS 15GP22s from the early 60's. :D

I've always been into odd obsolete recording formats myself. Just this weekend I found a white wale of mine: a Playtape 2 track music cartridge player (the tapes are cassette sized 8-track like cartridges). I never thought to look on ebay for one (and often forgot the format existed), and happened to stumble on it locally...Haven't seen one in person since I was ~5-8 years old and that one was the only other one I ever saw in person...Now I just need tapes (and maybe belts)!

Nice finds!

Yes, neat finds! Ive never even heard of VX tapes or 2 tracks and Im older than many here.

I've always been into odd obsolete recording formats myself. Just this weekend I found a white wale of mine: a Playtape 2 track music cartridge player (the tapes are cassette sized 8-track like cartridges). I never thought to look on ebay for one (and often forgot the format existed), and happened to stumble on it locally...Haven't seen one in person since I was ~5-8 years old and that one was the only other one I ever saw in person...Now I just need tapes (and maybe belts)!

Mat from TechMoan did a nice piece (http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2016/1/13/heres-something-old-the-playtape.html) on this format. You might find some pointers for tapes there.

I still haven't seen a properly restored VR-1000. Every YouTube demonstration shows it spitting out bursts of static and distorted colors, like the drum isn't spinning as freely as it should. Very bothersome.

Adam,

I think you actually outbid me on the RCA VHS and Quasar Great Time Machine, believe it or not I was willing to drive from NC to Illinois to pick them up. Quasar VX'es are really that rare on Ebay that they are nearly impossible to find, and even worth the drive, I've only seen 2 on Ebay in the last year, which by those numbers makes them exactly as rare as Cartrivision machines believe it or not.

As for Quasar tapes, there are 2 or 3 sellers on Ebay that put up auctions for them, and they constantly get relisted because they never sell (probably because they want upwards of $15 a piece for them, its such a small niche format that I doubt many would pony up that price.

As an aside, the only other time I've head of people discussing the Quasar VX format was on a tape trading board 15 years ago, they actually found a master recording of the 1978 Oakland-San Diego NFL game (infamous Holy Roller game) and he bought the player for the sole reason of converting it to DVD format. He ended up throwing out the player because no one wanted it, no joke!

I had one of those decks back in the 80s. Loved the removable video head it had. Made cleaning a breeze.. May still have parts of it lying around here.. :)

SR

Interesting ... I always thought the Cartrivisions were way rarer.

I'm trying to fix the VBT200 first. I finally ordered that tape sensor lamp it needs yesterday, I'll make some progress with it once it gets here.

I was really just hoping I wouldn't win the RCA VBT200 VCR and SFT100 CED player and not the Quasar! I already have a working example of each, and while did want them if I was going to make the drive out there for the Quasar anyway, I really didn't want to have to make that long drive for just those.

Hello Adam! I'm Dan, the seller of those pieces. I joined this forum not long ago. Still digging through tons of stuff in my spare time. I list an item from time to time on Antique Radio Forum; don't think I've been on this site long enough to try.
Just wanted to reach out from Southern Illinois!

Hello Adam! I'm Dan, the seller of those pieces. I joined this forum not long ago. Still digging through tons of stuff in my spare time. I list an item from time to time on Antique Radio Forum; don't think I've been on this site long enough to try.
Just wanted to reach out from Southern Illinois!

May be worth posting here too...I have an ARF account but almost never log on there and there are others that don't visit ARF either.

Hi Dan! I've been busy lately, haven't had too much time to work on stuff. I repaired all the mechanical issues with the RCA VBT200 I got from you, but there is still some problem with the color when playing a tape I haven't figured out yet. The CED player needs a stylus. And the Quasar I haven't even looked at yet.

Adam,

As for CED players, the stylus should be easy to replace by buying one on Ebay, also there is a guy that re-conditions old styluses, I forget the name of his website, but there should be a link to it on the main CED collectors page.

The RCA VBT200 color issue could be in relation to color sync if you are hooking the VCR up to a newer HDTV, I've seen similar issues on people demo-ing older VHS decks on HDTVs.

Let us know when you start working on the Quasar, I still have a lead on one on Ebay that I may buy, it would be interesting to get some insight on fixing them as it seems that all belt issues at this point.

Nice to see a thread about the VR-1000. My father bought one new in the 1970s, plus the timer. Guess he thought it would catch on, but VHS had other plans. He has about 35 tapes, unfortuantely many got moldy in a basement flood in the late 90s. We still have the tapes but no way of knowing how to get them unstuck (tape baking?). I think his most memorable tape is Superbowl XX (the classic '85 bears). Though the timer broke way before my time, I was able to find one new in box on ebay a few years ago and now use it as a clock on my shelf. its got that classic aluminum face finish.

He kept the machine all these years, even though at some point in the 90s it stopped playing tapes. I've on-and-off worked on it the past 7 years trying out my knowledge at figuring out what the issue is. I did find a crack in the PCB that was causing the drive motor to not function which was a major breakthrough for me. (I posted this on audiokarma in 2015, which was the last time i I had a chance to work on it)

Dont mean to hijack this thread however this is so close to the top of list i figure there's no point in having TWO Time Machine threads up. This week I took it out again, looking back at the schematic/SM to go point by point. Right now my issue is the SOLENOIDS are not activating. I dont know if its a transistor fault, or a 12V fault (one of the legs on the transistor does not read 12V when it should), or a leaky cap, or what. Only 1 main solenoid is working (there's about 6)

I picked one to start with - I believe the brake solenoid should be ON during playback (pulls away brake pad from roller when solenoid is activated)

So Looking at the moment at TR924. (S is standby, P is play mode, R is Rec mode * is RWD/FFD). in P, i get 0V from C leg. E and B read fine. I took the transistor out and tested it and it "seems" ok.
on the schematic, i am getting 23V from pin H10-3 to the Solenoid.
If the C leg is not getting the 12v how far back in the line do i need to go?

I'm amazed you had enough blank tapes to make recordings on that thing way into the mid 80s (Super Bowl XX being January 1986), from what I've heard the product was discontinued by 1979 or 1980, and I assume blank tapes and other accessories would have been gone from retail shelves by 1981.

Replacement parts will be hard to find I'd assume, I check regularly and there are usually only 1 or 2 Quasar VR-1000s up on Ebay at one time, if at all, and those are usually the same ones that were relisted 5-10x because the seller wants $400 for it.

As for tape mold, I've cleaned VHS tapes by some of the methods used on Youtube, aka running the tape in FF and take the top off the player and lightly press down on the reels with a Q tip dabbed in rubbing alcohol. It usually takes 2 or 3 passes and the tape is clean. However, some tapes are so mold laden that the reels won't move and will just snap off.

I'm amazed you had enough blank tapes to make recordings on that thing way into the mid 80s (Super Bowl XX being January 1986), from what I've heard the product was discontinued by 1979 or 1980, and I assume blank tapes and other accessories would have been gone from retail shelves by 1981.

Replacement parts will be hard to find I'd assume, I check regularly and there are usually only 1 or 2 Quasar VR-1000s up on Ebay at one time, if at all, and those are usually the same ones that were relisted 5-10x because the seller wants $400 for it.

As for tape mold, I've cleaned VHS tapes by some of the methods used on Youtube, aka running the tape in FF and take the top off the player and lightly press down on the reels with a Q tip dabbed in rubbing alcohol. It usually takes 2 or 3 passes and the tape is clean. However, some tapes are so mold laden that the reels won't move and will just snap off.

My dad has a tendency re-record over previous tapes, and I think the Superbowl tape was one he has bought years before and re-used. I'm willing to bet most tapes with 80s content were ones he bought originally in the 70s- alot of blue V100 and orange boxes V120 (strangely never a single V60 black box tape) And a fun fact, I came across his receipts for the machine that he kept in his records, I cant remember exactly but i think a blank tape then cost about $50..in 1970s dollars. pretty crazy.

Funny you mention that, there is a BRAND NEW Vr-1000 on ebay right now for over $700 bucks. Pretty neat however I would never pay that much to relive some of my dad's tape memories haha. As for the old tapes, if i need FFD to do it, this machine will not fast forward atm, (or rewind, or do anything other than play at normal speed). I have taken apart a tape once and done the tedious task of manually spooling the tape from one side to the other to loosen up a section of tape (gave up after 10 minutes, too much tape)

However some good news, my new caps and transistors arrived from digi-key last night, going to give it a shot, I think ultimately my issue that the solenoids are not engaging across any level, which is ever a 12v line issue or a component along the way is faulty. Time will tell.

Some GREAT updates. After poking around with the transistors and finding a few ones that were failed, I'm now happy to say the solenoids are working as normal and I was able to play a tape for the first time in almost 30 years! if my dad were still around i'm sure he'd be happy.
However I still cant rewind or ffd with a tape in, i think the motor cant get enough strengh to move the tape (or the belts are just too old)
There's some weird rainbow banding going on in color mode, not sure what's going on there, I don't have a scope yet but i've considered it as long as it doesnt break my bank. Any initial thoughts of where to start?

Is the capstan/head drum direct or belt drive, and is the pinch roller in good shape or slick and glazed/cracked? If the rubber is bad it might be moving to too slow for the color subcarrier to be on frequency....I've seen this in early CED players with bad platter drive belts.

There may be brakes on the tape drive pegs or in the tape preventing rewind.

One dirty trick for getting a bit more life out of your belts is to work them with CRC automotive belt dressing...It won't.work forever but if it helps you know to source new belts.

Is the capstan/head drum direct or belt drive, and is the pinch roller in good shape or slick and glazed/cracked? If the rubber is bad it might be moving to too slow for the color subcarrier to be on frequency....I've seen this in early CED players with bad platter drive belts.

There may be brakes on the tape drive pegs or in the tape preventing rewind.

One dirty trick for getting a bit more life out of your belts is to work them with CRC automotive belt dressing...It won't.work forever but if it helps you know to source new belts.
I've used it on idler wheels at times. :thmbsp:

Is the capstan/head drum direct or belt drive, and is the pinch roller in good shape or slick and glazed/cracked? If the rubber is bad it might be moving to too slow for the color subcarrier to be on frequency....I've seen this in early CED players with bad platter drive belts.

There may be brakes on the tape drive pegs or in the tape preventing rewind.

One dirty trick for getting a bit more life out of your belts is to work them with CRC automotive belt dressing...It won't.work forever but if it helps you know to source new belts.

Both motors are belt drive, the larger drive motor in the back for the video head and the 7V in front for the tape turning. Will get you some pics later after work. Here's an older one for now. Pinch roller is mostly okay, has some dirt on it that im not sure how to clean without ruining the rubber, its still pretty flat with some grip.

The issue I was having was the the individual solenoids (rewind brake, pinch brake, take up reel brake etc) were not activating but they all should be now. I'll have to examine the schematic and check the transistors and components on the rwd/ff area.

I'll look into that belt dressing. I know the tape counter belt is cracking (not a big deal just the TC) I just have to figure out the best way to measure these belts.

You should be able to cl an the capstan with rubbing alcohol, if that don't work goofoff will clean it...it can also dissolve the outer layer of the pinch roller and some plastics...I use goofoff when the outer layer of rubber is either extremely dirty or dried and glazed...it will remove the glazed layer and get back to good rubber (I usually follow up with belt dressing on glazed idlers and pinch rollers).

If a belt has dissolved into black gunk from age (a LOT of 8-track decks have this happen) before installing a replacement alcohol and if needed goofoff are good for cleaning the gunk off.

A little update. I've gotten the rest of my dad's tapes out of storage, about 20 in total. Unfortunately most of the never recovered from a basement flood in the early 2000s, mold has stayed on the box covers and gotten into the casing of the tapes. Some are still relatively intact.
All tapes play the AUDIO just fine, but the picture is all static. This is happening on 90% of his tapes. On a tape I bought off ebay, that picture plays better but still a bit fuzzy, so I'm wondering what happened to his tapes, did the video portion of the magnetic tape get nuked somehow?

-RWD and FF still do not work, but I have new belts coming in tomorrow to see if that makes any difference.

-When I switch to color mode, I get rainbow banding, which makes me think it's a board issue and not a tape issue. I'm not really sure where to start here, I tested a few transistors and they checked out okay.

https://www.mediafire.com/view/r8i7cx838k8jf94/quasar-colorEV.png/file

Those horizontal bands of noise seem to indicate that the tape or head is running the wrong speed, so the heads are skipping across tracks - the color board may be fine. I think you should get it tracking properly first, and then see if you still have color issues.

Those horizontal bands of noise seem to indicate that the tape or head is running the wrong speed, so the heads are skipping across tracks - the color board may be fine. I think you should get it tracking properly first, and then see if you still have color issues.

+1

Also video heads clog with dirt substantially easier than linear audio so you really want to clean those moldy tapes before you run them over the video heads...

I had one given to me a few years ago, it was in great shape and even worked to a degree, the issue was the tape, I had a couple tapes and they would play for a short while then clog the head, coupled with the fact the machine would not rewind due to bad rubber parts and I got frustrated and gave up, donated it to a Thrift Store so it could find a new home.

I have video I was able to transfer from the tape that came with it of some 1970's TV shows and commercials, it looked pretty decent when it wasn't dropping out, VHS quality at least.

I had one given to me a few years ago, it was in great shape and even worked to a degree, the issue was the tape, I had a couple tapes and they would play for a short while then clog the head, coupled with the fact the machine would not rewind due to bad rubber parts and I got frustrated and gave up, donated it to a Thrift Store so it could find a new home.

I have video I was able to transfer from the tape that came with it of some 1970's TV shows and commercials, it looked pretty decent when it wasn't dropping out, VHS quality at least.

Eric, could you go into a little more detail about the rubber parts? Mine is also having an issue rewinding, just wondering how far into it you investigated before giving up

just wondering how far into it you investigated before giving up

Not far at all, I just assumed it was dried up rubber keeping it from rewinding, probably had dried up grease as well, it looked like a project to take it apart, and with the tape issues, and the space it took up, I just didn't want to mess with it.

VHS can at least be rewound on a rewinder, the way these tapes are made it's impossible to rewind one without an operable machine.

Ah ok, thanks Eric. It got me thinking though. Made two very important discoveries last night
First, is that there's only ONE roller that pretty much works the RR/FF mechanism. I popped off the C-clip and took a look, sure enough it was pretty stiff and dry...not good. Also why does it have foam in the center?
so I popped off the ring, and flipped it inside out. the inside edge is a little softer and matte, so its better than nothing. Looks like I need a new idler tire...

Second...the way the spools sit in the VX cartridge are right on top of each other, they basically scrape along during play back = high friction.So I rubbed a bit of lubrication across the tops of the spools where they touch each other, and suddently, BOOM, FFD and RWD work much much better now. Leave it to Panasonic to design a cassette that if dried out, doesnt work well at all.

So now my next steps is to open every tape and rub some lubrication across it. and THEN...try to fix the color board. I bought a cheap NTSC signal generator on ebay. But I suppose it wont be much help without a scope..

The felt may be for a braking or to maintain tape tension.

You may be able to restore grip to the roller by cleaning the hard outer film off with goofoff and then following up with automotive belt treatment.

If you can find a belt or washer that meets it's dimensions that should work. Another option might be to make a mold of it and cast a new one out of silicone.

Contacted Electronic supply corp for some new belts. Somehow they found the original belt #s but no crossref, so I sent my belts (and idler tire) off to them so the unit will be sitting for a week or two in the meantime.

https://www.ued.net/ued/searchResults.do?searchStr=VR1000PW&mfgCode=MSC&searchType=model&listParts=Y

Also have an NTSC signal generator coming in so I can work on getting the colors and imputs corrected since right now the unit does not show any color during playback of videos, nor does it show any video display when switched into MONITOR mode.

Another update. the NTSC generator arrived this weekend. plugged it into the monitor input and oh boy, the colors are pretty bad. Looks like I have a lot of adjusting to do. Any advice?

Can your generator be set to a plain red field (or other single color?) Try that and see what you get.

Can your generator be set to a plain red field (or other single color?) Try that and see what you get.

Unfortunately no, I have a raster option but that just outputs a black screen.
The other settings are dots, crossgrid, and NTSC bars color and non-color.

Unfortunately no, I have a raster option but that just outputs a black screen.
The other settings are dots, crossgrid, and NTSC bars color and non-color.

Got a DVD player with composite and a DVD with an all red screen in it that you can pause on (a season appropriate horror flick might have an all red screen)?

Can you put in some regular video and see if you're getting rainbows from left to right? It's hard to tell on those bars, but the chroma frequency may be off. This seems very peculiar though, as I thought the monitor input on most VCR's just went directly to the RF modulator without being processed by the VCR color circuits. So, first you need to figure out exactly what is happening to the signal so you can figure out how to fix it.

Can you put in some regular video and see if you're getting rainbows from left to right? It's hard to tell on those bars, but the chroma frequency may be off. This seems very peculiar though, as I thought the monitor input on most VCR's just went directly to the RF modulator without being processed by the VCR color circuits. So, first you need to figure out exactly what is happening to the signal so you can figure out how to fix it.

On this VTR there is a switch for BW or Color. On playback mode you can switch between the two and if your tape was in color you'd get color picture, otherwise you can watch it in BW. When i switch to color mode on a tape i KNOW should be in color, I also get ranbow banding like this (see image)

This VTR has twin leads for UHF and VHF in, then RCA video.audio outs as well as coax VHF output. The generator is running thu twin lead VHF in, then I have the RCA video out going to the in on my tv.(right side of the previous image). In the schematic, most of the adjustment pots for a Scope are controlled though the VTR in monitor mode with a NTSC picture pattern.

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199351&d=1569336121

OK! Since the instructions say to use an NTSC input and set the VCR to monitor mode, it must actually be doing color processing in that mode.

So, it does appear that the color frwquency is off, and by multiples of horizontal rate. That is a long way to be off, but the circuit may need that range to sync properly to tape playback.

If you want to try a short-cut (no guarantees), I would say try C525, 3.58 MHz oscillator frequency. Try to keep track of how much you turn it so you can turn it back if it doesn't work.

If C525 has NO efffect in monitor mode, it may mean that going to monitor mode was only meant to make the oscillator free-run, and there actually is no color processing in monitor mode. In that case, you really do need a frequency counter.

OK! Since the instructions say to use an NTSC input and set the VCR to monitor mode, it must actually be doing color processing in that mode.

So, it does appear that the color frwquency is off, and by multiples of horizontal rate. That is a long way to be off, but the circuit may need that range to sync properly to tape playback.

If you want to try a short-cut (no guarantees), I would say try C525, 3.58 MHz oscillator frequency. Try to keep track of how much you turn it so you can turn it back if it doesn't work.

Thanks I will take a look tonight after work. BTW on the schematic, it says "frequency counter with 1 second gate interval" do you know what this is/how i could use one for this? A quick search on ebay shows many cheap digital freq. counters, but i'm not sure how to use that here.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Digital-LED-1Hz-50MHz-Crystal-Oscillator-Frequency-Counter-Meter-Tester-Kit/163332529194?epid=509681213&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2607609c2a:g:8SAAAOSwo3Bb0C~U&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qV95OxzPKGTxbXP Ay1OLOaT6P2Mak3O6mtXCEzQ3JcLcB0ijpriAij0ussQZvCKJn a1hEAMz2LJE5cWO7Xv9sqrEF%2BL7ppqhoW6HcumyCAMA3hhwD %2BBiB83YauD9nbzuw03Ywl%2B1aLlrvoBg3hUlwPOxepPHkH% 2BsbyMOhpEQuDHCnbSCCrrSgayebwOXqqL9haaEJTbYJpIZAvi pbBYvK8GJkWrUjPqr4utyGejfw6zNoy%2F%2FLanuMbM5wms8g k3CkZwJYlEWVdeRkV2Ey9hdl%2BWPubYMGMka%2Brorjk4ailG iVZYDKqepm86B5S645Ly25fbxNtiL4OJfe2BNLPxI2A%2FCoXr weUKDv5WDMJu%2BCc2rIAdlGfsVg%2FETxsdmCz5HIOLh%2BKv 3fCGsM5IfVeFCO%2BS5XRWltLgloEWHTIl6nfg0wM%2BtfpDY2 5f8d%2FtLWUBNcjfuBoTT%2BzPUjuyuuwh5e713zxO4p%2B0Ef K7%2FjbN1nvqpxFQDvK4hd2ZMfGbUFctVVZlM%2BGLwZAdUY0I 2teRTAN068SFXItlzs0ckgEl2Mpqd7%2FmMiKHQ%2FBmHFCOQs MBp7qFMaPnKuChJ4AUpJwJWFLe1HlWqKhTnuAaFfPY9qtVy99U lm6SVZN%2FJrFlQp2M28otL4kvOkPgREiiEZvhT5loYI%2BUAk iOc%2Fhfw1i8YilkfxLcod1byv%2BKjEIcfGW58Y6b%2BYMtsN YHsXbKOXsHtm6rr010mLJ5l8RYdi3xsbjN1Q%3D%3D&checksum=163332529194e5214b8ddc094958a2229348d37cc cd5&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qV95OxzPKGTxbXP Ay1OLOaT6P2Mak3O6mtXCEzQ3JcLcB0ijpriAij0ussQZvCKJn a1hEAMz2LJE5cWO7Xv9sqrEF%2BL7ppqhoW6HcumyCAMA3hhwD %2BBiB83YauD9nbzuw03Ywl%2B1aLlrvoBg3hUlwPOxepPHkH% 2BsbyMOhpEQuDHCnbSCCrrSgayebwOXqqL9haaEJTbYJpIZAvi pbBYvK8GJkWrUjPqr4utyGejfw6zNoy%2F%2FLanuMbM5wms8g k3CkZwJYlEWVdeRkV2Ey9hdl%2BWPubYMGMka%2Brorjk4ailG iVZYDKqepm86B5S645Ly25fbxNtiL4OJfe2BNLPxI2A%2FCoXr weUKDv5WDMJu%2BCc2rIAdlGfsVg%2FETxsdmCz5HIOLh%2BKv 3fCGsM5IfVeFCO%2BS5XRWltLgloEWHTIl6nfg0wM%2BtfpDY2 5f8d%2FtLWUBNcjfuBoTT%2BzPUjuyuuwh5e713zxO4p%2B0Ef K7%2FjbN1nvqpxFQDvK4hd2ZMfGbUFctVVZlM%2BGLwZAdUY0I 2teRTAN068SFXItlzs0ckgEl2Mpqd7%2FmMiKHQ%2FBmHFCOQs MBp7qFMaPnKuChJ4AUpJwJWFLe1HlWqKhTnuAaFfPY9qtVy99U lm6SVZN%2FJrFlQp2M28otL4kvOkPgREiiEZvhT5loYI%2BUAk iOc%2Fhfw1i8YilkfxLcod1byv%2BKjEIcfGW58Y6b%2BYMtsN YHsXbKOXsHtm6rr010mLJ5l8RYdi3xsbjN1Q%3D%3D&checksum=163332529194e5214b8ddc094958a2229348d37cc cd5
I'm also attaching another sheet from the schematic, this time the Color RECORD scope measurements, again all through Monitor mode but these may effect something as well. I dont have a scope currently as I've been debating if spending $100+ on a one time use for this one project makes sense.

You need a counter that can measure down to 1 Hz resolution like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-1-1100MHz-1-1GHz-Frequency-Counter-Tester-Measurement-F-Ham-Radio-PLJ-1601-C-/121840965555

You need a counter that can measure down to 1 Hz resolution like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-1-1100MHz-1-1GHz-Frequency-Counter-Tester-Measurement-F-Ham-Radio-PLJ-1601-C-/121840965555

Thank you for that link. But how do I use that? What are the connection points? Sorry for dumb questions.

And you were right, adjusting C525 does nothing, so I will have to get a frequency counter

Thank you for that link. But how do I use that? What are the connection points? Sorry for dumb questions.

And you were right, adjusting C525 does nothing, so I will have to get a frequency counter

The connection point on the counter is labeled "RF input" in the photos on ebay.
The connection points on the VCR are listed in the "Connection" column on the sheet you posted. For example, to set the 3.58 Mhz oscillator frequency, you would connect the RF input of the counter to TP503.

The connection point on the counter is labeled "RF input" in the photos on ebay.
The connection points on the VCR are listed in the "Connection" column on the sheet you posted. For example, to set the 3.58 Mhz oscillator frequency, you would connect the RF input of the counter to TP503.

The connector on that chip looks like this:. How do I get that to connect to my board?
https://uge-one.com/image/cache/data/New%20Items/XH2.54-2P%20Cable2-550x550w.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/4SUAAOSw5IJWb8Qk/s-l500.jpg

You may have to get some clips like this:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/pomona-electronics/3781-8-2/501-1417-ND/736632&?gclid=CjwKCAjwxOvsBRAjEiwAuY7L8iOg6jRtDRGtFaako7I 7kaUX2cVj06SR4yB4qwYBT5dy6zNnRGpuFxoCq2MQAvD_BwE
or this:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/pomona-electronics/4176-02/501-1332-ND/736754&?gclid=CjwKCAjwxOvsBRAjEiwAuY7L8u8Xm3pAUjWLND7YM1v vr58xn5_hbiz-hWxPs7hW8Ec-Qnt6NaYt8hoC6lcQAvD_BwE

I bought an oscilloscope the other day from CL. Been trying to check the different pot adjustments on the boards, to minor success. Cant seem to get the NTSC signal showing like it should.

BUT I did get the RF cover off over the 3.57mhz crystal. I have a feeling it mightve gone bad. Going to get a new one soon, looks like the old one is in a HC6 style case

I think you're just not focused in on the right spot in the waveform. If that scope has delayed sweep, I'd try that. It combines the two time bases: you set the one to focus in on a small portion of the waveform you're looking at, then the other is used to add the delay time, which lets you scroll up and down the waveform looking for the bit you want.

Anyway, I'm enjoying reading this thread, it'll be useful to me when I finally get to working on my VR-1000.

The waveform you are getting looks like very distorted NTSC color bars to me (maybe clipped and inverted). Are you using NTSC color bars?

If so, maybe your fine tuning is off or you are actually tuned to the wrong channel. There is no color subcarrier showing, which could be caused by this.

The scope vertical setting specified is curiously low, as .02 V/div would indicate about a 0.1 v p-p video signal is expected at TP A7. This may be correct (I don't know), but many video circuits use a video level around 1 V p-p.

Adam I think when I finally get this thing fixed I'll make a new thread with a step by step.

Also to both of you, as you can see the paper says horiz 10us div and vert .02v however it does not seem to show a useful waveform. I am also VERY new to scope and still do not fully understand how it works, so bear with me haha.

As we know already the color is pretty shot on this unit, and I might be better waiting until the new crystal arrives. If you look at this picture, when i turn AFT off, the color bars coming into the VTR are way off. which may be affecting the signal. See attached image. (The color bars from a few posts back was posted with AFT turned on)

Is there a way I can feed the NTSC signal right from the generator to the scope to use as a control?

Well, that picture seems to correspond somewhat to the waveform you are getting, so I'm guessing you are using the scope correctly.

If the tuning is that far off, the AFT may not be able to correct it at all. What channel is your generator output? Try setting the VCR tuner one channel higher or lower - you may be tuned to the wrong sideband of your generator. When the generator is set to channel 3, for example, it also produces a lower sideband with reversed spectrum on channel 2; when set to channel 4, it produces a lower sideband on channel 3.

You can use the video output of your generator into the video input of your VCR and skip the tuner problems.

Correction to the above: I see the video (camera) input is a large connector, not RCA. I am struggling to recall the correct name for that connector. Anyway, you will need an adapter from that to BNC female, and a male-male BNC cable to connect to the generator.

Someone help with the correct designation for that connector please!

Is there a way I can feed the NTSC signal right from the generator to the scope to use as a control?

If the generator has a composite video output feed that into your scope and take a look at it.

If the generator has a composite video output feed that into your scope and take a look at it.

Okay great, I ordered another BNC adaptor for composite. I'll try that out too.

and Old_tv_nut. I cannot seem to find out what the connector is called. I've seem images of it, but no designation.

EDIT: So I've found out it's called a SO-239. I've ordered a converter piece to F type coaxial so I can run the signal right into it bypassing the VHF UHF

I think it's this vintage microphone connector.

Note the data sheet below is for a female plug that supposedly can be converted to male, but I'm not totally confident it's the right thing, because they don't show the male configuration. You would have to solder this to the end of a coax cable yourself. An alternative would be to replace the obsolete connector on the VCR with a BNC jack.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/2501F?qs=zRnNmUVysJewR0Ju%2FRPvfA%3D%3D&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuZDtBRDvARIsAPXFx3DBwIRbQBu8OEeyMvIb 5Z9g9eTMftpFNHYtRB3QVnRiR6D_utW3tacaAufKEALw_wcB

http://www.switchcraft.com/Specification.aspx?Parent=810

I think it's this vintage microphone connector.

Note the data sheet below is for a female plug that supposedly can be converted to male, but I'm not totally confident it's the right thing, because they don't show the male configuration. You would have to solder this to the end of a coax cable yourself. An alternative would be to replace the obsolete connector on the VCR with a BNC jack.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/2501F?qs=zRnNmUVysJewR0Ju%2FRPvfA%3D%3D&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuZDtBRDvARIsAPXFx3DBwIRbQBu8OEeyMvIb 5Z9g9eTMftpFNHYtRB3QVnRiR6D_utW3tacaAufKEALw_wcB

http://www.switchcraft.com/Specification.aspx?Parent=810

This has got to be it, a "UHF Connector"

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/24/UHF_PL_Connector.jpg/220px-UHF_PL_Connector.jpg

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-47f02/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/2373/5168/xx_97530_IMG__83962_zoom__79263.1472865250.jpg?c=2&imbypass=on

Yes! Also found on old sweep generators.

The SO-259 aka UHF connector is what you want and IS different from a microphone connector.

The UHF connectors were typically found on pro and broadcast video gear into the early VCR era and is also very common on HAM radio and CB gear for the antenna connection.

Mic connectors were found in audio mostly in the 30s-50s, and in test equipment like RF signal generators into the late 60s.

Mic and UHF look similar in pictures but are different sized and not intercompatible... I've got enough gear to need both types of connectors and compare side by side.

Had one of these units long ago.. The video or camera in is the same connector as used on CB radio antenna connectors. and the microphone input uses the same plug as youd see on a guitar or standard microphone..

Stripped mine down when it quit. May stilll have parts lying around, not sure.. :)

SR

Had one of these units long ago.. The video or camera in is the same connector as used on CB radio antenna connectors. and the microphone input uses the same plug as youd see on a guitar or standard microphone..

Stripped mine down when it quit. May stilll have parts lying around, not sure.. :)

SR

Got any pieces you'd be willing to part with? :D

Been a long time since that quasar was here, but if i trip over a part or two, i promise ill give you a shout.. :)

SR

Just a little update, my new 3.57mhz crystal came in, unfortuantely didnt not fix the color issues. however now the scope DOES show the correct NTSC waveform, so i did something right lol.
I think the next step is to check out the components on the color rec/ board.

Another update, i finally got my hands on the frequency counter, and have been testing out the various crystal frequencies. Looks like my problem spot is the 4.27mhz crystal on the color/rec board. its pretty badly out of spec, and no amount of screw adjustment will get it close. But it seems nobody makes that frequency anymore.. so am I out of luck?

Another update, i finally got my hands on the frequency counter, and have been testing out the various crystal frequencies. Looks like my problem spot is the 4.27mhz crystal on the color/rec board. its pretty badly out of spec, and no amount of screw adjustment will get it close. But it seems nobody makes that frequency anymore.. so am I out of luck?

The ham radio community often has need for uncommon or unique crystal frequencies, and there are custom crystal makers that cater to them....they can probably help you.

I see the exact frequency is specified in the setup instructions as 4.267200 MHz. If you do order one, be sure to specify the full accuracy and not just 4.27.

Can you post a clear pic of the schematic of the circuit that uses this? Curious as to what it does with such an oddball frequency.

Also strange that your reading is off by almost exactly 1 Mhz. Can you find the crystal and read what frequency is marked on it?

Actually, it's probably the oscillator that beats the color subcarrier down to a lower frequency (~690 kHz) for recording, but why it is critical in the input monitoring mode beats me, unless this machine operates the full record and playback electronics end to end all the time.

Actually, it's probably the oscillator that beats the color subcarrier down to a lower frequency (~690 kHz) for recording, but why it is critical in the input monitoring mode beats me, unless this machine operates the full record and playback electronics end to end all the time.

At this point I dont know what else could be causing my weird banding on the picture, so far this is the only thing I've measured with the frequency counter that's out of spec. I've even replaced the bad 47uf cap, and the 2SC828 transistor as a precaution, neither which had any effect on the crystal. In fact I went to measure it again just now, and its reading 2.8 mhz!

https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1572559467910.jpg
https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1572552824672.jpg

Again, can you post a clear pic of the schematic of the 4.27 MHz oscillator, and indicate where you are connecting the counter? Putting a 0.001 disc cap in series with the counter lead might be a good thing to make sure you aren't loading the oscillator.

Again, can you post a clear pic of the schematic of the 4.27 MHz oscillator, and indicate where you are connecting the counter? Putting a 0.001 disc cap in series with the counter lead might be a good thing to make sure you aren't loading the oscillator.

I posted the schematic in the last pic but I'll isolate it down. Unfortunately whoever scanned this schematic did so at a terrible resolution, and I haven't been able to find a better one since.

Frequency counter is attached to TP204,the 4.27mhz crystal is X201. The adjustment screw is C219.
http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199645&stc=1&d=1572582787

OK thanks. The counter should not be loading that test point significantly, so it seems the crystal/oscillator really is the problem.

OK thanks. The counter should not be loading that test point significantly, so it seems the crystal/oscillator really is the problem.

Thanks for verifying. I am having a hard time finding a crystal with the correct frequency, unless I want to special order and pay $$$$

My question (in general) is that if this quartz crystal was so important to color syncing in vcrs and tvs, why is it not as common as the 3.57mhz crystal?

I believe different VCR systems used somewhat different color-under frequencies. VHS crystals would be the most common. Also not 100% sure, but likely that different frequencies were needed for PAL and NTSC.

I believe different VCR systems used somewhat different color-under frequencies. VHS crystals would be the most common. Also not 100% sure, but likely that different frequencies were needed for PAL and NTSC.

Thanks TV Nut. The closest crystal i could find is 4.2944mhz. Not great. Do you think the little 30pf cap could tweak it down to 4.2672?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/449-LFXTAL035831BULK

Thanks TV Nut. The closest crystal i could find is 4.2944mhz. Not great. Do you think the little 30pf cap could tweak it down to 4.2672?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/449-LFXTAL035831BULK

NO. A crystal oscillator that could be detuned that far wouldn't really be dominated by the crystal resonance, and might oscillate at an unstable crystal mode as well. An extreme value for detuning might be 1 KHz, and that much would never be designed into an oscillator meant to be a reference, only into a voltage controlled one meant to track a broadcast or tape playback signal.

NO. A crystal oscillator that could be detuned that far wouldn't really be dominated by the crystal resonance, and might oscillate at an unstable crystal mode as well. An extreme value for detuning might be 1 KHz, and that much would never be designed into an oscillator meant to be a reference, only into a voltage controlled one meant to track a broadcast or tape playback signal.

OK thanks for that. I will go back to the hunt. Are you saying ONLY a 4.267200 crystal EXACTLY will work, and nothing out of that range will be acceptable?

... Are you saying ONLY a 4.267200 crystal EXACTLY will work, and nothing out of that range will be acceptable?

Yes. There's a outside possibility that an off-frequency crystal would allow the VCR to record and play back its own tapes , if the under-color frequency is all it affects; BUT even then the VCR would not play or record tapes compatible with VCRs using the standard crystal.

So I have some great news. Firstly it turns out the 4.27mhz crystal WAS OKAY. The counter i was using was giving bad values. So the error was somewhere between the color circuits and the color output.
I hooked up my scope leads 1.) to where the recombined NTSC color was coming out of the color circut and 2.) the INPUT where the signal generator was coming to the unit. Both should be the same waveform and it was..so I started looking at the EV color play board.

Due to some dumb luck I started tweaking one of the screw adjustments (L509) all to the way to max level, and suddenly BOOM, color! Its not perfect, as when I twist L509 to make color on the video tapes, the MONITOR colors are still wrong, but when I twist l509 to make the color bars correct, the tape color goes back to rainbowing. So tonight I have some work to do on the adjustments, but man it feels good seeing color on these tapes (even if they are taped in the 80s from a source with high generation copies)

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199670&stc=1&d=1572880964

I'd like to repeat that it would be good to fix the tracking problem. If it's a tape speed problem, it should not affect the color frequency, but if it's a head speed problem, it could. So, fixing the tracking may solve the difference between tape and monitor (or may not). Now that you know how to adjust 688 kHz color frequency to cater to either playback or monitor mode, you need to find out which is wrong. I would guess that the monitor mode, based on the crystal oscillators, is correct (but I wouldn't say for sure).

The tracking issue may be more of a tape issue than anything. Unfortuantely the only stock of tapes I have to work with were my fathers from the late 70s-mid 80s, which were stored in poor conditions AND in a basement flood. Most of the tapes have little patches of mold across the edges of the spools. I fear the tapes themselves are not much of a better quality. I keep cleaning the tape head every few hours but there isnt a a whole lot I can do.
I will run the adjustments on head speed tonight and go through all the points on the service manual, once I give the video head a good cleaning again.

The tracking issue may be more of a tape issue than anything. Unfortuantely the only stock of tapes I have to work with were my fathers from the late 70s-mid 80s, which were stored in poor conditions AND in a basement flood. Most of the tapes have little patches of mold across the edges of the spools. I fear the tapes themselves are not much of a better quality. I keep cleaning the tape head every few hours but there isnt a a whole lot I can do.
I will run the adjustments on head speed tonight and go through all the points on the service manual, once I give the video head a good cleaning again.

So it seems I have at least one tape that plays well, and quite well. Which again leads me to think the tracking issues are the tape itself, worn and brittle from years of bad storage. However one very interesting observations: every single one of the BLUE (VC100) tapes seems to have degraded much much worse than any of the ORANGE (VC120) tapes. I dont know if it was a different formula or a bad batch or what, but of the 5 blue tapes I have left, they all play poorly.

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199690&d=1572993322 http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199691&stc=1&d=1572993909

I wonder if you could bake the tape the way they do audiotape? Obviously it would have to be transferred off the plastic reels.

Man those photos look great, better than VHS quality, almost similar to Beta even.

Are you going to post your transfers to Archive.org when you are done? I suggest doing that in case there is anything that is under copyright, though commercials seem to be put up on Youtube with no problems.

You probably would have the first Quasar transferred tape on Archive at any rate!

So it seems I have at least one tape that plays well, and quite well. Which again leads me to think the tracking issues are the tape itself, worn and brittle from years of bad storage. However one very interesting observations: every single one of the BLUE (VC100) tapes seems to have degraded much much worse than any of the ORANGE (VC120) tapes. I dont know if it was a different formula or a bad batch or what, but of the 5 blue tapes I have left, they all play poorly.



Beautiful!

Is the oscillator tuned to work in monitor mode when playing these good tapes, or did you still need to tune it differently from monitor mode?

Are you going to post your transfers to Archive.org when you are done? I suggest doing that in case there is anything that is under copyright, though commercials seem to be put up on Youtube with no problems.
You probably would have the first Quasar transferred tape on Archive at any rate!

Wouldn't that be something? I will probably digitize this tape at least (I have one of those USB video capture units). As for the other tapes, there isn't a whole lot worth preserving. My dad recorded a lot of BW movies off TV and some color ones, again the quality is lacking on most of them, and there's no rare or unseen content on these versions as far as I know. It seems these were taped from 1983-1986 range.

Anyone from the Chicago area in the early 80's might know of the ON Network, which is the source of most of these recordings my dad taped. He also has the first TV airing of Empire Strikes Back that ON showed in 1985.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ONTV_(pay_TV)
In 1982, ONTV executives convinced George Lucas to sell the rights for the very first television broadcast of the first Star Wars film to the service. The rights to broadcast Star Wars were obtained by ONTV for a one-time pay-per-view showing in September of that year, available for a one-time fee of $7 to $8[1] (Lucas would do the same favor for the Los Angeles-based Z Channel by granting that service the rights to air The Empire Strikes Back in January 1985).

TV_NUT, the discrepancy between Monitor color sync and playback color sync is still off, and I'm not quite sure why or how that's happening. But honestly, my main goal when setting off to fix this thing was to get the tapes to play back in full color which they do. I don't anticipate recording anything new on these tapes, and I question how good they will look anyways considering the current condition of the magnetic tape.


http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199697&stc=1&d=1573055590
http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199696&stc=1&d=1573055656

Quite an adventure in electronic archaeology!:thmbsp:

Its been a fun journey, if my dad was still around I have tons of question to ask him haha. I think once I get all the affairs in order with this VTR, I'll make a new thread explaining how I fixed it so other people people wont have to dig through 6 pages of fragmented posts to figure it out :)

Is that an early network airing of the film Halloween on one of those tapes?!?!

Is that an early network airing of the film Halloween on one of those tapes?!?!

I believe so yes, taped sometime in the early 80s, possibly from the ON tv channel in Chicago. I havent watched it yet but the first bit of the tape is a bit fuzzy so I really wish there was a good way to clean the tape wihtout having to build some sort of motor spool rig

Well now, here's something odd. I hooked up the Quasar to my usb capture device, one that I've used on dozens of VHS tapes with no issue...and the capture video comes out scrambled. Does anyone know anything if VX tapes had some sort of copy protection?
It plays fine on the TV so tonight I will try using the Monitor and Audio out on the back of my TV into the capture card to see if that bypasses the scrambling.
Discovering something new every step of the way!

https://is2.4chan.org/g/1573137465289.jpg

Usually copy protection outright stops recording on boxes sensitive to it or messes with video level (which I don't see).

Here is what I think is happening: the tape and head speed is below needed to create sync timing at NTSC spec...the TV has flexible enough sync circuits to handle it but the capture device has less flexibility and after trying it's best for the beginning 1/3 of the frame it gives up and looses H sync....ways around this would be to keep fixing the quasar or see if something like an S-VHS deck can record it then play it back in a way the digital capture device can handle.

Usually copy protection outright stops recording on boxes sensitive to it or messes with video level (which I don't see).

Here is what I think is happening: the tape and head speed is below needed to create sync timing at NTSC spec...the TV has flexible enough sync circuits to handle it but the capture device has less flexibility and after trying it's best for the beginning 1/3 of the frame it gives up and looses H sync....ways around this would be to keep fixing the quasar or see if something like an S-VHS deck can record it then play it back in a way the digital capture device can handle.

+1 on the head speed - this would correspond with having to adjust the color oscillator differently for tapes than for monitor mode.

Ah thanks for that insight. Do you suppose this adjustment could be the one that I'll need? I took a look at it a few days ago and ultimately got it to be a pulse on the middle of the trapezoid slope but maybe its just slight out of speed spec. I can fiddle with this one tonight.

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199722&stc=1&d=1573146278

This is an adjustment to make the free-running head speed approximately match video vertical rate when recording.

Speculation:It could be that some component in the servo loop has drifted, so that you are compensating for that when making this adjustment in record mode. Then when you go to play mode, there is no video input and the offset shows up.

In any case, there must be a malfunction causing it to run at a different speed on playback. You could try adjusting it for correct playback speed (as seen via your USB capture) and see what voltage readings you end up with in this record procedure.

Servos are hard to debug because if there's an error in one part of the loop, another part will compensate until it's so bad you exceed the pull-in limits.

Thanks for the help TV_NUT.
You dont have to of course, but here are all the sheets with adjustments on it. If you have a moment to skim through it, perhaps you might see something that could be adjusted instead? I feel like I'm very close to the end but keep getting caught on the little things

https://www.mediafire.com/file/anwi9on7uy75pv2/Adjustment_pages.pdf/file

Unfornuately, when I try to upload the individual sheets they are unreadable becuase videokarma compresses it so much

First thoughts: anything on the FV panel except the top two audio items could be suspect. Anything involving the control pulse or 60 Hz oscillator. I don't know why they have an amplitude check for the "frequency generator" and not a frequency check.

A bit of good news and not so good news. I DID manage to get the monitor colors to sync with the playback colors. so NTSC color bars show properly in monitor mode, and videos play with correct color.
I did recheck the tape speed adjustment and it was exactly where it should be, and yet the capture card still gave me the same issues as before, whether I plugged the VTR right to the card or ran it through the TV and out to the card.
Also TV_NUT, if you notice on all those you mention, there no way to adjust them if they are wrong, it just states "x should be y". I wouldnt know how to correct if I needed to.

Do you get the same skewing if you are in monitor mode and connected to your USB capture device, or only in tape playback?

If I record a moving image in MONITOR mode, it looks fine on my USB device.

I was going through the adjustments again and I noticed
HORIZONTAL OSCILLATION BIAS - SET TO 4V (with MM)
Now for some reason, I'm only getting about 3.5V if I leave the variable resis. at its location when i started working on the unit. even if turn it to MAX level, I only get about 3.75V Perhaps I should look into this?

Lastly, I recorded the NTSC signal onto a blank tape, and played it back, and god it looks awful, for some reason the picture is too low so theres a horizontal bar at the top, and the color drops in and out at random.

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199741&stc=1&d=1573284371
http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199742&stc=1&d=1573284371
http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199743&stc=1&d=1573284371

I also found an interesting pattern on the dull side of some of the tapes.

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199755&stc=1&d=1573324476

Scratching my head. I have no idea what the specs of D355 are supposed to be. You could check resistor values to see if anything is open or far off-value. Haven't figured out what's going on with the oscillator feeding back to TR356 either.

Weak/noisy recording is surely something else entirely. Have you checkjed FM record current (VR301)?

I also found an interesting pattern on the dull side of some of the tapes.

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199755&stc=1&d=1573324476

Probably a manufacturing mark (my guess is it rested on chicken wire or some such material with that pattern)...Magnetic tape was probably made in strips a few feet wide then cut to 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" etc before spooling and packaging (same way they make toilet paper, paper towels, electrical tape, etc)...

Well something happened and now I have a major setback, I dont know what happened, but now when I play tapes, I get very bad flagging and the color drops in and out of sync at random. I can hear the tape head whine go up and down as the picture fuzzes in and out. I'm so upset. The tapes were playing FINE and now they are borderline unplayable..

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199765&stc=1&d=1573406103 http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199766&stc=1&d=1573406103 http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199767&stc=1&d=1573406125 http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199768&stc=1&d=1573406125

Check for something related to the control track - maybe just a head cleaning.

Also may be a good idea not to store tapes close to the TV since most sets have a degaussing coil that runs Evey power up or down of the TV and is capable of harming magnetic media...

Thanks for the heads up about the tapes, they are no longer near the TV.
As for the picture, nothing I've done has made much of a difference. Control track waveform is showing what it should be. schem says 150pp min and its at 200pp with no adjustment for that one.
I'm feeling pretty discouraged, maybe this unit can't be fixed after all. I'll keep trying but, at least I was able to finally see what was on the tapes.

So perhaps in a foolish state, I purchased another VX1000 off ebay to perhaps mix-n-match parts on. I'm determined to get this working haha.
So far this unit only had 3 major flaws, two have been fixed:
Melted Drive Belt - cleaned and swapped with one from my first unit
Cracked circuit boards on the bottom - swapped from my first unit
7V take up motor does not spin - might be a crack somewhere i didnt see or a bad component. This shouldnt be too hard to fix.
Assuming I get that fixed, this second unit seems to be much less used than my first one. Fingers crossed on this

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199949&stc=1&d=1574553713 http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199950&stc=1&d=1574553742

Well, you touched the "tarbaby" - no getting loose now! :nono: :D

Well, you touched the "tarbaby" - no getting loose now! :nono: :D
Very true! Like I said before, I just wanted to digitize these tapes and call it a day, and the fact that I got so close before and messed something up bothered me. If I can digitize these tapes on this unit then my work here is done :D

Finally some more GOOD news after weeks of despair. I was able to get the second unit up and running, and despite a few adjustments needed, the tapes now digitize fine, no horizontal skewing! I uploaded a small clip from the commercials of the Geraldo 1980s Chicago Al Capone Vault airing to youtube.
Sadly even a small video like this had some compression compared to the original file but you still get the idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UXdnss93_Q&feature=youtu.be

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199971&stc=1&d=1574734468
http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199972&stc=1&d=1574734468

Its looking pretty decent. :thmbsp: The true litmus test of working as new is probably to take a good blank tape (or the cartridge of a lousy tape filled with VHS tape stock spooled onto the reels) make a 10-30 min recording and see if it plays back without distortion.

great!

The little tracking hits at the bottom of the playback look like classic edge damage/warping on the tape (VHS world). They seem to be rhythmic as the tape spools out.

I wonder how many people were actually recording on a Quasar VR1000 in 1986 (date of Geraldo Special). It is kind of like how many people are still using the CED format, besides me of course.

I wonder how many people were actually recording on a Quasar VR1000 in 1986 (date of Geraldo Special). It is kind of like how many people are still using the CED format, besides me of course.

I have so many questions I'd ask my late father if I could now. From his reciepts (he kept everything for tax purposes) he purchased at least TWO VHS recorders before 1986. One was a top loading Magnavox from the early 80s, and other was a 1984 Panasonic PV-1430. Yet the dates on some of these recordings are clearly from 1985 and 1986.

I wonder how many people were actually recording on a Quasar VR1000 in 1986 (date of Geraldo Special). It is kind of like how many people are still using the CED format, besides me of course.

Click to visit flickr and click again to play video.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4678/39040376455_c943babd94_w.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22tS8LT)DSCN2988 (https://flic.kr/p/22tS8LT) by Tom Carlson (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137849736@N08/), on Flickr

:D

Now that I've had two units for some time I've been noticing some common trends between the two.
Firstly, The second unit I bought seems to be slightly newer than my first one. Some capacitors at the same ratings are now smaller physically. But it seems any "47uf 16v" cap is suspect for leakage on both units and 99% of the time its just that one type, I don't know why.

Secondly the bottom of the unit is horrible unprotected from damage. Only a thin metal plate separates the bottom three circuit boards from being exposed. Any inpact, or drop (or placing the unit on an uneven surface) will case the frame to push upward and crack the PCBs. This was the case on Unit 2, two PCBs had some major cracks that fortunately were easily repaired.

Thirdly, I'm a little perplexed at the RWD/FF engineering design, perhaps someone here can enlighten me. If you look in the image there are three major parts to RR/FF: The idler wheel, the takeup/supply hub, and a thin plastic column powered by the drive motor. Obviously the idler wheel is rubber but the plastic on the drive column and the supply hubs are SMOOTH PLASTIC. There is VERY LITTLE RESISTANCE needed to make the hubs stop moving, hence the tape not rr or ffd. I dont know if this was done as a safety so the tape doesnt break by having the rrw/ff force the hubs to move at high speed or what, but I feel like there isn't enough grip on the idler wheel to the supply and takeup hubs to allow tapes to move at their proper speed. Last month I cheated by oiling the reels INSIDE each tape so they can roll against each other without friction but that is not a good solution.

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199981&stc=1&d=1575172044

Most VCRs of the 70's and 80's had very slow rewind times (there was a reason beta and VHS rewinding machines were a thing).

There should be some manner of safety clutch in any video tape rewinding mech to make it so that if the tape jams or the end of the tape is not sensed that the tape does not stretch or snap.
Is the idler surface good and soft/sticky or is it hard and glazed? If the latter it should probably be changed or go to an auto parts store and grab a can of CRC belt dressing (also get a can of Goof Off from a hardware store), wipe the rubber with goof off to disolve the outer hard glazed rubber layer, then after dry follow up with the belt dressing, once that has had a few minutes the idler should be sticky again. I use that process regularly for glazed phono idlers and sometimes for VTRs.

It is possible the tapes do need to be lubed...I've taken to adding a bit of white lithium grease to some cassettes where the spools shriek in motion and good mechs struggle to spin them, and some 8-tracks where the spool or idler wheel shrieks or binds...Plastic on plastic friction surfaces are not as long-lived as metal on metal.

I suppose a last-ditch effort might be to lightly scuff the plastic surfaces the idler contacts perpendicular or on angle to rotational direction with fine sandpaper to give it a surface the idler can better grip.

On the first unit I ordered a new idler rubber ring for the spool, so what I will probably do is swap the two idler wheels.
If you look at the image, the one on the bottom has a new rubber tire, the one on the top is the Unit2's idler tire turned inside out. Both seem to have a fair amount of grip but the one on the top is much shinier.

But i agree, worst case, maybe rough up the plastic a bit for better gripping.

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=199985&stc=1&d=1575304243

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UXdnss93_Q&feature=youtu.be

Good audio, but there's still flagging, chroma desync, and tracking lines in the video. Open the drum (no tools needed), and clean + lubricate the shaft & bearing.

Have you tried fast forwarding and rewinding the whole tape before playing?
There's a periodic variation in tension going on that may be reels rubbing at a certain point in rotation, and a good rewind might relieve some of it. Or, a little lube of the reels.

Thanks TV_NUT i've found that rewinding and fast-forwarding the tapes seem to loosen it up. Again the Orange 120 tapes seem to have an easier time while the Blue 100 tapes are more prone to getting stuck and i have to help the tape along during re-winding.

I've been slowly digitizing tapes, to mixed success, but at the moment I have TWO VR1000s if anyone is interested in the other one for parts :tongue:

Thanks TV_NUT i've found that rewinding and fast-forwarding the tapes seem to loosen it up. Again the Orange 120 tapes seem to have an easier time while the Blue 100 tapes are more prone to getting stuck and i have to help the tape along during re-winding.

I've been slowly digitizing tapes, to mixed success, but at the moment I have TWO VR1000s if anyone is interested in the other one for parts :tongue:

If when you complete digitizing your tapes you feel like selling both decks and some tapes I may be interested...A parts deck without a good deck does not make for a good path to having a working unit.

When you digitize the tapes could you post them on Archive.org or Youtube with a private link? I say private link in case there are issues with copyright which can be sticky on even some TV commercials. I've maybe seen 2 things converted from Quasar format on Youtube ever.

I used one of those units back in the day before i got a VHS deck, Only had one tape for it and re used it a bit. Even fudged a camera to it and me and my G/F.... (ahem) well...

Ah, good times in the 80s... :D

SR

When you digitize the tapes could you post them on Archive.org or Youtube with a private link? I say private link in case there are issues with copyright which can be sticky on even some TV commercials. I've maybe seen 2 things converted from Quasar format on Youtube ever.

I can certainly do that, however do not expect miracles, many many of these tapes play with fuzz, horizontal drop outs, and picture issues throughout, largely due to tapes being water damaged, moldy, and improperly stored. So far of the 5 tape (of 25) ive digitized, only one is actually is good condition, the rest are bearable if you're not prone to epilepsy :tongue:

Thought I was able to track the specific date of at least one tape...September 20 1984.. because there is a WGN news broadcast at the end discussing a sucide bombing in Beirut that day.
http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=200180&stc=1&d=1577680645

Nothing really new to update at this point, but I did find an old repair bill when my dad had his VR1000 fixed in the 1983. Does have some interesting things like oem part numbers if anyone every tried to cross-reference. Not a cheap fix though. $233 in 1983 is about $580 now

http://videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=200608&stc=1&d=1586373857